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36小时玩转上海

更新时间:2013/12/5 23:37:28 来源:纽约时报中文网 作者:佚名

36 Hours in Shanghai
36小时玩转上海

What takes most cities eons to build, Shanghai can do overnight. Consider this: Just a decade ago, the city had four metro lines; now there are a dozen. The Jin Mao Tower was the tallest building in the neon-streaked financial center of Pudong; it has since been surpassed by the Shanghai World Financial Center and the nearly completed Shanghai Tower, which will be the second-tallest building in the world (after Dubai’s Burj Khalifa) when it’s finished next year. Still, what fascinates about this city is how little seems to have changed in the maze of lanes that have (thus far) eluded the bulldozer in the Old City or the former foreign concessions. Here, residents haggle over freshly caught fish in tiny markets or doze in lawn chairs on summer afternoons, ignoring the pounding jackhammers. Shanghai is remaking itself to become a “City of the Future,” but what’s so alluring is how much old-world character remains.

大多数城市经年累月才能建成的东西,上海一夜间就能完成。想想这个:就在十年前,这座城市还只有四条地铁线,现在它已经有了12条。在霓虹灯闪烁的金融中心浦东,金茂大厦曾是最高的大楼;而之后,它就被上海环球金融中心和几近完工的上海中心大厦超越。明年完工后,上海中心大厦将成为世界第二高楼(仅次于迪拜的哈里发塔[Burj Khalifa])。不过,这个城市最吸引人之处还在于,在老城区和过去的外国租界,那些错综复杂的小弄堂(到目前为止)躲开了推土机的烦扰,一切似乎都没有变过。在这里,你能看到本地人在狭小的市场里为新鲜的鱼讨价还价,或者夏日午后在屋外的躺椅上打盹,对手提钻机发出的响声充耳不闻。上海正在重新将自己打造成“未来之城”,但迷人的是,这里旧世界的风貌犹存。

FRIDAY

周五

3 p.m.

下午3:00

1. Model City

1. 城市模型

Start with an overview. Spanning the third floor of the Shanghai Urban Planning Exhibition Center (admission 30 renminbi, or about $5 at 6 renminbi to the dollar) is a model of the city as it’s expected to look in 2020, with thousands of miniature buildings, elevated highways lined with yellow lights and streetlamps the size of toothpicks. The kitsch tour of Shanghai continues in the adjacent 360-degree projection theater, where visitors are taken on a virtual aerial tour of the city, swooping over bridges and high-speed trains as fireworks explode in the smog-free sky. It’s a paean to mass development, 21st-century Chinese style — big, brash and over the top.

先看看城市概貌吧。在上海城市规划展示馆三层,是覆盖整个楼层的上海2020年面貌的城市模型(门票30元人民币,约合5美元),里面有成千上万座微型建筑、两侧是有着黄色路灯的高架路,以及如牙签大小的街灯。你可以在旁边的360度投影影院里,继续领略上海当下的景象,在那里观众会被带入一场虚拟旅行,从空中俯瞰上海。在掠过大桥和高铁时,烟花在没有雾霾的晴朗天空中绽放。这是对大规模发展,以及宏大、匆促和夸张的21世纪中国风格的赞歌。

4:30 p.m.

下午4:30

2. Glamour Shots

2. 魅力剪影

While swaths of old Shanghai have fallen, many historic buildings have been spared and refurbished in recent years, particularly around the Bund. One noteworthy project is the Rockbund Art Museum (15 renminbi), housed in an extensively renovated 1930s Art Deco building. The museum exhibits works by well-known contemporary artists like Cai Guo-Qiang and Zhang Huan and isn’t afraid to take risks: One show featured live monkeys in a cage with a robotic Confucius until the government ordered the primates removed. Around the corner is Yuanmingyuan Road, a block of equally stunning turn-of-the century buildings that doubles as a catwalk for brides in red dresses preening for wedding photographers.

虽然近些年来,大片旧上海建筑已被推倒,但很多历史建筑得以保存并被翻修,尤其是外滩附近的建筑。值得一提的一项工程就是上海外滩美术馆(门票15元),它位于一个上世纪30年代装饰派艺术风格的大楼里,这座大楼经过了大面积整修。美术馆并不害怕冒险,这里正展览着蔡国强和张洹等著名当代艺术家的作品:其中的一个展品是一个机器人的孔子和一群活的猴子一起关在笼子里,直到政府要求把这些猴子弄走。街角处便是圆明园路,这个街区留存着的上世纪的建筑也同样令人赞叹。这里还是新娘的T型台,她们穿着红色的礼服,努力在婚纱照摄影师的镜头前显得漂亮迷人。

7 p.m.

晚上7:00

3. Party Like It’s 1929

3. 来派对吧,就像1929年一样

Shanghai’s historic Bund hasn’t looked this good since Noël Coward and Charlie Chaplin were party guests in the city’s glamorous prewar years. As part of the city’s sprucing-up for the 2010 World Expo, the concession-era strip underwent a three-year restoration that moved most of the traffic underground and widened the riverside promenade to create a pleasant place to stroll in the evenings (minus the crowds). Several iconic properties have also recently returned to their former splendor. Splurge on a 500-renminbi glass of Yao Ming’s cabernet sauvignon — or a more reasonably priced bottle from the extensive wine list — on the rooftop bar at the House of Roosevelt, a neo-Classical building restored by a company run by Theodore Roosevelt’s great-grandson Tweed. Or drop by the Long Bar at the Waldorf Astoria, a 110-foot-long recreation of the original Long Bar at the former Shanghai Club, an exclusive British gentleman’s club that became a KFC in the 1990s.

在上海战前的光彩岁月,诺埃尔·科沃德(Noël Coward)和查理·卓别林(Charlie Chaplin)曾是这里的派对宾客,而自那以来,上海有着历史意义的外滩,从没像现在这样美丽。作为迎接2010年世博会的城市面貌改造的一部分,这一从租界时代保留下来的狭长地带经过了三年重修,大部分交通被转移至地下,江边的人行道经过拓宽,为人们在晚间散步时创造了一个更愉悦的环境(如果不考虑拥挤人群的话)。一些标志性建筑最近也重现往昔风采。在罗斯福公馆的屋顶酒吧,你可以花500元,奢侈地喝上一杯姚明推出的赤霞珠葡萄酒,或者是从丰富的酒单中选一瓶价格更为适中的酒。罗斯福公馆是一座新古典风格建筑,由西奥多·罗斯福(Theodore Roosevelt)的曾孙德尔·罗斯福(Tweed Roosevelt)经营的公司重新修复。你还可以到华尔道夫酒店的廊吧坐一坐,这里的吧台长约34米,再现了过去上海总会(Shanghai Club)的廊吧。上海总会是过去驻沪英国侨民的专属俱乐部,后来在上世纪90年代改造成一家肯德基(KFC)餐厅。

8 p.m.

晚上8:00

4. A Movable Feast

4. 流动的盛宴

Jason Atherton is building quite a culinary empire in Asia. The Michelin-starred chef behind Pollen Street Social in London has opened six restaurants in Shanghai, Hong Kong and Singapore since 2010, including the new Commune Social, a playful tapas restaurant where eating a meal feels more like barhopping. First, small plates of miso-grilled mackerel with wasabi avocado and cucumber chutney (88 renminbi) and oysters with Vietnamese dressing (48 renminbi each) are served at the informal tapas bar overlooking the busy kitchen. Next, diners head to the narrow, white-tiled dessert bar to watch the South African pastry chef Kim Lyle make inventive desserts like goat’s cheese, yogurt sorbet and honeycomb frozen with liquid nitrogen (55 renminbi). The last stop is the hidden cocktail bar upstairs for a PBJ (cognac, cherry brandy, peanut butter, strawberry jelly; 88 renminbi), a nightcap that doubles as a midnight snack.

贾森·阿瑟顿(Jason Atherton)正在亚洲建造一个餐饮帝国。自2010年起,这位米其林星级大厨、伦敦宝仑街社交场餐厅(Pollen Street Social)的老板已在上海、香港和新加坡开了六家餐厅,其中包括新开的食社(Commune Social),这是一家有趣的西班牙小吃餐厅,在那里吃饭更像是泡吧。首先,在有着开放式厨房的随意小吃区品尝小碟的“味噌烤鲭鱼,芥末牛油果,黄瓜酸辣酱”(88元)、牡蛎佐越式甜辣酱(每只48元)。接下来再转移到镶着白色瓷砖的狭窄的甜品区,在那里欣赏饼房总厨金莱尔(Kim Lyle)制作别出心裁的甜点,比如“羊酪,酸奶冰糕,(液氮冷冻)的蜂巢糖”(55元)。最后再到二楼有些隐蔽的鸡尾酒吧,享用一杯花生兄爱果酱妹(干邑、樱桃白兰地、花生酱和草莓果酱,88元),睡前喝这一杯也可以算作午夜的小零食。

SATURDAY

周六

10 a.m.

上午10:00

5. Powerful Art

5. 震撼的艺术

Shanghai could never be criticized for lack of ambition. Not content with being merely a financial hub, the city has been on a museum building spree in recent years to establish itself as a global arts center, too. One of the more promising institutions is the Power Station of Art, which opened last October in a late 19th-century power plant that was renovated for the 2010 Expo. With its industrial feel and focus on modern art, the museum feels similar to the Tate Modern, and it’s already hosted several major exhibitions, including the Shanghai Biennale and the largest collection of Andy Warhol’s art in Asia (though the Mao Zedong portraits were left out for obvious reasons). After checking out the art, take in the view of the barges chugging lazily up the Huangpu River from the expansive fifth-floor deck.

上海永远不会被批判缺乏抱负。这座城市不满足只当一个金融中心,近几年一直在大举修建博物馆,要将自己打造成一个全球艺术中心。其中颇有发展前景的机构之一便是上海当代艺术博物馆。这家博物馆于去年10月开放,在一个为2010年世博会翻新的19世纪末电厂的基础上建成。这座颇具工业特色的博物馆将重点放在当代艺术上,感觉有些像泰特现代美术馆(Tate Modern),而且它已经办过几个大型展览,包括上海双年展以及亚洲最大的安迪·沃霍尔(Andy Warhol)作品回顾展(尽管由于显而易见的原因,那幅毛泽东的画像没能参展)。参观完艺术作品后,可以到空间开阔的五楼咖啡厅,看驳船在黄浦江上轰隆隆地缓慢前行。

Noon

中午

6. Healthful Eats

6. 健康饮食

In response to China’s mounting food safety concerns, many local restaurants are now taking a healthier approach to cooking, such as Jian Guo 328, which prides itself on using only high-quality cooking oil, filtered water and no MSG. (The Taiwanese owner also bans smoking.) Menu standouts are all Shanghainese favorites: cong you ban mian (noodles in scallion oil; 18 renminbi), xie fen dou fu (custard-like tofu with flakes of crab and crab roe; 32 renminbi) and shi zi tou mian (a giant pork meatball in noodle soup; 28 renminbi). Not only is the food deliciously authentic, it’s much lighter than other local joints.

为了回应中国日益加剧的食品安全担忧,本地许多餐馆现在对烹饪有了更健康的态度,建国328小馆就是一个例子。这家餐馆引以为豪的是,只使用高质量的烹饪用油和纯净水,而且不使用味精。(来自台湾的老板还禁止在店里抽烟。)菜单上出彩的菜品都是上海特色:葱油拌面(18元)、蟹粉豆腐(32元)、狮子头面(28元)。这里的食物美味又正宗,也比本地的其他食肆更清淡。

2 p.m.

下午2:00

7. Designer District

7. 设计区

With its charming villas and bohemian vibe, the former French Concession has become a magnet for artists and designers opening boutiques. Dong Liang Studio is the place to find rising fashion talents, such as Christopher Bu, the stylist for the Chinese “it” girl Fan Bingbing. At Brut Cake, Nicole Teng makes tote bags and upholstered furniture using old Chinese fabrics. Down the street, stop at the Japanese designer Mayumi Sato’s shop for women’s clothes of brightly patterned organic cottons, silks and vintage kimono fabrics; and Piling Palang for Deng Bingbing’s exquisite ceramic and cloisonné pieces.

这里有迷人的别墅和波西米亚的氛围,过去的法租界现在已经成了艺术家和设计师开设精品店的热门场所。在栋梁工作室,你能找到正在冉冉升起的时尚人才,比如中国当红女星范冰冰的造型师卜柯文(Christopher Bu)。Brut Cake的邓乃瑄(Nicole Teng)使用中国老式的织物制作手提袋和软垫家具。继续沿着街走,就会与日本设计师Mayumi Sato的女装店铺相遇。这里的衣物图案明亮,采用有机的棉、丝面料,以及复古的和服面料。在Piling Palang,能触摸到邓兵兵精致的陶瓷作品和景泰蓝物件。

4 p.m.

下午4:00

8. Dancing With the Retirees

8. 与退休老人共舞

When you’re all shopped out, a respite awaits on the other side of the former French Concession in Fuxing Park, where elderly Shanghainese come for gossip — and a bit of a show. Old men in Mao jackets chain-smoke and play cards on park benches, drawing hordes of onlookers, while small troupes of musicians gather in hidden corners to sing Peking opera classics. The main attraction, however, happens beneath the towering plane trees in the center of the park where well-dressed couples show off their best ballroom dancing moves to syrupy Chinese love songs.

购物过后,在前法租界对面的复兴公园可以休憩片刻。上海的老人们常常来这里闲谈,有时也展示一下自己。身穿中山装的老先生们坐在公园的长凳上,一边打牌,一边一根接一根地抽烟,吸引了很多人前来围观。小群小群的票友躲藏在角落里唱京剧。而最吸引人的景象,就发生在公园中间高高的法国梧桐树下。在那里,一对对衣着考究的舞者,和着婉转的中文情歌翩翩起舞。

7:30 p.m.

下午7:30

9. Cinematic Cuisine

9. 电影一般的餐厅

If the 1960s Hong Kong diner décor at Cha’s Restaurant looks like a movie set, that’s because it is. Well, sort of. Charlie Hau, a Hong Kong movie producer, opened a traditional cha chaan teng (tea restaurant) in Shanghai after struggling to find authentic Cantonese food while shooting the Ang Lee film “Lust, Caution.” Mr. Hau’s cinematic expertise ensured that every detail was perfect, from the leather-backed booths and 1960s china patterns to a menu that includes Hong Kong staples like poached chicken in soy sauce (60 renminbi for a half-bird) and pineapple buns (8 renminbi). Cha’s has become a hit with the Hong Kong diaspora, as well as trendy young Shanghainese with dyed hair and high-tops, so be prepared for a wait.

如果说查餐厅(Cha’s Restaurant)里,上世纪60年代风情的香港餐厅装潢让它看起来像是一处拍电影的片场,那是因为它的确是,或者说基本上是。香港的电影制片人侯杰辉(Charlie Hau)在参与拍摄李安(Ang Lee)的电影《色,戒》时,在寻找正宗的粤式菜品方面历尽艰辛,于是干脆自己在上海自己开了一家传统的茶餐厅。侯杰辉在电影业的专业知识,确保从皮质靠背的座椅,到上世纪60年代的瓷器花纹等每个细节都完美无瑕。菜单上囊括了主打的港式菜品,如玫瑰豉油鸡(60元半只)和菠萝包(8元)。查餐厅不仅在旅居上海的香港人中很受欢迎,在染着各色头发脚穿高帮帆布鞋的时髦上海青年中也很受欢迎,所以要做好等位的心理准备。

10:30 p.m.

晚上10:30

10. Spanish Speakeasy

10. 西班牙小酒馆

Shanghai’s cocktail scene has become highly competitive in recent years, with a constantly revolving door of new speakeasy-style bars and enterprising mixologists. One bar, however, has separated itself from the pack: the Barcelona native Willy Trullás Moreno’s El Cóctel, which combines Spanish-style décor (leather ottomans, exposed brick walls, a floral ceiling design by a Barcelona artist) with one of the most colorful drinks menus in town (the Late Night Tale, 84 renminbi, for instance, is made with Tennessee whisky, Canadian maple syrup, coffee — and a side of insomnia). For a night spot with more bounce, pull up a stool outside one of the shoe-box bars on Yongkang Road — a former vegetable market that has become a raucous bar street popular with the fixed-gear-bike-riding expat community.

上海主打鸡尾酒的酒吧近几年来竞争十分激烈,一家又一家地下风格的酒吧开了又关,调酒师也总是换来换去。然而有一家酒吧却卓尔不群,那就是巴塞罗那人威利·特鲁拉斯·莫雷诺(Willy Trullás Moreno)开的El Cóctel。这家店既有西班牙式的装潢(皮革脚凳、裸露的砖墙,以及一位巴塞罗那艺术家设计的花纹天花板),又有沪上最异彩纷呈的酒单,例如84元一杯的“深夜故事”(Late Night Tale),内含田纳西威士忌、加拿大枫糖、咖啡,还要再加上一点点失眠。如果你在夜晚想找一个更热闹的所在,不如到永康路去,在鞋盒一样狭窄的酒吧外,坐在高凳上啜饮。这里曾经是一个菜市场,但现在已经成了喧闹的酒吧街,派驻上海的外国人中总喜欢骑着死飞在这里穿梭。

SUNDAY

周日

10:30 a.m.

上午10:30

11. Sidewalk Snacks

11. 路边小吃

Breakfast in China is best enjoyed on the street, still piping hot from the wok or steamer. The only difficulty is deciphering a Chinese menu. UnTour Shanghai (untourshanghai.com), a street culinary tour company, simplifies the process by doing the ordering for you. The Dumplings Delights tour (400 renminbi) spans the breadth of China, from cabbage-filled jiao zi eaten in wintry northeastern China to delicate shrimp almond pastries from southern China and, of course, Shanghai’s famous xiao long bao (soup dumplings) — all in a two-square-block area. Fortunately, there’s enough walking between stops to justify such gluttony, though in anything-goes Shanghai, you’ll need little excuse.

中国的早餐最好在刚出锅或出笼时,热腾腾地在街头享用。唯一的困难是搞不明白中文的菜单写的是什么。带你品尝街头美食的旅游公司UnTour上海游(untourshanghai.com),可以帮你点单,简化这个过程。“包馅小吃”(Dumpling Dlights)之旅(400元)可以在方圆两个路口的范围内,让你尝到中国各地的美味小点,既有来自寒风凛冽的中国东北的白菜馅饺子,又有南方精致的杏仁虾球,当然更少不了大名鼎鼎的上海小笼包。幸运的是,每一餐之间行走的距离足够远,完全有理由大快朵颐。不过在无所不有的上海,你根本不需要什么借口。

THE DETAILS

详细地址

1. Shanghai Urban Planning Exhibition Center, 100 Renmin Avenue; supec.org.

1. 上海城市规划展示馆,人民大道100号;supec.org。

2. Rockbund Art Museum, 20 Huqiu Road; rockbundartmuseum.org.

2. 上海外滩美术馆,虎丘路20号;rockbundartmuseum.org。

3. House of Roosevelt, 27 East Zhongshan First Road; 27bund.com. Waldorf Astoria, 2 East Zhongshan First Road; www.waldorfastoriashanghai.com.

3. 罗斯福公馆,中山东一路27号;27bund.com。华尔道夫酒店,中山东一路2号;www.waldorfastoriashanghai.com

4. Commune Social, 511 Jiangning Road; communesocial.com.

4. 食社,江宁路511号;communesocial.com。

5. Power Station of Art, 200 Huayuangang Road; powerstationofart.org.

5. 上海当代艺术博物馆,花园港路200号;powerstationofart.org。

6. Jian Guo 328, 328 West Jianguo Road, 86-21-6471-3819.

6. 建国328小馆,建国西路328号,86-21-6471-3819。

7. Dong Liang Studio, 184 Fumin Road, 86-21-3469-6926. Brut Cake, 232 Anfu Road, brutcake.com. Mayumi Sato, 169 Anfu Road; mayumisato.com. Piling Palang, 183 Anfu Road.

7. 栋梁工作室,富民路184号,86-21-3469-6926。Brut Cake,安福路232号;brutcake.com。Mayumi Sato,安福路169号;mayumisato.com。Piling Palang,安福路183号。

8. Fuxing Park, 2 Gaolan Road.

8. 复兴公园,皋兰路2号。

9. Cha’s Restaurant, 30 Sinan Road; 86-21-6093-2062.

9. 查餐厅,思南路30号,86-21-6093-2062。

10. El Cóctel, 47 Yongfu Road, el-coctel.com.

10. El Cóctel,永福路47号;el-coctel.com。

11. Dumplings Delights tour, UnTour Shanghai; untourshanghai.com.

11. 包馅小吃之旅,UnTour上海游;untourshanghai.com。

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