Three days before Thanksgiving, there was a flurry of activity at the Kau Kau BBQ Market & Restaurant, a signature Seattle Chinatown Restaurant specializing in Chinese barbecue. The restaurant hired at least two extra cooks to wash, pickle and dry the Turkey 24 hours a day and then brush the juice into an already full oven: qiaoqiao used the same process to make the roast duck, the crispy spiced Turkey.
感恩节前的三天，巧巧海鲜烧腊饭店(Kau Kau BBQ Market & Restaurant)一片忙乱，这是西雅图华埠主打中式烧烤的一家招牌餐厅。餐厅至少多雇了两名厨师，帮忙一天24小时清洗、腌渍、风干火鸡，然后刷汁塞进已经满满当当的烤箱里烤：巧巧用制作烤鸭的同样流程制作的脆皮五香火鸡。
For that reason, the restaurant can only sell about 80 turkeys a year at most, said Richard Chang, who co-owns qiaoqiao with his wife, Lynn eng-chang.
与妻子张林英（Lynn Eng-Chang，音）共同拥有巧巧的理查德·张（Richard Chang，音）说，出于这个原因，餐厅每年最多只能卖大约80只火鸡。
We have to stop there because we can't do any more, he said.
The restaurant, owned by his father-in-law, has been cooking Turkey for the holiday since the 1970s, initially in response to requests from some customers, Mr. Zhang said. Today, they typically receive a first-come-first-served Turkey order in early November, either from a new customer or a regular customer -- a tradition they helped create.
If they don't order, we're usually a little worried, Mr. Zhang said. "We hope they're all right."
At cantonese barbecues, Asian supermarkets and Chinese restaurants across the United States, one day of the year, roast duck, soy-sauce chicken, char siu and crispy pork may be thrown aside for a round Turkey. The chinese-style roasted Turkey, available at 99 Ranch Market and mom-and-my stores, is often served with glutinous rice, steamed buns and hoisin sauce, and for many Chinese americans, they are a good way to inject their influence into Thanksgiving. Customers of all backgrounds are embracing this innovative dish that was born in the United States.
在美国各地的粤式烧烤店、亚洲超市和中餐馆，一年中总有一天，烤鸭、酱油鸡、叉烧和脆皮烧肉可能会被人们抛到一边，转而享用圆滚滚的火鸡。这种中式烧烤火鸡可以从大华超级市场(99 Ranch Market)和夫妻档店铺买到，一般会配上糯米、馒头和海鲜酱，对很多华裔美国人而言，它们是往感恩节中注入自己的影响的一个好办法。各种背景的顾客都在接受这道诞生于美国的创新菜。
Every place does it slightly differently. But the main attraction of a Turkey cooked in China's long process of professional grilling is juicy, delicious meat.
The U.S. approach could be a little dry, Mr. Chang said. "Chinese style method wants embellish a few."
Chinese barbecue chefs typically fill the Turkey cavity with a wet paste of marinade, which may include roasted dried spices, Onions, garlic, ginger and a lot of salt, hours in advance, and then close the cavity with skewers instead of filling it with bread stuffing.
This technique is called "in-curing," in which the Turkey is cured while it is hung -- usually with its neck -- to dry, which is necessary to make the skin crisp. The marinade also helps keep the meat moist when it is roasted. (unlike the American style of dry-marinated Turkey, in which the skin is coated with a drier layer of salt and spices, this Chinese marinade only goes into the Turkey's cavity.)
It's a practice that has been honing for years at Hing Lung, a cantonese grill in Chinatown, San Francisco, owned by brothers Eric and Simon Cheung. Their father started working at the store in the 1980s, studying to become a grill master. He passed this knowledge on to his two sons, although the brothers made minor changes to the classic recipes. That includes the restaurant's Thanksgiving Turkey, which was served before their father came to work.
这是兴隆(Hing Lung)多年来一直在改进的一种做法，这家旧金山华埠的粤式烧烤店店主是埃里克·郑(Eric Cheung)和西蒙·郑(Simon Cheung)兄弟俩。他们的父亲于20世纪80年代开始在这家店工作，学习成为一名烧烤师傅。他把这些知识传给了两个儿子，尽管兄弟俩对这些经典食谱做了些小的修改。其中包括这家店的感恩节火鸡，这道菜在他们的父亲进入这家店工作之前就已经有了。
For their popular Turkey, the zhengs dry coat the inside of the cavity with Chinese spices like star anise and licorice, then fill it with a mixture of Onions, garlic and celery. Next, string the Turkey like a duck, close the chamber, blanch it in hot water, tighten the skin, remove any seasoning mixture, coat with vinegar, and hang for 12 hours. There has been a lot of trial and error over the years; The Turkey had to be thrown away because it was too heavy and fell off the hook. But the brothers are now able to cope with larger birds.
To further differentiate himself from other Chinese barbecue restaurants in the region, Eric zheng used chicken neck, gizzard and liver to make a southern-style creamy gravy to match their Turkey -- a change he said was inspired by his favorite Fried chicken steaks at restaurants like IHOP.
For prosperous customers, who are mostly chinese-americans, Turkey provides a balance that allows them to incorporate American holiday customs without sacrificing flavor. After all, what could be more American than doing what you want?
They want to celebrate the Thanksgiving tradition, but they can't accept the American Turkey, Eric chung said.
And American turkeys are hard to make. Large turkeys tend to make light, dry chests and blackened wing tips, a challenge for any home cook. This is especially true when Turkey is not part of your cultural culinary tradition.
Justine Lee, who grew up in the bay area in the 1980s and 1990s with parents who immigrated from Taiwan, said her mother tried to cook Turkey with an American cookbook one year. 'it was torture,' he said.
She was so worried about the Turkey that she didn't have time to think about much else, Ms. Lee said. "I remember it was ok at the end, but at the end my mom said, 'I just don't think it's worth the effort. '" since then, the family has been buying Thanksgiving turkeys from Marina Food, a small California grocery store.
While many chinese-american families choose not to bother with the Turkey, in some cases it is inevitable. About 30 years ago, chinese-americans in Chicago began taking raw turkeys from their employers to Sun Wah BBQ's for Thanksgiving. Many were completely unaccustomed to using their ovens, let alone such a large chicken, so they turned to the restaurant for help. (ovens are not typical of Chinese kitchens, where most cooking takes place on the hearth.)
虽然许多华裔美国家庭选择不去为火鸡费心，但在某些情况下，这无法避免。大约30年前，芝加哥的华裔美国人开始带着从雇主那里得到的感恩节礼品生火鸡去新华烧腊(Sun Wah BBQ)店。许多人完全不习惯使用他们的烤箱，更不用说这么大的鸡，于是他们向餐厅求助。（烤箱并非中国家庭厨房的典型配置，大多数中国家庭烹饪都在灶台上进行。）
Asians generally don't really know how to cook a Turkey, said Kelly Cheng, whose family runs the xinhua roast. "That's not what we usually eat."
But xinhua has a professional kitchen and oven. Have the wisdom of roasting poultry. The only thing to be replaced is the type of poultry. 'that's where the roast Turkey comes from,' says Ms. Zheng.
The restaurant now handles about 120 Thanksgiving Turkey orders. Ms. Zheng, a second-generation member of the company, acknowledged that the operation had become a "nightmare," but said her family enjoyed doing it for loyal customers.
Their diets have gradually changed to accommodate the oversized birds. They started with the standard spiced sauce for roast duck, but found that it wasn't enough to spice up the whole Turkey, which has more meat and less skin and bones than the duck. They add ginger and cilantro to the marinade to enhance the overall flavor and make it more full-bodied.
Ms. Cheng's brother, Michael Cheng, who operates the roast chicken, said the family enjoyed discussing ways to improve the quality of the bird.
As the diet changes, so does xinhua's customer base. Cheng estimates that Chinese americans now make up just under half of customers.
Bryan Cardenas, who is not Chinese, has been eating xinhua Turkey for Thanksgiving for more than a decade. He has also incorporated Chinese flavors into his holiday cooking, tinkering with his own fresh cranberry sauce and other dishes.
I added a tablespoon of Chinese five-spice powder, he said. "It feels great."
Still, zheng doesn't like Turkey, which she thinks is too thin. For years, her grandmother cooked a whole Turkey for the whole family on Thanksgiving Day because a relative could get it for free from the company. But no one was particularly concerned about whether it was good or bad: "the only reason we wanted her to do it was to make porridge the next day," Mr. Zheng said with a smile.
But for other chinese-american families, the fear of missing out on a national pastime can be a powerful motivator. The generation that grew up in the United States learned about Thanksgiving in school and drew turkeys by hand, often at the dinner table at home, encouraged by them.
It's such an ingrained part of American culture that we want to take home, but it's completely new to my parents, said Andrew Shiue, a chinese-american writer who writes the blog Beyond Chinatown. "We want to join this American tradition."
“这是美国文化中根深蒂固的一部分，我们想把它带回家，但这对我的父母来说还是完全陌生的，”博客“城里城外”(Beyond Chinatown)的博主，华裔美国作家薛唯中(Andrew Shiue)说。“我们想加入这个美国传统。”
Wilson Tang, the owner of Nom Wah Tea Parlor in Manhattan's Chinatown, said his family tried roasting Turkey at home as a child and "played it by luck."
曼哈顿华埠南华茶室(Nom Wah Tea Parlor)的老板邓伟(Wilson Tang)说，在他小时候，他的家人曾在家里尝试烤火鸡，最终结果如何要“看运气”。
Yee Li, a nearby butcher shop on yaya street, is the family's main Turkey buyer. The meat is juicier than American Turkey, Mr. Deng said, and the bird is cut neatly into smaller pieces, like roast duck or chicken in soy sauce.
John Chan, a descendant of its owner, opened New Yee Li in January in dyck heights, brooklyn, filling a small market in a region with a growing Chinese immigrant population with traditional cantonese barbecue and other specialties.
裕利在摆也街上经营了30多年，于今年关门歇业，其所有者的后裔约翰·陈(John Chan)于1月在布鲁克林的戴克高地开了新裕利(New Yee Li)，用传统粤式烤肉和其他特色菜填补这个中国移民人口不断增长地区的小市场。
As a young man, Mr. Chen said, he avoided working in his store during Thanksgiving, when customers were busy buying Turkey. Now, he's looking forward to continuing the Turkey tradition at his new store -- although, he admits, it's not his favorite dish.
Actually, I prefer our Italian neighbor's Turkey, Mr. Chen said. "I liked the way they cooked it, but they told me they liked it."