New Delhi – Ed Dohring is a doctor in Arizona, USA. His lifelong dream is to climb the highest peak in Everest. But when he reached the top a few days ago, he was shocked by the sight.
The climbers shoved each other for self-portraits. The flat part of the peak is estimated to be as large as two table tennis tables, but it is crowded with about 15 to 20 people. To get up, he had to huddle with a group of people who were also wearing thick coats and queued for hours on thousands of feet of icy and rocky ridges.
He even had to circumvent the body of a woman who had just died.
“It’s terrible,” he said by phone during a break in a hotel room in Kathmandu, Nepal. "It's like a zoo."
This is one of the most deadly mountaineering seasons in Mount Everest, with at least 10 deaths. At least some of them seem to be avoidable.
The problem is not an avalanche, a blizzard or a gusty wind. Senior climbers and industry leaders believe that the overall reason is that there are too many people going up the mountain, specifically too many climbers are not experienced enough.
The expedition company that emerged overnight received untrained climbers and they threatened everyone on the mountain. Some experienced climbers say that the Nepalese government does not reject the income of mountaineering, and the mountaineering permit issued exceeds the safety bearing capacity of Mount Everest.
In addition, Mount Everest has an unparalleled appeal to the growing number of people around the world. As one of the poorest countries in Asia and the location of most climbing routes, Nepal has long been plagued by regulations, mismanagement and corruption.
The result is such a crowded, chaotic scene, as if the Lord of the Flies was staged at an altitude of 29,000 feet. At this height, even a delay of one or two hours is a matter of life.
其结果就是这样一幅拥挤、混乱的景象，仿佛《蝇王》(Lord of the Flies)在海拔2.9万英尺的高山上演。在这个高度，哪怕一两个小时的延迟都可能性命攸关。
In order to reach the summit, the climber unloads every pound of equipment that can be lost, and only carries it to the summit and returns to the compressed oxygen tank just enough. The climber said that at that height, you can't think clearly.
According to Sherpa and climbers, the cause of some fatal accidents this year was at about the last 1,000 feet. People were trapped in long queues and could not go up fast enough to replenish oxygen. Still others are in a state of health that is not suitable for Mount Everest.
Some climbers don't even know how to wear crampons, which are studs that add friction on the soles of the soles.
Nepal has no strict rules on who can climb Mount Everest, and senior climbers say it could be a disaster.
It is necessary to qualify for the triathlon, said Alan Arnette, a famous Everest chronologist and mountaineering expert. “I don’t need to climb the highest mountain in the world? Don’t you think there is something wrong with it?”
The last time 10 or more people died in Mount Everest was an avalanche in 2015.
In some respects, the chaos of Everest is intensifying.
Last year, senior climbers, insurance companies and news agencies revealed a wide range of scams. Guides, helicopter companies and medical institutions colluded to rescue millions of dollars from climbers who had only mild altitude sickness.
The climber complained of thieves on the mountain and piles of rubbish. Earlier this year, government investigators revealed that there are a lot of problems with the life-saving oxygen systems used by many climbers. The climber said that the oxygen tank has been found to have problems such as air leaks, explosions or improper filling on the black market.
But even if it has received complaints about security negligence, the Nepalese government has issued a record 381 licenses this year, which is part of the overall operation of Everest Commercialization. Climbers say the number of permits issued is rising steadily every year, and this year's congestion is more serious than ever.
“This situation will not improve,” said guide Lukas Furtenbach, who recently shifted his team of climbers due to the overcrowding on the Nepalese side and the surge in the number of inexperienced climbers. On the Chinese side of Mount Everest.
“The Nepalese government has many corruption problems,” he said. "They are how much they can fish."
Nepalese officials denied any misconduct and said that the safety of Everest should be the responsibility of the travel agency.
Of course, the action of the summit depends on the weather. May is the best time to reach the summit in a year, and even during this time, visibility and wind are just a few days to try to climb.
But senior climbers say one of the most serious problems of the year seems to be that there are especially many people trying to climb Mount Everest. There is no government traffic police on the mountain. When the mountaineering teams try to climb the last paragraph, they have to rely on the judgment of the mountaineering company.
At this time, the climbers themselves are eager to complete their own adventures, whether they have experience or not, so that they see the danger increase, but they continue to move forward.
A few decades ago, most of the climbers of Everest were experienced mountaineers who were willing to invest a lot of money. However, senior climbers said that in recent years, the low-cost street shops in the capital Kathmandu, even high-paying foreign companies that do not pay attention to safety, have entered the market and offered to provide summit services to almost anyone.
Sometimes there are extremely terrible conditions.
From the interviews of several climbers, it seems that as the pressure is getting closer and closer to the summit, some people will not be able to take care of the minimum.
Experienced Lebanese mountaineer Fatima Deryan recently climbed to the top of the mountain and found that the inexperienced climber began to fall in front of her. The temperature dropped to minus 30 degrees Celsius. The oxygen cylinder is also exhausted. About 150 people huddled together and squatted on the same safety cable.
“A lot of people are panicked and start worrying about themselves – no one has to control those who fall,” Delja said.
“This is an ethical issue,” she said. "We all rely on oxygen. You know that if you help others, you will die."
She said that she had proposed to help some sick people, but immediately realized that this was putting herself in danger and she continued to move to the top of the mountain, at a height of 29,029 feet. On the way down the mountain, she had to squeeze a path out of the crowd again.
It’s terrible, she said.