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黄背心的力量

  荧光黄色安全背心"gilet jaune"已成为法国人对燃料价格、不断加剧的收入不公等问题的强烈抗议的代名词,总有一天,它将走进博物馆,成为历史上最有效的抗议服装之一。

  Fluorescent yellow safety vest "gilet jaune" has become synonymous with French protests over fuel prices and rising income inequality. One day, it will enter the museum and become one of the most effective protest clothing in history.

  无论是谁选择了它(没有人声称是自己的主意,正如没有人站出来承认自己是运动的领导者),无论出于何种原因,是本能抑或灼见,这都是一个强有力的创意.事实上,它的效果好到法国总统埃马纽埃尔·马克龙(Emmanuel Macron)于周二宣布燃油税不会上涨.自从法国大革命期间无套裤汉(Sans-culottes,法国大革命时期对城市平民的称呼.--译注)拿他们的裤子作为同贵族的视觉差异之后,再也没有出现过如此引人注目的服装象征符号。

  No matter who chooses it (no one claims to be their own idea, just as no one comes forward to admit that they are the leader of the movement), for whatever reason, whether it is instinct or opinion, this is a powerful idea. In fact, it worked so well that French President Emmanuel Macron announced on Tuesday that the fuel tax would not rise. Since the Sans-culottes during the French Revolution, the name of urban civilians during the French Revolution has taken their pants as a visual difference from the aristocracy, there has never been such a striking symbol of clothing.

  这可能不是巧合。

  This may not be a coincidence.

  这件黄色背心很快就出现在抗议活动的所有照片中,无论是不是和平抗议,即使在社交媒体的小屏幕上,你也不会错过它.它很容易套在任何服装外面,有摇身一变的效果。它被广泛理解为遇险的信号。

  This yellow vest soon appeared in all photos of the protest, whether it was peaceful protest or not, even on the small screen of social media, you will not miss it. It is easy to wrap over any clothing and has the effect of changing shape. It is widely understood as a signal of distress.

  它与工人阶级从事的行业有关,比如建筑业。自2008年以来,所有法国驾车者都拥有这样一件或者同它非常类似的服装,当时出台了一条法律,要求车主在车内放一件能见度高的服装,以备出现问题时使用。(其他欧洲国家也有类似的法律。)

  It has something to do with the working class, such as construction. Since 2008, all French motorists have owned such or very similar clothing. At that time, a law was issued requiring car owners to put a highly visible garment in the car in case of problems. (Other European countries have similar laws.)

  难怪抗议活动会蔓延到比利时:这件革命的制服就像挫折和愤怒一样容易传播.在塞尔维亚,反对党的一名代表在议会上警告说:"我们希望汽油价格正常,否则贝尔格莱德和塞尔维亚的街道上就会出现黄背心。"

  No wonder the protests will spread to Belgium: this revolutionary uniform will spread as easily as frustration and anger. In Serbia, a representative of the opposition warned in parliament: "We want gas prices to be normal, otherwise yellow vests will appear on the streets of Belgrade and Serbia."

  这件背心的价格也非常低廉(Amazon.fr上售价为5.90欧元,约合6.70美元).它无处不在,即使没有正式参与运动的人也可以加入其中.马克龙总统去参加在阿根廷举行的20国集团峰会,下机时只有机场工作人员迎接他,他们穿着……明亮的黄色安全背心,看看这一幕在社交网络上激起了多大的欢乐吧.它比任何演讲台都好。"从历史上到现在,着装已经并且正在被用来讨论公民身份究竟意味着什么,属于或不属于某个国民团体究竟意味着什么,"普林斯顿大学(Princeton University)专门研究着装的文化人类学讲师艾林·K·沃恩康布(Erin K. Vearncombe)说。"通常情况下,没有被包含在某个国民团体之内的个人会用这种着装方式来抗议政治建筑,并且带来变革。"

  The price of this vest is also very low (Amazon.fr is priced at 5.90 euros, about 6.70 US dollars). It is ubiquitous, and even people who are not officially involved in the movement can join it. President Macron went to the G20 summit in Argentina, and only airport staff greeted him when he disembarked. They wore ... bright yellow safety vests and see how much joy this scene aroused on social networks. It's better than any podium. "Historical clothing has been and is being used to discuss exactly what citizenship means, and what it means to belong to or not belong to a national group," said Princeton University, a lecturer in cultural anthropology specializing in dress Erin K. Vearncombe said. "Usually, individuals who are not included in a national group use this dress to protest political architecture and bring about change."

  你好,穿着黄背心的黄背心。

  Hello, yellow vest with yellow vest.

  然而,使用服装作为这种工具变得越来越困难,找到能发挥这种作用的服装也越来越困难.很长一段时间以来,传统上与服装相关的阶级和价值观的明确划分已经受到侵蚀,这既是因为社会对俗套的普遍反对,也是因为时尚界自身旁征博引的倾向,许多原本属于外来者和权利被剥夺者的服装,性质都发生了变化。

  However, it has become increasingly difficult to use clothing as such a tool, and it has become increasingly difficult to find clothing that can play this role. For a long time, the clear division of traditionally clothing-related classes and values ??has been eroded, both because of the general opposition to stereotypes in the society and because of the tendency of the fashion industry itself to be solicited. The clothing and nature of the people have changed.

  嬉皮士一代的破旧丹宁和扎染已经被街头风和伸展台所吸收;Dior采纳了1968年的皮革和贝雷帽;Alexander McQueen和Versace使用英国朋克的骷髅和安全别针。一旦某件服装出现在高级定制时装秀里,就不可能被当做愤怒或绝望的呐喊来认真对待。这太糟糕了,因为几个世纪以来,服装在反叛和极端主义的叙事中发挥了重要的补充作用,无论是右派还是左派.近年来尤其如此。

  The worn-out tannins and tie-dye of the hippie generation have been absorbed by street style and stretchers; Dior adopted 1968 leather and berets; Alexander McQueen and Versace used British punk skulls and safety pins. Once a piece of clothing appears in a haute couture show, it cannot be taken seriously as a cry of anger or despair. This is too bad, because for centuries clothing has played an important complementary role in the narrative of rebellion and extremism, whether it is right or left. This has been particularly true in recent years.

  女性参政论者决定使用颜色--白色、绿色、紫色--来表达她们的要求和性格。(自从希拉里·克林顿[Hillary Clinton]在自己的竞选活动中直接援引这一做法后,我们现在都已经知道了。) 纽约时报中英文网 http://www.qqenglish.com

  Female politicians have decided to use colors--white, green, and purple--to express their demands and personalities. (Since Hillary Clinton has directly invoked this in his own campaign, we all know it now.)

  更近一些的事件发生在2017年的女性大游行上,人们戴着粉红色猫耳帽作为视觉关注点;还有在金球奖上的女星,她们身穿黑裙,支持网上的"#TimesUp"(是时候了)活动;以及特朗普发表第一次国情咨文时身穿黑色服装的女性议员。反法西斯(Antifa)运动中的黑色靴子、卫衣、长裤和滑雪口罩,是一种较泛泛的、自由发散的无政府主义表征.不过,黑色无处不在,它可以有各种解释,这有点损害了它作为抗议服装的效果.它拥有短暂的力量,但不足以让效果在你心头萦绕不去.沃恩康布说,这有助于解释为什么"许多这类做法并没有像黄色背心那样,几乎立即转化为运动的代名词。"

  More recent incidents occurred during the women's parade in 2017.People wore pink cat ear hats as a visual focus; there were also actresses at the Golden Globes who wore black dresses and supported online "#" TimesUp "(it's time); and female lawmakers in black at the time of Trump's first State of the Union address. The black boots, sweaters, trousers, and ski masks in the Antifa movement are a more general and freely divergent anarchist character. However, black is ubiquitous, and it can have various explanations, which somewhat hurts its effectiveness as a protest costume. It has short-term power, but not enough to make the effect linger in your mind. This helps explain why "many of these practices, like the yellow vests, are almost immediately synonymous with sports," said Vaughn Cambe.

  像这样超凡出众的图腾式服装屈指可数:无套裤汉、褐衫队(希特勒于1923年创建的武装组织。--译注)。(将褐衫队与其他服装混为一谈似乎不妥,但它是一场由服装命名的政治运动.)那么究竟是什么造成了不同?

  There are only a handful of extraordinary totem-like costumes like this: trousers and brown shirts (an armed organization founded by Hitler in 1923.). (It doesn't seem right to mix the Brown Shirts with other outfits, but it's a political movement named after outfits.) So what makes the difference?

  在某种程度上,这是来自黄色背心本身的亲和力.但是运动的分散性本质可能也有作用,这使得背心更加重要,成了一种统一的线索和战斗号令.没有这种制服的抗议活动在现代似乎很少见,并且正因如此,可能效果也比较差.2011年的占领华尔街运动就缺乏视觉凝聚力。抗议者的外观多种多样,这种杂乱反映出他们的不满情绪也是多种多样的。

  In a way, this comes from the affinity of the yellow vest itself. But the decentralized nature of the sport may also play a role, which makes the vest even more important, becoming a unified clue and battle order. Protests without such uniforms seem to be rare in modern times, and because of this, they may be less effective. The occupation of Wall Street in 2011 lacked visual cohesion. The appearance of the protesters is diverse, and this clutter reflects their dissatisfaction.

  "在政治体中,着装的身体往往是缺乏代表的个体参与公民身份谈判的唯一机会,"沃恩康布说。"它是日常的,它是参与的,它是协作和民主的.。"

  "In the polity, the body of the dress is often the only opportunity for the underrepresented individual to participate in the negotiation of citizenship," Warncombe said. "It's everyday, it's participatory, it's collaborative and democratic."

  法国是产生无套裤汉的国家,时尚被认为是文化和遗产的一部分,以及政权更迭的工具,这个国家能够理解这一点是毫不意外的。

  France is a country that produces trousers, and fashion is considered a part of culture and heritage, as well as a tool for regime change. It is not surprising that this country can understand this.

  在最近的黄背心骚乱期间,Chanel和Dior等品牌的商店橱窗被砸碎,也不是偶然的.(具有讽刺意味的是,2008年首次引入黄背心法时,Chanel设计师卡尔·拉格菲尔德[Karl Lagerfeld]曾经在广告中宣传它救人性命的能力.)以眼还眼,以衣还衣.服装再一次呈现了富人和穷人之间的差异。

  It is no accident that shop windows of brands such as Chanel and Dior were smashed during the recent yellow vest riots. (Ironically, when the yellow vest method was first introduced in 2008, Chanel designer Karl Lagerfeld once advertised its ability to save lives in an advertisement.) An eye for an eye, clothes for clothes . Clothing once again presents the difference between the rich and the poor.

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