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遍尝多伦多本地美食指南

更新时间:2013-11-30 14:02:29 来源:纽约时报中文网 作者:佚名

In Toronto, a Locavore’s Life Made Easy
遍尝多伦多本地美食指南

FOR some, the term locavore has gone from revolutionary to groan-worthy, conjuring images of holier-than-thou elites with the means to worry about not just where, but by whom, their cheese is made. And yet, as easy as it might be to dismiss eating from harvests no more than 100 miles from home as a lark of the privileged, the movement is still gaining converts.

对有些人来说,“土食者”(locavore,也译作“当地膳食主义者”)这个术语已经从充满创意变得令人反感。一听到它,人们就会想到这样的画面:精英人士带着“我比你们高贵”的表情,吃饭时不仅担忧面前的奶酪在哪里制造,还担忧制造奶酪的人是谁。虽然这种只吃100英里以内农产品的做法很容易被贬为特权阶层的可笑做法,但土食主义运动仍然在吸引越来越多的追随者。

Toronto has embraced the trend with particular fervor. In a city where winters begin early and end late, every day of the week a new, or nearly new, ultra-local organic farmers’ market can be found in neighborhood parks; each one named for its barrio in an effort by neighborhood associations to bring local to the locals. The markets, many of them year-round, also offer travelers a glimpse of daily life here.

多伦多以独特的热情拥抱了这场潮流。在这个冬季来得早却走得晚的城市,几乎每天都会有一家超级本地化的有机农贸市场在社区公园出现。每个市场都以社区所在地命名,社区机构希望通过这个举措吸引本地人购买本地的食物。这些市场大部分都全年开放,也给旅行者提供了一个欣赏此地本土生活的机会。

“Up until a few years ago we had hardly any markets in the city, but it has really exploded,” said John RichLeMonde, the director of Sorauren Park Farmers’ Market (Monday 3 to 7 p.m.; corner of Sorauren Street and Wabash Avenue; westendfood.coop), a year-round operation that opened four years ago. During a visit this spring, dozens of children toddled about the market, dancing to the tunes of Jan Kudelka, a folk singer. Janet Dimond, owner of the stand Augie’s Gourmet Ice Pops (augiesicepops.com) briskly sold fresh icy confections (watermelon infused with cucumber and ginger, strawberry mingled with rhubarb) for $2.75 and bowls of asparagus, lemon and chickpea soup for $3. “On a day like this,” Ms. Dimond said, indicating the brilliant sunshine, “this is where everyone comes.” Alli Millar, who lives down the block, sold loaves of spring onion and wild wheat bread, and sticky buns for $3. Two women sold vegetarian spring rolls, freshly rolled, under a banner labeled Earth and City (earthandcity.ca), and Bizjak Farms sold its cider and apples, picked just a few miles away in Niagara, Ontario (bizjakfarms.com).

“几年前,这个城市几乎没有任何农贸市场,现在却呈现出爆炸式发展。”索劳伦公园农贸市场(Sorauren Park Farmers’ Market;周一下午3至7点;Sorauren Stree大街和Wabash Avenue大道交叉口;westendfood.coop)的负责人约翰·瑞奇里芒德(John RichLeMonde)说道。这个全年营业的市场是四年前开业的。今年春天数十名幼童曾来此参观,他们在市场中趔趄走动,并随着当地歌手珍妮·库德卡(Jan Kudelka)的歌声跳舞。小摊档奥吉美味棒冰(Augie’s Gourmet Ice Pops; augiesicepops.com)的老板珍妮特·迪蒙德(Janet Dimond在这里快乐地出售新鲜冰凉的水果甜点(塞有黄瓜和生姜的西瓜;混有红色芹菜[rhubarb]的草莓),售价每份2.75美元。含有芦笋、柠檬和鹰嘴豆的汤羹每碗3美元。“这样的天气,”迪蒙德女士指指灿烂的阳光,“人人都会到这里来。”住在附近街区的阿里·米拉(Alli Millar)在旁边出售大捆的香葱、野麦面包和3美元一只的甜面包。一个挂着“土地和城市”(Earth and City;earthandcity.ca)招牌的摊档上,两名妇女出售新鲜卷制的蔬菜馅儿春卷。而比兹雅克农场(Bizjak Farms;bizjakfarms.com)则叫卖苹果酒和苹果,所有果酒都是在几英里外的安省尼亚加拉市(Niagara, Ontario)腌制而成。

Mr. RichLeMonde credits one market with inspiring others to open in Toronto, Dufferin Grove Market (Thursday, 3 to 7 p.m.; just south of the intersection of Dufferin and Bloor Streets; dufferinpark.ca). It is in a park that was once a postage stamp of green in a rough neighborhood that has vastly improved, some say because of the market’s success since its arrival a decade ago. Dufferin Grove is a tremendous draw: on Friday nights, large communal dinners are cooked on site. The park has two giant outdoor wood-fired ovens where bread is baked and sold. It is also the site of a free ice skating rink.

瑞奇里芒德认为,这些市场之所以能够出现和繁荣,多伦多的达夫林林区市场(Dufferin Grove Market;周四下午3至7点;达夫林大街和布罗尔大街交叉口南侧;dufferinpark.ca)功不可没。这个地方以前不过是枯燥的社区里的一个小树林,后来经过了大规模的改善。改善的原因,有人认为是十年前出现在这里的农贸市场。达夫林林区是这个地区最具吸引力的去处:每个星期五晚上,这里都会现场烹制公用晚餐。公园里有两只巨大的木柴炉,制作和出售烤面包。此外还有个免费溜冰场。

Not all the markets are based in parks. “There are about 12 neighborhood markets in the Toronto Farmers’ Market Network but over 30 markets in the city, some in civic centers, some in parking lots,” said Anne Freeman, market manager at Dufferin Grove Market and a coordinator for the 90 markets in the green belt that hugs Toronto.

但并非所有的农贸市场都设在公园里。“多伦多农贸市场网络(Toronto Farmers’ Market Network)一共包括12个社区市场,但市区还有30多个农贸市场,有些在市中心,有些在停车场。”达夫林林区市场的市场经理安妮·弗里曼(Anne Freeman)说,她同时也是多伦多周边林带90个市场的协调者。

One of them is the Stop’s Farmers’ Market (Wychwood Barns, 601 Christie Street; thestop.org), which is held on Saturdays from 8 a.m. to noon in a former streetcar barn. Now the barns are used for artists’ studios and the market.

其中一个是车站农贸市场(Stop’s Farmers’ Market; Wychwood Barns, 601 Christie Street;thestop.org),每周六上午8点至12点开放,地点在一个以前的电车仓库里。这些仓库现在是艺术家的工作室和农贸市场。

The oldest market in the city, the St. Lawrence Farmers’ Market (93 Front Street), is also held on Saturdays across a small plaza from the storied food stalls of the same name (the main hall is filled with permanent food vendors and restaurants). There, farmers line one side, peddling piles of asparagus for $1, and bakers sell pretzels, pies and breads. The Torontonian Andy Rattray’s “Sabores Latinos” offers antibiotic- and hormone-free beef empanadas and black bean spicy quesadillas ($3.50 each). At the next stall, Moyer Rowe Family farms (rowefarms.ca) lets visitors taste freshly milled red fife wheat pasta and sauce, harvested and milled just outside of Toronto.

多伦多最古老的市场圣劳伦斯农贸市场(St. Lawrence Farmers’ Market; 93 Front Street)也是周六营业,对面是个小型广场,广场上有个同名的美食摊档(广场大厅里寂挤满了长期营业的食品摊和饭馆)。在那里,农夫站成一排出售1美元一堆的芦笋,面包师则叫卖法式脆饼、馅饼和面包。多伦多人安迪·拉特雷(Andy Rattray)的摊点Sabores Latinos提供不含抗生素和激素的牛肉馅卷饼及黑豆辣味玉米饼(每只3.5美元)。隔壁的摊档美雅·罗家族农场(Moyer Rowe Family; rowefarms.ca)让游客品尝新磨的红麦意大利面和酱汁,它们的原料都产自多伦多郊区。

“People are interested in buying more locally, and that’s starting to become mainstream,” said Mr. RichLeMonde of the Sorauren Park market. “There’s a sense that we are building the future economy.”

“人们喜欢购买更加本土的东西,这已开始成为一种主流趋势。”索劳伦公园市场的瑞奇里芒德说道。“我觉得我们正在开创一种未来的经济模式。”

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