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失去餐馆帝国的杰米·奥利弗,如何让人“吃得更好”?

  LONDON – On Monday, near Monday, Jamie Oliver's slightly blessed apron surrounded the mortar and mashed peppermint and broad beans, which has been his favorite for years. kitchen tools.

  伦敦——最近一个周一,快到午餐时间,杰米·奥利弗(Jamie Oliver)略微发福的身上围了件围裙,开始用研钵和杵捣碎薄荷和蚕豆,多年来这一直是他最喜爱的厨房工具。

  The cute hair that was cut down from the stair railings 20 years ago as a “Naked Chef” from the stair railings and into the popular food culture has now been cut short. The 44-year-old Oliver feels more like a kind and disgusting high school teacher, rather than the guy who is in the food and television industry when he is in the limelight, and everyone wants to come close.

  20年前作为“原味主厨”(Naked Chef)从楼梯扶手滑下、扎入流行美食文化中时那一头可爱的乱发,如今已经剪短。现年44岁的奥利弗给人感觉更像是一位亲切而厌世的高中老师,而不是当年在美食电视界大红大紫的时候那个目中无人、爱说笑的家伙,人人都想来套近乎。

  Also, under his blue eyes, is it an eye bag?

  还有,他的蓝眼睛下面,是眼袋吗?

  Sorry, dear, he said as he seasoned the Dover flounder. "I am a little tired."

  “抱歉,亲爱的,”他一边给多佛比目鱼片调味,一边说道。“我有点儿累。”

  His day started before 6am. He sent the child to school and went to a place in North London where the warehouse was converted. It is now his headquarters. After lunch for a reporter, he had to meet with senior officials from Liverpool, Manchester, Birmingham and London. These officials came to his office to discuss a plan with him to halve the rate of childhood obesity by 2030. .

  他的一天,在早上6点前就开始了。他把孩子送到学校,然后去北伦敦一个由仓库改建的地方,现在是他的总部。给一名记者做了午饭后,他还得与来自利物浦、曼彻斯特、伯明翰及伦敦的高官见面,这些官员来他的办公室是要和他商谈出一个计划,在2030年前将儿童肥胖率减半。

  To make matters worse, he and his wife Juliette (all of whom call her Jools) were tired and half dead in the weekend to move into a $7.2 million 16th-century Tudor villa. The new house is not far from Oliver's parents in the Essex bar. (They still have the eight-bedroom townhouse in North London.)

  雪上加霜的是,他和妻子茱丽叶(Juliette,大家都管她叫茱尔斯[Jools])周末为了搬进一座720万美元的16世纪都铎式别墅,累了个半死。新房子离奥利弗父母在埃塞克斯的酒吧不远。(他们还留着北伦敦那幢八卧室联排别墅。)

  Of course, yes, they are moving, and it’s not the same as having a friend help move a mattress into a single apartment without a lift. But after moving, it’s moving, especially when you have five children, one of whom is a very excited three-year-old, all night, “all around me like a rattlesnake,” Oliver said.

  当然,没错,他们那种搬家,和让朋友帮忙把床垫搬进没有电梯的单身公寓不太一样。但搬家终归是搬家,尤其是当你有5个孩子,其中一个还是极度兴奋的三岁小孩,一整晚“都在我身边像响尾蛇一样蹦个不停,”奥利弗说。

  It wasn’t just that he didn’t sleep well the night before, and he moved into a new home and the schedule was too full. "In the past four years, I may have been pushed to the limits of my personal."

  让他感到疲倦的不只是前一晚没睡好,搬入新家以及日程排得太满。“过去四年里,我可能已经被推到了个人的极限。”

  In May, Jamie Oliver Restaurant Group entered the management process, a form of bankruptcy protection. It is reported that the company owes nearly 83 million pounds (about 730 million yuan). Oliver said that he did his best to maintain his business. But after closing some restaurants, injecting 15 million of his own funds into the company, and finding new investors, he gave up. He either closed or sold a total of 25 restaurants and fired more than 1,000 people.

  五月的时候,杰米·奥利弗餐馆集团进入管理程序——一种破产保护的形式。有消息说公司欠债近8300万英镑(约7.3亿元人民币)。奥利弗说他尽了最大努力维持经营。但在关闭一些餐馆、将相当于1500万的自有资金注入公司,以及寻找新投资者后,他放弃了。他或关闭、或出售了共计25家餐厅,解雇了超过1000人。

  Closing his first restaurant, the trendy London Fifteen restaurant, made him the most sad. In 2002, he opened the restaurant to provide training to unemployed young people, many of whom were poor, teaching them how to prepare a tasting menu, making fresh pasta, and managing a lobby for a sophisticated restaurant.

  关闭他的第一家餐馆——时髦的伦敦“十五”(Fifteen)餐厅——让他最为难过。2002年,他开设了这家餐厅以便向无业年轻人提供培训,这些人许多出身贫寒,他教他们如何准备品鉴菜单,制作新鲜意大利面,以及管理一间考究餐馆的大堂。

  That was the hardest thing I had to do, he said as he talked about the closing of the restaurant. "Too bad. Terrible."

  “那是我不得不做的事情中最困难的一件了,”他谈及餐厅的关门时说。“太糟糕了。可怕。”

  It's easy to see a little Icarus in Oliver or see his legend as a high-achiever student's lesson. But it is still too early to start profound reflection, and that is not what he is good at.

  很容易在奥利弗身上看到一点伊卡洛斯(Icarus)的影子,或是将他的传奇故事看作一个高成就者的人生教训。但现在开始深刻反思还为时尚早,而且那也不是他擅长的事。

  He had a poor grade in reading, but he was familiar with the kitchen and went to the cooking school. When he was the deputy chef at the River Café, a BBC crew went there to shoot a documentary. A clever filmmaker saw that he was very on the mirror.

  他读书成绩很差,但却对厨房轻车熟路,于是进了烹饪学校。当他在河畔咖啡馆(River Café)担任副主厨时,一个BBC摄制组到那里拍摄一部纪录片。一个聪明的制片人看出他非常上镜。

  In 1999, "Original Chef" premiered on the BBC2 in the UK and a year later on the Food Network in the United States. The show was shot in a swaying manner, and his style was full of energy. Oliver couldn't speak when he was directly facing the camera, so the producer stood outside the picture and asked him questions. 纽约时报中英文网 http://www.qqenglish.com

  1999年,《原味主厨》在英国的BBC2台首播,一年后在美国的美食频道(Food Network)播出。节目采用了摇摇晃晃的方式拍摄,而他的风格是充满活力的。奥利弗在直接对着镜头时会说不出话来,于是制片人就站在画外问他问题。

  Oliver won the endorsement contract for Sainsbury’s, the UK's second-largest supermarket chain, which lasted for 11 years and earned him nearly $12 million. He wrote a best-selling recipe. For a person in his early 20s, this is a considerable achievement.

  奥利弗获得了英国第二大连锁超市塞恩斯伯里(Sainsbury’s)的代言合约,这份合约后来持续了11年,让他挣了将近1200万美元。他写了一本畅销食谱。对于一个20出头的人来说,这是相当大的成就了。

  In 2008, with the help of his master, Italian chef Gennaro Contaldo, he opened his first Jamie’s Italian restaurant. The restaurant's intention is to subvert the mid-range food market. Meat has a record of animal welfare. Butter is organic. The salary is good and the price is not expensive.

  2008年,在他的师傅、意大利大厨詹纳罗·孔塔尔多(Gennaro Contaldo)的帮助下,他开办了自己的首家杰米意式餐厅(Jamie’s Italian)。餐馆的意图是颠覆中端餐饮市场。肉有动物福利记录。黄油是有机的。薪水不错,价格也不贵。

  The restaurant has been full since its opening. He opened other chains, including Barbecoa, a collaboration with American chef Adam Perry Lang, two high-end steak and grill restaurants. At its peak, Oliver sold 7.5 million meals a year and employed 4,500 people.

  餐馆从开张起一直爆满。他开了其他连锁,包括与美国大厨亚当·佩里·朗(Adam Perry Lang)合作的Barbecoa——两家高端牛排及烧烤餐厅。在巅峰时期,奥利弗一年售出750万顿餐食,雇佣了4500人。

  It is rarely a single thing to let a big company fall, and Oliver is fighting with several dragons at the same time. Both the tax and the price of the raw materials he likes have risen. The rent is the same, especially in the fast-disappearing neighborhood. But he is still expanding, sometimes expanding to neighborhoods where there are not enough customers.

  让一个大企业倒下的很少是单单一件事,而奥利弗是在同一时间与好几条恶龙缠斗。税金和他喜欢的原料价格都有所上涨。房租也是一样,尤其是在迅速士绅化的街区。但他依然在扩张,有时候扩张到了那些没有足够顾客的街区。

  Casual dining has become a profitable trade to attract investors, and the market is fiercely competitive. People start using the food delivery app instead of going out to eat. After the British referendum decided to leave the European Union in 2016, the pound fell. Retail spending plummeted. Critics began to complain about the dishes and services of his restaurant.

  休闲餐饮成了吸引投资人的赚钱买卖,市场竞争激烈。人们开始使用送餐应用,而不是出门吃饭。2016年英国公投决定离开欧盟后,英镑下跌。零售业的支出暴跌。批评人士开始对他的餐馆的菜品和服务怨声载道。

  Things don't look so smooth.

  事情看起来不那么顺风顺水了。

  I can't think of any good explanation, he said. "I thought I could solve it, but I can't. I can feel the conscience, I definitely tried everything, until the last moment. We have no money. It's that simple."

  “我想不出什么好听点的解释,”他说。“我以为我能解决,但我不能。我可以摸着良心说,我绝对是尝试了一切途径,直至最后一刻。我们没钱了。就这么简单。”

  Although he still has a lot of fans, there are also critics - always there. They ridiculed his accent as "Imitating Cockey" and thought that the new school lunch rule was a problem for him, which removed the turkey twist (basically the meat roll). With a $6 million contract with Shell to sell healthier Oliver branded food at the latter's gas station, they say he is hypocritical, although he has been working hard to fight climate change.

  尽管他还是有很多拥趸,但也有批评者——一直都有。他们嘲笑他的口音是“仿考克尼”,认为新的学校午餐规定是他造成的问题,该规定去掉了火鸡肉麻花(基本上就是肉版的卷卷薯条)之类的食品。由于和壳牌达成了一份600万美元的合约,在后者的加油站卖较为健康的奥利弗品牌食品,他们说他虚伪,尽管他一直在努力抗击气候变化。

  When his empire collapsed, the gossip tabloid was especially cruel.

  当他的帝国轰然瓦解时,八卦小报尤其残忍。

  “The British mindset is somewhat happy to see successful people become embarrassed,” said foodie Nigella Lawson. "In this country, if you want to make the world a better place, you will be ridiculed."

  “英国人的心态有些乐于看到成功人士变得狼狈不堪,”美食作者尼盖尔·劳森(Nigella Lawson)说。“在这个国家,如果你想让这个世界变得更好,是会受到嘲笑的。”

  For a person who has gained great fame when he was so young, it is difficult to cope with the business world, she said. "It's good to say something about his positives, because he's not easy recently," she said. "I never doubt he can turn things around."

纽约时报中英文网 http://www.qqenglish.com/

  对一个在如此年轻时就获得了巨大名气的人来说,要应付商业世界是很难的,她说。“说点关于他的正面的事挺好的,因为他最近实在不容易,”她说。“我从不怀疑他能扭转局面。”

  In many ways, leaving the restaurant industry is a relief for Oliver. His empire is now smaller and has only about 120 employees. He spends most of his day doing what he loves: cooking, talking about cooking, making cooking about it, and working hard to make the world's diet healthier.

  从很多方面来说,离开餐馆业对奥利弗是个解脱。他的帝国如今规模变小,只有约120名员工。他每天大部分时候都在做自己喜爱的事情:烹饪,谈论烹饪,制作关于烹饪的内容,并努力让这个世界的饮食更健康。

  Oliver's other business projects are still very profitable. He has sold 27 million Tefal kitchen utensils, and it's easy to find his kitchen gadgets on Amazon.com. He recently signed a contract to become the health ambassador of Tesco, the UK's largest chain of department stores.

  奥利弗的其他经营项目仍然很赚钱。他已经卖出了2700万件特福牌(Tefal)厨具,要在亚马逊网站上找到他的厨房小工具也很容易。最近他签下了一份合约,将成为英国最大连锁百货乐购(Tesco)的健康大使。

  Oliver has an incredible ability to connect with the audience, which allows him to leap into digital content, while other food media stars in the same period of time are struggling to port their content for TV to YouTube.

  奥利弗有着能与受众建立起联系的不可思议的能力,这让他得以跃入数字内容,而其他和他同期的美食媒体明星,在把为电视制作的内容移植到YouTube这样的平台方面举步维艰。

  He basically doesn't go to Twitter -- "that platform won't make me happier" - but he's on Instagram, where he has 7.3 million fans. His YouTube channel Jamie Oliver’s Food Tube has 4.4 million subscribers. Saskia Wirth, director of communications at the Jamie Oliver Group, says he averages more than 30 million fans per month on social media, and his global TV audience is 67 million.

  他基本上不上Twitter——“那个平台不会让我变得更快乐”——但他在Instagram上大展拳脚,他在那里拥有730万粉丝。他的YouTube频道Jamie Oliver’s Food Tube拥有440万订户。杰米·奥利弗集团的传播主管萨斯基亚·沃斯(Saskia Wirth)说,他每个月在社交媒体上平均可触及超过3000万粉丝,而他的全球电视观众有6700万。

  However, selling books is still the engine of Oliver's machine: he has sold more than 45 million copies - Nielsen Book Research's data shows that it was worth $7.4 million last year alone - he is the UK The best-selling non-fiction author. For a while, only J.K. Rowling could surpass him.

  然而,卖书仍然是奥利弗这台机器的引擎:他已经卖出了超过4500万本——尼尔森图书研究(Nielsen Book Research)的数据显示,仅仅去年一年就价值740万美元——他是英国最畅销的非虚构类作者。有一段时间,只有J·K·罗琳(J.K. Rowling)能超过他。

  Oliver suffers from dyslexia, and according to him, his attention is also surprisingly short. He likes to dictate his own books instead of writing them down. From casual food to super food, the theme of his book is very fast. He made 30 minutes of dishes, 15 minutes of dishes and five kinds of raw materials. He wrote a recipe for zucchini cheese macaroni for a family recipe. In 2018, he also explained the dishes he had learned from his grandmother.

  奥利弗患有阅读障碍,另外据他说他的注意长度也出奇地短。他喜欢口述自己的书,而不是写下它们。从休闲食品到超级食物,他写书的主题紧随时代。他制作了30分钟菜、15分钟菜和五种原料菜。他为一本家庭食谱写下了西葫芦芝士通心粉的菜谱。在2018年,他还诠释了自己从意大利奶奶那里学来的菜品。

  One of his latest recipes is "Veg: Easy & Delicious Meals for Everyone". The version for the US market (titled "Ultimate Veg") will be available in January.

  他最新出版的一本食谱是《蔬菜:每个人都能享受的简单美味菜肴》(Veg: Easy & Delicious Meals for Everyone)。面向美国市场的版本(书名叫做《终极蔬菜》[Ultimate Veg])将于一月面世。

  Some people say that his book is copying other people's ideas, and he does not agree with this. “No one has five raw materials or 30 minutes of copyright,” he said.

  有人说他的书是在抄别人的想法,对此他不以为然。“没人拥有五种原料或是30分钟菜的版权,”他说。

  Then there is his mission. Solving the problems of the food system is second only to his family in his mind. He launched a number of actions, through television shows, documentaries, and a variety of political pressures. These include improving school meals, improving the environment for raising chickens, reducing food waste, and helping to pass a tax on sugary drinks. The most recent one is to reduce the advertising of fat-containing, sugar-containing foods targeted at children.

  然后,还有他的使命。解决食物系统的问题,在他的心目中重要性仅次于他的家人。他发起了大量的行动,通过电视节目、纪录片以及各种各样的政治压力进行。其中包括改善学校膳食、改善鸡只饲养环境、减少食物浪费、帮助通过一项针对含糖饮料的征税,最近的一个,是减少以儿童为目标的含脂肪、含糖食物广告。

  His "Ministry of Food" is an eight-week community cooking class, and now the program has entered its 11th year, training nearly 100,000 people to cook healthier food. His new Polaris is the 2030 project, a unified action that coordinates health and government organizations, and strives to halve the rate of childhood obesity by 2030, and he talks about the project as soon as he talks about it.

  他的“食品部”(Ministry of Food)是一个为期八周的社区烹饪课,如今项目已进入了第11年,培训近10万人烹制更健康的食物。他的新北极星是2030项目,一个协调各健康和政府组织的统一行动,努力在2030年前实现儿童肥胖率减半,他一说起这个项目就滔滔不绝。

  That's why government officials who walked past the experimental kitchen an hour ago are still waiting for him to finish the lunch. He ignored the communication supervisor who had been careful to remind him that he should end. He has a few more points to say at the end.

  这就是为什么一小时前从实验厨房走过的政府官员仍在等着他吃完午餐。他没有理会一直在小心提醒他该结束了的传讯主管。他最后还有几点要说。

  If I want to reflect on it, I have experienced the best and experienced the worst, he said. "I have learned a lot. I am smelling it in different ways. I look at it differently. It doesn't mean I become a cynic. I think I have 20 years of good time to work, but I am not interested." I saw my name in restaurants all over the world."

  “如果要反思的话,我经历过最好的,也经历过最糟的,”他说。“我学到了很多。我在用不同的方式去嗅闻。用不同的方式去看。这不意味着我变得犬儒了。我觉得我还有20年的大好时光去工作,但我没有兴趣看到自己的名字在遍布全球的餐馆里了。”

  He just wants people to eat better, no matter what their economic situation. Who else is better suited to take on this impossible task than him?

  他只想让人们能吃得更好,不管他们的经济情况如何。还有谁比他更适合承担起这项不可能的任务呢?

  What you need is not a person who is constantly successful, he said. "What you want is someone like me."

  “你需要的不是一个不断成功的人,”他说。“你要的是我这样的人。”

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