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Cosmetic Surgery for a Pet Fish? In Asia, This One Is King of the Tank

Eugene Ng jabbed a pudgy finger against the side of the glass tank, like a predator singling out his unlucky target.

尤金·黄(Eugene Ng)用他短粗的手指戳了戳玻璃缸的侧面,像一个捕食者在挑出倒霉的猎物。

“That fish’s eye is looking a little droopy,” said Mr. Ng, pointing to a fish with large metallic gold scales swimming happily among its companions.


Minutes later, the fish was knocked out and getting an eyelift, a procedure that has become standard practice in Mr. Ng’s job as one of the premier cosmetic surgeons for Asian arowana fish here in Singapore. Using a pair of forceps, Mr. Ng — known to his clients as Dr. Ark, after the pet fish store that he also runs — worked quickly, loosening the tissue behind the fish’s eye and pushing the eyeball up into the socket.


“I know some people think it’s cruel to the fish,” said Mr. Ng, lifting his sedated patient with one hand to show off its newly straightened eye. “But really I’m doing it a favor. Because now the fish looks better and its owner will love it even more.”


The idea of cosmetic surgery for a fish may sound extreme. But the Asian arowana is not your average pet store fish. Known as the long yu, or “dragon fish” in Chinese, it reigns as one of the world’s most expensive aquarium fish, selling for anywhere from a few hundred dollars to tens of thousands of dollars.


“In Singapore, if you have an arowana, that means you have status,” said Kenny Lim, a local hobbyist who has invested an estimated $600,000 over eight years into building up his aquatic menagerie, which includes 13 arowana and more than 100 stingrays. “It’s a sign of wealth.”

“在新加坡,如果你有一条龙鱼,就意味着你有地位,”肯尼·林(Kenny Lim)说。他是新加坡当地一名龙鱼爱好者,在八年的时间内曾投入将近60万美元打造自己的生态水族箱,养了13条龙鱼和100多条魔鬼鱼。“这是财富的象征。”

While prices of the fish saw a boom and a bit of a bust earlier this decade, the arowana remains a popular luxury accessory across Asia. Wealthy Chinese businessmen in particular prize the fish — with its large glimmering scales, sage-like whiskers and aggressive personality — for its resemblance to the mythical Chinese dragon.


Adding to the allure are the often-repeated tales of arowana that sacrifice their lives by jumping out of tanks to warn owners about a bad business investment or other potential dangers.


For those reasons, aficionados call the arowana the king of the fish, emperor of the tank, a dragon among mere mortals.


纽约时报中英文网 http://www.qqenglish.com

“For Chinese, keeping fish is about bringing good luck and wealth, and the Asian arowana are especially lucky,” said Kenny Yap, the executive chairman of Qian Hu Fish, one of the top arowana breeders in Singapore.

“对中国人来说,养鱼是为了能带来好运和财富,而亚洲龙鱼尤其能带来好运,”新加坡顶级龙鱼养殖者之一——仟湖渔业集团的执行主席叶金利(Kenny Yap)说。

“In the West, dragons are evil monsters,” added Mr. Yap, or Kenny the Fish, as he prefers to be called. “But in Chinese culture, dragons are divine.”

“在西方,龙是邪恶的怪兽,”喜欢别人管他叫“金利鱼”(Kenny the Fish)的叶金利说。“但是在中华文化中,龙是神圣的。”

Perhaps nowhere is the obsession more apparent than here in this tropical city-state, a hub of the global ornamental fish trade and home to a thriving network of breeders and hobbyists dedicated to the Asian arowana (not to be confused with the silver arowana, its South American cousin).


The fish has become so deeply ingrained as a status symbol that it was even featured in the latest installment of Kevin Kwan’s “Crazy Rich Asians,” a popular series of novels about the lives of Singapore’s elite, in the form of a $250,000 super red arowana named Valentino.

龙鱼作为地位象征的形象如此根深蒂固,以至于在关凯文(Kevin Kwan)讲述新加坡精英人士生活的畅销系列小说《疯狂的亚洲富人》(Crazy Rich Asians)的最新一部中都有呈现,书中有一条名叫瓦伦迪诺(Valentino)的超级红龙鱼价值25万美元。

“Singaporeans are crazy about the fish,” said Emily Voigt, the author of “The Dragon Behind the Glass,” a rollicking account of her transcontinental journey into the murky world of the arowana.

“新加坡人对鱼非常狂热,”《玻璃缸里的龙》的作者艾米丽·福格特(Emily Voigt)说,该书生动地描述了她走进龙鱼黑暗世界的洲际旅行。

At one point, Ms. Voigt said, the global craze for the fish reached such a frenzy that even in Singapore, where the crime rate is so low that a stolen delivery parcel makes headlines, there were four arowana heists in one week. During one of the robberies, the thief punched an elderly woman as he ran away with her fish in a sloshing bucket.


In a separate episode, a Singaporean man was sentenced to three years in prison and 12 strokes of the cane for trying to steal arowana from a shop.


“You think of pet fish as being an innocent thing,” Ms. Voigt said. “But I didn’t expect to find myself confronting this dark underbelly.”

纽约时报中英文网 http://www.qqenglish.com/


The prominence of the Asian arowana is a sharp reversal in fortune for a fish that half a century ago was considered by locals in its natural swamp habitat of Borneo and Indonesia to be a common food fish — and a rather bony and tasteless one at that.


Experts say the turning point came in 1975, when the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora, signed by 183 countries, banned the fish from international trade. By classifying it as a rare species, some say, the treaty elevated its status as a luxury item.

专家们表示,龙鱼命运的转折点出现在1975年。当年,在183个国家签署的《濒危野生动植物种国际贸易公约》(Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora)中,龙鱼被列入国际贸易禁运名单。有人说,该公约将龙鱼归入稀有物种,从而提高了它的地位,让它成了一种奢侈品。

After the ban, a booming black market for arowana emerged. Smuggled arowana were turning up in countries around Asia and later in the United States, where it is still banned. The overwhelming demand had a devastating effect on the wild population of arowana. So starting in the late 1980s, restrictions were loosened to allow trade of farm-bred arowana whose parents were also born in captivity.


While the wild arowana never recovered, trade in captive-bred arowana flourished, reaching a peak in the 2000s as buyers in mainland China jumped into the game.


Breeders used DNA technology to pinpoint characteristics in a bid to create a “perfect” fish: straight feelers, bright eyes, large and round fins and tails and shimmering red scales. Neon pink tanning lights became a common feature in tanks to enhance the fish’s reddish hue.


“It’s like a beauty pageant,” said Alex Chang, the head of research and development at Qian Hu Fish, who was caught several years ago attempting to smuggle two suitcases full of endangered fish worth over $180,000 into Australia. “The fish cannot be fat. It must look strong and have personality. It must swim confidently and be firm, stern and fierce. It cannot be timid.”

“就像选美大赛,”仟湖养鱼场的研发主管亚历克斯·张(Alex Chang)说。几年前,他曾被查获试图往澳大利亚走私两箱价值逾18万美元的濒危鱼类。“这种鱼不能胖。必须看起来强壮、有个性。游起来必须充满自信、坚定、执着、勇猛。不能胆小。”

But around 2012, the price of arowana crashed as breeding farms flooded the market. While prices have somewhat bounced back in recent years, big farms like Qian Hu have begun breeding other species.


Despite the sharp dip in prices, the arowana remains an aspirational luxury good and a point of obsession for many Singaporeans.


As a young boy growing up in Singapore, Nicholas Chia always dreamed about having an arowana. Then, last year, he finally bought his first one. Since then, he has acquired five more. He keeps his prized fish in six large tanks that take up a third of his living room.

尼古拉斯·贾(Nicholas Chia)是在新加坡长大的,他一直梦想拥有一条龙鱼。去年,他终于买了第一条。从那以后,他又买了五条。他把这些宝贵的鱼放在六个大水箱里,它们占了他客厅面积的三分之一。

“Sometimes my wife complains that I neglect the children because of the fish,” said Mr. Chia, a 30-year-old software entrepreneur. “To a certain extent, yes, I guess that’s true.”




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