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带着回忆,重走加州1号公路

  I have a picture taken in the early 90s: I was 13 years old leaning on the railings of the Golden Gate Bridge and looking at the water below. I looked depressed, probably because my dad told me that this landmark was the most popular jumping bridge suicide in the world (at least then). It could be other reasons.

  我有一张90年代早期拍的照片:13岁的我靠着金门大桥的栏杆,看着下面的海水。我看起来很消沉,可能是因为我爸告诉我这个地标是全世界最流行的跳桥自杀地(至少当时如此)。也可能是其他原因。

  肯定 I must have died of cold at the time. A pair of long legs in denim shorts were exposed to the summer air in San Francisco. Even in the photo, it looked very cold. Ten years later, after I moved to this city, I walked through hundreds of thousands of tourists who were dressed like me at the time and did n’t understand why there were cold weather in California. I still remember when I first came here Unpleasant wind.

  我当时肯定冷死了,一双穿着牛仔短裤的长腿暴露在旧金山的夏日空气中,即使是在照片上,看起来也很冷。十几年后,在我搬到这座城市后,下班走过成百上千和我当时穿得差不多、不明白加州为何会有寒冷天气的游客时,我依然记得当时第一次来这里时一直刮风的不愉快。

  That was the last stop of the family vacation. It was my first visit to this state, but it was not the first time we had a discomfort during that trip. We came to the Bay Area through State Road 1. State Road 1 is a long and winding coastal road also called Highway 1. When we turned too fast along the cliff-side road, my sister and I were behind I was sick and nauseated in the seat, my mother panicked in the front row. We set off from Los Angeles, where we flew from Cleveland to Los Angeles for one night. When our parents went out, our children were left in the motel room. In a city far away from home, a sound came from the door, and the door could open directly to the outside, and we were scared enough.

  那是全家度假的最后一站,是我第一次来这个州,但并不是我们那次旅行中第一次出现不适感。我们通过一号州道来到了湾区,一号州道这个漫长又蜿蜒曲折的海岸公路也叫1号公路,当我们沿着悬崖边的路转弯太快时,我的姐妹和我在后座上感到恶心想吐,我妈在前排惊慌失措。我们是从洛杉矶开始出发的,此前从克利夫兰坐飞机到洛杉矶,住了一晚。父母出门时,我们这些孩子就被留在汽车旅馆房间里。在一个离家遥远、陌生的城市,有声音从门外传来,而这道门可以打开直接通向外面,我们吓得够呛。

  When I started from my home in Oakland last month and started this journey in the opposite direction, I didn't want to go back to the highway or to go to California again. I have no clear plan. I am open to the end of this trip, and people here need that.

  当我上个月从奥克兰的家里出发,以相反方向开始这趟旅程时,我不是想要重走这条高速公路,也不是想重游一次加州。我没有明确计划。我对此行的终点持开放态度,在这里的人需要这种态度。

  I left my home in the morning on a fresh, lively Dongwan, and the beautiful mountains and gentrified neighborhoods were shrouded in thick fog or smoke from a mountain fire, or both-generally both recently- Heading for a bridge to the San Francisco Peninsula, I was sighing and rejoicing. After driving for about 15 minutes along Highway 1, this bay-side city has become a seaside town with a rural feel. The sea on the right-hand side has gradually come into view, and the urban scenery has disappeared. Soon, you will be in Pacifica, a remote city by the sea, feeling remote and not far away.

  我在一个清新、活跃的东湾早晨离开了家,优美山脉和士绅化街区被笼罩在浓雾或是山火的烟雾里,或者是两者皆有——近来一般是两者皆有——前往一个通往旧金山半岛的大桥,我在叹气的同时又感到欢欣鼓舞。沿着1号公路开了差不多15分钟,这座海湾边的城市就变成了带着乡间风情的海滨小镇,右手边大海渐渐映入眼帘,都市风光没了。很快,你就到了帕西菲,这是一个海边的偏远城市,给人感觉又偏僻,又不是很遥远。

  This time, I skipped Pacificica and went 30 miles south to a new (for me) stop-Pescadero. I walked away from the sea and into the town, waiting on the main street for the 124-year-old tavern-restaurant Duarte ’s to open the door. I was ready for lunch. Behind the coffee shop across the street was a small nine-seater movie theater with a strange old movie inside. A newly released cookie from Arcangeli, a department store and delicatessen one block away, was bigger than my face, and I ate one.

  但这一次,我跳过了帕西菲卡,再向南30英里来到新的(对我来说)一站——佩斯卡德罗。我远离大海,进到了小镇里,在主街上等着拥有124年历史的小酒馆兼餐馆Duarte’s开门,我好去吃午餐。街对面的咖啡店的后面塞下了一个有九个座位的小电影院,里面放着一部奇怪的老电影。一个街区以外的百货店兼熟食店Arcangeli卖的新出炉的曲奇比我脸还大,我吃了一个。

  When I finally walked into Duarte ’s (I would not have come here without a friend's introduction), I ordered a lot of artichoke cream soup and green curry. This dish is not on the menu-this was what my friend revealed to me that morning. As on that day, this part of the coastline is often overcast and slightly cool, and I heard that every local around me ordered the same dishes. The sourdough bread served at this restaurant comes from a bakery just north of Half Moon Bay, no worse than any I've had at Fisherman ’s Wharf.

  当我终于走进Duarte’s(要不是有朋友介绍,我是不会来这里的)时,我点了一大堆洋蓟奶油浓汤和绿咖喱。这道菜不在菜单上——这也是那个朋友在那天上午透露给我的。和那天一样,这一段海岸线往往阴云密布,略有凉意,我听到周围的每个当地人都点了一样的菜。这家餐馆供应的酸面团面包来自于半月湾北边一点的一家面包房,不比我在Fisherman’s Wharf吃过的任何一款差。

纽约时报中英文网 www.qqenglish.com

  There is also a goat milk farm in Tongzhen, which has a tasting shop. Eight miles south is Pigeon Point, one of the tallest lighthouses on the west coast. Another 30 miles past, there is the famous and nostalgic Santa Cruz Beach playground. There are many roller coasters and arcades along the boardwalk, and there are many beaches and parks along the way. I chose to go down Highway 1 on Davenport Beach and decided to leave the bakeries and bars that look worth exploring next time to Big Basin Redwoods State Park, California's oldest state park Because I've never been there before.

  镇子里还有一个羊奶场,里面有试吃店。往南八英里有鸽子岬(Pigeon Point),西海岸最高的灯塔之一。再过去30英里,有著名、充满怀旧感觉的圣克鲁兹海滩游乐场,木板路边有许多过山车和街机,一路上还有不少海滩和公园。我选择在达文波特海滩下1号公路,决定把这里的看起来值得探索的面包房和酒吧留给下一次,前往加州最古老的州立公园大盆地红木州立公园(Big Basin Redwoods State Park),因为我也从没去过那里。

  I circled the car back to the sea and re-opened the coastal road, looking at the options that followed: Moss Landing, which can watch whales and dolphins by boat; and of course Monterey, parents took us The place to go to the beautiful aquarium; Carmel-by-the-Sea, where I only vaguely remember a street full of shops, so fancy that I couldn't even fully understand. I walked straight towards Big Sur.

  我把车绕回到海边,重新开上沿海公路,一边打量着随之而来的选项:莫斯兰丁(Moss Landing),可以乘船观看鲸鱼和海豚;当然还有蒙特利,父母带我们去精美水族馆的地方;卡梅尔小镇(Carmel-by-the-Sea),那里我只依稀记得一条街上满是店铺,花哨到我甚至无法全然理解。我径直朝着大苏尔(Big Sur)走去。

  Big Sur. In terms of its pronunciation, the two parts of words are concise and heavy. A road extends between the rock walls, with one side climbing upwards and the other steeply down-between the clouds. When the fog is low over the water, it looks as if you are driving above the sky. Or, as the fog thins, it blurs the boundaries of water and gas at sea level, as if you were heading for Promise.

  大苏尔。就冲它的发音,词语两部分的简洁与厚重。一条路在岩壁之间延伸,一侧向上攀升,另一侧陡直向下——在云景之间。当雾低悬水面,它看上去好似你正行驶在天空之上。或者,当雾变薄,模糊了海平面上水气的界限,又好似你正在驶向无极。

  Hiding in the forest on the side of the land is Deetjen's, a 1930's small hotel listed in the National Register of Historic Places, a series of thin-walled houses with ebony structures. The interior rooms have different styles. . The map of the hotel I received on one of my several stays is now framed in my home; this time I booked a room with a shared foyer bathroom, a double bed and a kitchen sink. After having dinner in the restaurant, I lay down and opened the account where the guest could leave a message. A recent one from an older man wrote that he was “frightened and excited” to come to a state he had never been to before, saying he knew nothing about the place. He also said that he had left a hemp cigarette in the teapot. I looked up and saw it on the ledge. When I opened it, I found that it was full of notes with various wishes.

  掩映在陆地一侧林木中的是地杰(Deetjen’s),一家列入《美国国家史迹名录》(National Register of Historic Places)的1930年代小旅馆,一系列乌木结构的薄墙房子,内部房间风格迥异。在几次入住的其中一次领取的旅馆地图,如今已在我的家中裱起;这次我预定的房间有一间共享的门厅浴室、一张双人床和厨房水槽。在餐厅用完晚餐后,我躺下翻开了客人可以在上面留言的房间手账。近期的一条来自一位年长男子,他写下了独自前来一个从未到过的州感到“既害怕又兴奋”,他说对这个地方一无所知。他还说在茶壶里留了一个大麻烟卷。我抬头向上看,瞧见它在壁架上。当我打开时,发现里面塞满了写着各种心愿的纸条。

  I set the alarm clock to midnight. Drive south in the dark along Highway 1 to Esalen, a non-profit college with workshops and accommodation. Its hot springs by the cliffs can be enjoyed by anyone, as long as you can quickly book online for its $ 35 limited bath when it opens for registration at 9 a.m. The problem is: the bath is only open from 1am to 3am. The process of waiting on the side of the road and then being gathered together to register and then be led into the bath was not particularly warm or enthusiastic. But here in the naked stone bathtub, the lights are faintly illuminated, and there is a loud sound of waves crashing in the distance below. The feeling will indeed melt away some discomfort. I was soaking. Breath of redwood and pine.

  我把闹钟定到半夜12点。驾车在黑暗中沿1号公路向南开到伊莎兰(Esalen),一个有工作坊和住宿的非营利学院。它位于峭壁边的温泉任何人都可以享用,只要你能在当天早9点开放登记时快速在网上预定到它的35美元限量浴缸。问题是:浴场只在凌晨1点至凌晨3点开放。在路边等候,随后被集拢到一起去登记然后被领入浴场的过程可不是特别温暖或热情。但在这里衣裸随意的石头浴缸里,灯光幽幽照着,远处的下方传来波涛撞击的巨响,那种感觉的确会融化掉一些不适,我浸泡着,空气中满是桉树、盐、红杉和松树的气息。

  选择 I chose this daytime version of the same scene-the sea forever-the next morning for breakfast on the huge terrace of Café Kevah. For what went south that day, I could say for hours: stop by the 80-foot-high McWay Falls on the side of the road; and at Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park Pfeiffer Burns State Park) watched the Pelton Wheel (a type of turbine) exhibition; walked down a steep and slightly menacing trail at Ragged Point Inn and Resort to an abandoned beach, and then decided Take off your panties and plunge into the sea. Afterwards, I stopped at the side of the highway and, along with other tourists, watched a group of dolphins apparently mating below.

  我选择了这同一片景致的白天版本——永远的大海——次日早晨在咖普拜咖啡馆(Café Kevah)的巨大露台上用早餐。对于那天接着往南做了些什么,我可以说上好几个小时:在路边80英尺高的麦克威瀑布(McWay Falls)旁驻足;在茱莉娅·菲佛·伯恩斯州立公园(Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park)看了佩尔顿轮(一种水轮机)展览;在崎岖点酒店度假村(Ragged Point Inn and Resort)沿着陡峭且略显凶险的步道向下走到一片废弃的海滩,然后决定脱到只剩内裤,一头扎进海里。之后,我在公路旁侧停下车,和其他游客一起,观看下面一群显然在交配的海豚。

  On a beach near Cape Piedras Blancas, hundreds of elephant seals lie or play, some of which are nearly 5 meters long and weigh more than 2 tons. As I passed by Hirst Castle, I waved at it. It was located on the high mountain on my left-my parents and I had been there, and the tiles of the Roman indoor pool there were glittering. I saw a volcanic site more than 180 meters high and 23 million years ago. I can see it rising from Morro Bay over a distance of fifteen or six kilometers. I parked the car at its feet, and the otter was swimming around the water in front of me. Their little hands rubbed on their faces and chests, and hugged together when they rolled, as if a stuffed toy had life general.

  在彼德拉斯布兰卡斯角附近的一处海滩上,数百只象海豹或躺着或嬉耍,其中一些身长近5米,重达2吨多。经过赫斯特城堡的时候,我冲它挥手致意,它位于我左边的高山上——我和父母去过那里,那里的罗马室内泳池的瓷砖金光闪闪。我看到一座180多米高、2300万年前的火山遗迹,隔着十五六公里开外的距离,都能看到它从莫罗湾升起。我把车停在它的脚下,水獭就在我面前的水面游来游去,它们的小手在自己的脸上、胸上揉擦,翻滚的时候拥抱在一起,仿佛一个毛绒玩具有了生命一般。

  Plans are changing. The landscape is changing. The danger is that the climate is also changing.

  计划在变。风景在变。危险的是,气候也在变。

  之前 Before this trip, the last time I took Highway 1 was three years ago, and I revisited the place where my then husband was—when we had moved out of the Bay Area. One morning, I found myself driving in a car and taking a sharp turn in Big Sur. I felt a strong urge to go down the cliff, and I realized that I needed to change my life. Within a year, we separated. After another year, I finally planned to move again, go back, and return to California.

  在这次旅行之前,我最后一次走1号公路是三年前的事情,跟我当时的丈夫故地重游——那时我们已经搬离了湾区。一天早上,我发现自己正一个人开着车,走在大苏尔的一处急转弯,心里有一股冲下海崖的强烈冲动,我意识到需要改变自己的生活。不到一年,我们分居了。又过了一年,我终于计划再次搬家,回去,回到加州。

  I went back not only because you could die on a famous bridge in California—that was taught by my father almost 25 years ago. It is also here how you can live. "There's a lot of homosexuality here," he said one morning while having breakfast at the restaurant of our hotel in San Francisco. My heart pounded, wondering if he said this because he saw two men walking on the sidewalk outside from our table next to the window; I tried to restrain myself from jumping out of my chair I asked him how he knew. My parents just shrugged. Everyone knows.

  我回去不仅是因为在加州,你可以在一座著名的大桥上死去——那是几乎刚好25年前,我父亲教给我的。也是因为在这里,你可以如何去生活。“这里好多同性恋,”有天早上,我们在旧金山入住的酒店的餐厅吃早餐时,他说道。我的心怦怦直跳,在想他说这句话是不是因为,他从我们临窗的桌子看见外面的人行道上有两个男人牵着手走过去;我尽量克制住从椅子上跳起来看的冲动,我问他是怎么知道的。我的父母只是耸了耸肩。每个人都知道。

  It turned out that this is also my sanctuary. I moved here when I was almost 30 years old. I was drinking and drinking too fiercely. With a career I dared not dream of in the past, I was rushed to live elsewhere by the influx of tech industry professionals and lived the happiest life Time has to fight for it. I returned here a few months ago, and nearly 40 people, not only homosexual, but also a public transgender, I am a newcomer, but rooted in a place that can tolerate such complexity. This extends the definition of value and builds and maintains a highway on ever-changing sections of the world. It is hard, dangerous, and nourishing. It understands that a person, a tree, or a planet can be alive greedily while being burned; it understands that gender can be a construct, a pedigree, and a death penalty. My path here is full of twists and turns, but you don't have to make your home from where you were born.

  原来,这里也是我的庇护所。我在快30岁的时候搬到这里,我喝酒喝太凶,有了一个自己过去不敢梦想的事业,被涌入的科技业人士赶到别的地方住,度过了生命中最快乐的时光,也不得不为之奋斗。几个月前我回到这里,人近40,不仅是同性恋,而且还是一个公开的跨性别者,我是一个新人,但扎根于一个可以包容如此的复杂性的地方。这扩展了价值的定义,并且在世界边缘不断变化的路段修建、养护着一条公路。它艰苦,危险,又给人以滋养。它理解一个人、一棵树或者一个星球在被烧毁的同时,也可以贪婪地活着;它理解性别可以是一个构建,一个谱系,一种死刑。我在这里的道路充满曲折但完美,你不必非要以你出生的地方为家。

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