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通过桥梁认识巴黎

    Sometimes, when sleep eludes me in the dark hour before dawn, I make my way to the Pont de la Tournelle, the 400-foot bridge that links the ?le Saint-Louis to Paris’s Left Bank. I plant myself at its midpoint, face west and wait. Before me is the skeletal back of Notre-Dame, shrouded in darkness.

    有时候,当黎明来临前的黑夜里,我无法入睡时,我便到达了蓬图尔内尔桥(Pont de la Tournelle),这是一座400英尺高的桥,将圣路易岛与巴黎的左岸相连。我将自己种植在中点,面向西并等待。在我面前是巴黎圣母院的骨骼后背,笼罩在黑暗中。

    I watch as the sky moves from blue-black to deep blue velvet to soft gray, then light blue. The delicate architectural details of the cathedral gradually reveal themselves, until finally, the early morning sun bathes them in warm orange hues.

    我看着天空从蓝黑色变成深蓝色的天鹅绒再变成柔和的灰色,然后变成浅蓝色。大教堂的精致建筑细节逐渐展现出来,直到最后,清晨的阳光将它们浸入温暖的橙色。

    The back side of Notre-Dame is the creation of Eugène Emmanuel Viollet-le-Duc, the young architect in charge of the cathedral’s restoration in the 19th century. It looks nothing like the grandiose main entrance, whose hundreds of Medieval stone carvings make it one of the most recognizable images of Paris around the world.

    巴黎圣母院的背面是EugèneEmmanuel Viollet-le-Duc的创作,EugèneEmmanuel Viollet-le-Duc是负责19世纪大教堂修复工作的年轻建筑师。它看起来不像宏伟的正门,其数百个中世纪石雕使之成为世界上最知名的巴黎图像之一。

    The view from behind is different from what it was just a few months ago. During the great fire of April 15, 2019, the cathedral lost the spire that Viollet-le-Duc erected, and sections of the roof are hidden under protective scaffolding. But the structure still shows its splendor at night, the flat, dark silhouette of its flying buttresses visible through the trees.

    从后面看的景色与几个月前不同。在2019年4月15日的大火中,大教堂失去了Viollet-le-Duc竖立的尖顶,屋顶的某些部分被隐藏在保护性脚手架下。但是,该结构在夜间仍能展现出其辉煌的色彩,从树上可以看到其平坦的支撑架的平坦,黑暗的轮廓。

纽约时报中英文网 http://www.qqenglish.com/

    I am never alone when I come here. Sitting atop a tall, stark pylon on the southeastern bank of the bridge is the 1928 statue of Sainte Geneviève, the patron saint of Paris. The fifth-century saint is portrayed as a young woman, her hands on the shoulders of a child who represents the city. During her lifetime, Geneviève predicted that Attila and his Mongol hordes would spare Paris from massacre and destruction; after she was proved right, she was heralded as the savior of Paris. These days, she looks out on the water — and perhaps down on me — like a silent protector.

    当我来到这里时,我永远不会孤单。 1928年,巴黎的守护神SainteGeneviève雕像坐在桥东南岸的一座高大,鲜明的塔顶上。这位五世纪的圣徒被描绘成一个年轻女子,她的手放在一个代表城市的孩子的肩膀上。吉内维芙(Geneviève)一生预测,阿提拉(Attila)和他的蒙古部落将使巴黎免于屠杀和破坏。事实证明她是对的之后,她被誉为巴黎的救世主。这些天来,她像静默的保护者一样,望着水面,甚至低头看着我。

    The Seine begins to awaken at dawn. The first barges of the morning move downstream. The river police begin their patrols in fast-moving inflatable boats. The garbage trucks rumble along the quays picking up the refuse from the revelry the night before. Dogs bark. Crows caw. 纽约时报中英文网 http://www.qqenglish.com

    塞纳河在黎明开始苏醒。早晨的第一批驳船向下游移动。河警开始在快速移动的充气艇中巡逻。垃圾车沿着码头嗡嗡作响,前一天晚上从狂欢中捡起垃圾。狗吠。乌鸦

    I have found on the Pont de la Tournelle a special place and time in which to make Paris my own.

    我在蓬图尔图尔内勒(Pont de la Tournelle)上找到了使巴黎成为我自己的特殊地方和时间。

    All that contemplation whets my appetite, and from here, I walk along the quay on the Left Bank until I reach Le Depart Saint-Michel, a 24-hour café-brasserie. A touristy place to avoid at lunch and dinner, it is a great place for people-watching over an omelet and an espresso at early rush hour and a fitting way to savor the magic of a Seine River bridge at dawn.

    所有这些沉思使我食欲不振,从这里,我沿着左岸码头走,直到到达24小时营业的咖啡馆Le Depart Saint-Michel。这是一个在午餐和晚餐时避免使用的旅游胜地,是人们在高峰期观看煎蛋卷和浓缩咖啡的理想之地,也是在黎明时品尝塞纳河大桥的魔力的合适之选。

    Study Paris through its bridges, and you have a mosaic of the city’s history and architecture.

    通过巴黎的桥梁来研究巴黎,您会发现这座城市的历史和建筑特色。

    There are 35 bridges crossing the eight-mile span from one end of Paris to the other, starting at the Pont National upstream to the Pont du Garigliano, the last bridge as the river moves to the sea (the number is 37 if you count the Boulevard Périphérique, the utilitarian highway that rings the city and crosses the river upstream at Charenton/Bercy and downstream at Saint-Cloud/Issy).

    从巴黎的一端到另一端的八英里跨度有35座桥梁,从国家桥上游一直延伸到加里格利诺桥,这是河向海移动的最后一座桥(如果算上这条桥,则为37座) BoulevardPériphérique,一条通勤城市的实用公路,在Charenton / Bercy上游与河流交叉,在Saint-Cloud / Issy下游。

    Unesco celebrates 23 of the city’s bridges in its designation of the banks of the Seine — from the Pont de Sully, near Notre-Dame Cathedral to the Pont d’Iéna, at the Eiffel Tower — as a World Heritage cultural site.

    联合国教科文组织通过指定塞纳河沿岸为庆祝这座城市的23座桥梁-从巴黎圣母院附近的蓬德苏利桥到埃菲尔铁塔的埃纳桥,作为世界文化遗产。

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