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红毯之外,一个你从未见过的Met Gala

A Rare View of the Met Gala
红毯之外,一个你从未见过的Met Gala

Sometime before sunset, as a crowd of spectators watched from behind barricades across the street, six shirtless musclebound men hoisted a velvet divan onto their shoulders. Lady Gaga had performed a kind of high-art striptease, doffing gown after gown until she reached her fourth and final outfit, but already the next performance was set to begin.

日暮之前某刻,在街对面隔着路障的人群注视下,六名赤裸上身、肌肉发达的男人肩扛着一张绒面沙发床。Lady Gaga表演了某种高雅艺术版的脱衣舞,脱掉一件又一件长裙,直到她的第四件、也是最后一身装扮,而下一场表演已然即将登场。

On the couch reclined what appeared to be a golden idol, regal in repose. It was, in a way: Billy Porter, an actor who understands the opportunity afforded by an occasion — thus the entourage.

斜躺在沙发上的,似乎是尊金色的神像——一位安详的君王。从某些方面讲,的确是:那是比利·波特(Billy Porter),一个真正理解场合所赋予的机会的演员——所以有随从跟着。

The hunks lowered him to the ground, and he stepped off, spread his golden wings and posed for the crowd, which roared. Then he ascended the steps of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, carpeted in pink for the occasion, and plunged into the Met Gala, the fashion industry’s biggest party of the year.

猛男们将沙发放低让他走下来,他展开金色的双翼,向众人摆起姿势,引得阵阵欢呼。随后,他登上了纽约大都会艺术博物馆的台阶——上面专为此次活动铺设了桃红色地毯——一头扎进了Met Gala,时尚行业年度最大的盛会。

The Met Gala is the annual fund-raiser for the Met’s Costume Institute, and tied to its spring exhibition. This year’s, “Camp: Notes on Fashion,” celebrates the pervasive influence of camp. It was up to the evening's co-chairs — besides Gaga, Anna Wintour of Vogue, Alessandro Michele of Gucci, Serena Williams and Harry Styles — and their invited guests to make a case for the theme.

Met Gala是大都会时装学院的年度筹款活动,与春季时装展相关联。今年的主题定为“坎普:时尚札记”(Camp: Notes on Fashion),以此纪念坎普的广泛影响。至于这个主题够不够格,就要看当晚的联席主席——除Gaga之外还有《Vogue》杂志主编安娜·温图尔(Anna Wintour)、古驰(Gucci)的亚历山德罗·米凯莱(Alessandro Michele)、塞雷娜·威廉姆斯(Serena Williams)和哈利·斯泰尔斯(Harry Styles)——及他们邀请的嘉宾的了。

“The thing that I love is that this brings dignity back to the form,” Mr. Porter said. “Flamboyance, camp — most of the time, it’s a pejorative. This is a reclamation.”

“我欣赏的是这让这种形式恢复了尊严,”波特说。“花哨炫耀、坎普——多数时候,这是贬义词。而这是一次正名。”

He had reclaimed camp for himself in a look by the Blonds, a New York label, which sprang, Mr. Porter said, “out of Ryan Murphy saying to me I should do the entire five-outfit montage from ‘Mahogany.’” He’d settled for one.

他自己则在用纽约品牌Blonds为坎普正名。波特说这个造型始于“莱恩·墨菲(Ryan Murphy)跟我说,你应该把《桃花心木》(Mahogany)里的五个造型全都来一遍”。他最后选了一个。

Camp is tricky for fashion, which often is camp without understanding itself to be. Camp celebrates artifice and artificiality, flamboyance and theatricality, but can quickly deflate if forced.

就时尚而言,坎普是不好拿捏的,往往是有坎普的人自己并无知觉。它推崇的是艺术技巧和夸张造作、华丽炫耀和戏剧性,但一旦有意而为就没了效果。

It proved no less challenging for many of the guests, who came dressed as extravagant versions of themselves. “What is camp?” asked Celine Dion, who arrived in a beaded curtain of fringe by Oscar de la Renta and a peacock-feather headdress. “I got very confused.”

结果证明,它对现场许多嘉宾的挑战一点也不小,尽管他们纷纷以奢华版的自己亮相。“究竟什么是坎普?”席琳·迪翁(Celine Dion)问道,她穿着一身Oscar de la Renta的流苏坠株帘和一件孔雀羽毛头饰抵达现场。“我可是很困惑。”

She paused and leaned in conspiratorially. “And I was not the only one.”

她停顿了一下,然后狡黠地凑上前来。“而且不止我一个。”

纽约时报中英文网 http://www.qqenglish.com/

Is it camp to be a cheeseburger, as Katy Perry was, dressed as a crystal-encrusted sandwich? (A costume change: She had entered as a chandelier, fully lit.) No, just potentially dangerous. “You’re a slider? Let me eat you!” the rising rapper Lizzo cried with delight when the two met near the entrance. “I hope you’re vegan.”

坎普是个奶酪汉堡吗,就像凯蒂·佩里(Katy Perry)那样,身着布满水晶的“汉堡装”?(换装了:她穿成了全身点亮的枝形吊灯。)没事,只是有点安全隐患而已。“你是个小三明治吗?我来把你吃掉!”在入口附近碰到的说唱新星Lizzo欣喜地喊道。“希望你是纯素的。”

“This is an Impossible Burger,” a meatless alternative, Ms. Perry replied.

“这是只‘不可能汉堡’(Impossible Burger),”一个不含肉的替代品,佩里答道。

Is it camp to carry around a replica of your own head, as Jared Leto did? Not really, just creepy, though it makes for good selfies. Derek Blasberg took one with both Letos.

坎普是到处举着自己头颅的复制品么,就像杰瑞德·莱托(Jared Leto)那样?不见得,太毛骨悚然了,虽然用来自拍挺不错的。德里克·布拉斯伯格(Derek Blasberg)就和两个莱托拍了一张。

Is it camp to be Joan Collins? We have a winner. Of course it is, and “of course” the theme resonated with her, said Ms. Collins, wafting through the Met’s Petrie sculpture court in white feathers and radzimir by Valentino.

坎普是琼·柯林斯(Joan Collins)么?获胜者揭晓了。当然是了,她“当然”和这个主题有共鸣,柯林斯说,她身着Valentino的白羽毛和拉西米尔丝绸装款款走过大都会的佩特里雕塑园。

Ms. Collins, especially in her incarnation as Alexis Carrington of “Dynasty,” is a camp legend, invoked by other guests as a North Star — “These are some Alexis Carrington shoulders,” Samantha Barry, the editor of Glamour, said of her outfit — and Ms. Collins accepted such tributes with the grace of a once and future queen.

柯林斯堪称坎普传奇,更何况她还化身为《王朝》(Dynasty)的亚历克西斯·卡灵顿(Alexis Carrington),被其他宾客奉为典范——“这是亚历克西斯·卡灵顿的垫肩,”《Glamour》杂志主编萨曼莎·巴里(Samantha Barry)这样评价她的造型——柯林斯带着永恒女王般的优雅接受了这样的赞誉。

“I was called camp so many times,” she said. “The camp bitch.”

“我经常被说是坎普,”她说。“坎普风贱人。”

In the courtyard, the crowd swelled to elbow-knocking fullness, a hum of giddiness and a traffic jam of gown trains. “It’s out of this world,” said Max Hollein, the new director of the Met, celebrating his first gala, “and very different, of course.”

院子里拥挤的人群摩肩接踵,嘈杂声令人晕眩,长长的礼服裙摆来来往往。“真是不得了,”大都会博物馆新任馆长马克斯·霍林(Max Hollein)赞美他参加的第一次盛会,“当然,非常与众不同。”

Even in the world of high-stakes fund-raisers, it’s unusual to see Jeff Bezos, the billionaire founder of Amazon, kibitzing with Awkwafina, a breakout star of “Ocean’s 8” and “Crazy Rich Asians.” (In a life-imitating-art twist, “Ocean’s 8” was a caper comedy about robbing the Met Gala.) “You’re hard to miss!” Mr. Bezos told her merrily.

即使是在高端募捐会的世界里,也很难看到亚马逊(Amazon)的亿万富翁创始人杰夫·贝佐斯(Jeff Bezos)与《瞒天过海:美人计》(Ocean’s 8)和《疯狂的亚洲富人》(Crazy Rich Asians)中的新星奥卡菲娜(Ocwafina)在一起闲聊。(《瞒天过海:美人计》是一部恶搞喜剧,讲的是抢劫大都会艺术博物馆的故事,真像是艺术照进生活)。“你太显眼了!”贝佐斯愉快地对她说。 纽约时报中英文网 http://www.qqenglish.com

Everywhere one looked, unlikely wires were crossing. Over here, Shawn Mendes, the pop star, chatting with James Charles, a YouTube beauty vlogger, attired for the occasion in a shirt of chain-mail safety pins. Over there, Tiffany Haddish, the comedian, was offering around fried chicken out of her purse; the designer Gabriela Hearst eagerly accepted a piece.

到处都能看到不可思议的联系。在这边,流行歌星肖恩·门德斯(Shawn Mendes)和YouTube的美容博主詹姆斯·查尔斯(James Charles)聊天,后者穿着一件锁子甲安全别针衬衫。在那边,喜剧演员蒂芙尼·哈迪什(Tiffany Haddish)从包里掏出炸鸡分给大家;设计师加布里埃拉·赫斯特(Gabriela Hearst)热情地拿过一块。

“I stay ready, baby,” Ms. Haddish said, black-tie gala or no black-tie gala. “I got your back. That’s from my kitchen, baby.”

不管是不是需要穿正装的晚会,“我是时刻准备着,宝贝儿,”哈迪什说。“有我在你就放心吧。这都是我自己做的,宝贝儿。”

Further yonder was Lena Dunham in a dress that read “RUBBERIST” and a conspicuous glitter. “Honestly? My life’s dream was to have glitter and Astroglide mixed into a paste that I could then apply all over my body,” she said. “I’m looking to slide into someone’s DMs. Physically.”

远处是莉娜·达南(Lena Dunham),她穿着一件写着“橡胶迷恋者”(RUBBERIST)的裙子,上面还有非常醒目的亮片。“没错,我这辈子的梦想就是把亮片和Astroglide润滑剂混在一起,然后涂满全身,”她说。“我想用身体给人发骚扰私信。”

In such quarters, even those who ordinarily cannot escape attention could, at least momentarily. Gigi Hadid, who came with Michael Kors, Ms. Haddish and Bette Midler, was nearly unrecognizable under a sequined cap and spidery pairs of white eyelashes. “Everyone thinks I’m Bella,” she whispered, referring to her equally ubiquitous sister. “It’s kind of great.”

在这样的地方,即使是那些通常无法逃避关注的人,至少在短时间内也能做到。吉吉·哈迪德(Gigi Hadid)和迈克尔·科尔斯(Michael Kors)同来,还有哈迪什和贝蒂·米德勒(Bette Midler),后者戴着一顶亮片帽子和蜘蛛般的白色假睫毛,已经几乎认不出来。“所有人都以为我是贝拉(Bella),”她低声说,指的是和她一样无处不在的姊妹。“真是太棒了。”

Dinner was called, but still they kept streaming in: Tom Brady and Gisele Bündchen, Kanye and Kim Kardashian West, Nicki Minaj, Cardi B with a team of four to hoist her enormous red train, Zendaya in a faithful re-creation of Cinderella’s blue gown with a magical stylist-godfather, Law Roach, waving a magic wand.

晚餐开始了,但是人们还在不断涌入:汤姆·布兰迪(Tom Brady)和吉赛尔·邦辰(Gisele Bündchen)、坎耶和金·卡戴珊·韦斯特(Kanye and Kim Kardashian West)、妮琪·米娜(Nicki Minaj)。卡迪·B(Cardi B)带着四个人提着她长长的红色裙裾;赞达亚(Zendaya)与有魔法的造型师-教父洛·罗奇(Law Roach)合作,忠实再现了灰姑娘的蓝色礼裙,挥舞着魔杖。

“Oh, I love you’ve got a smoke machine,” Kate Moss said to her, when the wand coughed forth smoke, to atmospheric effect. “That’s genius.”

魔杖喷出白烟制造气氛。“哦,我真喜欢你这个烟雾机,”凯特·莫斯(Kate Moss)对她说,“真是天才的主意。”

It was also camp. “To be camp, you don’t need just a dress,” Mr. Michele, the creative director of Gucci, had opined at the evening’s outset. “You need to bring yourself, you know?”

这也是一种坎普。“坎普需要的不只是一条裙子,”古驰的创意总监米凯莱在当晚一开始就这么说。“你需要呈现你自己,是吧?”

He’d also brought tables full of guests: one for him and one for his collaborator Dapper Dan, with Mr. Leto and his two heads, Florence Welch, the actress Hari Nef and the playwright Jeremy O. Harris and others among them. But Mr. Michele had shimmied up the carpet with just one, Mr. Styles, whom he’d dressed in a see-through blouse, dangling pearl earring and trousers that crawled, corset-like, up his trunk.

除了自己,还有好几桌客人是他呈现的:一桌是他自己的客人,另一桌是他的合作伙伴达帕·丹(Dapper Dan)的客人,其中包括莱托和他的另一个头、弗洛伦斯·韦尔奇(Florence Welch)、演员哈莉·尼夫(Hari Nef)和编剧杰里米·O·哈里斯(Jeremy O. Harris)等人。但米凯莱只为斯泰尔斯一人设计了服装,后者穿着透明衬衫,垂着珍珠耳环,裤子像束胸衣一样高高系在身上。

The start of a new look, perhaps? “This is the start of something, yeah,” Mr. Styles said. “But I trust him. I think clothes are supposed to be fun. And camp is about enjoying yourself.”

也许这是新造型的开始?“是的,这是一个开始,”斯泰尔斯说。“但是我相信他。我认为服装就应该是有趣的。坎普就是为了让自己开心。”

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