您现在的位置: 纽约时报中英文网 >> 纽约时报中英文版 >> 旅游 >> 正文

印度洋泪珠,斯里兰卡印象之旅

更新时间:2019/11/7 18:09:29 来源:纽约时报中文网 作者:佚名

    Sri Lanka is small, and this is called "a tear in the Indian Ocean" or "a pearl in the Indian Ocean", like a tear or a pearl, like her conflicting history and beauty.

    斯里兰卡很小,这个被称作「印度洋上的一滴眼泪」或者「印度洋上的一颗珍珠」,像眼泪又似珍珠,如同她衝突的历史与美感。

    Sri Lanka has ruled by Portugal, the Netherlands and the UK, in recent years, the civil war ceasefire, pluralistic culture attract travelers from all over the world come to visit, full of design feeling of the fashion hotel soon, flight, boutiques, cafes are visible, but with the salon, barefoot step in the mud, the squat toilet between township roads, formed the sharp contrast.

    斯里兰卡曾经先后被葡萄牙、荷兰及英国统治,近年内战停火,多元的文化吸引世界各地旅人前来造访,富有设计感的时尚旅店陆续进驻、航班渐增,精品店、咖啡馆更是随处可见,但又与在地身围沙龙、赤足踩在泥地上,乡道间的低矮茅房,形成了强烈对比。

    This is a buddhist country, tour guide said, 20 million people have four ethnic groups, four religions, but the sangjaro and Buddhism account for nearly 70 percent, this is also South Asia, with Bhutan ranked as the only two buddhist countries, religious buildings can be seen everywhere. Another focal point, it is tea garden, "Ceylon black tea" carry reputation the whole world, tea garden scenery also became one of the tourist attractions must appreciate.

    这是一个佛教国家,导游说,2000万人口裡有4个民族、4个宗教,但僧迦罗人与佛教占近7成,这也是南亚地区中,与不丹并列为唯二的佛教国家,宗教建筑随处可见。另一个焦点,则是茶园,「锡兰红茶」载誉全球,茶园风光也成了旅人必赏的景点之一。

    ● the eighth wonder of the world at lion rock

    ●登狮子岩 世界第八大奇蹟

    The tour guide said that lion rock is the "mark" of Sri Lanka, not to have been to the country is not aware of the country.

    导游说,狮子岩是斯里兰卡的「印记」,没来过等于不认识这个国家。

    The road to lion rock, surrounded by lush green, was once the palace of the patricide king casapa, who built his palace on top of the stone, built a moat around it, then became a monastery, and then disappeared into history until English archaeologists discovered it in the jungle. The rock is 200 meters high, with winding stone steps reaching the top and a concave rock in the middle.

    通往狮子岩的道路,尽是蓊鬱的绿,这裡曾是弑父夺权的君王卡萨帕的宫殿,他在巨石顶端建造宫殿,并在周围修筑了护城河,之后成为修道院,接著隐入历史,直到英国考古学家在丛林裡发现它。这块巨岩有200公尺高,蜿蜒的石阶可以一直攀登到顶部,中段有处凹入的石岩,约1500年前的画作依然保持鲜丽色彩,画作多半是半裸的仕女,戴著华丽的头饰。

    Climbing lion rock is harder than expected. Called "the eighth wonder of the world," "machu picchu in the Indian Ocean," it fell like a boulder from the sky onto a vast plain, formed by the condensation of volcanic lava and the erosion of rain. Walk around the moat outside the site into the Water Gardens, Boulder Gardens and other sites below lion rock, and Cobra Hood Cave, named for the rock topped with a rattlesnake.

    攀登狮子岩,比想像的吃力。这裡被称作「世界第八大奇蹟」,「印度洋上的马丘比丘」,像一块从天而降的巨石,坠落在一片辽阔的平原上,它来自火山熔岩冷凝,再加上雨水侵蚀而成。沿路绕过遗址外的护城河,进入「狮子岩」下方的水庭园(Water Gardens)、巨砾庭园(Boulder Gardens)等遗址,还有一处因顶部形似响尾蛇的巨石而得名的Cobra Hood Cave。

    Overlook lionrock, climbing a mountain is the endless road, paved with iron plate back staircase drumming in the foot, the half-naked had, followed by large flat and bare rock, who is said to be the Mirror of the "king", therefore, also known as the Mirror Wall (Mirror Wall) with one thousand on graffiti to tourists, as far as dates back to the 6th century BC.

    远眺狮子岩之后,就是无止尽的登山之路,铁板铺成的迴旋梯在脚下咚咚作响,探完半裸的仕女图,接著是大片平整又光秃的岩壁,据说曾是「国王的镜子」,因此又称镜子牆 (Mirror Wall) 上有著千年来游客的涂鸦,最远可追溯到西元6世纪。

    Through the narrow walkway, the view is suddenly widened. The broad platform has a pair of sharp and thick lion claws, which is also the only symbol of "lion" left in the lion rock.

    通过窄狭的走道,接著视野豁然开阔,宽大的平台有对锋利粗壮的狮爪,这也是狮子岩仅存「狮」的象徵。

    ● the kandy statue of Buddha and British architecture in the holy city

    ●圣城康提 佛像与英式建筑

    Kandy is an ancient city, surrounded by tea gardens and lakes, and many English buildings left behind. In the middle of the European style stands a huge Buddha statue. Kandy, which means "great city" or "capital" in sinhalese, is said to have been brought into Sri Lanka by an Indian princess in the 4th century AD with a tooth from the Buddha's death hidden in her hair.

    康提( Kandy )是座古都城,山林茶园与湖泊环绕,还有许多遗留的英式建筑,欧风之间矗立著巨大佛像,嘟嘟车叭叭叭的快驶其间,动与静巧妙相融。Kandy在僧伽罗语中意为「伟大之城」或是「首都」,据说西元4世纪,印度公主将佛陀圆寂时的一颗牙齿藏在头髮中带进斯里兰卡,至今保存在康提佛牙寺中,成为斯里兰卡最神圣的地标。

    This tooth of Buddha, which has many legends, is also the main character in many movies. People from all walks of life fight for this supreme symbol of religion and kingship. Nowadays, getting into the temple is even more difficult. You have to change into a clean and white suit and go through various security checks, including everyone taking turns to enter the small room for a thorough inspection. Then you can take off your shoes and socks and worship the Buddha in the purest heart.

    这颗有诸多传说的佛牙,也是许多电影裡的主角,各方人马为此宗教与王权的至高象徵,以生命拚搏。如今,要入寺也难上加难,得先换装、一身淨白,再经重重安检,包括每人轮流进入小房间彻底检查,接著脱下鞋袜,以最纯淨的心,入寺礼佛。

    The temple was built in the 15th century and expanded by successive Kings. Surrounded by the temple river, the temple has two layers, hall set hall, complex structure, among them, the most important building is the central hall, stone, wood, ivory carving, gold and silver casting ornaments, walls, beams and even the ceiling are full of color painting, like an art museum.

    佛牙寺建于15世纪,经过历代国王扩建,规模宏大。周围有护寺河环绕,寺院有上下两层,厅堂套厅堂,结构複杂,其中,最重要的建筑是中心大殿,内有石雕、木雕、象牙雕、金银铸饰等,牆壁、梁柱甚至天花板上都布满了彩绘,宛如艺术博物馆。

    A heavy pass, strange music sounds, sentient beings respect. Waiting for the completion of rites and music, and then around into the second floor of the inner temple, is also the center of the temple, the middle of the hall dedicated to a sitting Buddha, left dark room is the place for the tooth worship. But even into the temple of Buddha tooth, also do not see the Buddha tooth, it is protected by seven layers of golden urn, the tower is full of gemstones, layers of golden urn phase cover, the last small pagoda less than one meter high, the tower has a golden lotus flower, stamens have jade ring, the Buddha tooth is placed in the jade ring. It is said that the seven layers of the golden urn has a total of 19 keys, usually by the hereditary 19 directors custody, must all to all to open the golden urn. Every year, during the Buddha's tooth festival around the full moon in July or August, elephants are carried around the city.

    一重重的关卡,奇特的礼乐声响起,众生敬肃。等待礼乐完成,再环绕进入二层的内殿,也是寺院中心,内殿正中供奉一尊坐佛,左侧暗室则是供奉佛牙之地。但即便进入佛牙寺,也见不著佛牙,它由七层金塔保护,塔上镶满宝石,金塔层层相罩,最后的小金塔不到一米高,塔中有朵金莲花,花蕊中有玉环,佛牙即安放在玉环上。据说,七层金塔共有19把钥匙,平时由世袭的19位董事保管,必须全员到齐才能开启金塔。每年7或8月月圆前后的佛牙节时,会由驮象背负著游行市区。

    ● hidden in the town panting grotto temple

    ●隐于小镇 气喘吁吁石窟寺

    Tucked into the "golden triangle of culture", Dambulla is an undistinguished town that receives a constant stream of tourists thanks to its "grotto temple".

    夹在「文化金三角」内的丹布勒(Dambulla)是个不起眼的小镇,却因拥有「石窟寺」而迎来络绎不绝的游客。

    Grotto temple is located in the high ground, got off the car, all the way up the hill, still no sign of the temple. Until breathless, according to the order off shoes and socks, barefoot trampling on the smooth stone ground, only to see the temple eaves.

    石窟寺位处高地,下了车,一路爬坡,始终没见著寺庙的踪影。直到气喘吁吁,依令脱下鞋袜,赤脚踩踏在平滑的石地上,才见寺簷。

    According to documents, king Valagamba of anuradpura was usurped in the first century BC and fled there for 14 years. When he regained power, he turned the cave into a temple, which Kings built and centuries later became a center of faith.

    据文献记载,西元前一世纪时阿努拉德普勒的国王Valagamba被篡位,逃亡至此度过14年艰辛岁月。当他再度夺回政权,便将石洞打造成一座寺庙,经过历代国王的增建,几个世纪后已成信仰中心。

    It is also the largest and best preserved cave buddhist temple in Sri Lanka. The whole cave temple is built along the cliff and divided into five caves. There are about 150 Buddha paintings and Buddha statues of different sizes and poses. Like "grotto no. 1," a 15-meter-long reservior Buddha built in a narrow stone cave that requires one side to the other to pass through, the guide warned that the Buddha had lotus flowers on the soles of its feet, but the dim light, age and the push of tourists made it difficult to look carefully. There are also many colorful murals, such as the largest "no. 2 grotto". Almost every corner is full of vivid buddhist stories.

    这也是斯里兰卡最大、保存最完整的洞穴佛寺,整座石窟寺沿著石崖而建,分成5个洞窟,约有150幅佛像画作和大小姿态不同的佛像,特别的是,几乎每个石洞都有一尊卧佛。像是「一号石窟」一尊15公尺长的卧佛,建造在窄狭的石洞内,得互相侧身才能通行,导游特别提醒佛像的脚底画有朵朵盛开的莲花,但是灯光昏暗、年代久远,加上游客推挤,很难仔细瞧清。这裡也有不少色彩丰富的壁画,像是最大的「二号石窟」,几乎每个角落都画满了生动的佛教故事,众子弟围绕在佛的身边,彷彿回到说佛法的那一刻。

    ● the world heritage fishing experience is more than just fun

    ●不只世遗 立钓体验超有趣

    Sri Lanka can be said to be almost a day of death, most of which are related to religion and history. If you want to experience something fun, Sri Lanka has all the hot air balloons, elephant rides, ayurvedic experiences, whale watching, etc. Apart from welcoming new students, there are also traditional interests, "vertical fishing" is one of them.

    斯里兰卡可说几乎一天一世遗,其中又多与宗教、历史相关。如果想体验,玩些精采有趣的,斯里兰卡也有,举凡近年时兴的热气球、骑大象行婚礼、阿育吠陀体验、赏鲸之旅等等皆备。除了迎新,也有传统趣味,「立钓」就是其一。

    "Stand fishing" as the name suggests is standing fishing. In the sea, the bamboo poles stand upright and the fishermen stand or sit on the poles and fish with fishing rods. This is the traditional vertical fishing in Sri Lanka. Lonely planet Sri Lanka, a travel book, took this as the cover and the traditional fishing became an instant hit.

    「立钓」顾名思义是站著钓鱼。大海中,一根根直立而起的竹竿,钓者或站或坐于竿上,手持渔竿钓鱼,这是斯里兰卡传统的立钓,旅游书lonely planet斯里兰卡一书就以此为封面,传统钓鱼瞬间暴红。

    Vertical fishing in Sri Lanka has been very few, most of the "design" for tourists to experience. Trampling on the beach, from afar, a picture of the scene can not help but hold your breath, standing between the sky and the sea, wearing a hat, dark skin, the expression of concentration of the fishermen in the sunset as a statue.

    立钓在斯里兰卡已少之又少,多半是「设计」给游客体验用。踩踏在沙滩上,远远望去,一幅画般的景象让人忍不住屏息,立于天与海之间,戴著斗笠、黝黑的肤色,神情专注的钓者在夕阳下如尊尊雕像。

    This traditional fishing method has been handed down from generation to generation since the second world war and has become a unique cultural landscape along the southern coast of Sri Lanka. Fishermen say the wood in the sea lasts about four months and is replaced when it rots. The daily income is about three or four dollars.

    这种传统的钓鱼方式,源起二战后,当地渔民代代相传,成了斯里兰卡南部海岸独特的人文风景。渔夫们说,插在海中的木头约能用4个月,腐朽了再换新,旺季能钓4到5公斤的鱼;每日的收入大约是3、4美元。

    Vertical fishing may seem easy, but it is not. It is not easy to climb up the bare bamboo pole, and you have to cross your legs to keep balance and sit on the pole. Besides, there is no bait on the hook, so you have to hook the fish in the water with your skills.

    立钓看似容易,实则不然。光是爬上光溜溜的竹竿以不简单,还得双腿盘住,保持平衡「坐」在竿上,而且鱼钩上没有挂饵,得靠技巧勾起水中的鱼,上竿的游客形容「要钓到鱼,简直难如登天」。

    ● if you want to go

    ●如果你想去

    Visa: electronic visa is available

    签证:可申请电子签证

    Season: the annual temperature is about 27 ℃. Except the rainy season in April, may, October and November, all other months are tourist seasons

    季节:年均温约摄氏27度,除4、5、10及11月雨季外,其他月份都是旅游季节

    Dress wear: give priority to with light summer dress, enter temple unfavorable wear expose, knickers or skirt and slipper to wait, had better have on a complete white dress pants

    衣著:以轻便夏衣为主,入寺不宜穿著暴露、短裤或裙及拖鞋等,最好备上一套全白衣裤

“全文请访问纽约时报中文网,本文发表于纽约时报中文网(http://cn.nytimes.com),版权归纽约时报公司所有。任何单位及个人未经许可,不得擅自转载或翻译。订阅纽约时报中文网新闻电邮:http://nytcn.me/subscription/”

相关文章列表
    没有相关文章