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带着孩子游芝加哥

更新时间:2013/12/19 14:44:54 来源:纽约时报中文网 作者:佚名

Travel Guide: Chicago for Kids
带着孩子游芝加哥

Much of Chicago is surprisingly easy to visit with children, maybe even too easy. There is an array of kid-friendly museums, shops, shows, trolleys and tours, centrally located and positioned so close that they require little transportation or street smarts. And you will get few dirty looks when someone spills something or throws a tantrum. Chicago is used to that.

对带孩子出游的家庭来说,芝加哥大部分地区都便捷得令人惊讶,甚至有点太过便捷。这里适合儿童的博物馆、商店、表演、有轨电车和旅游线路简直数不胜数。而且大多位于市中心,互相之间的距离也很近,所以几乎不需要任何什么交通换乘和地理知识。此外,如果孩子不小心泼洒了东西或忽然大发雷霆,也不会遭到当地人的白眼——芝加哥人对这些早已见怪不怪。

But so much convenience makes it tempting to stay on the well-trod, family-friendly path downtown and miss the rest of Chicago, a city of distinctive and intriguing neighborhoods. Sure, most children could spend a week happily playing beside the big steel Cloud Gate (known to locals as the Bean) in Millennium Park, this city’s front yard. But then you wouldn’t find time to get lost in the equally immersive fern room at the Garfield Park Conservatory on the West Side or the butterfly haven inside the Peggy Notebaert Nature Museum on the North Side.

但这些便利同时也让广受欢迎的市中心变得格外诱人,以至于让全家出游的旅行者忽略了芝加哥其他区域的美景,这座城市其实充满了风格鲜明的美妙社区。当然,大部分孩童都可以在巨大的“云门”(Cloud Gate,当地人叫它“豆豆”)旁边度过快乐的一周。 “云门”是座不锈钢雕塑,位于堪称芝加哥前院的千禧年公园(Millennium Park)。但那样的话,你就没有时间在城西加菲尔德植物园(Garfield Park Conservatory)同样引人的桫椤林里迷失,或者在城北佩吉诺特巴特自然博物馆(Peggy Notebaert Nature Museum)的蝴蝶保护区畅游。

You don’t have to choose. There is a way to get a look at both Big Chicago and the city of neighborhoods with even the smallest of children. Some visitors worry about safety, and Chicago’s homicide rate has drawn national attention (more people were killed in 2012 in Chicago, the nation’s third largest city, than in New York or Los Angeles). But much of the violence has taken place in a small number of neighborhoods on the South and West Sides and has been tied to gang disputes; it is not evenly spread across the city. Given some guidance and common sense, you’ll find that venturing to destinations beyond downtown can be safe and worth the train, bus or cab fare to get there. Here are some ideas culled from Chicago families about how to explore this city with children.

你不必做出非此即彼的选择。有一种办法,可以让你既欣赏芝加哥大区的美景,又享受市区的趣味社区,不管你的孩子年纪有多小。有些旅行者会担心安全问题,而芝加哥的谋杀发生率又引起了全美国的关注(全美第三大城市芝加哥2012年被谋杀人数超过了人口前两名的纽约和洛杉矶)。但大部分暴力事件都发生在城西和城南与黑社会争端有关的几个社区;这种事件不会席卷全市。只要带上旅行指南和一些常识,你会发现芝加哥市区以外的地区也可以很安全,完全值回往返那里的火车、公交或出租车的票价。以下关于带孩子游芝加哥的主意,全部都来自芝加哥本地人的建议。

Lesson Plan

课程计划

Downtown Chicago is stocked with museums that children will enjoy, and a trip to the nearby compact “campus” beside Lake Michigan makes sense for many families since it has offerings for all tastes: the Adler Planetarium (where young children can simulate their own space missions), the Shedd Aquarium (where an aquatic show includes jumping dolphins) and the Field Museum (which focuses on natural history).

芝加哥市区有大量深受儿童喜欢的博物馆,而密歇根湖(Lake Michigan)附近紧凑的博物馆园区对举家旅行的人来说尤为合适,因为它可以满足几乎所有人的需求,比如阿德勒天文台(Adler Planetarium,孩子们在那里可以体验属于自己的太空任务)、谢德水族馆(Shedd Aquarium,里面有海豚弹跳之类的海洋动物表演)和本地博物馆(Field Museum,专注于自然历史)。

Yet the lines can be long, especially at the aquarium, and the prices steep. A different option, away from the museum campus but still centrally located downtown along Michigan Avenue, is the Art Institute of Chicago, a world-class museum. Children under 14 get in free, and a $7 audio guide, known as the Lions Trail Family Tour (available in English and Spanish) will help children 10 and younger truly appreciate the works before them. On the first level of the museum’s Modern Wing, too, there is an education center and family room aimed just at the youngest visitors, with puzzles, online stories, books and blocks. Admission is free.

但这些地方可能会有许多人排队,尤其是水族馆,而且票价也很高。另一个远离博物馆园区但仍在市区密歇根大道(Michigan Avenue)附近的选项,是芝加哥艺术学院(Art Institute of Chicago),一个世界级的博物馆。4岁以下儿童免费,语音导游7美元,名叫“雄狮大道家庭之旅”(Lions Trail Family Tour,有英语和西班牙讲解)会帮助10岁以下的孩童深入理解和欣赏眼前的艺术品。博物馆的一楼是当代艺术区,里面有教育中心和家庭室,专门为最年幼的访客提供七巧板、在线故事、图书和积木。免费入场。

This city’s museums beyond the Loop are worth a try, too. Head south and west by cab or L train to the Pilsen neighborhood, a predominantly Latino area that is home to another world-class museum, the National Museum of Mexican Art.

芝加哥中心商业区(Loop,俗称卢普区)以外的博物馆也值得一试。乘坐出租车或L线轻轨向南或向西去往皮尔森(Pilsen)一带,一个主要由拉丁人口组成的社区。那里有另一个世界级的博物馆——国立墨西哥艺术博物馆(National Museum of Mexican Art)。

There are treasures to be found farther south from downtown by bus or by Metra train line in Hyde Park, the neighborhood where President Obama maintains a home. The stellar Museum of Science and Industry is there, with its trademark U-505 submarine, baby chick hatchery and a model train with enough track (1,400 feet) to captivate the youngest would-be conductors. A short cab ride (or in gentle weather, longish but pretty walk) away, you will find the DuSable Museum of African American History and the University of Chicago’s Oriental Institute, devoted to the history of the ancient Middle East, a draw especially for older children.

乘坐公交车或通勤铁路(Metra)从市区继续向南去海德公园(Hyde Park),你会发现更多的珍宝。奥巴马总统的家至今仍在这片社区。精彩的科学和工业博物馆(Museum of Science and Industry)也在这个区域。博物馆里有标志性的U-505潜水艇、小鸡孵化场,轨道足够长(1400英尺)的模型火车也轻易吸引了年轻的未来列车员。坐着出租车(或者在天气温和的时候步行走过一段略嫌漫长但风景优美的步行道),很快就会看到杜萨博非裔美国人历史博物馆(DuSable Museum of African American History)和芝加哥大学东方学院(University of Chicago’s Oriental Institute)。东方学院专注于中东古代史,适合年龄略大的孩童。

If you would rather head north from downtown, you can easily take a bus to Lincoln Park and the Peggy Notebaert Nature Museum, where bugs and mud rule and the butterfly haven is also a peace-seeking parent haven. A short walk away, the Lincoln Park Zoo is free and open every day of the year, and small children will be smitten for hours with a 20-foot-high climbing structure and carousel (there is a small fee for that). If you are in Chicago between Nov. 29 and Jan 5, on some nights you will catch the zoo festooned with about two million decorative lights at ZooLights.

如果你更愿意从市区向北,乘坐公交车很容易就能到达林肯公园(Lincoln Park)和佩吉诺特巴特自然博物馆(Peggy Notebaert Nature Museum),虫子和泥巴是那里的主旋律,蝴蝶谷也非常适合寻求宁静的父母。从那里再走一段,就是免费的林肯公园动物园(Lincoln Park Zoo),全年每日开放,那里20英尺高的攀爬架和旋转马车会让幼童们乐不思蜀(需要支付小额费用)。如果你在11月29日和1月5日之间造访芝加哥,有些晚上你会发现动物园正在举办ZooLights活动,大约200万个彩灯将整个动物园装扮得流光溢彩。

Snack Time

零食时间

Even before they know Chicago, children tend to like its staple foods. Hot dog joints are everywhere, and despite what some Chicagoans claim, you may hold your head up high and ask for ketchup if your child prefers that to the Chicago style, piled with relish, pickle spears, onions, mustard and more. Italian beef is another blissfully sloppy favorite, though you may want to hold the hot peppers for the youngest. Al’s Beef is a standby; so is Mr. Beef. There is an ever-growing fleet of restaurants (and stores and nail salons and tea shops) aimed at children. In River North, a short walk from downtown, Ed Debevic’s, with its sass-as-shtick serving staff and paper hats to take home, entertains kids in addition to stuffing them with burgers and fries. Afterward, stop down the street at Mitchell’s, once a South Shore standby, where the chocolate chip ice cream is overwhelming, especially when covered in homemade hot fudge.

在造访芝加哥之前,你的孩子们可能已经爱上了芝加哥的大众美食。这里到处都是出售热狗的小店。不管芝加哥人怎么说,只要你的孩子喜欢番茄酱胜过芝加哥风格酱料,你就可以昂着头直接向店员索要番茄酱。芝加哥风格的酱料常常堆满腌黄瓜、腌刺梨、洋葱、芥末等物。意大利牛肉是另一种深受热爱的食物,但在孩子们取食之前,你也许需要将辣椒挑出来扔掉。Al’s Beef饭店值得推荐,此外还有Mr. Beef。这里针对儿童的饭店(以及商店、美甲店和茶馆)数不胜数且数量永远在增长。在距离市区只有步行之遥的河北区(River North),Ed Debevic’s饭店除了供应汉堡和薯条以外,还有潇洒活泼的服务员和可以带回家做纪念的纸帽子来取悦年幼的顾客。之后沿着大街继续向前,就是Mitchell’s饭店。它以前是南岸(South Shore)区一个热门地点,巧克力薯条冰淇淋好吃得要死,尤其是浇上家常热糖饴的时候。

Beyond downtown, try John’s Place in Lincoln Park, which offers slightly fancier cuisine, like an adobo pork tenderloin and a grilled shrimp and quinoa salad, but also a charming magician and balloon animal artist who strolls table to table early on Sunday evenings. For dessert, go a few steps west to Sweet Mandy B’s, a bakery full of pastel frostings and endless treats with names like Dirt Cups and Double Doozies.

除了市区以外,林肯公园的John’s Place饭店也不错。那里烹饪略昂贵些的美食,比如西班牙红烧猪排、烤大虾和藜麦色拉。此外,饭店还有一个充满魅力的魔术师兼气球动物艺术家。星期天一入夜,这位艺术家就在不同的餐桌之间走来走去。至于甜点,请向西走几步到Sweet Mandy B’s面包房,里面有各种色彩的糖霜和数不清的点心,名字都是“泥土杯(Dirt Cups)”、“双倍之美(Double Doozies)”等。

For more adventuresome palates, head west of the Loop to Ukrainian Village to try fare from that part of the world. Old Lviv, a small, out-of-the-way spot at 2228 West Chicago Avenue welcomes children and will fill them with borscht and pirogi.

喜欢冒险的吃货请直奔卢普区以西的乌克兰村(Ukrainian Village),尝试来自乌克兰的美食。Old Lviv饭店面积不大,远离主干道(地址是2228 West Chicago Avenue),会以罗宋汤和东欧小酥饼来热情款待你家的孩子。

South of downtown, not far by L (or water taxi), , the long line of restaurants in Chinatown has something for everyone. Some of these places (on and around Cermak Road) are more elegant than others, but most welcome children. And it is hard to imagine a child who could turn down the dumplings at Lao Beijing, 2138 South Archer Avenue. Stroll through the shops and groceries afterward to burn off energy.

市区以南,距离L线轻轨(或水上出租车)不远的地方就是唐人街,一大串的饭店必有一款适合你。这里一部分饭店(Cermak Road一带)比其他饭店高档一些,但大部分都欢迎带孩子的顾客。此外,很难想象儿童会拒绝老北京(Lao Beijing;2138 South Archer Avenue)饭店的水饺。饭后请在商铺和杂货店之间散步,以帮助消化。

Recess

休息

Thanks to a ton of foresight from Chicago’s early planners, this city is packed with park space — much of it right beside Lake Michigan. From Grant Park, which rolls along the heart of downtown past Buckingham Fountain and to the Museum Campus, and all along a ribbon of paths that lead both south and north along the lake for miles, there is space to play.

感谢当年芝加哥在城市规划上的先见之明,现在这个城市到处都是公园,而且大部分都在密歇根湖旁边。从格兰特公园(Grant Park)开始穿过市中心,依次有白金汉喷泉(uckingham Fountain)、博物馆园区。此外湖边还有许多向北或向南的散步小道,所以供孩子休息玩耍的地方非常之多。

Not far from the Bean in Millennium Park is a grand spray pool that, on warm summer days, draws Chicago children and tourists alike to stand gleefully watching water “spit” at them from the mouths of enormous human images. Bring a towel and a change of clothes if it is wading pool weather. On cold days, a skating rink emerges not far from here. The line can be long, though, and the crowds often make the rink seem small.

距千禧年公园的“豆豆”雕塑不远,有个规模宏大的喷水池。夏天的时候,许多芝加哥孩童和游客都会欢乐地站在喷泉旁边,观看巨大人像的嘴里喷出水来。如果你造访的天气适合喷泉玩乐,请自带毛巾和换洗衣服。天冷的时候,附近会出现一个溜冰场。但会有很多人排队,人群也会让溜冰场顿时变小。

Walk or, during the summer, take a trolley to Navy Pier, where a Ferris wheel emerges beside the lake. Much of Navy Pier is dizzyingly crammed with out-of-town visitors, overwhelming smells of fast food and cinnamon-sugar-roasted nuts, and corridors jammed with other strollers, but the Children’s Museum is worth a stop — and then a fast escape. Rent a family-sized bicycle (the kids can ride and never touch the pedals if they so choose) on the Pier, then pedal along the lake for the view.

漫步走到海军码头(Navy Pier),夏天的时候还可以推辆儿童车。湖水旁边,有个巨大的摩天轮。码头的大部分地区都挤满令人头晕目眩的外地游客,空气中飘扬着快餐和月桂糖烤坚果的浓烈香味,走道里还挤着其他婴儿车。但儿童博物馆(Children’s Museum)的确值得一看,但看完之后请扭头就走。在码头上租一辆家庭型自行车(如果需要的话,孩子们可以选择坐在车上但双脚永远不会触到踏板),然后沿着湖边骑行观景。

Beyond downtown, try the Garfield Park Conservatory, an exquisite building opened in 1908 on the Far West Side. A Green Line L train or cab will carry you through tougher-looking neighborhoods to within a few steps of the conservatory, and especially on dreary winter days, it will be well worth it. A waft of warm, humid air and the smell of plants will greet you. Children can roam the rooms learning about plants, and searching for items on scavenger hunts. Special projects for youngsters, including plantings, take place many weekends in a children’s garden area. Admission is free, though a donation is requested during special events.

市区以外,请尝试加菲尔德植物园(Garfield Park Conservatory),这是远西区(Far West Side)一座1908建成的古雅建筑。乘坐绿色的L线轻轨或出租车,就会载你穿过面目狰狞的街区,到达距温室只有几步远的地方。在冷峻的冬日,坐车尤其合算。迎接你的,是温柔湿热的暖风和绿色植物的清香。孩子们可以在各个房间漫步,学习辨认植物,并在寻宝游戏中寻找奖品。在儿童园艺区,许多周末都有针对孩童的特别活动,比如种花种树。免费入场,但参加特别活动需要一定数额的捐赠。

Another park worth seeing: Oz Park, north of downtown near Lincoln and Webster Avenues, has playground equipment unmatched by many cities. Your children can search for statues of Dorothy and the others in this expansive neighborhood park.

另一个值得造访的公园是绿野仙踪公园(Oz Park)。它位于市区以北,靠近林肯公园和Webster Avenues。那里游乐场的设施比许多城市的要好得多。在这座面积庞大的街区公园里,孩子们可以寻找电影《绿野仙踪》女主角桃萝西(Dorothy)和其他人物的雕像。

CHEAT SHEET

快速参考

Where to Set Up Base

到哪里扎营

If you’re visiting with children, it’s simplest to stay downtown or in the neighborhoods close to it, like Streeterville, the South Loop or River North. Hotels are not cheap, but deals can be found. From the center of town, the city’s L train and bus system, plus a separate Metra train system, can get you nearly anywhere you want to go. Taxis are abundant downtown, which is not the case elsewhere, though a call or text can summon one.

如果你带孩子出游,最简单的住宿方案是住在市区或市区周边,比如Streeterville、南卢普区(South Loop)或河北区。酒店价格很高,但总能找到促销和折扣活动。从市中心出发,L线轻轨、公交系统加再上一条独立的通勤铁路,可以到达几乎所有想去的地方。市区的出租车也很多,这与其他城市也大不相同。当然也可以通过电话或短信来叫车。

How to Feed Picky Eaters

如何喂养口味挑剔的游客

This city is neither too fancy nor too proud to be full of plain food for children with sensitive taste buds. Many fine restaurants offer something in the bland genre — noodles with butter, mac and cheese, mini-burgers. Chicago’s beloved deep dish pizza may not instantly come to mind as routine fare for fussy eaters, but it often bridges the gap between adults seeking something interesting and kids who steer away from anything that does not involve cheese or starch. At Lou Malnati’s, with locations all over downtown and beyond, even young pizza critics cannot turn down the three-cheese bread or the chocolate chip pizza, which is really a cookie smothered in vanilla bean ice cream.

这座城市到处都有平民美食来款待味蕾敏感的孩童,既不奢华也不骄矜。许多高档饭店都供应大众食物,比如加了黄油的面条、巨无霸汉堡加奶酪、迷你汉堡等。对挑剔的食客来说,芝加哥人热爱的深盘披萨也许不是第一选择。但它能在寻找有趣美食的成年人和拒绝不含奶酪及淀粉的儿童之间迅速搭起一座桥梁。Lou Malnati’s饭店在市中心和其他地方有多家分店。即使是年轻的披萨美食家也无法拒绝含有三层奶酪的面包或加了巧克力碎的披萨饼——后者本质上是一枚饼干被香草兰豆冰淇淋淹没以后的模样。

Where to Go for a Pit Stop

到哪里休息充电

Near the busiest part of Chicago’s Loop, slip inside the Chicago Cultural Center, just off Michigan Avenue on Randolph Street, for a moment of calm. Lots of people visit here, but the space is large, more than a century old, and it feels like an escape. And it’s free. This was once the city’s main public library, and there are tours, exhibits, speeches and family activities here. Or you can just rest a while.

在芝加哥最繁忙卢普区附近,溜进位于Michigan Avenue和Randolph Street交叉口的芝加哥文化中心(Chicago Cultural Center),以寻求片刻的宁静。这里游客很多,但因为空间大,有着一百多年的历史,所以感觉非常清净非常放松。免费入场。这里曾是芝加哥一个大型公共图书馆所在地,目前有各种参观线路、展览、演讲和家庭活动。你也可以什么也不做,只享受休息。

Where to Find a Potty

到哪里上厕所

Midwesterners are nothing if not practical, and bathrooms are not that hard to find. An apologetic nod and a toddler in tow will generally get you into restaurant bathrooms. Hotels and department stores work well, some with clean but old-fashioned powder rooms where you can take your time. A favorite of mine: inside the old Marshall Field’s flagship store — now Macy’s — at State and Randolph Streets. Out in the neighborhoods, most chain stores and large grocery stores have restrooms you and your troop can slip into without guilt or notice.

美国中西部的人民非常实在,所以寻找卫生间并不是一件难事。充满歉意的点头和拖在手里的一个儿童,会让你轻松进入餐馆的卫生间。这个策略在酒店和百货公司也很管用,有些里面还有整洁的老式化妆间,供你慢慢放松休整。我最喜欢的一个地方马歇尔菲兹百货公司(Marshall Field,现在变成了梅西百货)古老的旗舰店,地址是State Street和Randolph Street两条街的交叉口。在许多居民区,大部分连锁店和大型杂货店里都有卫生间,你和家人可以在毫无愧疚并无人注意的情况下自由出入。

Which Must-Sees to Miss

哪些必游景点可以忽略

The Magnificent Mile is a dazzling commercial stretch along North Michigan Avenue, and its cheery holiday lights enchant young children. But it is also often packed with tourists, shoppers and people seeking petition signatures and donations to causes. Just walking as a family can get complicated. And the high-end shops, including some for toys and kids’ clothes, may set off whining or leave your purse magnificently lighter.

“华丽英里”(Magnificent Mile)是北密歇根大道(North Michigan Avenue)上一个漂亮的商业区,欢乐的节庆彩灯很能吸引儿童。但那里总是挤满游客、购物者和寻求请愿签名或慈善捐赠的人士。在这里,光是全家一起散步都是一件难事。此外,包括玩具店在内的大量高档商店总是热情招徕,你钱包的尺寸一不小心就会大规模缩水。

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