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这也许是地球上最可怕的地方,但是有5G和一所很棒的学校

  韩国台城洞自由村——几十年来,一个有188人的村庄享受着韩国很少有人享受的福利,这里的男子免于义务兵役,46户家庭获得了特别减税。

台城洞自由村。

  Tae-seong-dong free village, South Korea -- for decades, a village of 188 people enjoyed benefits few in South Korea enjoyed, with men exempt from compulsory military service and 46 families given special tax breaks.

  这是在曾被称为地球上最可怕的地方生存的回报。

  It's the reward of living in what was once called the scariest place on earth.

  分隔朝鲜与韩国的非军事区由重兵把守,台城洞自由村是这里唯一有韩国平民居住的地方。

  The village is the only place where south Korean civilians live in the heavily armed demilitarized zone separating the two koreas.

  最近几周,村民们获得了另一个奖励:韩国主流移动电话运营商KT公司安装的第五代(5G)超快通信网络,这里是首批安装此类系统的韩国城镇之一。

  In recent weeks, villagers have received another prize: a fifth-generation, or 5G, ultra-fast communications network installed by KT, the country's leading mobile phone operator, in one of the first south Korean towns to install such a system.

  73岁的高金植(音)说:“这比我亲生的孩子都有用,他们都在外面生活。”村民用“外面”称呼他们狭小边境之外的世界。

  It's more useful than my own children, said 73-year-old gao jinzhi. "they all live outside." Villagers call the world outside their narrow borders "the outside."

  高金植演示了她或丈夫出现医疗紧急情况时,通过5G服务,只需按下手持设备上的一个按钮,就能立即通知村长和社区中心。“打911是没用的,” 高金植说,“因为他们来不了这里。”

  Ms. Gao demonstrated that in case of a medical emergency for her or her husband, with 5G services, village leaders and community centers can be immediately notified by pressing a button on a handheld device. "It's useless to call 911," Mr. Gao said, "because they can't come here."

  韩国在努力争取建成世界上最早的全国性5G网络之一,台城洞成了很有吸引力的候选地,韩国可以借此向世界以及它那好战的邻国展示其高科技实力。

  As South Korea struggles to build one of the world's first nationwide 5G networks, tae-seong-dong has become an attractive candidate to showcase its high-tech prowess to the world and its bellicose neighbors.

  1953年,朝鲜战争因暂时休战而告终,划出了朝韩非军事区(DMZ),以分开交战部队。

  The Korean war ended in 1953 with a temporary truce that carved out the demilitarized zone (DMZ) between the two koreas to separate the warring forces.

  几乎所有村民都被赶出这个两英里半的缓冲区,这里成了世界上戒备最森严的边境之一,遍布着雷区,被双方的铁丝网、坦克陷阱和大量随时准备战斗的部队封锁住。

  Nearly all of the villagers have been driven out of the two-and-a-half-mile buffer zone, which has become one of the world's most heavily guarded borders, a minefield of barbed wire, tank traps and large Numbers of combat-ready troops on both sides.

  任何企图越境叛逃的行为都可能引发枪林弹雨。

  Any attempt to defect across the border could trigger a hail of gunfire.

  仅有两个村庄被允许留在里面:非军事区韩国半边的台城洞,以及边境线一英里外朝鲜的机井洞“平和村”。

  Only two villages were allowed to stay inside: tae-seong dong, on the south Korean side of the demilitarized zone, and the north Korean village of jekyong-dong, a mile across the border.

  从那以后,这两个做了几世纪邻居的村庄被禁止联络。这令82岁的台城洞村民朴必善(音)无法确定在机井洞的哥哥是否还活着。

  Since then, the two villages, neighbors for centuries, have been banned from communicating. That left pu bishan, an 82-year-old villager from taichengdong, unsure whether his brother was still alive in the jijingdong cave.

  在战后的几十年中,台城洞和机井洞成了朝韩战争宣传战的棋子,双方都投资建设自己的模范村庄,以彰显各自政治制度的优点。据韩国士兵说,如今的机井洞几乎没有人,公寓楼上曾经鲜艳的淡色油漆逐渐褪色。

  In the decades after the war, tae-seong-dong and jijingdong became pawns in the propaganda war between the two koreas, with each investing in their own model villages to highlight the merits of their respective political systems. Today, according to south Korean soldiers, kijingdong is almost empty, and the once bright light paint on the apartment building is fading.

    蛐蛐英语 www.qqenglish.com

  然而,韩国保持台城洞人口不流失的决心伴随着挑战。村民们要放弃许多其他韩国人视为理所当然的自由和服务。

  However, South Korea's determination to keep tae-seong-dong's population intact comes with challenges. The villagers are giving up many of the freedoms and services that other koreans take for granted.

  当村民冒着危险去到离边境仅1300英尺的稻田时,他们身边会有韩国士兵跟随。每天午夜到黎明都有宵禁,晚上会有挨家挨户的点名。

  South Korean soldiers accompany villagers as they risk their lives to reach rice paddies just 1,300 feet from the border. There is a curfew from midnight to dawn, and there are house-to-house calls at night.

  村民如果邀请非军事区外的朋友前来,必须提前两周申请批准。一旦汽车进入非军事区,导航地图就会变成空白。士兵必须护送所有的来访者。

  Villagers who invite friends from outside the DMZ must apply for permission two weeks in advance. Once the car enters the DMZ, the navigation map goes blank. Soldiers must escort all visitors.

  台城洞没有健身房、没有医院、没有超市、没有餐厅。如果村民想叫中餐外卖,送餐车只能到达非军事区外的最后一个军事检察点。外卖得留在那里,村民必须自己去取。

  There is no gym, no hospital, no supermarket, no restaurant. If villagers wanted to order Chinese food, the trucks could only reach the last military checkpoint outside the demilitarized zone. The food has to stay there and the villagers have to pick it up themselves.

  村里每天来四趟公交车。

  Four buses come from the village every day.

  “交通运输是最头疼的,尤其是像我这样不开车的人,”高金植说。

  Transportation is the biggest headache, especially for people like me who don't drive, Mr. Gao said.

  新的5G服务旨在减轻一些这样的负担。

  The new 5G services aim to ease some of that burden.

  在5G到来之前,稻农去一英里外的水库使用水泵也必须要求军事护送。现在,他们可以通过智能手机上的应用程序在家完成这项工作。同一应用程序还能用来控制豆田里的洒水器。

  Before 5G arrives, rice farmers must also ask for military escorts to use pumps in reservoirs a mile away. Now, they can do it at home via an app on their smartphone. The same application can also be used to control sprinklers in bean fields.

  多年来,这里的女人想上瑜伽课,但没有教练来。如今,可以通过流媒体在社区中心的大屏幕上播放瑜伽课程。

  For years, women here wanted to take yoga classes, but no instructor came. Today, yoga classes can be streamed on a large screen in a community center.

  在村里唯一的学校台城洞小学,学生们现在可以玩互动网络游戏。在最近的一次访问中,可以看到他们开心地向着沿墙而下的虚拟目标投掷真实的球。

  At the village's only school, taicheng dong primary school, students can now play interactive online games. On a recent visit, they could be seen happily throwing real balls at virtual targets that ran down the wall.

  这些设施对学校的生存很重要。和韩国其他乡村一样,近几十年来,台城洞也有很多年轻夫妇搬到大城市。如今,该校35名学生中只有7名是台城洞本地人。其余的每天从非军事区外最近的城镇汶山坐公共汽车赶来。

  These facilities are important for the survival of the school. Like other south Korean villages, tae-seong-dong has seen many young couples move to the big city in recent decades. Today, only seven of the school's 35 students are local. The rest arrive daily by bus from wenshan, the nearest town outside the demilitarized zone.

  在这所学校,学生们享有个性化的关注,35名学生配备了多达21名教师和工作人员。这个优点和其他激励措施使该校受到汶山家长的欢迎。今年,16名汶山儿童提交申请,争取一年级的一个入学名额。

  At the school, students enjoy personalized attention, with 35 students and up to 21 teachers and staff. This and other incentives have made the school popular with wenshan parents. This year, 16 wenshan children applied for a place in the first grade.

  “在这里,你可以学到很多外面的学校学不到的东西,”每天从汶山通勤的六年级学生许芮霖(Heo Ye-rin,音)说。“我们去外面参加课外旅行时,一分钱都不用付,因为政府会负担这笔费用。”

  You can learn a lot here that you can't learn in other schools, said Heo ye-rin, a sixth grader who commutes from wenshan every day. "When we go out on an after-school trip, we don't have to pay a penny because the government will pick up the TAB."

  美国主导的联合国军司令部(United Nations Command)参加过朝鲜战争,并留下来执行停战协定,司令部的一名美国军官每周免费来学校上两节英语课。

  An American officer from the american-led United Nations Command, which fought in the Korean war and stayed behind to enforce the armistice, came to school two times a week for free English lessons.

  “我们希望孩子们长大后,能对联合国军司令部的战士有一些美好的回忆,”美国陆军中校肖恩·莫罗(Sean Morrow)说。

  We want our kids to grow up with some good memories of the men and women of the United Nations command, said Lt. col. Sean Morrow of the U.S. army.

  莫罗中校指挥的部队负责守卫非军事区内的联合安全区(Joint Security Area)。非军事区包括台城洞和附近的板门店,后者现在已经没有跨越边境的平民居住。去年4月,朝鲜领导人金正恩在这里会见了韩国总统文在寅,今年6月,他又在这里会见了美国总统特朗普。

  Lt. col. morrow commands forces guarding the Joint Security Area of the demilitarized zone. The DMZ includes taicheng dong and the nearby village of panmunjom, which no longer houses civilians crossing the border. North Korean leader Kim jong UN met with south Korean President moon jae-in here last April, and he met with U.S. President Donald trump here in June.

  这样的高层外交有助于缓解边境地区的紧张局势。如今,台城洞看上去和韩国其他乡村没什么两样,金色的稻田在秋日的阳光下闪闪发光。

  Such high-level diplomacy helps ease tensions along the border. Today, tae-seong-dong looks like any other village in South Korea, with golden rice fields glistening in the autumn sun.

  但“不要被外表骗住了”,韩国退役将军全仁钒(Chun In-bum)说,他指出,朝鲜士兵密切注视着外面游客的一举一动。“这可不是一般的地方。这里所有的和平都由充满奉献精神的士兵来捍卫。”

  But "don't be fooled by appearances," said Chun in-bum, a retired south Korean general, noting that north Korean soldiers keep a close eye on tourists outside. "This is no ordinary place. All peace here is maintained by dedicated soldiers."

  这里的村民经常亲眼目睹朝韩紧张局势的起起伏伏。

  Villagers here often witness the ebb and flow of inter-korean tensions.

  几十年前,有村民踩到战争遗留的地雷,甚至遭到朝鲜士兵绑架。现年50岁的村长金东久(Kim Dong-gu,音)说,当局势高度紧张时,他们经常从农田里被疏散到防空洞。

  A few decades ago, villagers stepped on landmines left over from the war and were even kidnapped by north Korean soldiers. Kim dong-gu, 50, the village chief, said they were often evacuated from their fields to bomb shelters when tensions were high.

  尽管最近解冻,村民们仍然每年进行两次疏散演习。朝鲜的宣传广播曾是这里每天的麻烦事,去年朝韩两国同意关闭边境上的喇叭后,这种宣传广播终于消失了。

  Despite the recent thaw, villagers still conduct evacuation drills twice a year. North Korea's propaganda broadcasts, a daily annoyance here, finally disappeared last year after the two koreas agreed to shut down loudspeakers on their border.

  “尽管政治领袖们在谈论缓解紧张局势,但随着两国军队彼此对峙,我们仍然生活在紧张局势中,”村里的豆农、49岁的金永成(Kim Yong-sung,音)说。

  While political leaders talk about easing tensions, we still live in a tense situation as the two armies confront each other, said Kim yong-sung, 49, a bean farmer in the village.

  当两位韩国领导人在板门店会面时,台城洞的两名小学生用鲜花迎接了金正恩。

  As the two south Korean leaders met in panmunjom, Kim jong-un was greeted with flowers by two elementary school students in taicheng dong.

  “我很害怕,但也对朝鲜的独裁者感到好奇,”其中一名学生申宰赫(Sin Jae-hyeok,音)说。“见过他之后,我觉得他在我心目中的形象有了一点改善。”

  I'm scared, but also curious about the dictator in north Korea, said Sin jae-hyeok, one of the students. "After meeting him, I think his image in my mind has improved a little."

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