For Cruise Visitors, an On-Shore Taste of Alaska’s Bounty
Nearly one million cruise passengers annually visit Juneau, Alaska’s rugged state capital, from May through September, often swarming the town of nearly 33,000 residents on day trips and shore excursions. Its main attractions include the nearby Mendenhall Glacier, where the visitors’ center offers boardwalk trails that overlook bear-viewing areas, and small boat trips to watch orca and humpback whales.
If, post-tour, most of those visitors ate their meals back on their ships, they could hardly be blamed for shunning popcorn and fudge. Until recently, Juneau didn’t have much to offer the discerning diner. But what a local chef, Tracy LaBarge, started nine years ago with a small shack behind the public library devoted to king crab has snowballed with new restaurant openings, a weekly food truck event and fresh enthusiasm for locally sourced fare.
“We were having dinner parties at our house because you couldn’t get a variety of food out,” said Kelly Moore, known as Midgi, who is a Juneau food blogger and columnist, observing the culinary boom of the last two years. “Now you can get it without having to do the dishes. Within a two-block area, wherever you look there’s something incredible to eat, from a food truck to fine dining.”
In 2006, Ms. LaBarge opened Tracy’s King Crab Shack (kingcrabshack.com), a modest stand with an honest approach, including making the cooks, and especially the proprietor herself, visible at the stove. The meaty red king crab legs were fun to wrestle, but locals in particular queued up for her cream-based crab bisque, making Ms. LaBarge a culinary star. Last summer, she doubled the restaurant’s size and moved to South Franklin Street, a main-drag location opposite a cruise dock.
2006年，拉巴奇开设了特蕾西帝王蟹小饭馆(Tracy’s King Crab Shack, kingcrabshack.com)，这个朴素的饭馆以诚待客，顾客们能看到灶台边的厨师们，特别是店主本人。这里多肉的红色帝王蟹腿剥起来很有趣，不过当地人更喜欢排队购买奶油蟹肉浓汤，拉巴奇因此成了烹饪明星。去年夏天，她把餐馆搬到了主干道南富兰克林街，对面有个邮轮码头，店面扩大了一倍。
In addition, she opened two more restaurants last year, the upscale Salt (saltalaska.com) and the Indian restaurant Saffron (saffronalaska.com). The former serves creative food with an Alaskan accent, like hamachi crudo with pickled onion or crab carbonara. The latter, specializing in Indian comfort food, is more unexpected in the cold climate. On a rainy August afternoon last year, I lingered over creamy lentils and tangy yogurt-based salads, next to an Indian family of eight who had left their cruise ship in search of more exotic fare and found it in the cooking of Sharmila Shaligram, a native of Pune, India, whom Ms. LaBarge persuaded to move to Juneau for the opening.
另外，去年她还开了两家新餐馆——高档餐厅“盐”(Salt, saltalaska.com)和印度餐馆“藏红花”(Saffron, saffronalaska.com)。盐餐厅供应阿拉斯加风味创意菜，例如生狮鱼腌洋葱或蟹肉奶酪烤意面。藏红花餐馆专做印度式的温馨食物，在阿拉斯加寒冷的气候里更是出人意料。去年8月一个下雨的下午，我在藏红花餐馆慢慢享用奶油扁豆和味道浓郁的酸奶沙拉，旁边是一家八口印度人，他们离开邮轮，寻找更具异域风情的食物，结果却在沙米拉·萨利格拉姆(Sharmila Shaligram)制作的食物中如愿以偿。萨利格拉姆是印度浦那人，这家餐馆开业时，拉巴奇劝他搬来朱诺。
“I wanted to do what we didn’t have in town,” Ms. LaBarge said of her diverse collection of restaurants, which farther out of town includes the sports bar McGivney’s, (mcgivneys.com) serving the crab bisque as well as chicken wings and poutine, the Canadian fast-food dish.
Ms. LaBarge and company have been joined by other daring chefs who are delving deeply into the Alaskan larder. Leading the way is Beau Schooler, who was a 2015 semifinalist for Rising Star Chef of the Year awarded by the James Beard Foundation. At the Rookery Cafe (therookerycafe.com), a coffee shop by day centered by a long wooden communal table, his dinners, which change frequently, draw on local ingredients (I had seared halibut with locally grown zucchini, cherries, feta cheese and mint), and crowds hit capacity well before 6 p.m.
除了拉巴奇，该市还有其他一些大胆的大厨，他们深入研究阿拉斯加美食。其中的领导者是博·斯库勒(Beau Schooler)。2015年，他曾入围詹姆斯·比尔德基金会(James Beard Foundation)举办的年度新秀大厨(Rising Star Chef of the Year)半决赛。他是鲁克里咖啡馆(Rookery Cafe, therookerycafe.com)的大厨。这家咖啡馆白天营业，餐馆正中是一张公用木长桌。这里的翻桌率很高，顾客们被当地食材（我点的是煎大比目鱼搭配当地出产的西葫芦、樱桃、菲达奶酪和薄荷）所吸引，还不到下午6点这里就客满了。
One block away, Mr. Schooler and the Rookery owner Travis Smith opened Panhandle Provisions (squareup.com/market/panhandle-provisions) last summer, offering house-cured charcuterie such as Alaskan pork salami with red wine, and grab-and-go fare like bison sandwiches with buffalo milk blue cheese, as well as foods imported from Spain to Brooklyn, like the preserved veggies from Brooklyn Brine Company.
去年夏天，斯库勒和鲁克里咖啡馆的店主特拉维斯·史密斯(Travis Smith)在一个街区外合开了平锅柄食品店(Panhandle Provisions, squareup.com/market/panhandle-provisions)，这里供应自制熟食（例如阿拉斯加蒜味猪肉腊肠配红酒）、外卖食物（例如野牛肉三明治配蓝纹水牛奶酪），以及从西班牙、布鲁克林等地进口的食物（例如布鲁克林布林恩公司[Brooklyn Brine Company]的腌制素菜）。
This month, Ms. Moore, the food writer, introduced Juneau Food Tours (juneaufoodtours.com), a two-and-a-half--hour walking tour around the capital with sampling stops at Panhandle Provisions, Alaskan Gourmet Foods, which specializes in regional products like game sausage and smoked salmon, and Silver Bow Bakery, famous for bread made with a sourdough starter, said to improve with age, that is more than a century old. The tour concludes with an Alaskan Brewing Company tasting at the historic Alaskan Bar.
本月，美食作家摩尔推出了朱诺美食之旅(Juneau Food Tours, juneaufoodtours.com)。在两个半小时的步行之旅中，你会在这个首府的几家食品店停留品尝——平锅柄食品店、阿拉斯加美食店（Alaskan Gourmet Foods，这里专供当地食品，例如野味香肠和熏三文鱼）和银色蝴蝶结面包店（Silver Bow Bakery，这里以用酵母面团做成的面包闻名，据说这种面团时间越久味道越好，目前历史已有一个多世纪之久）。美食之旅的终点是著名的阿拉斯加酒吧(Alaskan Bar)，你在那里可以品尝阿拉斯加啤酒公司(Alaskan Brewing Company)的啤酒。
Wedged between the narrow Gastineau Channel and Mount Roberts, downtown Juneau’s compact layout makes progressive feasts possible on foot, including hitting Food Truck Fridays weekly at the Juneau Arts and Culture Center (jahc.org), featuring music and mobile food stands alongside the permanently stationed burger specialist Pucker Wilson’s (puckerwilsons.com),
朱诺市中心夹在狭窄的加斯蒂诺海峡(Gastineau Channel)和罗伯茨山(Mount Roberts)之间，布局紧凑，步行就能到达前卫的美食集会，包括每周在朱诺艺术文化中心(Juneau Arts and Culture Center, jahc.org)举办的餐车星期五集会(Food Truck Fridays)，那里有音乐、流动食品摊以及每次都会亮相的专家级普克·威尔森汉堡摊(Pucker Wilson’s, puckerwilsons.com)。
According to local chefs, what Juneau (and Alaska in general) has over other food-focused destinations is the versatile bounty of the productive Pacific Ocean.
“We have so much seafood in Alaska to choose from, and it’s very accommodating to cook,” Ms. LaBarge said. “You can do halibut a thousand ways. It’s a chef-friendly food.”