LONDON – On Monday, near Monday, Jamie Oliver's slightly blessed apron surrounded the mortar and mashed peppermint and broad beans, which has been his favorite for years. kitchen tools.
The cute hair that was cut down from the stair railings 20 years ago as a “Naked Chef” from the stair railings and into the popular food culture has now been cut short. The 44-year-old Oliver feels more like a kind and disgusting high school teacher, rather than the guy who is in the food and television industry when he is in the limelight, and everyone wants to come close.
Also, under his blue eyes, is it an eye bag?
Sorry, dear, he said as he seasoned the Dover flounder. "I am a little tired."
His day started before 6am. He sent the child to school and went to a place in North London where the warehouse was converted. It is now his headquarters. After lunch for a reporter, he had to meet with senior officials from Liverpool, Manchester, Birmingham and London. These officials came to his office to discuss a plan with him to halve the rate of childhood obesity by 2030. .
To make matters worse, he and his wife Juliette (all of whom call her Jools) were tired and half dead in the weekend to move into a $7.2 million 16th-century Tudor villa. The new house is not far from Oliver's parents in the Essex bar. (They still have the eight-bedroom townhouse in North London.)
Of course, yes, they are moving, and it’s not the same as having a friend help move a mattress into a single apartment without a lift. But after moving, it’s moving, especially when you have five children, one of whom is a very excited three-year-old, all night, “all around me like a rattlesnake,” Oliver said.
It wasn’t just that he didn’t sleep well the night before, and he moved into a new home and the schedule was too full. "In the past four years, I may have been pushed to the limits of my personal."
In May, Jamie Oliver Restaurant Group entered the management process, a form of bankruptcy protection. It is reported that the company owes nearly 83 million pounds (about 730 million yuan). Oliver said that he did his best to maintain his business. But after closing some restaurants, injecting 15 million of his own funds into the company, and finding new investors, he gave up. He either closed or sold a total of 25 restaurants and fired more than 1,000 people.
Closing his first restaurant, the trendy London Fifteen restaurant, made him the most sad. In 2002, he opened the restaurant to provide training to unemployed young people, many of whom were poor, teaching them how to prepare a tasting menu, making fresh pasta, and managing a lobby for a sophisticated restaurant.
That was the hardest thing I had to do, he said as he talked about the closing of the restaurant. "Too bad. Terrible."
It's easy to see a little Icarus in Oliver or see his legend as a high-achiever student's lesson. But it is still too early to start profound reflection, and that is not what he is good at.
He had a poor grade in reading, but he was familiar with the kitchen and went to the cooking school. When he was the deputy chef at the River Café, a BBC crew went there to shoot a documentary. A clever filmmaker saw that he was very on the mirror.
In 1999, "Original Chef" premiered on the BBC2 in the UK and a year later on the Food Network in the United States. The show was shot in a swaying manner, and his style was full of energy. Oliver couldn't speak when he was directly facing the camera, so the producer stood outside the picture and asked him questions.
Oliver won the endorsement contract for Sainsbury’s, the UK's second-largest supermarket chain, which lasted for 11 years and earned him nearly $12 million. He wrote a best-selling recipe. For a person in his early 20s, this is a considerable achievement.
In 2008, with the help of his master, Italian chef Gennaro Contaldo, he opened his first Jamie’s Italian restaurant. The restaurant's intention is to subvert the mid-range food market. Meat has a record of animal welfare. Butter is organic. The salary is good and the price is not expensive.
2008年，在他的师傅、意大利大厨詹纳罗·孔塔尔多(Gennaro Contaldo)的帮助下，他开办了自己的首家杰米意式餐厅(Jamie’s Italian)。餐馆的意图是颠覆中端餐饮市场。肉有动物福利记录。黄油是有机的。薪水不错，价格也不贵。
The restaurant has been full since its opening. He opened other chains, including Barbecoa, a collaboration with American chef Adam Perry Lang, two high-end steak and grill restaurants. At its peak, Oliver sold 7.5 million meals a year and employed 4,500 people.
餐馆从开张起一直爆满。他开了其他连锁，包括与美国大厨亚当·佩里·朗(Adam Perry Lang)合作的Barbecoa——两家高端牛排及烧烤餐厅。在巅峰时期，奥利弗一年售出750万顿餐食，雇佣了4500人。
It is rarely a single thing to let a big company fall, and Oliver is fighting with several dragons at the same time. Both the tax and the price of the raw materials he likes have risen. The rent is the same, especially in the fast-disappearing neighborhood. But he is still expanding, sometimes expanding to neighborhoods where there are not enough customers.
Casual dining has become a profitable trade to attract investors, and the market is fiercely competitive. People start using the food delivery app instead of going out to eat. After the British referendum decided to leave the European Union in 2016, the pound fell. Retail spending plummeted. Critics began to complain about the dishes and services of his restaurant.
Things don't look so smooth.
I can't think of any good explanation, he said. "I thought I could solve it, but I can't. I can feel the conscience, I definitely tried everything, until the last moment. We have no money. It's that simple."
Although he still has a lot of fans, there are also critics - always there. They ridiculed his accent as "Imitating Cockey" and thought that the new school lunch rule was a problem for him, which removed the turkey twist (basically the meat roll). With a $6 million contract with Shell to sell healthier Oliver branded food at the latter's gas station, they say he is hypocritical, although he has been working hard to fight climate change.
When his empire collapsed, the gossip tabloid was especially cruel.
“The British mindset is somewhat happy to see successful people become embarrassed,” said foodie Nigella Lawson. "In this country, if you want to make the world a better place, you will be ridiculed."
For a person who has gained great fame when he was so young, it is difficult to cope with the business world, she said. "It's good to say something about his positives, because he's not easy recently," she said. "I never doubt he can turn things around."
In many ways, leaving the restaurant industry is a relief for Oliver. His empire is now smaller and has only about 120 employees. He spends most of his day doing what he loves: cooking, talking about cooking, making cooking about it, and working hard to make the world's diet healthier.
Oliver's other business projects are still very profitable. He has sold 27 million Tefal kitchen utensils, and it's easy to find his kitchen gadgets on Amazon.com. He recently signed a contract to become the health ambassador of Tesco, the UK's largest chain of department stores.
Oliver has an incredible ability to connect with the audience, which allows him to leap into digital content, while other food media stars in the same period of time are struggling to port their content for TV to YouTube.
He basically doesn't go to Twitter -- "that platform won't make me happier" - but he's on Instagram, where he has 7.3 million fans. His YouTube channel Jamie Oliver’s Food Tube has 4.4 million subscribers. Saskia Wirth, director of communications at the Jamie Oliver Group, says he averages more than 30 million fans per month on social media, and his global TV audience is 67 million.
他基本上不上Twitter——“那个平台不会让我变得更快乐”——但他在Instagram上大展拳脚，他在那里拥有730万粉丝。他的YouTube频道Jamie Oliver’s Food Tube拥有440万订户。杰米·奥利弗集团的传播主管萨斯基亚·沃斯(Saskia Wirth)说，他每个月在社交媒体上平均可触及超过3000万粉丝，而他的全球电视观众有6700万。
However, selling books is still the engine of Oliver's machine: he has sold more than 45 million copies - Nielsen Book Research's data shows that it was worth $7.4 million last year alone - he is the UK The best-selling non-fiction author. For a while, only J.K. Rowling could surpass him.
然而，卖书仍然是奥利弗这台机器的引擎：他已经卖出了超过4500万本——尼尔森图书研究(Nielsen Book Research)的数据显示，仅仅去年一年就价值740万美元——他是英国最畅销的非虚构类作者。有一段时间，只有J·K·罗琳(J.K. Rowling)能超过他。
Oliver suffers from dyslexia, and according to him, his attention is also surprisingly short. He likes to dictate his own books instead of writing them down. From casual food to super food, the theme of his book is very fast. He made 30 minutes of dishes, 15 minutes of dishes and five kinds of raw materials. He wrote a recipe for zucchini cheese macaroni for a family recipe. In 2018, he also explained the dishes he had learned from his grandmother.
One of his latest recipes is "Veg: Easy & Delicious Meals for Everyone". The version for the US market (titled "Ultimate Veg") will be available in January.
他最新出版的一本食谱是《蔬菜：每个人都能享受的简单美味菜肴》(Veg: Easy & Delicious Meals for Everyone)。面向美国市场的版本（书名叫做《终极蔬菜》[Ultimate Veg]）将于一月面世。
Some people say that his book is copying other people's ideas, and he does not agree with this. “No one has five raw materials or 30 minutes of copyright,” he said.
Then there is his mission. Solving the problems of the food system is second only to his family in his mind. He launched a number of actions, through television shows, documentaries, and a variety of political pressures. These include improving school meals, improving the environment for raising chickens, reducing food waste, and helping to pass a tax on sugary drinks. The most recent one is to reduce the advertising of fat-containing, sugar-containing foods targeted at children.
His "Ministry of Food" is an eight-week community cooking class, and now the program has entered its 11th year, training nearly 100,000 people to cook healthier food. His new Polaris is the 2030 project, a unified action that coordinates health and government organizations, and strives to halve the rate of childhood obesity by 2030, and he talks about the project as soon as he talks about it.
他的“食品部”(Ministry of Food)是一个为期八周的社区烹饪课，如今项目已进入了第11年，培训近10万人烹制更健康的食物。他的新北极星是2030项目，一个协调各健康和政府组织的统一行动，努力在2030年前实现儿童肥胖率减半，他一说起这个项目就滔滔不绝。
That's why government officials who walked past the experimental kitchen an hour ago are still waiting for him to finish the lunch. He ignored the communication supervisor who had been careful to remind him that he should end. He has a few more points to say at the end.
If I want to reflect on it, I have experienced the best and experienced the worst, he said. "I have learned a lot. I am smelling it in different ways. I look at it differently. It doesn't mean I become a cynic. I think I have 20 years of good time to work, but I am not interested." I saw my name in restaurants all over the world."
He just wants people to eat better, no matter what their economic situation. Who else is better suited to take on this impossible task than him?
What you need is not a person who is constantly successful, he said. "What you want is someone like me."