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痴迷于大不列颠的意大利小镇

更新时间:2018/12/20 21:08:19 来源:纽约时报中文网 作者:佚名

The Italian town obsessed with Great Britain
痴迷于大不列颠的意大利小镇

Had it not been for the sunny sky, I could have sworn that I was in Great Britain.

要不是天空阳光明媚,我以为我还在英国。

The high street was teeming with people, Union Jack flags were flapping in the wind, a slight aroma of fried cod tinged the air and the queens were waving to their starstruck subjects – Queen Elizabeth II from a gleaming car and her great-great-grandmother Victoria from underneath a lacy black parasol.

商业街上人山人海,英国国旗迎风飘扬,一丝油炸鳕鱼的香味弥漫在空中,女王向粉丝们挥手致意——女王伊丽莎白二世坐在闪闪发亮的汽车里,她的曾曾曾祖母女王维多利亚打着黑色蕾丝阳伞也在一旁。

The time and space continuum seemed to have been broken, thus bringing two of the most formidable British queens together in the same, rather unexpected place. For instead of London, I was in a small Northern Italian town called Schio (pronounced 'ski-o').

时间和空间的连续性似乎被打破了,两位最厉害的英国女王同时出现,还是在一个意想不到的地方。这里不是伦敦,我正身处意大利北部一个名为斯基奥的小镇。

This was British Day Schio – a weekend extravaganza dedicated to Great Britain during which the citizens of Schio declare themselves British. They dress up as British characters from past and modern times and even publish a newspaper (the headline of which this year proudly stated: La Citta' Piu' Britannica d'Italia!, ‘The Most British City in Italy!’).

这是斯基奥英国日(British Day Schio),一个向大不列颠致敬的周末狂欢。这两天斯基奥人会称自己是英国人,打扮成历史上和当代的英国人物,甚至出版一份报纸(今年的标题骄傲地写着:意大利最英国的城市! (La Citta' Piu' Britannica d'Italia!))。

“Schio has always been known as ‘the Manchester of Italy’,” said Claudio Canova, 51, a digital marketing specialist who conceived the idea for British Day Schio six years ago.

51岁的卡诺瓦(Claudio Canova)从事数字营销,六年前有了举办斯基奥英国日的想法。他说:“斯基奥一直是‘意大利的曼彻斯特’。”

The reason behind Schio's moniker lies in the town's industrial history. Just like Manchester, Schio was once a major wool and textile production centre.

斯基奥的这个称号源于小镇的工业史。就像曼彻斯特一样,斯基奥曾经也是一个主要的羊毛和纺织品生产中心。

New wool-spinning and weaving technologies imported from England by the Venetian patrician Nicolò Tron led to the creation in 1718 of an important wool mill in Schio. Tron was an entrepreneur, friend of British mathematician Isaac Newton and former ambassador of the Republic of Venice to the court of King George I. His attempts to introduce the English know-how to Venice were rebuffed by the Republic’s influential textile corporations. So, Tron headed to Schio in the northern confines of the Republic. The town was a centuries-old wool-producing centre with cheap skilled labour, abundant raw materials and a license given to it by the Republic of Venice in 1701 to manufacture fine textiles independently of Venice’s textile corporations. He employed nine English technicians who relocated to Schio with their families to work in Tron’s new wool mill.

1718年,威尼斯贵族特隆(Nicolò Tron)从英格兰引进新的羊毛纺纱和织造技术,在斯基奥建了一个重要的毛纺厂。特隆是一位企业家,和英国数学家牛顿以及英王乔治一世的前威尼斯共和国大使都是朋友。他尝试向威尼斯介绍英国的经验技术,却被各大有影响力的纺织公司拒之门外。所以,特隆转而去了北部边界的斯基奥,一个有数百年历史的羊毛生产中心,拥有廉价的熟练工人和丰富的原材料 城市。,他在1701年获得了国家许可,开始自行生产独立于威尼斯纺织公司的精美纺织品。他雇了九位英国工人,他们举家搬到了斯基奥,在特隆的新羊毛厂工作。

Several decades later, Tron brought another English invention to the small Italian town: the flying shuttle.

几十年后,特隆又把另一项英国发明带到了这个意大利小镇:飞梭。

Invented by Lancashire-born machinist John Kay, the flying shuttle significantly sped up the weaving process, which increased productivity and reduced costs. It could also be mechanised, paving the way for the automatic looms.

英国兰开夏郡的机械师约翰·凯(John Kay)发明了飞梭,大大加快了纺织速度,既提高了生产效率又降低了成本,飞梭还可以被机械化生产,为自动织机奠定了基础。

Schio soon became synonymous with high-quality textiles, which were exported all over Europe and beyond.

斯基奥很快成为高品质纺织品的代名词,产品出口到整个欧洲以及世界各地。

In the 19th Century, father-and-son duo Francesco and Alessandro Rossi (no relation to me) took Schio's textile production to new heights. Schio’s Fabbrica Alta, built in 1862 by Alessandro, who was inspired by the vertical woollen mills found in Manchester and throughout Great Britain, was the largest industrial plant in 19th-Century Italy. Today it is considered the imposing symbol of Italy's first industrial revolution.

19世纪时,罗西父子(Francesco Rossi和Alessandro Rossi,与我这个罗西无关)把斯基奥的纺织生产推向了新高度。曼彻斯特及大不列颠各处高大的毛纺厂也启发了小罗西,他于1862年在斯基奥修建了阿尔塔工厂(Fabbrica Alta),是19世纪意大利最大的工厂。今天它是意大利第一次工业革命的重要标志。

Although now permanently closed, the Fabbrica Alta, with its tall body symmetrically dotted with 330 windows, is a testament to the close technological connection Schio has had with Manchester throughout the centuries, despite being almost 2,000km away.

阿尔塔工厂高大的厂房上有330扇均匀排列的窗户,虽然厂房已经永久关闭,却见证了斯基奥和曼彻斯特几百年来在技术上的紧密联系,尽管二者相距近2000公里。

“Add to this Schio's rainy weather and the grumpy character of its citizens, and you have the most British town in Italy,” Canova said.

“加上斯基奥多雨的天气和市民们暴躁的性格,这里绝对是意大利最英国的城镇。”卡诺瓦说。

British Day Schio evolved from SchioLife, a British rock-themed music festival spearheaded by Canova. “Since 2007, we have been organising concerts and had the opportunity to get in touch with many legendary musicians like Steve Hackett from Genesis, Sir Gary Brooker of Procol Harum, Rick Wakeman [the keyboardist of Yes] and Ian Anderson from Jethro Tull.”

斯基奥英国日由斯基奥生活节(SchioLife)演化而来,是一个由卡诺瓦主导的以英国摇滚为主题的音乐节。“我们从2007年开始就一直在举办音乐会,有机会接触了很多传奇的音乐人,例如创世纪乐团(Genesis)的哈克特(Steve Hackett),普洛柯哈伦乐队(Procol Harum)的布鲁克爵士(Gary Brooker),是乐队(Yes)的键盘手威克曼(Rick Wakeman),和杰叟罗图乐队(Jethro Tull)的安德森(Ian Anderson)。”

“I realised that we live in the most British town of Italy and then we had to do something to highlight these characteristics,” Canova continued. “I think that after six years we have succeeded.”

“我们住在意大利最英国的小镇,得做些什么来强化这些特征”,卡诺瓦继续说:“经过六年的努力,我认为我们已经成功了。”

Under the slogan of ‘Spicy. Independent. Original.’ – which according to Canova reflects the character of the citizens of Schio – British Day Schio has been enjoying an ever-increasing popularity since its inception. Held on the second weekend of October, the festival attracted more than 30,000 people in 2017. That year paid tribute to Oasis; the 2018 edition was in homage to Peter Gabriel.

以“刺激·独立·原创”为口号——卡诺瓦说这反映了斯基奥市民的性格——斯基奥英国日自成立以来人气越来越旺。节日定在十月的第二个周末,2017年吸引了3万多人参加。2017年是向绿洲乐队(Oasis)致敬,2018年则是向音乐人盖布瑞尔(Peter Gabriel)。

“We choose the artists to whom we dedicate British Day Schio each year based on the social values they transmit. Peter Gabriel is one of the champions for peace in the world and his message is important for everyone. The first three editions of the festival were dedicated, respectively, to The Beatles, The Phantom of the Opera and Pink Floyd,” Canova explained.

“每年我们都会根据艺术家们所传达的社会价值来选择一位。盖布瑞尔是世界和平人士,他所传递的信息对每个人来说都很重要。头三年的节日则分别纪念了披头士乐队(The Beatles),《歌剧魅影》(The Phantom of the Opera)和平克·弗洛伊德乐队(Pink Floyd)。”卡瓦诺说。

“Who are you going to pay homage to next year?” I asked, only too eager to throw some names in the hat. You know, the best of British. Like Pet Shop Boys, Duran Duran, Depeche Mode…

“下一年致敬谁?”我问道,心急地想了几个名字,都是英国顶级的,像宠物店男孩组合(Pet Shop Boys)、杜兰杜兰乐队(Duran Duran)、赶时髦乐团(Depeche Mode)等等。

Instead, the 2019 festival will be dedicated to Alessandro Rossi as it will be 200 years since his birth.

然而,2019年的节日将会纪念小罗西,因为是他诞辰200周年。

I arrived in Schio in the early afternoon on the day of the festival this past October. The central streets of the town were lined with grand buildings in shades of ochre, toffee and burnt orange. Ladies and gents strolled the pavements dressed in their best British-inspired costumes.

我是在今年十月节日那天下午早些时候来到斯基奥的,中央街道两旁排列着黄褐色、焦糖色和深橙色的宏伟建筑,男男女女都穿着他们最英式的衣服走在人行道上。

The window displays of the local shops sported copious amounts of British paraphernalia: biscuit tins in the Union Jack colours, British stamps, leaflets for the London Eye, postcards of the Queen, little flags with Harry and Meghan's happy faces. Throughout town, famous locations like Abbey Road and Carnaby Street had been recreated. Even the local gelateria had slapped a large sign saying ‘Ice Cream’ on its window.

商店橱窗里展示着丰富的英国物品:与英国国旗同色的饼干盒、英国邮票、伦敦眼的宣传单、女王的明信片、印着英国王子哈利和梅根幸福面孔的小旗。整个城镇,诸如艾比路和卡纳比街这样著名的地方被装饰一新。甚至连意式雪糕店也在窗户上打出巨幅标志,用英文写着“冰淇淋”。

“From the youngest to the oldest, the citizens of Schio love this event,” Canova told me. “British Day Schio attracts thousands of people, dressed up in British-style attire or as famous characters such as Harry Potter, James Bond, Dr Who, Sherlock Holmes. They talk in English on the streets as if it were normal. They enter the shops and ask for things in English, greet people with ‘Hi!’, ‘Hello!’, and ‘Good morning!’.”

“斯基奥老老少少都喜欢这个活动,”卡诺瓦告诉我:“斯基奥英国日吸引了成千上万人参加,大家穿着英式服装,或者打扮成哈利·波特(Harry Potter)、007(James Bond)、神秘博士(Dr Who)或是福尔摩斯(Sherlock Holmes)一类的著名人物。他们在街上用英语交谈,仿佛稀松平常。走进商店都是用英语询问,打招呼问好也是英语 。

And it is all done without irony – a genuine expression both of an appreciation for Great Britain and Schio's own industrial past.

没有讽刺意味,完全是对大不列颠和斯基奥自身工业过往的真诚赞颂。

“What will happen with British Day Schio after Brexit? Will you continue organising it?” I asked Canova.

“英国脱欧之后呢?你还会继续组织吗?”我问卡诺瓦。

“Certamente!” he replied. “Of course, we will continue to organise it. Indeed, with even bigger resolve.”

“绝对会!”,他回答道。“我们当然会继续组织,而且更加坚定。”

Manchester doesn’t know about British Day Schio yet. Canova’s plan is to contact the British city in the near future and build a relationship based on the historical link between the two cities.

曼彻斯特还不知道有这个节日。卡诺瓦计划在不久的将来与曼彻斯特取得联系,然后借着两个城市的历史联系建立关系。

“Will Brexit change how Schio feels about Britain?” I pressed.

“英国脱欧会改变斯基奥对英国的看法吗?”我进一步问道。

“No, absolutely no,” he replied earnestly. “I think that the British citizens are historically always ahead compared to the rest of Europe and perhaps the world. I believe that the British people only want to defend their state from economic [and] financial invasions and not from the European citizens.”

“不,绝对不会,”他急切地回答。“我认为英国人民在历史上总是领先于欧洲其他地区,甚至是全世界。我相信他们只是想使国家免受经济和金融入侵,而不是在防范欧洲人民。”

Later that day, I headed to the large terrace in front of Schio's St Pietro Cathedral. From there I could see the main piazza below me filled with hundreds of people waiting for the festival’s centrepiece – the British Day Schio parade – to begin. Beyond the rooftops, I could see the cragged peaks of the Little Dolomites.

那天晚些时候,我来到斯基奥圣彼得大教堂前的大露台。从那里可以看见下方的主广场上挤了好几百人,他们在等待节日的重头戏——斯基奥英国日游行。越过房顶,我看到小多洛米蒂山脉陡峭的山巅。

A rousing rendition of Scotland the Brave filled the air. There was nothing to betray that the musicians – dressed in kilts and skilfully handling their bagpipes – were not from Scotland but from the nearby Italian city of Vicenza. A long procession of historic British cars followed. They were beautiful and shiny, representing the British technological and design advances through the decades.

振奋人心的《苏格兰勇士》进行曲奏响,演奏者们身穿苏格兰短裙,熟练地吹奏着苏格兰风笛,根本看不出来不是苏格兰人,可其实是来自附近的意大利城市维琴察。后面是长长一列以前的英国汽车,车型漂亮车身发亮,代表了英国几十年来在技术和设计上的进步。

Suddenly the crowd surged forward, eager to see something that was beyond my line of sight. Straining my neck, I glimpsed a gleaming open-top vehicle surrounded by four guards with bearskin hats.

突然,人群涌向前方,急着去看什么东西,但我看不到。我伸长了脖子瞥见一辆闪闪发光的敞篷车,由四名带着熊皮帽子的守卫围住。

“It's the Queen!” I shouted in delight.

“是女王!”我高兴地喊了出来。

Resplendent and with a posy in hand, 'Queen Elizabeth II' was taking in the adoration of the crowd, bestowing upon us one of her trademark waves every now and then.

“女王伊丽莎白二世”容光焕发手持花束,接受人群的敬仰,时不时还标志性地挥挥手。

You had to hand it to the organisers of British Day Schio. They’d managed to make even me – a Bulgarian totally uninterested in all things royal – giddy with excitement at the sight of the Queen.

这一切都要归功于斯基奥英国日的组织者。他们甚至让我——一个完全不关心皇室的保加利亚人,看到女王时也兴奋得头晕目眩。

While there is no shortage of festivals in Italy, British Day Schio is in a league of its own. Residents had adopted little bits and pieces of British culture and somehow managed to put them together in a red, white and blue puzzle held together by the pride in their own Italian town and its industrial history.

意大利的节日可不少,但斯基奥英国日却独树一帜。小镇居民汲取了一些英国文化碎片,将他们拼凑起来,以家乡自豪感和工业历史为粘合剂,创作成一幅红白蓝色的英国拼图。

Most remarkably, the citizens of Schio had managed to master the notoriously hard-to-grasp British humour. You just had to look at the British Day Schio's newspaper where, in small red letters, it said: “The parade is to be held even in good weather!”.

最厉害的是,斯基奥人民已经掌握了出名难懂的英式幽默。看看斯基奥英国日的报纸就知道,上面一行红色小写着:“即使天气好游行也要举行!”

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