A Rare View of the Met Gala
Sometime before sunset, as a crowd of spectators watched from behind barricades across the street, six shirtless musclebound men hoisted a velvet divan onto their shoulders. Lady Gaga had performed a kind of high-art striptease, doffing gown after gown until she reached her fourth and final outfit, but already the next performance was set to begin.
On the couch reclined what appeared to be a golden idol, regal in repose. It was, in a way: Billy Porter, an actor who understands the opportunity afforded by an occasion — thus the entourage.
The hunks lowered him to the ground, and he stepped off, spread his golden wings and posed for the crowd, which roared. Then he ascended the steps of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, carpeted in pink for the occasion, and plunged into the Met Gala, the fashion industry’s biggest party of the year.
The Met Gala is the annual fund-raiser for the Met’s Costume Institute, and tied to its spring exhibition. This year’s, “Camp: Notes on Fashion,” celebrates the pervasive influence of camp. It was up to the evening's co-chairs — besides Gaga, Anna Wintour of Vogue, Alessandro Michele of Gucci, Serena Williams and Harry Styles — and their invited guests to make a case for the theme.
Met Gala是大都会时装学院的年度筹款活动，与春季时装展相关联。今年的主题定为“坎普：时尚札记”(Camp: Notes on Fashion)，以此纪念坎普的广泛影响。至于这个主题够不够格，就要看当晚的联席主席——除Gaga之外还有《Vogue》杂志主编安娜·温图尔(Anna Wintour)、古驰(Gucci)的亚历山德罗·米凯莱(Alessandro Michele)、塞雷娜·威廉姆斯(Serena Williams)和哈利·斯泰尔斯(Harry Styles)——及他们邀请的嘉宾的了。
“The thing that I love is that this brings dignity back to the form,” Mr. Porter said. “Flamboyance, camp — most of the time, it’s a pejorative. This is a reclamation.”
He had reclaimed camp for himself in a look by the Blonds, a New York label, which sprang, Mr. Porter said, “out of Ryan Murphy saying to me I should do the entire five-outfit montage from ‘Mahogany.’” He’d settled for one.
Camp is tricky for fashion, which often is camp without understanding itself to be. Camp celebrates artifice and artificiality, flamboyance and theatricality, but can quickly deflate if forced.
It proved no less challenging for many of the guests, who came dressed as extravagant versions of themselves. “What is camp?” asked Celine Dion, who arrived in a beaded curtain of fringe by Oscar de la Renta and a peacock-feather headdress. “I got very confused.”
结果证明，它对现场许多嘉宾的挑战一点也不小，尽管他们纷纷以奢华版的自己亮相。“究竟什么是坎普？”席琳·迪翁(Celine Dion)问道，她穿着一身Oscar de la Renta的流苏坠株帘和一件孔雀羽毛头饰抵达现场。“我可是很困惑。”
She paused and leaned in conspiratorially. “And I was not the only one.”
Is it camp to be a cheeseburger, as Katy Perry was, dressed as a crystal-encrusted sandwich? (A costume change: She had entered as a chandelier, fully lit.) No, just potentially dangerous. “You’re a slider? Let me eat you!” the rising rapper Lizzo cried with delight when the two met near the entrance. “I hope you’re vegan.”
“This is an Impossible Burger,” a meatless alternative, Ms. Perry replied.
Is it camp to carry around a replica of your own head, as Jared Leto did? Not really, just creepy, though it makes for good selfies. Derek Blasberg took one with both Letos.
坎普是到处举着自己头颅的复制品么，就像杰瑞德·莱托(Jared Leto)那样？不见得，太毛骨悚然了，虽然用来自拍挺不错的。德里克·布拉斯伯格(Derek Blasberg)就和两个莱托拍了一张。
Is it camp to be Joan Collins? We have a winner. Of course it is, and “of course” the theme resonated with her, said Ms. Collins, wafting through the Met’s Petrie sculpture court in white feathers and radzimir by Valentino.
Ms. Collins, especially in her incarnation as Alexis Carrington of “Dynasty,” is a camp legend, invoked by other guests as a North Star — “These are some Alexis Carrington shoulders,” Samantha Barry, the editor of Glamour, said of her outfit — and Ms. Collins accepted such tributes with the grace of a once and future queen.
柯林斯堪称坎普传奇，更何况她还化身为《王朝》(Dynasty)的亚历克西斯·卡灵顿(Alexis Carrington)，被其他宾客奉为典范——“这是亚历克西斯·卡灵顿的垫肩，”《Glamour》杂志主编萨曼莎·巴里(Samantha Barry)这样评价她的造型——柯林斯带着永恒女王般的优雅接受了这样的赞誉。
“I was called camp so many times,” she said. “The camp bitch.”
In the courtyard, the crowd swelled to elbow-knocking fullness, a hum of giddiness and a traffic jam of gown trains. “It’s out of this world,” said Max Hollein, the new director of the Met, celebrating his first gala, “and very different, of course.”
Even in the world of high-stakes fund-raisers, it’s unusual to see Jeff Bezos, the billionaire founder of Amazon, kibitzing with Awkwafina, a breakout star of “Ocean’s 8” and “Crazy Rich Asians.” (In a life-imitating-art twist, “Ocean’s 8” was a caper comedy about robbing the Met Gala.) “You’re hard to miss!” Mr. Bezos told her merrily.
即使是在高端募捐会的世界里，也很难看到亚马逊(Amazon)的亿万富翁创始人杰夫·贝佐斯(Jeff Bezos)与《瞒天过海：美人计》(Ocean’s 8)和《疯狂的亚洲富人》(Crazy Rich Asians)中的新星奥卡菲娜(Ocwafina)在一起闲聊。(《瞒天过海：美人计》是一部恶搞喜剧，讲的是抢劫大都会艺术博物馆的故事，真像是艺术照进生活）。“你太显眼了！”贝佐斯愉快地对她说。
Everywhere one looked, unlikely wires were crossing. Over here, Shawn Mendes, the pop star, chatting with James Charles, a YouTube beauty vlogger, attired for the occasion in a shirt of chain-mail safety pins. Over there, Tiffany Haddish, the comedian, was offering around fried chicken out of her purse; the designer Gabriela Hearst eagerly accepted a piece.
到处都能看到不可思议的联系。在这边，流行歌星肖恩·门德斯(Shawn Mendes)和YouTube的美容博主詹姆斯·查尔斯(James Charles)聊天，后者穿着一件锁子甲安全别针衬衫。在那边，喜剧演员蒂芙尼·哈迪什(Tiffany Haddish)从包里掏出炸鸡分给大家；设计师加布里埃拉·赫斯特(Gabriela Hearst)热情地拿过一块。
“I stay ready, baby,” Ms. Haddish said, black-tie gala or no black-tie gala. “I got your back. That’s from my kitchen, baby.”
Further yonder was Lena Dunham in a dress that read “RUBBERIST” and a conspicuous glitter. “Honestly? My life’s dream was to have glitter and Astroglide mixed into a paste that I could then apply all over my body,” she said. “I’m looking to slide into someone’s DMs. Physically.”
In such quarters, even those who ordinarily cannot escape attention could, at least momentarily. Gigi Hadid, who came with Michael Kors, Ms. Haddish and Bette Midler, was nearly unrecognizable under a sequined cap and spidery pairs of white eyelashes. “Everyone thinks I’m Bella,” she whispered, referring to her equally ubiquitous sister. “It’s kind of great.”
在这样的地方，即使是那些通常无法逃避关注的人，至少在短时间内也能做到。吉吉·哈迪德(Gigi Hadid)和迈克尔·科尔斯(Michael Kors)同来，还有哈迪什和贝蒂·米德勒(Bette Midler)，后者戴着一顶亮片帽子和蜘蛛般的白色假睫毛，已经几乎认不出来。“所有人都以为我是贝拉(Bella)，”她低声说，指的是和她一样无处不在的姊妹。“真是太棒了。”
Dinner was called, but still they kept streaming in: Tom Brady and Gisele Bündchen, Kanye and Kim Kardashian West, Nicki Minaj, Cardi B with a team of four to hoist her enormous red train, Zendaya in a faithful re-creation of Cinderella’s blue gown with a magical stylist-godfather, Law Roach, waving a magic wand.
晚餐开始了，但是人们还在不断涌入：汤姆·布兰迪(Tom Brady)和吉赛尔·邦辰(Gisele Bündchen)、坎耶和金·卡戴珊·韦斯特(Kanye and Kim Kardashian West)、妮琪·米娜(Nicki Minaj)。卡迪·B(Cardi B)带着四个人提着她长长的红色裙裾；赞达亚(Zendaya)与有魔法的造型师-教父洛·罗奇(Law Roach)合作，忠实再现了灰姑娘的蓝色礼裙，挥舞着魔杖。
“Oh, I love you’ve got a smoke machine,” Kate Moss said to her, when the wand coughed forth smoke, to atmospheric effect. “That’s genius.”
It was also camp. “To be camp, you don’t need just a dress,” Mr. Michele, the creative director of Gucci, had opined at the evening’s outset. “You need to bring yourself, you know?”
He’d also brought tables full of guests: one for him and one for his collaborator Dapper Dan, with Mr. Leto and his two heads, Florence Welch, the actress Hari Nef and the playwright Jeremy O. Harris and others among them. But Mr. Michele had shimmied up the carpet with just one, Mr. Styles, whom he’d dressed in a see-through blouse, dangling pearl earring and trousers that crawled, corset-like, up his trunk.
除了自己，还有好几桌客人是他呈现的：一桌是他自己的客人，另一桌是他的合作伙伴达帕·丹(Dapper Dan)的客人，其中包括莱托和他的另一个头、弗洛伦斯·韦尔奇(Florence Welch)、演员哈莉·尼夫(Hari Nef)和编剧杰里米·O·哈里斯(Jeremy O. Harris)等人。但米凯莱只为斯泰尔斯一人设计了服装，后者穿着透明衬衫，垂着珍珠耳环，裤子像束胸衣一样高高系在身上。
The start of a new look, perhaps? “This is the start of something, yeah,” Mr. Styles said. “But I trust him. I think clothes are supposed to be fun. And camp is about enjoying yourself.”