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36小时玩转成都

更新时间:2015/7/5 9:49:23 来源:纽约时报中文网 作者:佚名

36 Hours in Chengdu, China
36小时玩转成都

Chengdu might look like a typically gray Chinese metropolis of skyscrapers and chaotic traffic, but beneath the concrete exterior is one of China’s most inviting, charming cities. Life moves just a little more slowly here. The teahouses fill up quickly on weekends with locals practicing calligraphy and cracking sunflower seeds, and at the Chengdu panda research center, the city’s most famous residents seem content lazing about in trees most of the time. Recently, though, this unpretentious city has seen its economy boom as one of China’s new high-tech hubs, luring young entrepreneurs to found creative start-ups and innovative architects to transform the skyline. There’s definitely a buzz about the place, though it’s hard to notice over the clacking of tiles during a rousing game of mah-jongg in the park.

第一眼看过去,成都可能像是一座典型的中国大都市,灰扑扑的,高楼林立,交通混乱。但在钢筋水泥铸成的外表之下,隐藏着中国最迷人的城市之一。这里的生活节奏相对慢一些。周末,茶馆里很快就会坐满练书法、嗑瓜子的本地人。在成都大熊猫繁育研究基地里,是这个城市最著名的居民——大熊猫们,他们似乎大部分时间都懒散地呆在树林间。但在最近一段时间,这个低调的城市作为中国新的高科技中心迎来了繁荣的经济发展,吸引着年轻企业家和富有创意的建筑师来此建立创新企业、改造城市面貌。这里的确有一种有趣的氛围,只不过在公园里噼啪作响、令人兴奋的麻将声中,不太容易察觉到而已。

Friday

周五

1. Poetic Inspiration | 3 p.m.

1. 诗情画意 | 下午3点

Slip into the laid-back Chengdu lifestyle at Wangjiang Pavilion Park, a quiet green space dedicated to a famous poetess from the Tang dynasty, Xue Tao. Xue loved bamboo — and it’s everywhere, some with stalks as wide as small trees towering 50 feet overhead. Wander through the graceful, century-old pagodas and pavilions — some of the oldest architecture left in Chengdu — and then settle in at the atmospheric teahouse next to the river where locals while away the hours sipping green tea (20 renminbi per glass, or $3.40, at 6 renminbi to the dollar), chatting and playing cards. For the brave-hearted, a gentle ear scrub is also on offer from the roving ear cleaners clanging their metal instruments as they stroll by.

在望江楼公园享受成都的慵懒生活。为纪念唐代女诗人薛涛而建立的望江楼,是个满目绿意的小公园。因为薛涛爱竹,园内随处可见,有些竹子高高耸立,足有50英尺(约合15米),竹干粗如小树。你可以在有几百年历史的优雅古塔和亭台(成都留存下来的最古老的一些建筑)间漫步,然后在这家气氛独特的滨河茶馆坐下来,可以看到当地人一边喝着20人民币一杯的绿茶,一边聊天、打牌,消磨时光。园内还有“舒耳郎”四处走动,他们身上携带的金属工具会跟着叮当作响,勇敢一些的游客可以尝试一下他们动作轻柔的“舒耳”服务。

2. Artistic Revival | 6 p.m.

2. 艺术复兴 | 下午6点

A historic district restored by the government several years ago, the Wide and Narrow Alleys offer a glimpse of the city’s long-forgotten imperial-era architecture combined with the commercial excess of modern-day China. While most of the overpriced silver and trinket shops can be bypassed, Fingertip Art (24 Kuan Xiangzi) is worth a stop for its brightly embroidered bags, shawls and pillows, all made by women from the Qiang minority, whose villages were devastated in the 7.9-magnitude earthquake that struck Sichuan Province in 2008. The company has trained hundreds of women how to improve their traditional embroidery to appeal to well-heeled tourists and returns a share of the profits to their slowly rebuilding communities.

宽巷子和窄巷子是政府在几年前重新修复的历史街区。在这里,你可以看到这个城市埋没已久的古代建筑和现代中国的商业活动相得益彰。尽管大多数标价过高的银器店和饰品店你都可以绕道而过,但“一针一线”(宽巷子24号)值得驻足,这里有羌族妇女制作的刺绣包、披巾和枕头。她们的村子在2008年四川发生的7.9级地震中被摧毁。该公司培训了数百名那里的羌族妇女,改进她们的传统刺绣艺术,吸引高端游客,之后将部分销售利润返还到那些正在缓慢重建的社区。

3. Haute (Not Hot) Cuisine | 8 p.m.

3. 高端(不辣的)料理 | 晚上8点

Sichuan food may be known for its heat, but the cuisine is actually more complex than that. At Yu Zhi Lan, a tiny restaurant with three private rooms run by the affable chef Lan Guijun, every course in the kaiseki-like meal presents a unique balance of flavors, from the spicy-sour sea cucumber to the delicate sweetness of the bird’s nest with snow pears, peach tree sap and a bit of sugar candy. Lan’s goal is to elevate Sichuan cooking by combining a Japanese-style precision with fresh, locally sourced ingredients: He makes noodles with duck eggs from a free-range farm, for example, and slices them thread-thin by hand with a giant cleaver. Even the pottery used to serve each course was handmade by the chef. The set menu for two, with 10 cold appetizers and nine mains, starts at 600 renminbi per person.

四川饮食以辣著称,但这里的烹调却不止于此。和蔼可亲的大厨兰桂均经营的玉芝兰是一家只有三个包间的小餐馆。这里的每一道颇具怀石料理风格的菜肴都有一种独特的均衡口感,不管是“家常海参”的酸辣,还是“雪梨桃油”(燕窝、雪梨、桃油和一点冰糖炖成的甜品)微妙的甜味。兰桂均以日式料理的精细方式处理本地获取的新鲜食材,想要以此提升川菜烹饪的品质。比如,他从自自由放养的农场买来鸭蛋,取蛋黄和面,然后用一把大刀切成极细的面条。连盛菜的瓷盘也是这位大厨亲手制作。这里价格最低的两人套餐价格是每人600人民币,包括10个冷盘和9道主菜。

Saturday

周六

4. A Monk’s Life | 11 a.m.

4. 寺庙生活 | 上午11点

With a history of some 1,400 years, Wenshu Monastery is one of China’s most significant Buddhist centers — and certainly one of its most active. On the weekends, locals flock to the sprawling complex of gray-tiled temples and gingko-filled courtyards to light incense from caldrons, rub copper dragons for good fortune and march in circles around a slender iron pagoda, hands clasped in prayer. The monastery has some of the best-preserved ancient Buddha statues in the country, along with paintings and calligraphy dating back hundreds of years, but the highlight may be the monastery garden, a shady spot of koi ponds, pagodas and sculpted rocks where the silver-haired crowd goes to enjoy a little peace and quiet.

文殊院是中国最重要的佛教中心之一,而且肯定是香火最旺的之一,它有将近1400年的历史。周末,本地人会成群结队地来到这里,在一座座灰砖寺庙建筑前,落满白果的宽阔庭院里,他们在大锅一样的香炉里点燃佛香,摩挲寺里的铜质龙雕以求获得好运,一边绕着细高的铁塔转圈,一边合十祈祷。这所寺庙有全中国保存最完好的一些古代佛像,还有一些有数百年历史的书画作品,但这里最精彩的部分的可能要数寺庙内的花园,有绿荫下的锦鲤池、寺塔和奇石,一些上了年纪的白发游客会在这里享受片刻的宁静。

5. Cheap Eats | 12:30 p.m.

5. 便宜小吃 | 中午12点半

Although the city’s street food vendors are dwindling, Chengdu’s tastiest snacks can still be had for pocket change in hole-in-the-wall restaurants, such as the noodle shop directly across from the monastery, Zhang Liang Fen. At lunchtime, a line of customers snakes out the door for the shop’s specialty, tian shui mian (sweet water noodles), a bowl of thick, hand-pulled noodles topped with mouth-numbing ground Sichuan peppercorns, chile oil, sesame paste and a spoonful of sugar (6 renminbi). Around the corner, join the queue at Yan Tai Po for another local must-try: guo kui, a crispy, baked bread pocket stuffed with pork and a spicy mix of shredded carrots, cucumbers and bean sprouts (7 renminbi). Menus in Pinyin and English make ordering simple.

虽然成都的街头食品摊正在减少,但是游客还是可以用一点零钱在小饭馆里吃到成都最美味的小吃。比如文殊院正对面这家小面馆——张凉粉。午饭时间,一条顾客的长队从饭馆门口蜿蜒着排出来,吸引他们的是这家店的招牌小吃甜水面(6元一碗)。这是一种手拉的粗面条,上面浇着能让嘴巴失去知觉的花椒面、辣椒油,外加芝麻酱和一勺糖。附近拐角处一家名为严太婆的店外,也排着另一条长龙,等着买当地另一种必尝小吃:锅魁(7元一个),这是一种酥脆的烤制面饼,里面夹着猪肉和辛辣的胡萝丝、黄瓜丝和豆芽。店里的菜单上写有拼音和英文,点单很方便。

6. Tea and a Show | 2 p.m.

6. 茶室表演 | 下午2点

With its earsplitting falsettos and crashing percussion instruments, Chinese opera is not for everyone. But for a taste of one of Chengdu’s most famous and enduring art forms — without the commitment of a pricey, hours-long performance at a theater — drop in to Yuelai Teahouse to watch for a bit in a more informal setting. Once a week, troupes from the Chengdu Sichuan Opera Theater perform on the small, lantern-lined stage at the century-old teahouse, one of the oldest in Chengdu, for a tea-sipping crowd of retirees (a ticket, with tea, is just 20 renminbi). There are no English subtitles, but the elaborate costumes and acrobatic, sleeve-twirling dancing can be entertaining enough without our necessarily following the plot.

中国戏曲因为有着高亢尖锐的假声和惊心动魄的打击伴奏乐器,不是所有人都能消受。如果单是想略微感受一下成都最著名、也最经久不衰的艺术形式,又不想花太多钱上剧院看几小时的长演出,你可以去悦来茶园,在更加日常的环境里欣赏一些川剧表演。成都川剧院的剧团会来这座百年老茶馆(成都历史最久的茶馆之一)演出,每周一次,地点是园内一个挂满灯笼的小戏台,下面的观众多是啜着茶的退休人员。一张门票(含茶饮)仅需20元。演出没有英文字幕,但是单看那考究的戏服、长袖飘飘的杂技式舞蹈,已是极具娱乐性,跟不跟得上剧情,也不那么重要了。

7. Taste of Tibet | 4 p.m.

7. 体验西藏 | 下午4点

Known as Little Lhasa, Chengdu’s colorful Tibetan quarter is as close as one can get to Tibet without traveling to the remote Sichuan countryside or crossing the border to Tibet itself. Wander down Wuhouci Heng Jie, directly opposite Wuhou Temple, and take in the sights: monks wrapped in maroon robes counting beads behind their backs, vendors selling yak butter on the street, and shop after shop of Tibetan Buddhist religious icons, prayer flags and wheels, tapestries, incense, wildly patterned leather boots, and beads of every hue, size and price. Don’t pay the asking price in any shop; bargaining is a must.

这个被为“小拉萨”的富有特色的藏族街区,是你在没有费力去四川乡下或越过省界直赴西藏的情况下,最能感受西藏风情的地方。沿着武侯祠正对面的武侯祠横街走下去,就可以看到:身穿红褐色长袍的藏族僧侣手背在后面捻着佛珠,路边卖酥油的小贩,和一间挨着一间的商店,里面售卖着藏传佛教的佛像、经幡、经轮、挂毯、佛香、图案粗犷的皮靴,还有颜色、大小和价格不一的无数珠子。在任何一家店里,都不要直接按报价付费,讨价还价是必须的。

8. Searing Stew | 7 p.m.

8. 沸腾的汤锅 | 晚上7点

The quintessential Chengdu dining experience is crowding around a furiously boiling pot of broth and dunking in every manner of sliced meat, balled seafood and leafy greens while throwing back copious bottles of Snow beer. While there are hot pot restaurants on practically every corner, Lao Ma Tou is one of Chengdu’s most famous, as much for the noisy, convivial atmosphere as for the throat-burning spiciness of the hot pots. (The pots can be divided into spicy and nonspicy broths for those wary of too much heat; prices start at 78 renminbi for broth, other ingredients vary by plate.) Servers in crisp white shirts prepare the dipping sauce — sesame oil mixed with garlic, sugar, vinegar, soy sauce and a little MSG — and supervise the cooking process for hot pot neophytes.

成都最有代表性的饮食体验是围坐在一个猛烈沸腾着的汤锅旁,一边往里面放入各种肉片、海鲜丸子和绿叶蔬菜,一边畅饮一瓶瓶雪花啤酒。虽说成都的火锅店遍布大街小巷,但老码头火锅堪称其中最著名的之一,除了灼人喉咙的火锅料之外,店内热闹欢乐的气氛也久负盛名。(怕吃辣的游客可以选鸳鸯锅,一半辣一半不辣;汤底价格最低78元,其他涮料价格不一。)穿着挺括白衬衫的服务员会为你准备蘸料(香油混合大蒜、糖、醋、酱油和一些味精),也会指导第一次吃火锅的新手如何操作。

9. A Little Night Music | 9 p.m.

9. 一点晚间音乐 | 晚上9点

When it comes to live music, few Chinese cities are as rocking as Chengdu. The pioneer of the local scene is Little Bar, which opened nearly 20 years ago and became a hub for the city’s underground artists and musicians. (The longtime owner, Tang Lei, is known by regulars as Sister Tang.) These days, the bar has a second, larger location (New Little Bar) with Belgian beers on the menu and a rotating schedule of national touring acts and local indie musicians. The crowd skews young — bespectacled 20-somethings with ripped jeans and Converse shoes who raise cellphones overhead during shows instead of lighters.

说到音乐,很少有哪个中国城市像成都这么热闹。当地酒吧界的先锋是“小酒馆”,一个经营了将近20多年的酒吧。它已经成为成都地下艺术家和音乐家的聚集地。(酒吧一直以来的主人是唐蕾,经常被称为“唐姐”。)目前,这个酒吧已经开出第二家更大的店(小酒馆新馆),那里供应比利时啤酒,有各类全国巡演将之作为成都站演出地,也有不少本地独立音乐人在此演出。酒吧里大多数是20多岁的年轻人,戴着眼镜,穿着破洞牛仔裤和邦威鞋,表演期间他们把手机,而不是打火机,举过头顶。

Sunday

周日

10. Panda Overload | 7:30 a.m.

10. 熊猫出没 | 早上7点半

After coming all this way to see the pandas, a visit to the Chengdu Research Base of Giant Panda Breeding requires a little strategizing to maximize alone time with the cuddly bears (more than 135 in all). Skip the hotel breakfast to be there for the 7:30 a.m. opening when the park is silent and the cubs in the Sunshine Nursery are just waking up (admission, 58 renminbi). Feeding time for the adolescent giant pandas happens next at the adjacent open-air enclosure — this is when the pandas are most active, stripping stalks of bamboo, lying back and eating their weight in leaves. After the 8:30 a.m. tour buses roll in, escape the crowds for a leisurely stroll through the beautifully manicured grounds to see the red panda enclosure. By midmorning, the pandas are ready for their siesta and the show’s over. Just another lazy day in mellow Chengdu.

既然大老远跑来看熊猫,那就得在去成都大熊猫繁育研究基地前制定一些策略,以争取获得和这些惹人喜爱的熊猫(该基地总共有135只)独处的最多时间。酒店早餐就不用吃了,好赶在7点半公园开门之前到达,那时整个公园很寂静,暖房(允许入内,票价55元)里的熊猫幼崽刚刚醒。接下来就到了给青春期大熊猫喂食的时间,它们就在暖房旁边的露天围场里,这个时间的大熊猫最为活跃,它们会剥掉竹叶,抱着竹竿躺下来,大啃特啃。8点半以后,旅游巴士就会大量到来,这时候躲开人群,悠闲地穿过花草修剪得整齐漂亮的庭院,去看小熊猫。上午十点左右,熊猫们要开始睡午觉了,这里的节目就结束了。又是怡人的成都懒洋洋的一天。

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