Fluorescent yellow safety vest "gilet jaune" has become synonymous with French protests over fuel prices and rising income inequality. One day, it will enter the museum and become one of the most effective protest clothing in history.
No matter who chooses it (no one claims to be their own idea, just as no one comes forward to admit that they are the leader of the movement), for whatever reason, whether it is instinct or opinion, this is a powerful idea. In fact, it worked so well that French President Emmanuel Macron announced on Tuesday that the fuel tax would not rise. Since the Sans-culottes during the French Revolution, the name of urban civilians during the French Revolution has taken their pants as a visual difference from the aristocracy, there has never been such a striking symbol of clothing.
This may not be a coincidence.
This yellow vest soon appeared in all photos of the protest, whether it was peaceful protest or not, even on the small screen of social media, you will not miss it. It is easy to wrap over any clothing and has the effect of changing shape. It is widely understood as a signal of distress.
It has something to do with the working class, such as construction. Since 2008, all French motorists have owned such or very similar clothing. At that time, a law was issued requiring car owners to put a highly visible garment in the car in case of problems. (Other European countries have similar laws.)
No wonder the protests will spread to Belgium: this revolutionary uniform will spread as easily as frustration and anger. In Serbia, a representative of the opposition warned in parliament: "We want gas prices to be normal, otherwise yellow vests will appear on the streets of Belgrade and Serbia."
这件背心的价格也非常低廉(Amazon.fr上售价为5.90欧元,约合6.70美元).它无处不在,即使没有正式参与运动的人也可以加入其中.马克龙总统去参加在阿根廷举行的20国集团峰会,下机时只有机场工作人员迎接他,他们穿着……明亮的黄色安全背心,看看这一幕在社交网络上激起了多大的欢乐吧.它比任何演讲台都好。"从历史上到现在,着装已经并且正在被用来讨论公民身份究竟意味着什么,属于或不属于某个国民团体究竟意味着什么,"普林斯顿大学(Princeton University)专门研究着装的文化人类学讲师艾林·K·沃恩康布(Erin K. Vearncombe)说。"通常情况下,没有被包含在某个国民团体之内的个人会用这种着装方式来抗议政治建筑,并且带来变革。"
The price of this vest is also very low (Amazon.fr is priced at 5.90 euros, about 6.70 US dollars). It is ubiquitous, and even people who are not officially involved in the movement can join it. President Macron went to the G20 summit in Argentina, and only airport staff greeted him when he disembarked. They wore ... bright yellow safety vests and see how much joy this scene aroused on social networks. It's better than any podium. "Historical clothing has been and is being used to discuss exactly what citizenship means, and what it means to belong to or not belong to a national group," said Princeton University, a lecturer in cultural anthropology specializing in dress Erin K. Vearncombe said. "Usually, individuals who are not included in a national group use this dress to protest political architecture and bring about change."
Hello, yellow vest with yellow vest.
However, it has become increasingly difficult to use clothing as such a tool, and it has become increasingly difficult to find clothing that can play this role. For a long time, the clear division of traditionally clothing-related classes and values ??has been eroded, both because of the general opposition to stereotypes in the society and because of the tendency of the fashion industry itself to be solicited. The clothing and nature of the people have changed.
The worn-out tannins and tie-dye of the hippie generation have been absorbed by street style and stretchers; Dior adopted 1968 leather and berets; Alexander McQueen and Versace used British punk skulls and safety pins. Once a piece of clothing appears in a haute couture show, it cannot be taken seriously as a cry of anger or despair. This is too bad, because for centuries clothing has played an important complementary role in the narrative of rebellion and extremism, whether it is right or left. This has been particularly true in recent years.
女性参政论者决定使用颜色--白色、绿色、紫色--来表达她们的要求和性格。(自从希拉里·克林顿[Hillary Clinton]在自己的竞选活动中直接援引这一做法后,我们现在都已经知道了。) 纽约时报中英文网 http://www.qqenglish.com
Female politicians have decided to use colors--white, green, and purple--to express their demands and personalities. (Since Hillary Clinton has directly invoked this in his own campaign, we all know it now.)
More recent incidents occurred during the women's parade in 2017.People wore pink cat ear hats as a visual focus; there were also actresses at the Golden Globes who wore black dresses and supported online "#" TimesUp "(it's time); and female lawmakers in black at the time of Trump's first State of the Union address. The black boots, sweaters, trousers, and ski masks in the Antifa movement are a more general and freely divergent anarchist character. However, black is ubiquitous, and it can have various explanations, which somewhat hurts its effectiveness as a protest costume. It has short-term power, but not enough to make the effect linger in your mind. This helps explain why "many of these practices, like the yellow vests, are almost immediately synonymous with sports," said Vaughn Cambe.
There are only a handful of extraordinary totem-like costumes like this: trousers and brown shirts (an armed organization founded by Hitler in 1923.). (It doesn't seem right to mix the Brown Shirts with other outfits, but it's a political movement named after outfits.) So what makes the difference?
In a way, this comes from the affinity of the yellow vest itself. But the decentralized nature of the sport may also play a role, which makes the vest even more important, becoming a unified clue and battle order. Protests without such uniforms seem to be rare in modern times, and because of this, they may be less effective. The occupation of Wall Street in 2011 lacked visual cohesion. The appearance of the protesters is diverse, and this clutter reflects their dissatisfaction.
"In the polity, the body of the dress is often the only opportunity for the underrepresented individual to participate in the negotiation of citizenship," Warncombe said. "It's everyday, it's participatory, it's collaborative and democratic."
France is a country that produces trousers, and fashion is considered a part of culture and heritage, as well as a tool for regime change. It is not surprising that this country can understand this.
It is no accident that shop windows of brands such as Chanel and Dior were smashed during the recent yellow vest riots. (Ironically, when the yellow vest method was first introduced in 2008, Chanel designer Karl Lagerfeld once advertised its ability to save lives in an advertisement.) An eye for an eye, clothes for clothes . Clothing once again presents the difference between the rich and the poor.