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探寻美国西海岸的世外桃源

更新时间:2013-12-14 14:57:53 来源:纽约时报中文网 作者:佚名

‘My West Coast Martha’s Vineyard’
探寻美国西海岸的世外桃源

That first time I walked through the grassy dunes of Point Reyes National Seashore, back in 1997, it felt familiar. On this stretch of California sand, I’d found the West Coast doppelgänger of Gay Head, on the southwestern point of Martha’s Vineyard, from where I’d recently moved. Though it was summer, I was wearing a fleece, and the sandstone cliffs of Limantour Beach were shrouded in fog. But the echoes of the Vineyard in Point Reyes were immediately clear: a rugged, relatively remote refuge with salty air, fresh fish and a strong sense of place.

我第一次走在雷斯岬国家海岸(Point Reyes National Seashore)的草丘间,还是1997年的事,一见便颇有似曾相识之感。那加利福尼亚海滩的延伸一角,我觉得像极了玛莎葡萄园岛西南角的盖伊头(Gay Head),彼时我刚从那里搬走。虽是夏天,我还是穿了绒衣,丽曼托海滩的砂岩峭壁上,雾气弥漫。但是在这里,玛莎葡萄园的情形跃然眼前:天然犷美、山重水复的世外桃源,空气带咸、鱼味鲜美、地域感强烈。

The differences, though, soon became evident. At Point Reyes, there was no mugginess or mosquitoes. No ferry lines or frozen mudslides. No tennis whites or Nantucket reds. No crowds. It was my West Coast Martha’s Vineyard, I decided one recent weekend while sitting solo on a hay bale in the sun eating a grass-fed goat burger, only better.

然而,两地的区别很快就显现出来。在雷斯岬,没有闷热潮湿,没有蚊子。没有渡轮航线,也没有“冰冻泥石流”鸡尾酒。没有穿白色网球衫的人,也没有穿红裤子的楠塔基特人。没有拥挤的人群。这里就是我在西海岸的玛莎葡萄园,有过之而无不及——这是我在最近的一个周末,独自坐在干草垛上,晒着太阳吃着天然草饲羊肉汉堡时得出的结论。

On the Point Reyes peninsula, a winding hour-and-a-half drive north of San Francisco, friends and I have hiked for miles and kayaked with harbor seals; we’ve pitched tents on pocket beaches and shucked oysters at ramshackle farms. And come fall, when the weather warms and the (slightly less chilly) water beckons, we even swim.

沿旧金山向北蜿蜒一个半钟头,便是雷斯岬半岛。在这里,我和朋友们走几英里长的山路,与斑海豹一同泛舟游水,在湾头滩支起帐篷,到年久失修的农场里剥生蚝吃。秋天,天气尚暖的时候,还不算太冷的海水在召唤我们,有时我们便会下去游个泳。

Point Reyes also has more Holsteins, herons and herds of tule elk than humans; locals live in a handful of blink-and-you’ll-miss-them-type of towns: Olema, the tiny gateway, at the well-trodden intersection of Highway 1 and Sir Francis Drake Boulevard; Inverness, on Tomales Bay, with its own bare-bones yacht club founded in 1912; Marshall, which draws oyster-slurping day-trippers, with six-packs and sauvignon blanc in tow; nearby Bolinas, notoriously unfriendly to outsiders.

还有,住在雷斯岬的荷斯坦乳牛、苍鹭和图莱麋鹿比人多,当地人大多居住在几个小到你一眨眼便会错过的小镇上。比如,奥莱马小镇(Olema)位于1号高速公路和法兰西斯戴基爵士大道繁忙的交叉口,是雷斯岬狭小的入口;因弗内斯小镇(Inverness)坐落于托马里湾(Tomales Bay),拥有小镇自己的、始建于1912年的简式游艇俱乐部;马歇尔小镇(Marshall)吸引着那些当天往返特来大快朵颐的游客,他们一边稀哩呼噜地吃着生蚝,一边畅饮六瓶装的啤酒或白苏维翁葡萄酒;附近另有波利纳斯小镇(Bolinas),对游人出了名的不友好。

With a bookstore, a bakery beloved by cyclists and a feed barn that doubles as a yoga studio, Point Reyes Station (population 848) is the metropolis of West Marin, what the locals call their rich agricultural region, home to organic dairy farms, sustainable grass-fed cattle ranches — and 70,000 protected acres of pine forests and coastal prairie.

雷斯岬站小镇(Point Reyes Station)有848名居民, 有一间书店,一家倍受单车友喜爱的面包店,和一座闲时用作瑜伽室的饲喂场,这里是西马林地区的中心地。当地人称西马林一带为富足农业区,这里有有机奶牛场、草饲生态畜牧场以及一个占地7万英亩的松林和沿海草原保护区。

The original plan, promoters said, was to turn it into “a Jones Beach on the Pacific,” before John F. Kennedy, urged by a group of local conservationists, declared it a national seashore in 1962: 80 miles of shoreline forever free of condos and golf courses, cabanas and cotton candy stands.

据规划者称,原本的计划是将这里变成“太平洋沿岸的琼斯海滩(纽约长岛著名海滩,每到夏季,热闹非凡——译注)”,但在当地生态环境保护者的强烈敦促下,约翰·肯尼迪总统在1962年宣布将这里定为国家海岸:从此,80英里长的海岸线再不用担心海滨公寓、高尔夫球场、沙滩凉亭和棉花糖摊的惊扰了。

Still, at 51, the Point Reyes National Seashore remains every pastoral cliché: cow country, birder’s paradise, heaven for hikers. Now add to that list foodie destination, as local restaurants are finally on par with the local ingredients. “West Marin is one of the most vibrant local food sheds in the world,” said the writer Michael Pollan, a friend to its tight-knit group of farmers, ranchers and cheesemakers. Alice Waters recently told me it’s where she wishes Chez Panisse could be.

51年后的今天,雷斯岬国家海岸仍保持着典型的田园风光:牛群成片的乡野、观鸟一族的乐土、远足爱好者的天堂。在此基础上,更要加以美食胜地之名:这里的餐厅水准如今终可与当地的著名食材平分秋色。“西马林地区精彩纷呈的土产美食小吃在世界范围内也堪称首列。”作家迈克尔·波伦(Michael Pollan)如是说,他和这里的由农夫、牧场主、奶酪制造商们组成的私密圈子交往甚密。最近,爱丽丝·沃特斯(Alice Waters)对我说,要是潘尼斯之家餐厅(Chez Panisse)能开在这里就好了(爱丽丝·沃特斯,美国名厨、全球“慢餐运动”的教母、潘尼斯之家餐厅的创始人,奉行采用当地当季有机食材的烹饪哲学——译注)。

In February, Margaret Grade and Daniel DeLong, two friends of Ms. Waters, opened a restaurant, Sir and Star at the Olema, which is as committed to using ingredients farmed/foraged/fished “within arm’s reach,” to use Ms. Grade’s phrase, as was their famed Manka’s Inverness Lodge, before it burned to the ground in 2006. Now, instead of committing to Manka’s seven-course prix fixe feasts, hiking-boot-clad diners pop by for homey dishes like Dave’s Beef, Cooked Around the Clock — or, on a Saturday night, wait so long for a table that the supply of homemade dinner rolls runs dry.

二月间,沃特斯的两位朋友,玛格丽特·格雷德(Margaret Grade) 和丹尼尔·德朗(Daniel DeLong)开了一间餐厅,名作“奥莱马的士与星”(Sir and Star at the Olema),与他们昔日备受美誉的“万佳因弗内斯小屋”(Manka’s Inverness Lodge,2006年失火烧为灰烬)一样,专用当地耕种、饲养或养殖的食材,用格雷德女士的话说,要近到“伸手即得”最好。而今,与万佳的定价七道菜全套大餐不同,脚踏远足登山鞋的食客们来此小坐,吃上一道家常风味的“全日慢烹戴夫牛肉”(Dave’s Beef, Cooked Around the Clock)。礼拜六晚上等桌位要等很久,有时等到有座位的时候,自制的餐包都卖完了。

Dave Evans (of the aforementioned beef), a fourth-generation rancher and owner of Marin Sun Farms, is thrilled that the culinary scene here is thriving. “It was always ‘barbecue oysters with the same sauce,’ ” Mr. Evans said. “Now it’s, like, ‘artisanal oysters, in a brown butter shallot sauce’ — and three other ways.”

第四代牧场主、马林太阳农场的主人戴夫·埃文斯(Dave Evans,前文提及的牛肉菜品即以他命名),见这里烹食有道、欣欣繁荣,十分欢喜。“之前吃生蚝就只有烧烤一种,酱汁也是千篇一律,”埃文斯先生说,“现在是 ‘褐黄油红葱酱手调生蚝’,另外还有其他三种做法。”

Not everyone, of course, is thrilled with change coming to an area meant to remain unchanged. “Point Reyes Station used to be a country town,” said Barbara McClellan, owner for the last 38 years of the novelty shop Lil Bit of a Lot o’ Things. “Not anymore,” she lamented, surrounded by gag gifts like phony hickeys, dusty Christmas decorations and “Everything Must Go!” signs. Her store will become a wine shop when Osteria Stellina, the farm-to-table trattoria next door, expands next month.

当然,对于这个意在保留原貌的地方发生着的变化,并不是每个人都这么喜闻乐见。“雷斯岬站过去只是个乡村小镇,如果却不是了,”精品礼物店“一样一点儿”(Lil Bit of a Lot o’ Things)过去38年的店主芭芭拉·麦克莱伦(Barbara McClellan)感叹道。她周围摆着假吻痕之类的恶作剧道具礼物,落了灰的圣诞装饰品,以及“清仓大卖”的牌子。她旁边的“农场到餐桌式”餐馆“斯特林厨房”(Osteria Stellina)下个月扩建,她的小店将被改成葡萄酒商店。

As Dan Morrissey, the third owner of the 100-year-old barbershop down the block, bluntly put it: “All the old people here are dying, and the yuppies are moving in.” Real estate prices have jumped roughly 20 percent in the last few years, according to brokers.

如沿街那间百年理发店的第三位老板丹·莫里西(Dan Morrissey)直言所说:“所有的老人正相继死去,雅皮士们正陆续搬来。”据地产经纪人称,这里的房价在过去几年里已上跃了约20%。

All of which is why my husband, Josh, and I like to rent a place and pretend we’re locals. In May, we stayed at our favorite little guest cottage, found on the rental site VRBO.com — up on a ridge, with views of forested Mount Vision and the occasional osprey.

以上种种,也是我和丈夫乔什(Josh)喜欢来这里租房子、权当自己是当地人住下来的原因。五月里,我们住在最钟意的小客舍里,这个住所是在租房网站VRBO.com上找到的,屋立山脊,鸟瞰树木成林的山景路(Mount Vision),还可偶见鱼鹰。

Another plus for rentals: sometimes the owner becomes a guide. Ours led us on a walk through “the secret trails of Inverness,” as he called it — a woodsy labyrinth of easements blazed in the late 1800s.

租住还有一个好处:有时房东会成为你的向导。我们的房东就领了我们去他叫作“因弗内斯的秘径”的地带一览,那是一片林木茂密、迷宫般的村墅,都建于19世纪末期。

Through unlocked gates of rustic homes passed down through generations, I was introduced to a frail former judge who is building a chicken coop in his backyard, which has sweeping bay views, and a 50-something environmentalist who supplies his friends with fresh-caught salmon.

村墅世代相传,并不上锁,房东带我们拜访了几家,向我引见了一位孱弱的昔日法官,他正在后院搭盖鸡舍,从这里望出去,湾景一览无遗。我们还见到了一位五十岁左右的环保主义者,他常为朋友们供应现捕的新鲜三文鱼。

The next day, we explored the area’s oyster farms. We joined a beekeeping couple from Kansas City who stopped on their drive up Highway 1, specifically for the Oyster Lover’s Tour with new West Marin Food & Farm Tours. Elizabeth Hill, whose grandparents and great-grandparents summered in Inverness, recently moved here full-time herself, to start a series of small-group culinary excursions. It’s the first of its kind in a place that typically eschews anything oriented toward tourists. “I overheard a woman complaining the other day about ‘some new tour company,’ ” Ms. Hill said. “ ‘Oh, it’s O.K.,’ ” she recounted the woman’s friend saying. “ ‘It’s Norma Wells’s granddaughter.’ ”

第二天,我们游访了这里的生蚝养殖场,遇见一对来自堪萨斯城的养蜂夫妇,与他们同游。他们沿1号高速公路驱车北上,在此停脚,特为参加新添了“西马林美食农场游”一项的食蚝之旅。伊丽莎白·希尔(Elizabeth Hill)的祖父母、曾祖父母昔日都在此间消夏,她最近便搬来这里长住,开创些以美食为主题的小团短途旅行。这在回避任何针对游客事宜的小镇里,还是头一遭。“我那天听见有个女人在抱怨‘什么新开的旅游公司’,”希尔女士说。“噢,不要紧的,”她把那个女人的朋友的答话学给我听,“那是诺玛·维尔(Norma Well)的孙女。”

Stuffed on briny oysters and a picnic lunch of pastrami, bread, blue cheese and chutney (all locally made and obtained at various area shops), Josh and I mourned the fact that there was no time for our favorite 10-mile trek through the tule elk preserve at Tomales Point. Maybe a bioluminescence paddle on the bay tonight instead, we decided.

吃了一顿咸水生蚝,又美美饱食了一顿熏牛肩肉、面包、蓝纹干酪、蜜酱(都是在当地的小店里买来的当地生产的食物)的野餐后,我和乔什愁闷着没有时间去走我们最爱的、位于托马里角(Tomales Point)的图莱麋鹿保护区10英里小路了。我们决定,晚上去湾上泛舟赏生物萤光也好。

That evening, en route to the bay, though, we spied a trail winding through a lush meadow and pulled over. The air was warm and still, and we were joined only by munching cows. Then, suddenly, a great blue heron swooped down to grab a gopher. Getting hungry, too, we turned the car around.

那天晚上去海湾的途中,我们无意中发掘了一条散步小路,蜿蜒藏在苍翠茂盛的草场中,于是停下车来。空气温暖,没有一丝风,周围只有牛群在大嚼特嚼着草叶。忽然,一只大蓝鹭俯冲下来擒一只地鼠。我们也饿了,便掉头往回开。

Sunday at Sir and Star is much mellower, a locals’ affair. “You’re back,” our server said with a smile, as we slid into a table by a window.

礼拜天的“奥莱马的士与星”餐厅较平时更加舒缓些,更是当地人的好去处。“你们来了,”服务生微笑着说,我们在靠窗的位子坐下。

Did we really just skip kayaking under the stars for dinner rolls? But then they arrived: six still-warm, pull-apart buns, with a mound of butter churned with local cream and whipped with West Marin honey. The butter was so good that when the bread is gone, I went for my spoon.

我们真的为了吃这里的餐包而放弃了在星空下泛舟的美事吗?这时,面包上来了,六个热气腾腾、刚用手掰开的小圆面包,配一团拌有当地奶油和西马林蜂蜜的黄油。黄油异常美味,面包吃光后,我开始舔勺子。

IF YOU GO

实用信息

Where to Stay

住宿:

For lodging, the home rental site VRBO.com is the way to go. Though rental rates are rising, what you’d pay for a summer week in Martha’s Vineyard could buy an entire month in Inverness. Accommodations can range from a one-bedroom renovated chicken coop to a waterfront cottage to a modern house with a living roof and lap pool.

如果是租住,租房网站VRBO.com 是正法。虽然房租在涨,但是在玛莎葡萄园一周的房租在因弗内斯小镇可以住上一个月。有各种住宿条件供你选择,从由鸡舍改造而来的一居室到邻水小屋,再到有阁楼起居凉台和泳池的现代别墅。

Tucked in the trees across the bay, Margaret Grade and Daniel DeLong run the scattering of cabins at Manka’s Inverness Lodge (30 Callendar Way, Inverness; 415-669-1034; mankas.com; from $215) with fireside dinners on Fridays and Sundays and homemade sticky buns and yogurt delivered daily.

掩在海湾的树丛中,玛格丽特·格雷德和丹尼尔·德朗的万佳因弗内斯小屋(Manka’s Inverness Lodge )有几间稀疏的木屋,礼拜五和礼拜天有壁火晚餐,每日配送自制流糖面包卷和酸奶。(地址:因弗内斯镇,卡伦德路30号[30 Callendar Way, Inverness];电话:415-669-1034,网站:mankas.com;房价215美元起)。

The remote Point Reyes Hostel (1390 Limantour Spit Road, Point Reyes; 415-663-8811; norcalhostels.org/reyes; $24 to $120) has 56 beds, and a new wing with private rooms.

远一些的雷斯岬青年旅舍(Point Reyes Hostel)有56张床位和新建的一排独立房间(地址:雷斯岬,里曼陀沙嘴1390号[1390 Limantour Spit Road, Point Reyes];电话:415-663-8811;网站:norcalhostels.org/reyes;房价:24~120美元)。

In Marshall, the cluster of well-appointed cottages at Nick’s Cove (23240 Highway 1, Marshall; 415-663-1033; nickscove.com; from $229, two-night minimum) are somewhat overpriced for being on such a busy stretch, but those on stilts — like the ones called Ruthie’s and Al’s ($399) — directly above the bay are worth it. Dogs are welcome, too.

在马歇尔小镇,“尼克海湾”(Nick’s Cove,地址:马歇尔镇,1号高速公路23240号[23240 Highway 1, Marshall],电话:415-663-1033; 网站:nickscove.com;229美元起,限最少两晚)的木屋设施一应俱全,由于处于交通繁忙之地,所以价格略显高些,但是那些直接架空在海湾上的房子,比如叫“露丝家”(Ruthie’s)和“埃尔家”(Al’s)的(399美元),却十分物有所值。宠物狗也欢迎入住。

Where to Eat

用餐:

Sir and Star at the Olema (10000 Sir Francis Drake Boulevard; 415-663-1034; sirandstar.com) is worth the drive, but six guest rooms will open by the holidays ($200 a night).

奥莱马的士与星(Sir and Star at the Olema,10000 Sir Francis Drake Boulevard; 415-663-1034; sirandstar.com))虽稍远但值得驱车前往,不过节日期间将有6间客房开放(200美元一晚)。

The convivial Saltwater Oyster Depot (12781 Sir Francis Drake Boulevard, Inverness; 415-669-1244; saltwateroysterdepot.com) serves sustainable and local fare. Be ready for a wait. Other oyster spots include Tomales Bay Oyster Company (tomalesbayoysters.com; reservations recommended) and Hog Island Oyster Company (hogislandoysters.com).

热闹非凡的“咸水生蚝食仓”(Saltwater Oyster Depot )提供当地生态美食,但要做好准备等上一会儿(地址:因弗内斯镇,法兰西斯戴基爵士大道12781号[12781 Sir Francis Drake Boulevard, Inverness];电话:415-669-1244; 网站:saltwateroysterdepot.com)。其他吃生蚝的地方还有托马里湾生蚝公司(Tomales Bay Oyster Company,网站:tomalesbayoysters.com;建议提前预订),和猪岛生蚝公司(Hog Island Oyster Company;网站:hogislandoysters.com)。

Picnic provisions from Cowgirl Creamery at Tomales Bay Foods (80 Fourth Street, Point Reyes Station; 415-663-9335; cowgirlcreamery.com) can cost you $60 — but it’s delicious.

野餐的食材可以在托马里湾食品公司的“牛仔女乳制品”(Cowgirl Creamery at Tomales Bay Foods)公司买到,可能会花掉你60美元,但是绝对美味(地址:雷斯岬站,四街80号[80 Fourth Street, Point Reyes Station];电话:415-663-9335;网站:cowgirlcreamery.com)。

What to Do

游览

West Marin Food & Farm Tours (foodandfarmtours.com; $152 per person) is a terrific way to get to a taste of the sprawling agricultural area.

 “西马林美食与农场之旅”(网站:foodandfarmtours.com;每人152美元)是领略当地广阔的农业区的绝佳途径。

Bring your own kayak or rent from Blue Waters Kayaking (415-669-2600; bwkayak.com) with locations in Inverness and Marshall. It also runs guided sunset, bioluminescence and full-moon paddles.

可自带皮艇,或在“蓝水皮划艇”(Blue Waters Kayaking,电话: 415-669-2600;网站:bwkayak.com )租用,在因弗内斯和马歇尔均有店铺。划艇路线包括有向导领路的日落游、荧光生物游和满月游三种。

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