您现在的位置: 纽约时报中英文网 >> 纽约时报中英文版 >> 旅游 >> 正文

里斯本36小时

更新时间:2015-4-23 10:04:43 来源:纽约时报中文网 作者:佚名

What to Do in Lisbon
里斯本36小时

Everything old is new again in the Portuguese capital. Throughout the hilly metropolis on the Tagus River, fading structures and spaces are being stylishly reborn. Once-forlorn neighborhood markets have undergone ambitious renovations and currently form the city’s newest hot spots for dining and drinking. Formerly decrepit townhouses now harbor Lisbon’s chicest indie shopping centers, and the once-dodgy docklands boom with emergent night life in multiple guises. Even the city’s dowdy, underused central square and adjacent waterfront have been spruced up for lounging and strolling. At the same time, the city’s classic historical charms, from art museums to industrialists’ mansions, remain beautifully intact, complementing their rejuvenated neighbors.

在葡萄牙首都里斯本,一切旧事物都在焕发新生。里斯本坐落在塔古斯河畔,山坡起伏,城里各处的衰败建筑正接受有格调的改造。几经废弃的街区集市经过大规模翻新,成为里斯本最新的餐饮热门地点。一度衰败的城市宅邸如今是市内最时髦的独立购物中心,破落的港口区随着各种新兴夜生活而一派繁荣。甚至连邋遢闲置的中心广场及附近河滨也被修饰一新,供游人闲逛。与此同时,从艺术博物馆到工业家故居,该市的经典历史景点仍保存完好,漂亮迷人,与焕发新生的邻居们交相辉映。

Park, which overlooks Lisbon's hills.
俯瞰小山的公园。

1. Sights and Suds | 4 p.m.

1. 风景和泡沫 | 下午4点

For years, the monumental 18th-century square called Praça do Comércio was surrounded by dull government offices and blighted by construction sites for sewage and transportation projects. In the last few years, however, the square’s icons — an ornate triumphal arch and a statue of King Dom José I — have been refurbished, and a host of new cafes, bars and boutiques has moved in. The outdoor terrace of the Museu da Cerveja, a beer museum (forgettable) and bar (worthwhile), has lovely views along with beers from Portugal, Brazil, Mozambique and other Lusophone lands. The dry and yeasty Templarium (5 euros, or about $5.32 at $1.06 to the euro) offers a window into another compelling development: an evolving trend of Portuguese microbrews.

商业广场(Praça do Comércio)历史悠久,始建于18世纪。多年来,它被乏味的政府机关包围,多次成为下水道和交通工程的施工场地,因此变得满目疮痍。不过,在过去几年里,这个广场的标志性建筑——华丽的凯旋门以及国王多姆·何塞一世(King Dom José I)的雕像——被翻修一新,引得一大堆新咖啡馆、酒吧和精品店入驻。啤酒博物馆(Museu da Cerveja)的博物馆性质经常被人忘记,它的酒吧倒是值得一去。它的室外露台风景很好。啤酒来自葡萄牙、巴西和莫桑比克等葡语国家。发酵型干啤Templarium(5欧元,以1欧元兑换1.06美元计算,约合5.32美元)能让你了解另一项引人注目的发展:葡萄牙微酿啤酒的新潮流。

2. Riverside Renaissance | 5 p.m.

2. 河滨复兴 | 下午5点

Seedy, stinky and garbage-strewn, the neighboring waterfront strip languished for years. Thanks to a recent municipal cleanup, the seaside is now frequented by joggers, strollers, cyclists and picnickers who take advantage of the new tree-lined path, gently graded stone steps and kiosklike cafes along the riverbank. Art-world denizens might recognize the colorful ship called Trafaria Praia. Covered in traditional blue and white tiles and filled with twinkling installations evoking the sea, the ferry was conceived by the artist Joana Vasconcelos and formed the Portuguese pavilion at the Venice Biennale in 2013. At 11 a.m., 3 p.m. and 6 p.m. from March through October, the boat offers a one-hour scenic ride.

多年来,这处离商业广场不远的河滨狭长地带肮脏恶臭,垃圾遍地,破败不堪。多亏最近市政府的清理,现在很多人经常到海滨慢跑、散步、骑自行车或野餐,享受新修的林荫道、坡度很缓的石阶以及河畔的亭子式咖啡馆。艺术界人士也许能认出那艘名为Trafaria Praia的彩船。船顶铺着传统的蓝白瓦片,里面满是象征大海的闪亮装置作品。这艘渡船由艺术家若阿娜·瓦斯康塞罗斯(Joana Vasconcelos)构思,是2013年威尼斯双年展上的葡萄牙馆。从3月到10月,每天的上午11点、下午3点和下午6点,这艘船提供时长一小时的风景游览。

3. Food Court | 8 p.m.

3. 美食街 | 晚上8点

Is there one place in Lisbon where you can dine on raw veal, tinned octopus meat, shaved ham, stewed clams, mango ice cream and cherry-flavored ginja liqueur? Why, Mercado da Ribeira, com certeza. Half of the 19th-century structure — still home to myriad produce stalls — was taken over in 2014 by Time Out magazine and elevated into a hangarlike, neo-industrial food court where top Lisbon chefs, favorite restaurants, upscale food shops and multiple bars ply their goods. O Prego da Peixaria serves succulent warm beef sandwiches on soft Madeira flatbread like the Betinho (8 euros) — slathered in melted cheese, barbecue sauce and cured ham — while Tartar-ia transforms uncooked meats and fish into sculptural and sublimely seasoned creations. The tuna tartar (12.50 euros) comes with ginger, creamy avocado, radish and black sesame seeds.

里斯本有没有什么地方,能让你同时吃上生小牛肉、罐装章鱼肉、火腿切片、炖蛤蜊、芒果冰激凌和樱桃味烈酒?当然有,那就是里贝拉市场(Mercado da Ribeira)。这座19世纪的建筑里仍有数不清的农产品摊位。2014年,该市场的一半被《Time Out》杂志接管,升级成一个飞机库样的新工业主义美食街,里斯本的顶级大厨、热门餐馆、高档食品店和各种酒吧在这里不断供应美食。O Prego da Peixaria餐馆供应温暖多汁的牛肉三明治(8欧元)——松软的马德拉扁面包里塞满融化的奶酪、烤肉酱和腌制火腿。Tartar-ia餐馆则把生肉和生鱼做得好像精心调味的雕塑。鞑靼金枪鱼(12.50欧元)里有姜、奶油鳄梨、小萝卜和黑芝麻籽。

4. Louche Lounge | 10 p.m.

4. 堕落的酒吧 | 晚上10点

A tidal wave of new bars continues to wash through the waterfront streets of the Cais do Sodré district. The naughtiest nights unfold at Pensão Amor, which suggests the tufted salon of a debauched baron. Nude portraits, Orientalist paintings, mounted stag heads, leopard-print banquettes, Kama Sutra manuals and even a tarot reader pack the rooms, while the extensive menu of classic cocktails animates the evening with concoctions like the Corpse Reviver #2 (gin, Cointreau, Ricard, Lillet Blanc and lemon juice; 12.50 euros).

Cais do Sodré区的滨海街道又开了一大波新酒吧。Pensão Amor酒吧的夜晚最为放荡,就像堕落大亨举办的热闹沙龙。酒吧里满是裸体肖像、东方主义油画、挂起来的雄鹿头,豹纹卡座、《爱经》(Kama Sutra)手册,甚至还有一位塔罗牌算命师。菜单上数不清的经典鸡尾酒让夜晚充满活力,比如“僵尸复活2号”(Corpse Reviver #2,里面有姜、橘味白酒、里卡尔茴香酒[Ricard]、利莱白葡萄酒[Lillet Blanc]和柠檬汁;12.50欧元)。

5. Arts and Craftsmanship | 11 a.m.

5. 艺术品和手工艺品 | 上午11点

Some of the best things in life are not free. Qing dynasty Chinese porcelain vases. Paintings by Pieter Bruegel the Younger. Marble water basins from Versailles. Luckily for Lisbon visitors, the late businessman António de Medeiros e Almeida had deep pockets and a thirst for exquisitely wrought items, resulting in a late 19th-century mansion overflowing with decorative arts. As you stride over the marble floors of Casa-Museu Medeiros e Almeida, you can appraise yourself in gilded mirrors by Thomas Chippendale, walk past 19th-century carpets woven in the Silk Road city of Samarkand, worship at a carved altar from a church in Goa and admire an intricately decorated sky-blue porcelain bidet.

生命中最美好的一些东西不是免费的。比如,中国清代瓷花瓶;小彼得·勃鲁盖尔(Pieter Bruegel the Younger)的油画;凡尔赛大理石水盆。对里斯本的游客来说,幸运的是,已故商人安东尼奥·德·梅代罗斯·伊·阿尔梅达(António de Medeiros e Almeida)财力雄厚,非常喜欢精致物品,所以他19世纪末的宅邸充满装饰艺术品。在梅代罗斯·伊·阿尔梅达宅邸暨博物馆(Casa-Museu Medeiros e Almeida)里,你可以在托马斯·奇彭代尔(Thomas Chippendale)制作的镀金镜子前打量自己,在来自丝绸之路名城撒马尔罕的19世纪地毯上漫步,在来自印度果阿教堂精工雕刻的圣坛边祈祷,还可以欣赏一个装潢精美的天蓝色瓷质坐浴盆。

6. Surf and Turf | 2 p.m.

6. 海鲜和肉类 | 下午2点

Pig is big at Charcutaria Lisboa, where aged, air-cured hocks of acorn-fed porco preto (15 euros per 100 grams) are finely sliced into fatty red ribbons. It’s just one of the many boutiques and food stands — from sushi stalls to juice bars — in the recently revamped Mercado de Campo de Ourique, a soaring 1930s market. Shrimp is big at Mercado do Marisco, whether boiled with sea salt (9 euros) or pan-fried in garlic and butter sauce, while Atalho do Mercado adds turf to the surf in the form of lamb chops (10.50 euros), smoky-succulent picanha beef sandwiches (5.70 euros) and other meaty treats.

里斯本熟食店(Charcutaria Lisboa)的猪很大,这里的黑猪是用橡果饲养的,猪腿肉经风干处理后切成肥腻的红肉丝(100克15欧元)。该店位于宏大的欧里克市场(Mercado de Campo de Ourique),该市场始建于20世纪30年代,最近刚翻修,里面有很多精品店和食品摊,从寿司摊到果汁吧应有尽有。海鲜市场(Mercado do Marisco)的虾很大,用海盐煮(9欧元)或者用大蒜黄油沙司煎都可以。快捷市场(Atalho do Mercado)除了海鲜还有牛羊肉,比如羊排(10.50欧元)和烟熏多汁牛里脊三明治(5.70欧元)。

7. A 21st-Century Souk | 4 p.m.

7. 21世纪的露天市场 | 下午4点

Resplendent with horseshoe arches, geometric mosaic floors, Arabesque swirls of chiseled plaster and other Moorish flourishes, the disused 19th-century mansion across from Praça do Principe Real was reborn in 2013 as a neo-sultanic “Conceptual Shopping Gallery” called Embaixada. The stately rooms are occupied by local Portuguese boutiques and brands such as Urze, which sells elegant Portuguese wool goods, and Temporary Brand, a concept store stocking everything from canned sardines to silver hightops by iShoes.

王子广场(Praça do Principe Real)对面的一座废弃的19世纪宅邸有着华丽的马蹄形拱门、几何图案镶嵌地板和蔓藤花纹雕刻石膏等摩尔式装饰。2013年,这里被改造成新苏丹式“概念购物画廊”,名叫“大使馆”(Embaixada)。这里宏伟的房间被葡萄牙当地服装精品店和品牌占据,比如Urze和Temporary Brand,前者出售高雅的葡萄牙毛制品,后者是个包罗万象的概念店,出售罐装沙丁鱼和iShoes银色高帮运动鞋等各种物品。

8. Drop In on the Neighbors | 5:30 p.m.

8. 顺道拜访邻居 | 下午5点半

Almost next door, Entre Tanto is another historical townhouse that has been similarly upgraded into a stylish haven for local indie shops and designers. Within the rambling warren of rooms you’ll find Fresh, a brand of handbags that mix clear acrylic surfaces with traditional textiles, as well as Nichts Neues, an emporium of retro cinema seats, industrial lamps, midcentury modern Scandinavian furniture and other vintage treasures. To help you clean up after your ramblings, Patine stocks soaps, lotions, shower gels and more from Portus Cale, a venerable manufacturer based in Porto.

几乎就在旁边,还有另一座历史悠久的城市宅邸,名叫Entre Tanto。它也被升级改造成当地独立店铺和设计师的时尚聚集地。众多房间中可以找到Fresh,这个手提包品牌把闪亮的丙烯酸表面和传统的织物结合在一起。还有Nichts Neues,这个店铺里有复古电影院座椅、工业灯具,以及20世纪中期斯堪的纳维亚现代家具等复古珍品。为了帮你在闲逛之后梳洗,Patine店铺供应来自波尔图著名制造商Portus Cale的肥皂、洗液和沐浴露等洗浴用品。

9. Comfort Food, Lisbon-Style | 8 p.m.

9. 里斯本式治愈系食物 | 晚上8点

Situated near St. Christopher (São Cristóvão) church, the new Leopold restaurant exudes humility and grace. White walls and wooden tables lend a restrained air to the tiny, hushed space, while the tile floor and glass cabinets honor its past life as a bakery. In the same manner, the precisely made comfort food shows respectful devotion to old-time Portuguese recipes (soft-boiled egg with mushroom, Azores steak) while sometimes favoring modern interpretations. Alheira sausage, for instance, is a lush pork-veal blend whose savory smoothness plays off sweet tapioca spheres simmered in Port wine. The cod is equally worthy, thanks to a crunchy-sweet texture from cornbread crumbs and a Far East dose of umami using shiitake mushrooms. The banana cream dessert is served with shavings of pungent Queijo São Jorge. Dinner for two, without drinks, costs about 60 euros.

圣克里斯托弗教堂(São Cristóvão)附近的新莱奥波德餐馆(Leopold)散发出质朴和优雅的气息。白墙和木桌给这个小巧安静的地方营造出含蓄的氛围,而瓷砖地板和玻璃橱柜则是向它曾经的面包房身份致敬。同样地,这里精心制作的治愈系食物流露出对传统葡萄牙食谱的尊敬和热爱,比如煮得半熟的鸡蛋搭配蘑菇和亚速尔牛排。它有时又倾心于现代诠释。比如阿列拉香肠(Alheira sausage),它是把浓郁、可口、柔滑的猪肉和小牛肉混合物装入甜木薯粉外囊,在波特红酒(Port)里慢炖而成。鳕鱼也同样值得品尝,它的脆甜质地来自玉米面包屑和远东香菇的鲜味。香蕉奶油甜点和气味浓烈的圣若热干酪屑一起上桌。两人晚餐,不含酒水,约需60欧元。

10. Cars and Bars | 11 p.m.

10. 汽车和酒吧 | 晚上11点

Directions to Park aren’t promising: Walk into a downbeat concrete parking garage, take the graffiti-stained elevator to the top floor, and trudge up the ramp to the roof. But the payoff is a surprising oasis of trees, bushes and exotic flora with lovely views over Lisbon’s hills. Within this well-planted former parking lot, an international crowd in eclectic footwear — boots to Birkenstocks, high heels to hightops — sips caipirinhas (6.50 euros) and rosé wine from the Alentejo region (3.50 euros) from the dual bars.

《公园指南》(Directions to Park)说得不太明确:你得走进一个破败的水泥停车场,搭乘那个满是涂鸦的电梯到顶层,费力爬过一段斜坡到达屋顶。不过你会得到惊喜的回报:你眼前会出现一大片绿树、灌木和奇花异草,还能俯瞰里斯本连绵起伏的小山美景。这里曾是停车场,如今植物繁茂。来自世界各地的游客穿着各式鞋子——靴子、勃肯鞋、高跟鞋或高帮运动鞋——喝着酒吧里的盖比丽娜鸡尾酒(6.50欧元)和阿连特茹省玫瑰葡萄酒(3.50欧元)。

11. The Head Masters | 11 a.m.

11. 人像大师 | 上午11点

Sundays are sleepy in Lisbon — unless you discover Room 61 of the Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga, a repository of excellent European painting. That particular gallery shakes the soul. “Salome,” by Lucas Cranach the Elder, is an early 16th-century depiction of that celebrated seductress holding the grisly severed head of John the Baptist. Nearby, another disembodied head — a human skull — sits on the desk of a sunken-eyed, long-bearded St. Jerome in Albrecht Dürer’s 1521 painting named for the saint. But the most unnerving image by far is Hieronymus Bosch’s “Triptych of the Temptations of Saint Anthony Abbot, the Betrayal of Christ and the Way to Calvary” (1500), which unleashes a feverish nightmare of monsters and debauched humans in a fiery apocalypse. The garden cafe, which serves up cappuccino (1.70 euros) and river views, is your recovery room — and final glimpse of the ever-evolving city.

里斯本的星期天慵懒安静,国家古代艺术博物馆(Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga)的61展厅是个例外。该博物馆是欧洲绘画宝库,而61号展厅能震撼你的灵魂。老卢卡斯·克拉纳赫(Lucas Cranach the Elder)的《莎乐美》(Salome)创作于16世纪初,描绘的是那个著名的魅惑女子捧着施洗约翰(John the Baptist)恐怖的断头。附近的另一个断头是圣·热罗姆(St. Jerome)书桌上的骷髅头。它来自阿尔布雷希特·丢勒(Albrecht Dürer)1521年创作的油画《圣·热罗姆》,画中的主人公眼窝深陷、胡子很长。不过,最令人不安的图像当属耶罗尼米斯·波希(Hieronymus Bosch)的《圣·安东尼·阿博特的诱惑三联画:耶稣遭背叛前往骷髅地》(Triptych of the Temptations of Saint Anthony Abbot, the Betrayal of Christ and the Way to Calvary,1500年),它描绘的是烈火末日里的魔鬼和堕落人类,犹如疯狂的噩梦。去那里的花园咖啡馆平静一下吧。它供应卡布奇诺(1.70欧元)。你可以在这里欣赏河景,最后看一眼这座不断变化的城市。

After the success of the Independente Hostel & Suites — a stylish boutique hostel and hip bar — the same group has transformed the neighboring townhouse into the Independente Suites & Terrace (Rua de Sao Pedro de Alcantara 81; 351-21-130 2634; theindependente.pt). The 18 suites are decorated with vintage finds, while the rooftop restaurant offers unusual, inventive neo-Portuguese and global cuisine. Suites from 70 euros.

独立旅舍和套房(Independente Hostel & Suites)是一个时尚精品旅舍和时尚酒吧。它大获成功后,该集团把附近的一座城市宅邸改造成了独立套房和露台酒店(Independente Suites & Terrace,阿尔坎塔拉圣佩德罗路81号;351-21-130 2634; theindependente.pt)。那里的18个套房装饰着很多复古物件,屋顶餐厅供应不同寻常的创意新葡式菜肴和异国菜肴。套房起价70欧元。

Billing itself as the first boutique hotel in the historical Alfama neighborhood, the 42-room Memmo Alfama (Travessa das Merceeiras 27; 351-21-049-5660; memmoalfama.com) has a rooftop mosaic infinity pool and wine bar that both feature views over the neighborhood and the Tagus River beyond. Doubles from 122.50 euros.

Memmo Alfama酒店(Travessa das Merceeiras 27号;351-21-049-5660;memmoalfama.com)自称是历史悠久的阿尔法马区的第一家精品酒店,这里的42个房间有屋顶镶嵌无边泳池和红酒酒吧,在泳池和酒吧都可以俯瞰附近的美景和远处的塔古斯河。双人间起价122.50欧元。

“全文请访问纽约时报中文网,本文发表于纽约时报中文网(http://cn.nytimes.com),版权归纽约时报公司所有。任何单位及个人未经许可,不得擅自转载或翻译。订阅纽约时报中文网新闻电邮:http://nytcn.me/subscription/”

相关文章列表