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彩虹山、兰州拉面和好心人:华裔旅人甘肃独行记

  Our travel columnist Jada Yuan is on his way to visit "The 52 Best Places to Go in 2018". The following report is from Gansu, China, which is ranked 17th on the most worthwhile list and is the 47th stop of Jetta's itinerary.

  我们的旅行专栏作者杰达·袁(Jada Yuan)正在访问“2018年最值得去的52个地方”的途中。下面的报道发自中国甘肃,甘肃在最值得去的名单上名列17,是杰达行程的第47站。

  She first spoke a series of Chinese words that I did not understand, and then she said one that I understood: "Lanzhou?"

  她先开口说了一连串我听不懂的中文词,然后说了一个我听懂了的:“兰州?”

  Yes! Yes! I'm going to Lanzhou, too, I said, and I nodded hard at the friendly-looking 40-year-old woman, and we soon discovered that we were all traveling alone and flying to China. The capital of Gansu Province—it is a stop on the Silk Road along the ancient trade route in the northwestern part of China's inland, and neither of us speak the other's language.

  “对!对!我也要去兰州,”我说,我对着这位看起来友好的40来岁的女子用力点着头,我们很快就发现我们都是独自旅行,都要飞往中国甘肃省的省会——那是中国内陆西北地区沿古代贸易路线丝绸之路上的一站,以及我们都不会讲对方的语言。

  注意到 I noticed Wei Zhaohan at Beijing Airport. She was sitting next to me and started watching Chinese pop music videos without headphones. This is my sixth visit to China, but for the first time without relatives. My relatives live mainly in Shanghai and Beijing. I have always missed the lively atmosphere that I am familiar with: everyone speaks at the same time, and my voice is louder than one. The chairs in the terminal are covered with buns and fruits, like a picnic.

  我是在北京机场注意到魏昭寒(音)的,当时她坐在我傍边,开始看中国流行音乐视频,没有戴耳机。这是我大概第六次来中国,但是第一次没有亲戚陪伴,我的亲戚们主要住在上海和北京,我一直怀念那些已经熟悉了的热闹气氛:大家同时说话,嗓门一个比一个大,候机厅的椅子摆上了馒头和水果,像野餐一样。

  Wei Zhaohan runs a construction company, and I soon had a good opinion with her. After we boarded the plane, she changed seats with the person sitting next to me. "Let's be friends," she said via a Baidu translation app (Baidu is the equivalent of Google in China, Google is blocked in China), and then announced that after arriving at the airport, let me take her car to the hotel.

  魏昭寒经营一家建筑公司,我跟她很快就有了好感。我们登机后,她跟坐在我旁边的人换了座位。“让我们做朋友吧,”她通过百度翻译应用(百度相当于中国的谷歌,谷歌在中国被屏蔽了)说,然后又宣布,到机场后,让我搭她的车去旅馆。

  You can believe I'm a good person! She wrote on Baidu App, and then laughed. At that time it was past midnight, and her friend was pulling us to Lanzhou along a dark road. In other cases, this may be the middle part of a Stephen King novel. But she was just one of many people who took the initiative to help me—they helped me order food in the restaurant and sent me to the hotel safely like Wei Zhaohan. Most of them didn't realize that I was Chinese-American at first; they only seemed to see a woman alone in a strange place, and seemed a little lost.

  “你可以相信我是个好人!”她在百度应用上写道,然后笑了起来,当时时间已过了午夜,她的朋友正沿着一条黑漆漆的公路,把我们拉向兰州。在别的情况下,这可能是一部斯蒂芬·金(Stephen King)小说的中间部分。但她只是众多主动帮助我的人中的一个——他们在餐馆帮我点餐,像魏昭寒那样把我安全地送到旅馆。他们中的大多数人一开始并没有意识到我是华裔美国人;他们似乎只是看到了一个女子独自在一个陌生的地方,看起来好像有点迷路。

  There are large expanses of magnificent desert in Gansu Province between the mountains. It used to be the "wild west" of China. It is the westernmost end of the Great Wall to resist nomadic attacks. There are also famous grottoes, which follow Buddhist Spread, shrines dug out on cliffs.

  位于群山之间的甘肃省有大片的壮丽沙漠,这里曾经是中国的“蛮荒西部”,是用来抵御游牧民族袭击的长城的最西端,这里还有著名的石窟,那是随着佛教的传播,在悬崖峭壁上挖出来的神龛。

  Gansu was selected as one of the 52 tourist destinations in 2018, because after the high-speed rail opened, people will have easier access to many local valuable tourism resources, including the Rainbow Striped Mountain in Zhangye Danxia National Geopark.

  甘肃入选了2018年的52个旅游目的地,是因为高铁开通后,人们更容易前往当地许多宝贵的旅游资源,其中包括张掖丹霞国家地质公园的彩虹斑纹山。

  容易 But easy is relatively speaking, it is not easy for Gansu in November. The temperature here is below zero, and the land here is beautiful and barren, making it difficult to believe that it can sustain life. There are almost no foreigners here; almost no one speaks English; I cannot read the menus and road signs. (I will only say basic household phrases, such as "I have eaten"; "No, really, I can no longer eat")

  但容易是相对而言的,11月来甘肃并不容易。这里的气温在零度以下,这里的土地美丽、贫瘠,让人很难相信它能维持生命。这里几乎没有外国人;也几乎没有人说英语;我看不懂菜单和路标。(我只会说一些基本的家常话,比如“我已经吃了”;“不,真的,我再也吃不下了”)

  After climbing up a hillside near Jiayuguan City, the cold, dry air (and considerable pollution) made my lungs feel burning. I boarded the cantilevered Great Wall, which is so called because it seemed to be firmly attached to the ridge of Montenegro by some magic. Ming Dynasty tacticians built the Great Wall in 1539. From its highest point, it is Gobi in all directions, dotted with bare mountains and oasis, and a smoking factory in the distance.

  爬上嘉峪关市附近的一个山坡后,寒冷干燥的空气(还有相当多的污染)让我的肺有一种灼烧的感觉。我登上了悬臂长城,之所以这么叫,是因为这段长城好像是用某种魔法牢牢地贴在黑山山脊上的。明朝的战术师们于1539年修建了这段长城,从其最高处往所有的方向看都是戈壁,其间点缀着光秃秃的山脉和绿洲,远处还有一座冒着烟的工厂。

  It's hard to stand here without admiring the mighty human will, including the point I paid for seeing this scenery.

  站在这里很难不去赞叹强大的人类意志,包括我为看到这个景色而付出的那点。

  In the afternoon after eating with Wei Zhaohan, I took a six and a half hour train to Jiayuguan. It was the shortest trip I could find at the train station in downtown Lanzhou. I have learned before that high-speed rail tickets are available. Sold out, and the high-speed rail is getting on from a new railway station in the suburb, Lanzhou West Station.

  在我和魏昭寒一起吃饭之后的下午,我坐了六个半小时的火车来到了嘉峪关,那是我在兰州市中心的火车站能找到的用时最短的车次,之前我已经了解到,高铁票都卖光了,而且高铁是从郊区的一个新火车站——兰州西站上车。<纽约时报中英文网 http://www.qqenglish.com/>

  On the train, a police officer introduced me to an English teacher named Qiao from Jiayuguan. Not only did she wake me up when we needed to get off the train at half past two in the morning, but she also asked her husband to drive me to the hotel. After arriving at the hotel, she cut my room rate to $ 29 for two nights (instead of the $ 90 I booked online). I took a shower and got into the bed with all my winter clothes because I didn't know how to turn on the heater. But I'm glad I didn't spend that extra $ 60.

  在火车上,一名乘警把我介绍给了来自嘉峪关一名姓乔的英语老师。她不仅在我们需要凌晨两点半下火车时把我叫醒,而且还让她的丈夫开车送我去旅馆。到旅馆后,她把我的房价砍到了两晚29美元(而不是我在网上预订的90美元)。我冲了个澡,穿着所有的冬天衣服钻进了被窝,因为我不知道怎么把取暖器打开。但我很高兴没有多花那60美元。

  The next morning, following Joe's suggestion, I walked along the wide and relatively empty streets of Jiayuguan to a restaurant named Wumaier to taste local specialty food: Lanzhou ramen. When I couldn't communicate with anyone what I wanted, a lined-up man bought me a bowl of noodles and taught me how to get the noodles, add chili sauce, then sit at the counter and take the noodles from the steaming noodle soup He sucked with his mouth and ate it loudly.

  第二天早上,按照乔的建议,我沿着嘉峪关宽阔而相对空旷的街头,来到了一家名叫吾麦尔的餐馆品尝当地的特色食品:兰州拉面。当我无法与人交流我要点什么时,一个排队的男子替我买了一碗面,还教我如何把面取来,加上辣椒酱,然后坐在柜台边,把面条从热气腾腾的面汤里用嘴吸起来啧啧作响地吃下去。

  Qiao Qiao also suggested that I rent a taxi for 150 yuan ($ 22) to see the three Great Wall attractions in Jiayuguan. We drove through the Gobi Desert outside the city and came to a mound. It used to be the first beacon of the Great Wall, or the westernmost point of this western defense. There are 54 beacon towers like this, sending smoke signals along the Great Wall to warn the enemy of their actions.

  乔还建议我以150元人民币(22美元)租一辆出租车,去看嘉峪关的三个长城景点。我们开车穿过城外的戈壁沙漠,来到一个土墩,它曾经是长城第一座烽火台,或者说这个西部防御的最西端。像这样的烽火台有54个,沿着长城发送烟雾信号,警示敌人的行动。

  On the shuttle bus to the attraction, I met Wei Gong, a female tourist from Sichuan, and Yu Lihong, an English-speaking businessman from Nanjing, who helped me communicate with the driver. The three of us didn't always keep the same pace, but when we visited the Great Wall and the last Jiayuguan, we kept using WeChat to keep in touch. It was too big. I had to go again the next day to see it all.

  在景点的往返巴士上,我遇到来自四川的女游客魏宫(音),以及来自南京、会说英语的商人余立宏(音),他帮我和司机沟通。我们三个人并没有总是保持步调一致,但是当我们游览悬壁长城和最后的嘉峪关时,我们一直用微信保持联系,它实在太大,我只得第二天又去了一次才全部看完。

  Tongjiayuguan underwent an overhaul in 2014. The night I came here, the desert temperature dropped sharply with the sunset. I was alone in the whole place. I walked up the stone ramp. It can be used to pull the horse up to the lookout. Defeat the enemy. At the exit, I found Wei Gong waiting for a taxi. At a shop selling tea sets made of local stones, the owner invited us to sit by a wood stove to bake fire, warming frozen hands.

  嘉峪关在2014年经历过一次大修。我来到这里的那个晚上,沙漠气温随着日落而急剧下降,整个地方只有我一个人,我走上石头坡道,它可以用来把马牵上瞭望台,也可以用来滚下原木,冲垮敌人。在出口处,我找到了等出租车的魏宫。在一家出售用当地石头制成的茶具的商店,店主邀请我们坐在柴炉旁边烤火,温暖冻僵的双手。

  I had no plan to go to Mogao Grottoes, which is the Thousand Buddha Caves certified by UNESCO. Later, Wei Palace invited me to go with her. A few hours after leaving Jiayuguan, she would go there by train overnight, which I couldn't do. But this idea persisted. According to UNESCO, there are 492 caves there, all carved by hand on sandy cliffs, and they are the largest and longest-used Buddhist art treasures in the world. They are located 4.5 hours west of Jiayuguan, in a desert oasis called Dunhuang. This distance is very tempting, and I don't know when I will be so close to them next time.

  我本来没有计划去莫高窟,也就是经联合国教科文组织认证的千佛洞,后来魏宫邀请我和她一起去。在离开嘉峪关几个小时后,她就要连夜坐火车去那里,我可做不到。但这个念头,挥之不去。据联合国教科文组织介绍,那里有492个窟,都是手工在沙质悬崖上刻出来的,是世界上最大、使用时间最长的佛教艺术宝藏。它们位于嘉峪关以西4.5个小时车程的地方,一个名为敦煌的沙漠绿洲里,这个距离很诱人,我也不知道下次什么时候才能再离它们这么近。

  With the help of Yu Lihong, I booked a train leaving Jiayuguan at 2 am. I chose a luxurious soft sleeper with comfortable beds and doors that can be closed. After sleeping in Meimeidi for four hours, and waiting for the door to open for a few hours, I went into the first Mogao cave to see the Tang Dynasty Buddha statue with a history of more than 1,400 years.

  在余立宏的帮助下,我订了凌晨2点从嘉峪关出发的火车。我选择了豪华的软卧车厢,它有舒适的床和可以关上的门。在美美地睡了四个小时,为了等开门又坐出租车兜风几个小时后,我走进了第一个莫高窟洞穴,去看1400多年历史的唐朝佛像。<纽约时报中英文网 http://www.qqenglish.com/>

  无法 You cannot enter the cave without a guide. After some inquiries, I found an English group, plus three people in total.

  没有向导就无法进入洞窟。经过一番询问,我找到了一个英语团,加上我一共三个人。

  Hundreds of small Buddha statues were painted on the ceiling of the cave, indicating that the Dharma is boundless. Their history can be traced back to 366 AD, when a monk named Lezun walked in the desert and saw a thousand Buddha statues bathed in golden light. The illusion in it, so inspired, cut a grotto in the sandstone.

  洞窟的天花板上画满了几百个小佛像,表明佛法无边,它们的历史可以追溯到公元366年,当时一位名叫乐尊的僧人在沙漠中散步,看到一千尊佛像沐浴在金光之中的幻象,于是有了灵感,在砂岩上凿出石窟。

  For centuries, devout devotees will excavate new caves and sculpt huge statues of Buddha in them until the Silk Road declines and people no longer come. The cave has remained intact (except for some thieves), but only reopened in the last century, and a large amount of 11th century Buddhist literature has been found here.

  几个世纪以来,虔诚的信众会开凿新窟,并在其中雕出巨大的佛像,直到丝绸之路衰落,人们不再到来。洞窟一直原封不动(除了一些盗贼),只是在上个世纪才重新开放,人们在这里发现了大量11世纪的佛教文献。

  At the core of the Mogao Grottoes is a five-story pagoda structure. When I entered, a group of people were coming out, the light was dim, and nothing was clear. What a giant beast ahead. Is that one foot? I looked up to see a 98-foot (29.8-meter) tall Buddha statue.

  莫高窟的核心是一座五层宝塔式结构。我进去时,一群人正走出来,光线很暗,什么也看不清。前方有什么庞然大物。那是一只脚吗?我抬头看到一尊98英尺(合29.8米)高的佛像。

  There are larger Buddha statues in China and elsewhere in the world, but this intimacy may not be there-standing in a building that is almost the same size as a Buddha statue, forcing you to look up at him with your neck up, making you Be in the position of a beggar. The determination and belief made mankind turn this huge statue into reality, a feat that was overwhelming and overwhelmed. I often think of that Buddha statue, how close I have to stand to see him, and how small I feel at that moment.

  中国和世界上的其他地方还有更大的佛像,但可能不会有这种亲密感——站在一个与佛像大小基本相同的建筑物里,迫使你仰起脖子看着他,令你始终处于一个乞求者的位置。决心和信仰使人类把这个巨大的雕像变成了现实,这种壮举令人无所适从,不知所措。我经常想起那座佛像,我得站多近才能看到他,以及那一刻我觉得自己何其微小。

  On my last day in China, I had to fly to Japan at 9 pm. I had a sudden idea and planned to spend a morning in Zhangye Danxia Landform National Park, which is Rainbow Mountain, and then take a three-hour bullet train to Lanzhou West Station , And then take a 40-minute train from there to Lanzhou Airport. But this road needs precise planning.

  在中国的最后一天,晚上9点我得飞往日本,我突发奇想,计划在张掖丹霞地貌国家公园,也就是彩虹山上度过一个早晨,然后坐三小时的子弹头列车前往兰州西站,接着再乘坐40分钟的火车从那里前往兰州机场。但这一路需要精准规划。

  First of all, the eastbound companion Lian Shaoyong I met in the grotto reached an agreement for me and the conductor. Since the last trip to Zhangye was sold out, I only got tickets for part of the trip. Solution: The difference was paid in cash and the staff would wake me up in the middle of the night and move me to a vacant space-because my bed was already sold.

  首先,我在石窟遇到的东行同伴连少勇(音)为我和售票员达成了协议。由于去张掖的最后一段行程已经售罄,所以我只获得了部分行程的车票。解决方案:现金支付差额,工作人员会在半夜叫醒我,把我移到空位上——因为我的床位已经售出。

  旭 Next comes Song Xu, who sleeps with me and is a good English businessman. He pushed backwards from the last time I might reach the airport and planned the trip for me. A college student named Liu Haocheng and a businessman sitting nearby joined us. We took the bunk of a family of three. When Liu Haocheng translated my actions into Chinese and told them, they were not doubted. "You alone?" The mother asked; I nodded. "very brave."

  接下来出场的是宋旭(音),他跟我同卧铺,也是一位英语很好的商人。他从我最后可能到达机场的时间开始倒推,为我规划行程。一位名叫刘浩成(音)的大学生,以及一个坐在附近的生意人,也加入了我们。我们占用了一家三口的下铺,当刘浩成把我的行动翻译成中文说给他们听的时候,他们不无疑惑。“你一个人?“那位母亲问;我点点头。“很勇敢。”

  四个 Four of us checked the website, called in Chinese and English, and finalized a plan in just two hours. When the train arrived at 2am, a driver named Tao Hongbing would pick me up, help me buy a ticket back to Lanzhou Airport, find a cheap hourly room for me, take a short break, he was 7am Pick me up to get me to the Geopark before sunrise, then return to Zhangye Railway Station, take the bullet train to Lanzhou, which is the central point of my interlocking schedule.

  我们四个查看网站,用中文和英文打电话,在短短两个小时内敲定了一项计划。当火车在凌晨2点进站时,一位名叫陶宏兵(音)的司机会来接我,帮我买好回兰州机场的票,为我找间便宜的钟点房短暂休息一会,他早上7点来接我,以便在日出之前把我送到地质公园,然后返回张掖火车站,乘坐子弹头火车前往兰州,那里是我这环环相扣的日程安排的中心点。

  Tao Tao Hongbing came to pick me up when it was still dark. We headed towards the park, passing by the trucks carrying goods in the early morning, and the children who rode to school. Private cars can't enter the park, so I boarded the first hop-on hop-off bus of the day. This car carried all the guards and park staff. They wore fur hats and winter coats and went to their jobs. post. The thermometer shows that the temperature is minus 7 degrees Celsius.

  陶宏兵在天还黑的时候就来接我,我们朝公园开去,一路经过清晨运送货物的卡车,还有成群骑车去学校的孩子。私家车不能进入公园,所以我登上了当天第一辆随上随下的公共汽车,这辆车载着所有的警卫和公园工作人员,他们戴着皮毛帽子、穿着冬季外套,去到他们的工作岗位。温度计显示气温是零下7摄氏度。

  短暂 After a short drive on the red brick road, we reached the second of the four scenic viewing platforms on the route. A guard shouted, I guess it means "get off!" Together with two other tourists, I ran up the wooden trail quickly, just to see the red hills, valleys, stone pillars, and human-like sandstone layers passing by the rising sun, these scenes can be with me in the southwest Everything the Ministry sees is comparable. Then, as the sun bathed the ground, yellow, green, white, and maroon stripes began to appear. That is the morphology of the mineral deposits produced during tens of millions of years of crustal movement.

  在红砖路上短暂行驶后,我们到达了路线上四个风景优美的观景平台中的第二个,一位警卫喊了一句,我猜测是“下车!”的意思。和其他两个游客一起,我沿着木制步道飞快地向上跑,刚刚好得以看见了朝阳掠过成海的红色山丘、山谷、石柱和好似人形的砂岩层,这些景象可以与我在美国西南部看到的任何东西相媲美。然后,当阳光沐浴大地之时,黄色、绿色、白色和褐红色的条纹开始出现。那是矿藏在数千万年的地壳运动中产生的组织形态。

  WeChat messages from the planning committee began to flow in. They wanted to know how everything was going. Yu Lihong and two friends named Wei, uncles, aunts and cousins ??in Queens also sent messages, and they happened to be on Thanksgiving. Visited Shanghai but I couldn't see them. The other tourists have already left, and I am alone on the icy mountain top, far away from the life I left almost a year ago, looking at the scenery from Mars in front of me, I feel contented.

  从计划委员会发来的微信消息开始涌入,他们想知道一切进行的怎么样了,余立宏和两位姓魏的朋友、皇后区的叔叔阿姨和堂兄也发来消息,他们正好在感恩节造访上海,但我无法见到他们。其他的游客已经走了,我独自一人在冰冷的山顶上,与将近一年前离开的那个生活远隔万里,看着眼前仿佛来自火星的景色,我感到怡然自得。

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