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36小时玩转维也纳

更新时间:2015/2/25 8:45:52 来源:纽约时报中文网 作者:佚名

What to Do in Vienna
36小时玩转维也纳

Not quite a century ago, Vienna was downgraded from being the glorious capital of a sprawling empire to the capital of just one country, Austria. What remains undiminished is the city’s reputation as a capital of high living.

近一百年前,维也纳的地位从昔日辽阔的奥匈帝国的辉煌国都,降格为奥地利一国的首都。不过,这个城市身为奢华之都的声誉却不曾改变。

Virtually any activity you might undertake in the city — strolling through a museum, sipping coffee or shopping for shoes — will leave you feeling pampered and a little envious of the indulgent style to which the Viennese seem so accustomed. This is, after all, the city where chocolate cake and sparkling wine are an appropriate snack at any hour, where the Wiener schnitzel is typically bigger than the plate on which it’s served, and where residents all know how to waltz.

在这座城市里,无论做什么——逛博物馆、喝咖啡或买鞋,你都会感觉自己备受宠爱,看着那些早已习惯如此享受生活的维也纳人,你会油然而生一丝嫉妒。毕竟,在这里,巧克力蛋糕和流动着光芒的美酒是随时可以享用的小吃,维也纳炸小牛排端上来时往往都比盘子还大,人人会跳华尔兹。

But the place once famous as the crossroads of Central Europe is now getting traffic from farther afield, with influences pouring in from Turkey, the Middle East and the rest of Asia.

这个地方曾经是世界闻名的中欧十字路口,而今迎来了更多的客流,来自土耳其、中东和亚洲其他地区的游客纷纷涌入。

This year marks the 150th anniversary of the Ringstrasse, the grand boulevard that encircles the monument-dense First District, where visitors traditionally find most diversions. It’s also a great year to venture into less luxurious but perhaps more lively quarters. Vienna sparkles in any season but has a special appeal in winter when lingering in a cozy cafe or in front of a Klimt portrait of a radiant beauty can feel as luxurious as lying on a Caribbean beach.

今年是环城大道建成150周年,那条恢弘的道路所围绕着的,就是古迹密布的第一区,历来游客最多的区域。而今年,游客非常适合去那些稍欠奢华但更有活力的其他街区。维也纳一年四季都魅力四射,但在冬天格外迷人。流连在温暖的咖啡馆,或者欣赏克里姆特(Klimt)画的美人像,奢侈的感觉简直像躺在加勒比海滩。

Friday

周五

1. ­Meet the Hapsburgs | 4 p.m.

1. 遇见哈布斯堡王朝|下午4点

You can’t see everything in this city full of spectacular museums, but this is not the season to skip the Kunsthistorisches Museum. Having lent Rembrandts and Vermeers and Bruegels to other museums over the years, the Kunsthistorisches has called in favors to mount its first exhibition of works by the 17th-century master Velázquez, court painter to the Spanish king, Philip IV. On view through Feb. 15, the exhibition unites signature works by the artist and highlights the links (some might call it inbreeding) between the Hapsburg rulers in Spain and their Austrian cousins. Tickets, 14 euros, or $16.80 at $1.20 to the euro.

维也纳到处是壮观的博物馆,你不可能逐个看遍,但在这个季节,一定不要错过维也纳艺术史博物馆。在过去的岁月里,该馆已经把伦勃朗(Rembrandt)、维米尔(Vermeers)和勃鲁盖尔(Bruegel)的杰作借给了其他博物馆,但是求援之后,仍然成功举办了该馆首场17世纪艺术大师委拉斯凯兹(Velázquez)画展,该画家是专为西班牙国王腓力四世画像的宫廷画师。展览到2月15日结束,不仅展示大师的代表作,也展现了西班牙哈布斯堡王朝的统治者与他们奥地利表兄弟之间的承袭(有人称之为亲属关系)。门票14欧元;按照1欧元等于1.20美元计算,约合16.80美元。

2. ­Contemporize | 5 p.m.

2. 当代作品|下午5点

Now that you’ve checked in with the old masters, it’s time to see what 21st-century artists are up to in galleries that are clustered along a few streets in the Sixth and Seventh Districts. Get your bearings at Georg Kargl Fine Arts, one of three galleries run by this pioneering dealer on Schleifmühlgasse. The groovy, gridlike facade of Kargl’s Box gallery was created by the artist Richard Artschwager. There are nearly a dozen other galleries within 500 yards of Box, and zigzagging among them is a cultured way to burn calories before dinner.

既然你已经瞻仰了旧时代大师的杰作,那么,该去领略第六和第七区几条街上的画廊里21世纪艺术家的作品了。带着你的艺术理解力走进乔治·卡乔(Georg Kargl)艺术馆,这是先锋艺术商乔治·卡乔在Schleifmühlgasse大街上经营的三家艺术馆之一。卡乔的箱子画廊有时髦的网格正门,由艺术家理查德·阿茨西瓦格(Richard Artschwager)设计。距离箱子画廊500码之内,还有十来个其他画廊,你可以沿着画廊之间蜿蜒而过的文化之路走一走,在正餐之前消耗一些热量。

3. The Viennese Table | 8 p.m.

3. 维也纳人的餐桌|晚上8点

Sample hearty, traditional Central European fare at Gastwirtschaft Steman, a charming and sometimes boisterous wood-paneled dining room where the schnitzel comes out nearly sizzling, and the goulash is available in two enormous sizes. Dinner for two with a bottle of wine, 70 euros.

在Gastwirtschaft Steman餐馆品尝丰盛的传统中欧美食,这家迷人而喧闹的餐厅是木屋风格,炸肉排端上桌的时候还滋滋作响,菜炖牛肉有两种规格,分量都很足。二人餐70欧元,含一瓶酒。

4. Off the Leash | 10 p.m.

4. 胜利逃亡|晚上10点

Constantly evolving Gumpendorferstrasse now combines galleries, restaurants, cafes and fashionable bars like If Dogs Run Free, where artists and hipsters mix and drink for hours at a time. Things get rolling around 10 and stay rolling till 2 a.m. Specialty cocktails, like the Boulevardier (rye, vermouth and Campari) cost 9 euros.

而今,越来越繁荣的Gumpendorferstrasse有画廊、餐厅、咖啡厅和“挣脱束缚的狗”(If Dogs Run Free)等时尚酒吧,艺术家和时尚达人在这里喝酒,一喝就是几个小时。夜场大概10点开始,到了凌晨2点仍然热闹。特色鸡尾酒9欧元,比如花花公子酒(黑麦、苦艾酒和金巴利酒)。

Saturday

周六

5. The New Informality | 10 a.m.

5. 新式休闲|上午10点

In a city where coffee and a glass of tap water can be ceremoniously served by a maître d’ in black tie, it can be refreshing to interact with a cute waiter in a black T-shirt. No one will address you as Herr Doktor at Ulrich, the year-old cafe-bar-restaurant facing the Baroque parish church of St. Ulrich in the Seventh District. Breakfast can include fresh orange or beetroot juice and a whole-grain and herbed-egg breakfast sandwich topped with spinach, melted Gouda, bacon and tomato relish. Top it off with an apple brownie or pear crumble. Breakfast for two, 30 euros. After your meal, drift past the church to Burggasse 24, a chic vintage clothing store where a faux-fur bomber jacket costs 69 euros and a real-deal 1960s astrakhan coat 99 euros.

在这座隆重的城市里,连咖啡和自来水都由打着黑领结的服务生端上来。如果和你互动的是一个身穿黑T恤的可爱服务生,会是多么耳目一新!在休闲风格的乌尔里奇(Ulrich)酒吧,没人会叫你先生。这家咖啡馆、酒吧兼餐馆有一年历史,对面是第七区巴洛克时代的圣乌尔里奇教区教堂。早餐包括新鲜橙子或甜菜根汁、含全麦面包片和茶叶蛋的早餐三明治,上面是菠菜、融化的高德芝士、培根和西红柿小菜。搭配一只苹果布朗尼蛋糕或者梨酥一起吃下。二人早餐30欧元。饭后闲逛,途经教堂,走到博格街24号(Burggasse 24),这是一座时尚的经典服装店,人造皮草短夹克售价69欧元,60年代的羊羔皮外套99欧元,物美价廉。

6. ­Sweet Style | 11:30 a.m.

6. 甜蜜风|上午11:30

Steps away is Neubaugasse, a bustling commercial thoroughfare with a great high-low mix of retailers and restaurants. Bootik 54 at No. 54 is a huge vintage clothing store of the packed-rack and slightly aromatic variety, with an entire section devoted to lederhosen (from 40 euros), and dirndls (50 euros) for your next biergarten outing. Jugendstilgalerie Neubau at No. 40 also celebrates Austrian tradition with a two-floor display of sinuous Art Nouveau furniture, porcelain and silver, including a straight-backed Hoffmann settee (4,500 euros). At No. 26 is Wald & Wiese, a honey emporium where everything, including wine, cosmetics and gummy bears (70 grams for 2.50 euros), is made of honey.

几步之外就是Neubaugasse,一条红红火火的商业街,有各种层次的店铺和餐馆。位于54号的Bootik 54是一家大型古典服装店,内有略带香气的各种衣物饰品,皮短裤(价格40欧元)和紧身连衣裙(50欧元)都有专门的区域出售,可为你下次的啤酒花园之行做好准备。40号的Jugendstilgalerie Neubau店也是奥地利传统主题,在两层的空间里,陈列着精美的新艺术家具、陶瓷和银器,包括一把霍夫曼直背长椅(4500欧元)。26号的瓦尔德和威斯店(Wald & Wiese)是一家蜂蜜商场,里面的每一件东西包括红酒、化妆品和小熊糖(70克2.50欧元)都是蜂蜜制造的。

7. ­Imperial Luxury | 12:30 p.m.

7. 皇家的奢华|中午12:30

A visit to the imperial furniture storerooms, known as Hofmobiliendepot Möbel Museum Wien provides a fascinating glimpse of both imperial Hapsburg luxury and the Archdukes’ overarching sense of frugality in palace decoration on a need-to-use basis. For centuries, furniture was shuttled between the royal “seats of pleasure,” so most palaces sat empty when not in use. Before the imperial family’s arrival at Schönbrunn palace for a few weeks each summer, as ­many as 1,000 rooms would be furnished and decorated with the inventory in these storerooms. A video in the galleries highlights the furnishings’ star turn when many of the pieces were used on the set of the 1950s “Sissi” films starring Romy Schneider about 19th-century Empress Elisabeth, wife of Franz Josef I.

维也纳帝国家具收藏馆(Hofmobiliendepot Möbel Museum Wien)是奥匈帝国的皇家家具库房,在这里浏览迷人的景象,可以感受哈布斯堡王朝的奢华风范,领略大公宫廷装饰中无所不在的简约感。几百年来,皇家随着“舒适席位”的变化轮换使用这些家具,所以,大部分宫殿在不用的时候都是空的。每年夏天,皇室成员都去美泉宫度避暑数个星期,工作人员就会提前将家具从库房里搬出,把宫里的1000多个房间装饰起来。艺术馆里一个视频展示了皇室家具中的明星。20世纪50年代拍摄电影《茜茜公主》时,用到了这里的很多家具。罗密·施耐德(Romy Schneider)在片中扮演19世纪的奥地利皇后伊丽莎白(Empress Elisabeth),也就是弗兰茨·约瑟夫一世(Franz Josef I)的妻子。

8. ­Hot Buns, Holistic Beauty | 2 p.m.

8. 热面包与整体之美|下午2点

For a cosseting Asian lunch at Mama Liu and Sons, start with steamed crab and shrimp shumai and a hot sake or Musashino premium beer. Daily specials include a soup bowl, dense with meat and veggies, as well as an even heartier shabu-shabu. Lunch for two with drinks is about 50 euros. Just opposite are two outposts of the Saint Charles beauty and wellness chain. Apotheke sells custom beauty and bath products, and the new Complementary offers massages and private fitness sessions.

在刘妈妈与儿子们(Mama Liu and Sons)餐厅,享用一顿亚洲午餐来宠爱自己吧,有蒸螃蟹、虾仁烧麦、热清酒或武藏野优质啤酒。每天的特餐包括一碗汤,含很多肉和蔬菜,还有更丰盛的日式涮涮锅。二人午餐含饮料约50欧元。对面是圣查尔斯美容和养生俱乐部的两个分店。药妆房出售私人定制的美容与洗浴产品,新开业的互补店(Complementary)提供按摩和私人健身课。

9. ­Back to School | 4 p.m.

9. 回到校园时代|下午4点

In an impressive display of municipal dispatch, Vienna’s University of Economics and Business has just built a campus next to the Prater in the Second District. The campus is a veritable museum of cutting-edge architecture, with buildings by Zaha Hadid, Atelier Hitoshi Abe, London’s CRAB studio, and Madrid’s NO.MAD Arquitectos. Two-hour tours are offered by the Architecture Center Vienna or you can stroll through the campus on your own.

在一次醒目的市政规划中,维也纳经济贸易大学(University of Economics and Business)在第二区的普拉特公园旁边建起一座新校区。这片校园堪称前卫建筑博物馆,建筑均由扎哈·哈迪德(Zaha Hadid)、阿部仁史(Atelier Hitoshi Abe)、伦敦的CRAB工作室和马德里的NO.MAD Arquitectos事务所设计。维也纳建筑中心提供两个小时的游览,或者,你可以选择在校园自由漫步。

10. ­When You Feel Down | 5:30 p.m.

10. 心情郁闷时|下午5:30

Head to Song for fashion. Song is a serenely stylish boutique curated by the South Korean émigré Song Myung-il, who has created a tranquil universe in Vienna purveying fashion for body and home. Among the cult Austrian, Belgian, Dutch and French brands, one finds fetching accessories by Bradaric Ohmae that mix buttery leathers with woven-cane details created in collaboration with the historic Viennese furniture maker Thonet.

去“宋”寻找时尚。“宋”是一家宁静而时尚的精品店,由韩国移民宋明日(Song Myung-il,音译)创建。他打造了一个寂静的宇宙,为维也纳人提供时尚的身体和室内装潢。这里有奥地利、比利时、荷兰和法国的许多小众品牌,你可以发现Bradaric Ohmae品牌的饰品,它搭配了软皮和藤编的细节,是与历史悠久的维也纳家具制造商Thonet联袂创造的佳品。

11. ­Cathedral View | 8 p.m.

11. 大教堂风光|晚上8点

Vienna has piles of luxury hotels that draw well-heeled tourists, business titans and heads of state. But guests and residents alike have always tended to shun hotel restaurants en masse. That changed in 2012 with the arrival of the Sofitel Stephansdom, a Second District property designed by the French architect Jean Nouvel and located nowhere near the city’s beloved St. Stephen’s cathedral, from which it takes its name. But the hotel’s spectacular restaurant and lounge on its top floor — known as Le Loft and featuring a vibrant video projection on the ceiling by the artist Pipilotti Rist — offers inspiring views of St. Stephen’s spire. Add a seasonal menu by the globe-trotting French chef Hervé Pronzato and Le Loft has quickly become a favored destination of the city’s stylish set. Tasting menus begin at 78 euros a person.

维也纳有许多豪华酒店吸引着高端游客、商业大亨和国家元首,但大部分游客和市民总会避开这些酒店餐厅。2012年,随着索菲特酒店的进驻,这一情况有所改变。第二区内这家产业由法国建筑师让·努维尔(Jean Nouvel)设计,得名于该市深受喜爱的圣斯蒂芬大教堂,尽管距离上很远。该酒店有一家华丽的顶层餐厅和休闲厅,名叫Le Loft餐厅,由艺术家皮皮洛蒂·瑞斯特(Pipilotti Rist)设计,最大特点是天花板上充满活力的视频投影。在餐厅,你能俯瞰激动人心的城市美景,望见圣斯蒂芬教堂的尖塔。再加上往来于全球的法国大厨埃尔维·普朗扎特(Hervé Pronzato)亲手制作时令菜肴,Le Loft餐厅很快成为该市时尚圈的宠儿。来这里品尝菜肴,每人价格为78欧元起。

Sunday

周日

12. Push and Glide | 9 a.m.

12. 推一推,滑一滑|上午9点

Be the first out on the ice at Vienna Ice World, the giant municipal skating rink (actually a series of rinks and serpentine paths totaling more than 1.7 acres of ice) set up each year on the Rathausplatz in front of Vienna’s glorious City Hall on the Ringstrasse. Stalls along the rinks’ periphery sell hot chocolate and mulled punch. Reservations are required; tickets (6.50 euros) can be booked at www­.wienereistraum­.com.

做维也纳冰上世界第一个来客吧,这家大型的市内溜冰场(实质上含好几座溜冰场和蛇形冰道,总冰面超过1.7英亩)每年都在维也纳环城大道上辉煌的市政厅对面的市政广场上营业。溜冰场弧形的场外小道旁都是卖热巧克力和加香热酒的小摊贩。必须有预约才能入场。门票6.50欧元(可在www.wienereistraum.com上订票)。

13. Chocolate Revenge | 11 a.m.

13. 巧克力的复仇|上午11点

Refuel at Demel, among the ­city’s most storied cafes and pastry shops, which sells edible souvenirs on Sunday when most of the city’s other such shops are closed. For 22.50 euros a person, the Big Demel Breakfast includes eggs, ham and other cured meats, croissants and breads along with coffee, tea or hot chocolate, orange juice and sparkling wine.

在戴默咖啡馆(Demal)吃点东西补充体力吧。它是这座城市里故事最多的咖啡馆兼蛋糕房,每逢周日,蛋糕房大都歇业的时候,它还出售可食用的纪念品。每人22.50欧元,大戴默早餐含鸡蛋、火腿和其他咸肉、牛角面包和面包片,还有咖啡、茶或者热巧克力、橙汁和光芒闪烁的红酒。

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