您现在的位置: 纽约时报中英文网 >> 纽约时报中英文版 >> 旅游 >> 正文

加州海岸的不插电之旅

更新时间:2015/6/7 8:59:58 来源:纽约时报中文网 作者:佚名

Unplugged Along the California Coast
加州海岸的不插电之旅

It was a vacation I had been dreaming about for years: the classic California road trip up the historic State Route 1 with my husband and our 5-year-old daughter, Frankie, and 3-year-old son, Finn. It was a trip that was meant to show them the sheer magnitude of Big Sur, the jagged artistry of the coastline, the endless blue of the Pacific, the raw, wild beauty of God’s country. It was a trip that they would remember for the rest of their lives!

这是一次我已经梦想了多年的假期:与丈夫还有我们五岁的女儿弗兰基(Frankie)、三岁的儿子芬恩(Finn)一起,沿着历史悠久的一号州道(State Route 1),完成一趟经典的加州公路之旅。这趟旅程是为了让他们一睹大苏尔(Big Sur)的陡峭风采,海岸线的曲折蜿蜒,太平洋一望无垠的湛蓝,神之国度那原始广袤的美。这趟旅程会让他们铭记终生!

But there was a hitch: We were going tech-free — no iPads, no movies, not so much as a singing Elsa watch (excluding parental phones). How long until someone whined? How long until my will shriveled up and I handed the trip over to Disney Junior and “Jake and the Never Land Pirates”? My children had registered their complaints — loudly. But my husband, Devin, and I would not be moved. We didn’t need two-dimensional images to be happy. We could talk. We could play games. This trip would be about Douglas firs and deep thoughts if it killed us.

而在当时很关键的一点:我们在这趟旅途中没有携带任何科技产品――没有iPad,没有影片,甚至连能唱歌的艾尔莎手表都没有(只有我跟丈夫的手机在)。不知过上多久就会听到有人抱怨?不知我的热情过上多久就会熄灭,然后将这趟旅程拱手交给迪斯尼儿童频道和《杰克与梦幻岛海盗》(Jake and the Never Land Pirates)?孩子们已经表达过了他们的不满――十分大声地表示。但是我和丈夫德温(Devin)不会为之所动。我们不需要靠二维的图像来取悦自己。我们可以聊天。我们可以玩游戏。就算这趟旅程把我们都打倒了,元凶也只会是花旗杉和深刻的思考。

A view of State Route 1, which hugs much of the coast of California.
一号州道的风景,这条州道环抱着大部分的加州海岸。

It would be an abridged version of the iconic California coastal drive. We were going from Southern California to Northern, from Santa Barbara to Capitola, a beach town just outside of Santa Cruz, to visit my friend Laura and her family.

这将是一次标志性加州海岸自驾行的精简版。我们自南向北横跨加州,从圣巴巴拉(Santa Barbara)开到卡平特里亚(Capitola),也就是圣克鲁兹(Santa Cruz)外侧的那座海边小镇,好去拜访我的朋友劳拉(Laura)一家。

The route was simple: Take the 101 north to San Luis Obispo, turn left toward the water, and follow the Pacific Ocean to Capitola via State Route 1. (In Southern California, it’s known as the Pacific Coast Highway; in the central coast, it’s the Big Sur Coast Highway — even the name sounds like a vacation.) It should have taken five or six hours. I say again: It should have.

路线十分简单:先走101号国道,向北一直开到圣路易斯奥比斯波(San Luis Obispo),左转朝向大海的方向,然后沿着太平洋海岸,走1号州道抵达卡平特里亚。(在加州南部,这条州道被叫作太平洋海岸公路(Pacific Coast Highway);在中部海岸,这条州道被叫作大苏尔海岸公路(Big Sur Coast Highway)――这名字听起来就像要去度假),走完全程按说要五六个小时。我再强调一遍:是“按说”。

The car was packed with popcorn, bunny crackers, sandwiches, water and half the produce section of Whole Foods. We were apparently of the opinion that there was no food north of San Luis Obispo. We may have been tech-free, but we weren’t foolish.

我们的车里准备了爆米花、兔子饼干、三明治、水,还有全食超市(Whole Foods)里半数的农产品。我们似乎觉得圣路易斯奥比斯波北部不会有什么能吃的东西。我们此行或许是零科技,但我们绝不是零智商。

A day earlier, on the advice of a friend, we went to the Ohana Fun Company toy store in Carpinteria, just south of Santa Barbara. The parts of our Chevy Equinox that were not stuffed with grocery bags were filled with coloring pads, sticker books, metallic colored pencils, Lego sets, games and enough Melissa & Doug paraphernalia to open our own franchise. We were a family of Jack Kerouacs with glitter stencils.

出发的前一天,在朋友的建议下,我们去了一趟卡平特里亚的“奥哈纳娱乐公司”(Ohana Fun Company)玩具店,就在圣巴巴拉的南边。我们的雪佛兰春分(Chevy Equinox)中没有塞满食品杂物袋的地方,放满了趣味画板、贴纸书、金属色彩色铅笔、乐高积木组、游戏,还有足够我们自己开家专卖店的玛丽莎(Melissa & Doug paraphernalia)幼教玩具。我们是带着闪光板的杰克·凯鲁亚克(Jack Kerouacs)一家。

We drove rather unceremoniously to the 101. After all the hype, my children were understandably underwhelmed by the 101. It’s a highway, after all, and despite being lined with palm trees, not an especially beautiful one. But as we made our way north, the horizon grew wider, vaster, farther away. We passed rolling green fields and, once firmly inside the wine country of Santa Ynez and Los Olivos, the fields turned to geometric plots of grape vines.

我们相当随意地开到了101国道上。听过我们所有的天花乱坠后,孩子们依然对101国道毫无兴趣,对此我们倒也能理解。说到底,这只是条公路,虽然路边栽满了棕榈树,但也不是风景特别漂亮的那种。不过随着我们一路向北,地平线开始变得越来越开阔,越来越广袤,也越来越遥远。我们驶过碧浪翻滚的绿色农田,而在完全进入酒乡圣伊内斯(Santa Ynez)和洛斯奥利沃斯(Los Olivos)后,农田又化为了一片又一片呈几何形状分布的葡萄藤。

My daughter, her wide blue eyes as round as quarters, was captivated by the view: Verdant, peaceful and fairly monotonous, it was a perfect, if challenging, place to play I Spy. My son was uncharacteristically quiet. His cheeks were flushed and I could see in his glassy eyes that he had a fever before I even touched his forehead.

女儿睁着硬币一样又圆又大的蓝色眼睛,完全被车窗外的风景掳获了:青葱、祥和又相当地单调,如果有足够挑战性的话,这里堪称“我是小间谍”(I Spy)游戏的理想地点。儿子则异常地安静。他的脸蛋红扑扑的,我还没触到他的额头,就能从他呆滞的眼神中看出,他发烧了。

We had just passed San Luis Obispo when I broke the tech-free rule. I took out my phone to look up the nearest Urgent Care center. Turns out that the Morro Bay Urgent Care facility is a great place to learn you have strep throat, especially if you’re 3. The nurse loves children, the doctor goes by John, and there’s ample room to drive your Lego truck while you wait for the results of your throat culture.

我打破了零科技的规则,就在我们刚刚驶过了圣路易斯奥比斯波的时候。我拿出了我的手机,开始查找离我们最近的急救中心。摩洛湾(Morro Bay)的急救机构倒真是个发现自己得了脓毒性咽喉炎的好地方,特别是你只有三岁的情况下。护士很爱护小孩,医生的名字叫约翰(John),还有宽敞的房间给你边跑乐高卡车边等带咽喉检查结果出来。

We were supposed to be halfway to Big Sur by now, but before we could glimpse so much as one majestic vista, we had to wait for the nurse to mix Finn’s antibiotics. Half an hour later, amoxicillin administered, we were off. Again.

按照原定计划,我们此时应该在前往大苏尔的途中,但在我们有机会一窥这番壮观景色之前,得先等护士把芬恩的抗生素配出来。半个小时后,芬恩服下了阿莫西林,我们再一次出发上路。

It was nearly lunchtime when we arrived at Montaña de Oro State Park, just south of Morro Bay. We decided to backtrack a few minutes to see what my friend Laura had told me was “the best secret park in California.”

当我们抵达在摩洛湾南边的蒙大拿德罗奥州立公园(Montaña de Oro State Park)时,已经将近午餐时间。我们决定原路返回几分钟,去看看我的朋友劳拉跟我说过的“加州最棒的秘密公园”。

We drove through the late morning fog as the park unfolded before us like the opening sequence of a suspense thriller. The ground was covered in dusty purple heather; shaggy, peeling eucalyptus trees swayed in the breeze; and the dark gray Pacific revealed itself to us slowly and deliberately, a sleeping giant, heaving long waves on the shore.

我们穿过上午的晨雾,公园开始在我们的眼前逐渐展现,就像一部渐入佳境的悬疑恐怖片。地面布满了病恹恹的欧石楠;树冠蓬松、树皮剥落的桉树在清风中来回晃动;深灰色的太平洋缓慢而从容地向我们显露出自己的身姿,这名沉睡中的巨人,在海岸上推出了长长的波浪。

We opened the windows, and whether it was the sweet, damp air that filled the car, or the antibiotics already at work (not likely), Finn was smiling and laughing for the first time that day. There were a lot of “yeas!” as soon as I told them it was picnic-at-the-beach time.

我们打开车窗,也不知是因为车内充满了带着甜味的潮湿空气,还是抗生素开始生效了(不太可能),芬恩在这一天第一次露出了盈盈笑意,甚至开怀大笑。当我告诉他,我们要开始海滩野餐的时候,他一个劲儿地连呼“万岁!”

My family ran full speed to the beach. Is there a better antidote to sweaty car feet than cool, damp sand? The sky was heavy and gray, the beach was wide and empty, and as the waves crashed on the smooth brown sand, Frankie spotted a single cold, brave surfer, our only company that day.

我们一家用尽全速冲向了海滩。还有什么比凉爽潮湿的沙子,更能解除汽车汗脚的疲乏呢?灰色的天空阴沉沉的,海滩空旷无人,海浪不断冲刷着细滑的棕色沙粒,弗兰基发现了唯一一名冷淡但勇敢的冲浪者,那是那天我们全家仅有的伙伴。

The children hunted for seashells, yelled into the wind, gathered sand for a doomed castle and finally, having given all their energy to the beach, agreed to sit down long enough to eat a peanut butter and jelly sandwich at a picnic table I had found.

孩子们到处寻找贝壳,朝着风中大叫,拢了一堆沙子堆出一座注定要粉身碎骨的城堡,在把他们所有的精力都交给了海滩之后,终于同意在我找到的一张野餐桌旁坐下来,用足够的时间吃掉一块花生酱加果酱三明治。

We reluctantly piled back into the car. Finn, his dirty blond curls curlier than ever after the beach, asked if we were going to see any animals, so I told him there would be elephant seals.

我们百般不情愿地回到了车上。芬恩在海滩上玩过后,脏兮兮的淡金色卷发比以往卷曲得更加厉害,他问我们会不会看到任何动物,于是我告诉他说,我们会看到象海豹。

“What do they do?”

“它们都做些什么?”

“They lie on the beach.”

“它们躺在海滩上。”

“No thanks, Mom.”

“那不用了,谢谢,妈妈。”

I decided I’d resell them on the elephant seals in 100 miles. In the meantime, we drove past a massive rock sitting out in Morro Bay like an ancient geological lump, an inert volcano rising out of the earth. The children loved how spooky it looked as the last of the morning’s fog lifted around it, giving the craggy monster a menacing feeling.

我决定再开上100英里后,再向他们推销一次象海豹。与此同时,我们开车经过了一块巨大的岩石,这是一座拱出地面的休眠火山,像一处古老的地质地块,静坐在摩洛湾中。孩子们爱极了它在最后一阵晨雾包裹下那番毛骨悚然的样子,这为这只身姿陡峭的怪物平添了几分险恶的感觉。

We were six hours into the journey, and I noticed that without the vexing question of Dora or Thomas on the iPad, the kids were more relaxed, which meant we were more relaxed. A happy peacefulness settled over the back seat. They were calm, sweet and behaving exactly how I want them to behave anytime we’re with people who don’t like kids.

我们的旅程至此已经进行了六个小时,我注意到,没有了iPad上的朵拉(Dora)和汤玛斯(Thomas)的烦人问题,孩子们反而变得更加放松,这意味着我和丈夫两人也更加放松。后座的空间里,洋溢着一片愉快的祥和气氛。他们冷静又贴心,举止表现完全符合我们每次和不喜欢孩子的人共处时我对他们的期望。

So much of having little children is just keeping them safe and alive. I don’t actually sit down and talk to them as much as I’d like or as much as I should.

养育小孩子的工作中,有很多就只是为了保证他们的安全与健康。而我坐下来跟他们沟通的时间,其实并没有我希望或我应该做到的那么多。

“What do you guys think of California?”

“你们觉得加州怎么样?”

“Mommy, may I please have some popcorn?” This was Frankie.

“妈咪,我可以吃爆米花吗?”这是弗兰基问的。

“MOMMY, IF FRANKIE IS GETTING POPCORN I WANT MORE POPCORN THAN FRANKIE!” And this was Finn.

“妈咪,如果弗兰基可以吃爆米花,那我就要比弗兰基更多的爆米花!”这是芬恩。

I gave up on a bonding moment and passed the popcorn.

我放弃了跟他们的亲子交流,直接将爆米花递了过去。

There was a mood shift somewhere on the stretch from Cambria to the elephant seals, which is only a 15-minute drive. But that was enough to let boredom slip in.

从堪布里亚前往观看象海豹的路上,我们经历了一场心情上的转换,全程不过短短15分钟,却也足够让无聊趁虚而入。

“Finn, do you want me to tell you the whole movie of ‘Frozen’? O.K., I will,” said my daughter, not waiting for a reply. Then the unimaginable: She began to recite the movie, plot point by excruciating plot point. I was ready to burst into tears myself — but then, look at that! We’d arrived!

“芬恩,你想让我给你讲讲《冰雪奇缘》(Frozen)的所有剧情吗?好,那我就讲啦。”女儿不等芬恩有所回应,便自己做了决定。接下来发生的事情简直不可想像:她开始复述这部电影动画中的台词,每一个情节点都没有放过。我差一点就要泪流满面了――可就在那时,看啊!我们到了!

There it was: the Piedras Blancas elephant seal rookery, playground of seals, whales, dolphins, otters and other sea creatures. This was the pièce de résistance of our trip! Nature at its finest! So, of course, Frankie wanted to stay in the car. I almost relented. Until Devin reminded me: This trip wasn’t just iPad free; it was also about making our city kids appreciate the natural world. Or at least see it.

就是这里――象海豹滩,海豹、鲸鱼、海豚、水獭及其他海洋生物的乐园。这才是我们此次旅行的重头戏!最精彩的自然景观!于是,弗兰基自然是想要留在车里。我差点就要心软答应了。直到德温提醒我:这趟旅行可不仅仅是甩开iPad这么简单,也是为了让这两个在城市里长大的孩子欣赏大自然的世界。至少也得看看吧。

Out of the car she climbed, a grumpy, haughty teenager in the body of a 5-year-old. But her bad mood was short lived.

她不情不愿地从车上蹭了下来,这具五岁的身体里,装的则是一名脾气暴躁、自视甚高的少女。不过她的坏心情,很快就无影无踪了。

We didn’t know if we were going to see any seals. We were filled with the traveler’s dread of not seeing the nature we had invested in. Please let there be a seal of some kind. Or a cool bird. Even a sea gull would be O.K.!

我们并不知道我们是否真的能看到象海豹。我们内心充满了旅行者惯有的恐惧,担心自己看不到一直寄予深厚期望的自然风光。拜托那里会出现一只海豹吧,随便什么种类的都行。或者一只帅气的鸟儿也行。哪怕只有一只海鸥也行啊!

But then: Look at that thing! A giant brown earthworm wiggling in the sand. We saw one! We made a memory!

然而接下来:看哪看哪!一条好大的褐色蚯蚓正在沙滩上扭动。我们看见动物了!我们留下回忆了!

That was when we saw the beach move. The entire beach. Holy cow, there were a zillion sea lions and elephant seals right there. They were all tossing sand on their mountainous torsos and long, squishy trunks.

就在此时,我们看到海滩动了起来。一整片海滩都在动。我的天,那里简直有数不尽的海狮和象海豹。它们纷纷抖落着身上和长鼻上的沙粒,庞大的躯干有如一座座小山,长长的鼻子看上去湿漉漉的。

A few lumbered forward, wriggling their bodies into the surf. Some just lay there, brown and gray flesh heaving on the sand; others occasionally barked at no one in particular. It was like watching an army of prehistoric creatures taking refuge on a beachhead. The children, laughing and pointing, could have stayed for hours. But Big Sur was waiting.

它们蠕动着身体,笨拙地向前移动着,融入到浪花之中。有的只是躺在那里,任凭自己或褐色或灰色的身躯在沙滩上来回扭动;有的则不时冲着某个随意的方向吠叫。整个场面就像是在观赏一支由史前生物组成的军队争相在滩头堡上避难。孩子们大笑着指指点点,大有可在那里呆上好几个小时的势头。不过大苏尔还在等着我们呢。

The drive north was filled with beautiful calm. The mountains were our only witnesses, rising out of the earth like soft green dinosaurs. The trees swayed with every light breeze off the ocean. And I realized: When you’re surrounded by a storybook landscape, a road trip doesn’t feel like one. This was a private tour of the gardens of the gods.

继续向北的自驾途中,车内充满了一种美妙的沉静。山群作为我们唯一的见证人,有如柔绿色的恐龙一般拔地而起。路上的树丛随着海上刮来的每一阵轻风微微摆动。这让我意识到:当你置身于童话一般的风景中时,单纯的公路旅行在感觉上已经变成了另外一种体验。这是一趟游览神之花园的自助之旅。

And soon we were rounding white-knuckle bends on a mountainside, climbing higher into the sky until the view of the Pacific was something I had only ever seen from a plane. I looked at my children — sound asleep. I was tempted to wake them, to show them what a postcard looks like in real life. But they needed sleep.

很快,我们就在山坡上令人精神紧张的曲折小径上绕来绕去,朝着天际的方向不断爬升,直到我眼前的太平洋展现出我只有在飞机上看到过的景观。我看着孩子们――他们听起来似乎睡着了。我忍不住想要唤醒他们,让他们看看明信片上的风景在现实世界中的模样。但是他们此刻确实需要睡眠。

And there is something inherently unsatisfying about a small child’s reaction to a place like Big Sur. They just haven’t been alive long enough to know what a rare beauty it is. They missed it all.

而在我的内心深处,对于小孩子看到大苏尔这种地方的反应,多少仍有几分不满。他们终归还是太过年幼,尚不懂得这是多么难得的美景。他们完全错过了这一切。

Half an hour later they woke up, just as we were whizzing past strawberry and artichoke fields. Quietly and happily, as well-rested children will, they started playing Guess the Character, which is basically 20 Questions but the answer is always Darth Vader. And then, Frankie:

半个小时后,就在我们快速驶过草莓田和洋蓟田的时候,他们醒了过来。不知不觉中,就像任何一个获得了足够休息的孩子那样,他们开始愉快地玩起了“猜角色”(Guess the Character)的游戏,这个游戏基本上就是二十问(20 Questions)的翻版,只不过答案永远都是《星际大战》里的黑武士(Darth Vader)。然后,弗兰基问了一句:

“Mommy, are we there yet?”

“妈咪,我们到了吗?”

Nine hours and 250 miles after we started, I looked out at Capitola, a cheery beach town populated in candy-colored houses. There were a dozen surfers on the waves, the sun dipping low behind them, as Devin steered the car into the driveway of the blue Victorian house. Laura and her dog came bounding toward us.

在我们上路九个小时,驾车行进了250英里之后,此刻的我正望着车窗外的堪布里亚,这座生机勃勃的海边小镇里,随处可见糖果色的房屋。海面上有十余名冲浪者隐没于海浪之间,太阳在他们身后低垂下沉。德温将车驶入那座蓝色维多利亚式房屋的私家车道上。劳拉和她的爱犬朝着我们奔了过来。

“Yes, sweetheart, we are.”

“是的,宝贝,我们到了。”

IF YOU GO

旅行建议

What to See

景点推荐

If you are driving up State Route 1, ignore all the well-meaning folks who tell you to tour Hearst Castle. The best things to do on this trip have less to do with great wealth and everything to do with Mother Nature.

如果你一路沿着1号州道开下去,别听那些建议你去赫氏古堡(Hearst Castle)的好心人说的话。这趟旅途中最该做的事情,跟富丽堂皇没太大关系,大自然才是你绝对不能错过的。

Morro Rock is worth a slight detour if only to imagine what the world looked like 21 million years ago (the rock is estimated to be that old). It’s 576 feet tall, and the only prehistoric volcano of the “Nine Sisters” that sits out in the water. They don’t call it the Gibraltar of the Pacific for nothing. morrobay.com­/rock.htm.

光是为了感受一下我们的世界在2100万年前是什么样子,摩洛岩(Morro Rock)还是值得你稍微绕个道去看看的(专家估计这块岩石的年代就有这么久)。这块岩石高576英尺,也是史前火山“九姊妹”(Nine Sisters)中矗立于水中的唯一一座。“太平洋上的直布罗陀”(Gibraltar of the Pacific)之名可不是白叫的。morrobay.com­/rock.htm.

A visit to the Piedras Blancas Rookery is like watching a National Geographic video in the flesh — in the big, fat, blubbery, elephant seal flesh. If you’re lucky, you may also glimpse an orca, a humpback whale or a bottlenose dolphin. elephantseal.org.

象海豹滩(Piedras Blancas Rookery)之行就像是观看一部现实版的国家地理录像,这里聚集着体型庞大肥肥胖胖的象海豹们。如果你足够幸运,你可能还会瞥见逆戟鲸、座头鲸、或者宽吻海豚的身影。elephantseal.org.

Where to Eat

餐饮推荐

The colorful cushions of Nepenthe Restaurant only add to its charm. Order something off the upscale-diner menu — a vegetarian burger, a side of fries and a cold beer (and a mac and cheese with carrot sticks for the kids) — then sit back and take in a view that will leave you speechless. nepenthebigsur­.com.

奈裴斯餐馆(Nepenthe Restaurant)里那些五颜六色的靠垫,让这家餐厅徒增了几分魅力。点几样高档餐厅菜单以外的菜品――一块素食汉堡、一份薯条小食和一杯冰啤酒(还有一份芝士通心粉加胡萝卜条的儿童餐),然后坐下来,观赏窗外那令你噤声的风景。nepenthebigsur­.com.

Where to Stay

住宿推荐

Lucia Lodge is possibly the most beautiful, perfect place in the world — unless you’re a sleepwalker. The 1950s-style cabins are perched right on the side of the mountain with nothing between you and the great Pacific but a few sea gulls and a picket fence. Rates start at $180 for a double. lucialodge­.com.

露西亚客栈(Lucia Lodge)可能是世界上最美最无可挑剔的地方――除非你是个梦游者。这座20世纪50年代风格的木屋建筑就坐落在大山一旁,在你与太平洋之间,除了几只海鸥和一道尖桩栅栏之外,再无其他遮挡。双人间价格自180美元起。lucialodge­.com.

“全文请访问纽约时报中文网,本文发表于纽约时报中文网(http://cn.nytimes.com),版权归纽约时报公司所有。任何单位及个人未经许可,不得擅自转载或翻译。订阅纽约时报中文网新闻电邮:http://nytcn.me/subscription/”

相关文章列表