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冬奥会雪山试滑,领略俄罗斯特色

A Test Run at Russia’s Olympic Hopeful
冬奥会雪山试滑,领略俄罗斯特色

Before I could board the gondola at Rosa Khutor, a ski area that is part of Sochi, the site of next year’s Winter Olympics, I first had to trundle through a metal detector manned by Russian soldiers with machine guns and furry hats. This is not something I’m used to. At chairlifts in the American West, where I typically ski, you find cheerful young attendants who are stoked to be on their feet all day because that’s what it takes to live the dream.

俄罗斯索契(Sochi)是2014冬奥会的主办城市。在踏入索契罗莎库塔(Rosa Khutor)滑雪场的缆车之前,我不得不接受金属检测器的检查,执行检查的是几名头戴毛帽配备机枪的俄罗斯士兵。这阵势我可真不习惯。平时我在美国西部滑雪场的缆椅上看到的都是年轻人兴高采烈的脸,他们一玩就是一整天,因为这就是梦想实现的方式。

Unlike those armed soldiers, Sasha Krasnov, a local guide I’d arranged to meet, would be at home in the Rockies. Twenty-seven and shaggy haired, he is a self-identified “free rider” — an off-piste skier. A storm had delivered two feet of fresh snow overnight, ending a long dry spell, and Sasha, his head tucked under a dirt bike helmet, was as giddy as a child on Christmas morning.

与那些武装士兵不同,负责接待我的本地导游萨沙·克拉斯诺夫(Sasha Krasnov)如果身在落基山脉,必定会如鱼得水。他二十七岁,头发蓬乱,是个信心十足的“自由骑士”——野雪爱好者。久旱之后的一场暴风雪,让大地一夜之间盖上了二英尺深的积雪,而萨沙戴着脏兮兮的摩托车头盔,像圣诞早晨的小孩一样开心。

The gondola ferried us out of the base area, high above an Italianate clock tower built with an oligarch’s money, across a birch forest stippled with powder. Thick clouds obscured my view, so I unfolded a trail map, which was entirely in Russian. On it, I could see that Rosa Khutor was laid out much like a European resort, with a series of chairlifts linking the river valley, at 1,800 feet, with a craggy, treeless summit at 7,612 feet. As in the Alps, the resort takes a laissez-faire approach to marking trails. Only a handful had designated names, which weren’t helpful anyway, unless you read Cyrillic or had a knack for symbol recognition. I wondered aloud whether any rope or signage designated the resort’s boundary.

我们坐上缆车,离开了滑雪场的总部基地——某座意大利风格的钟楼顶部,钟楼是一位金融寡头投资修建的。缆车在一片白雪皑皑的桦树林上空徐徐滑过,浓厚的云层遮住了视线,于是我打开一张路线图。滑雪路线全部位于俄罗斯境内,从地图上可以看出,罗莎库塔滑雪胜地的规划很像欧洲的度假区,一条索道将整个滑雪场连接起来,包括海拔1800英尺(约合549米)的河谷与7612英尺(约合2320米)崎岖萧索的山顶。正如在阿尔卑斯山那样,游客在此地也可以随心所欲地为步道命名。只有少数几条路线有指定的名称,几乎帮不上什么忙,除非你能看懂西里尔文,或者对图形识别有特殊的天分。我不禁好奇地问了句:“这片度假胜地的边界到底有没有绳子或者标志物来标明?”

“No rope!” Sasha replied with a knowing smile. “This is Russia.”

“没有!”萨沙带着心照不宣的笑容回答我,“这就是俄罗斯。”

Vladimir Putin may be better known as a judo master and shirtless fisherman, but come winter, when snow coats the onion domes atop St. Basil’s Cathedral in Moscow, the Russian president heads for the slopes. The Wikipedia entry for ski suit, in fact, features an image not of the Olympic stars Lindsey Vonn or Bode Miller but of Mr. Putin, wearing the red two-piece uniform of Russia’s national team. On his personal website, he declares skiing “a dynamic sport that requires mastering a technique, and is a great opportunity for an active holiday, to stay fit and get a boost of energy and good spirits.”

说起弗拉基米尔·普京(Vladimir Putin),他更为人熟知的一面恐怕是柔道高手和光膀子渔夫,但当冬季到来,大雪掩盖了莫斯科圣巴索大教堂(St. Basil’s Cathedral)的穹顶,这位俄罗斯总统就会动身走向雪山的陡坡。在维基百科的网页上,“滑雪服”的词条所配的照片不是奥运明星林赛·沃恩(Lindsey Vonn),也不是伯德·米勒(Bode Miller),而是普京。照片上,他穿着俄罗斯国家队的红色两件套队服。在普京的个人网页上,他宣称滑雪是一种“活力四射的运动,要求你熟练掌握一套技能,这一绝佳的机会能让你以运动方式度假,帮你保持体型,增强能量,获得灵感”。

He also claims to prefer skiing in Russia. Until recently, however, there was little the country offered a foreign skier seeking an active holiday, never mind those good spirits. Russia’s tallest peaks are along its southern border with Georgia, in the Caucasus mountain range. The mountains stretch diagonally in a belt from the Black Sea, east to the Caspian. The tallest of them, Mount Elbrus, reaches higher than any in the rest of Europe, with an elevation of 18,500 feet. But beyond some heli-skiing operations, the handful of ski areas dating from the Soviet era hardly justified an Aeroflot ticket.

普京还提到自己更喜欢在俄罗斯境内滑雪。然而在过去,这个国家很少提供什么便利,因此国外的滑雪发烧友在俄罗斯很难欢度活力四射的假期,更别提什么灵感了。这种情况直到最近才略有好转。俄罗斯境内的几座最高峰都位于高加索山脉,在南疆与格鲁吉亚接壤。高加索山脉以斜对角方向从黑海向东延伸到里海。俄罗斯最高峰艾尔布鲁士(Elbrus)也是东欧的最高峰,海拔18500英尺(合5639米)。除了若干直升机滑雪胜地之外,仅有几片前苏联时期建起的滑雪场,你会感觉跟机票费用相比,这场旅行的收获恐怕太少了。

Not surprisingly, then, wealthy Russians have preferred skiing the Alps. Around a decade ago, the Russian government decided that there was no reason they needed to lose those vacation rubles to Switzerland, France and Italy. They flew in a mountain resort developer from Whistler, British Columbia, Paul Mathews, to evaluate the potential of the Caucasus for winter tourism. Mr. Mathews looked at the jagged ridgelines surrounding the sleepy village of Krasnaya Polyana, nestled in a river valley above Sochi, a city of about 400,000; at the long, deep gulleys that tumbled down from them; at the region’s glaciated bowls and gentle plateaus. It reminded him of Les Trois Vallées in France, among the world’s largest linked ski areas. Mr. Mathews drafted some plans, and in 2002, Interros, a conglomerate controlled by Vladimir Potanin, one of Russia’s richest men, and Gazprom, the world’s largest natural-gas producer, began building ski resorts.

所以,当年俄罗斯富人都爱去阿尔卑斯山滑雪,也没什么奇怪的了。大约十年前,俄罗斯政府决定,再也不能眼睁睁地看着大把的金钱白白落入瑞士、法国和意大利人的口袋了。他们邀请加拿大卑诗省惠斯勒滑雪场的高山度假发展专家保罗·马修斯(Paul Mathews)来评估高加索山区发展冬季旅游项目的潜力。马修斯先生深入考察了周围的地形:曲折的山脊深处,寂静的红草地(Krasnaya Polyana)小村安居溪谷,俯瞰40万人口的大城市索契。流淌的溪水汇入一条漫长而幽深的河涧,四周分布着冰斗谷和平缓的高原。马修斯想起了全世界最大的滑雪胜地法国Les Trois Vallées,画出了几张设计草图,2002年,俄罗斯大富商弗拉基米尔·波塔宁(Vladimir Potanin)控股的国际罗斯集团(Interros)和全球最大的天然气制造商高兹普罗姆(Gazprom)开始共同建造滑雪场。

Situated on the Black Sea, Sochi has a pleasant, temperate climate that has lured Russians to seaside sanitariums since the days of Stalin. The palm trees there can almost fool you into believing you’re in another country. “Sochi is a unique place,” Mr. Putin told the International Olympic Committee in his winning pitch to host the 2014 Games. “On the seashore, you can enjoy a fine spring day — but up in the mountains, it’s winter.”

索契坐落在黑海之滨,气候温暖宜人,早在斯大林时代就有许多俄罗斯人来这里建造滨海疗养院。棕榈夹道,海风椰影,会让你恍然以为这是另一个国家。“索契是个独特的地方,”普京对国际奥委会说,“在海边,你可以享受春天般温暖的日子,但到了山上,眼前却是冬天。”索契最终赢得了2014年冬奥会的主办权。

When I flew into Sochi last March, joined by my friend Than, it was neither springlike nor fine. The late-winter storm, which had diverted our flight from Moscow the previous night, cast a gray and despondent mood over the subtropical city. We took a taxi to Krasnaya Polyana, an hourlong trip up a winding, two-lane road, through the gorge of the Mzymta River. (A new highway and high-speed railway, being built across the river, will cut the travel time in half.)<纽约时报中英文网 http://www.qqenglish.com/>

去年三月,我和朋友坦(Than)乘飞机一起来到索契时,天气却既不温暖也不如春。冬末的暴风雨留住了我们前一天晚上本想飞往莫斯科的航班,为这个亚热带城市投下了黯淡而沮丧的阴影。我们坐上出租车,沿着姆济姆塔河(Mzymta River)边蜿蜒的双车道公路行驶了一个小时,到了红草地小村。(新建的公路及高速铁路横跨河流,行驶时间因此减少了一半。)

It was less than a year before the Olympic torch would arrive in early February, and Krasnaya Polyana didn’t resemble a quaint French mountain valley so much as the world’s largest alpine construction site. Cranes towered over the half-built shells of condos and hotels that lined the river like a speculative stretch of a Monopoly board. Dump trucks rumbled down the main road, kicking up dust and snarling traffic. Out the taxi window, I watched groups of olive-skinned guest workers carrying plastic bags shuffle out of convenience stores and then disappear behind wire fences lined with banner ads that depicted sun-drenched resort villages and smiling ski tourists.

当时距离2014年2月初的冬奥会火炬传递还有将近一年的时间,红草地并不像个古雅奇趣的法兰西幽谷,甚至也不像全世界最大的高山建筑工地。河流两岸都是半成的公寓楼、酒店或高高矗立的起重机,看上去仿佛大富翁游戏的棋盘。翻斗车在主路上轰隆隆地开着,扬起漫天的黄尘扰乱了车流。从出租车窗口望出去,可以看见几个肤色黝黑的外来工提着购物袋从超市慢吞吞地走出,在铁丝栅栏后面消失了踪影,只有栅栏上的广告永远是阳光灿烂的度假小屋和满面春风的滑雪游客。

Rosa Khutor, the largest of the four new ski areas based a short drive apart along the valley floor, was nearly complete. It appeared much like a visitor will find it this season: two rows of pastel-colored hotels with ground-level restaurants flanking the Mzymta River; a clock tower square; lamp-lit pedestrian bridges; an indoor skating rink. When I arrived, a few families strolled the brick-lined esplanade lining the river, throwing snowballs. In the lobby of our hotel, the Tulip Inn, members of the Russian ski team lounged around with beers. Rosa Khutor, which is hosting the Olympic alpine events, ran test competitions last winter, but many had been canceled for lack of snow. Resolved not ever to let this happen again, the resort has been equipped with the most robust snow-making system in existence.

罗莎库塔滑雪场已经基本建成,在距离谷底车程最近的四个新建滑雪场中,它是最大的一个。它的模样十分符合游客的期待:姆济姆塔河两岸各有两排色调淡雅的酒店,一楼多是饭馆。附近是钟楼广场、灯光明亮的步行桥及室内溜冰场,三三两两的人群在河边的砖墁地上扔雪球。我们住进了郁金香酒店(Tulip Inn),俄罗斯滑雪队的运动员正坐在大厅里悠闲地喝啤酒。罗莎库塔滑雪场负责主办索契冬奥会的高山滑雪赛事,已经在去年冬季进行了试赛,但很多项目由于雪量不足而取消。今年,滑雪场下定决心不重蹈覆辙,装备了最强大的造雪系统。

”This is a nice present for us,” Sasha said as we rode the gondola the next morning. The storm had delivered too much of a good thing, it turned out, as the exposed upper half of the mountain — arrayed with chutes and couloirs — was closed. Sasha handed me an avalanche transceiver from his bag, and asked if I had used one before. We would be skiing inbounds and close to the lift — nothing too steep — but the implication was clear: We were, for all practical purposes, on our own. This was Russia.

“这是送给我们的一份大礼啊,”第二天早上坐缆车时萨沙对我说。可惜雪量太多也不是好事,等我们终于上了山腰之后,才发现雪山的上半部分——全是陡坡和峡谷——封闭了。萨沙从包里掏出一只雪崩收发器递给我,问我以前有没有用过这玩意儿。按照计划,我们本来可以在雪场内缆车附近的缓坡上滑雪,可是现在从各种征兆看,显然我们不能如愿了。这就是俄罗斯。

At the top of the lift, a digital board displayed ski conditions, rating the avalanche danger as four on a scale of five. “Very dangerous in alpine zone,” Sasha said.

电梯顶上的电子板上显示着滑雪指标,雪崩指数是四星级(最高五星级)。“这在高山地区,属于非常危险了,”萨沙说。

We were joined by a handful of other locals, including Inna Didenko, a blond Sochi native and competitive free rider. Than and I followed their tracks into the woods. The crystalline snow there was thigh-high and untouched; a snowboarder in neon yellow pants jokingly declared, in Russian, the universal skiing dictum of there being “no friends on a powder day” before leaving us behind.

这时我们身边走来几个本地人,包括金发碧眼的索契人因纳·狄登科(Inna Didenko),一个实力超强的野雪发烧友,我和坦就跟随这些高手走进了树林。晶莹的积雪深及大腿,但又洁白无瑕,了无人迹。一个穿着荧光黄裤子的单板滑雪板健儿开玩笑说,在俄罗斯,大家共同的滑雪理念是“雪天里没朋友”,说完就开始飞速滑行,把我们抛在了身后。

Each of us then picked our own line, first Sasha, who banked three turns and swiftly vanished behind some birch trees. I chose a route to his right. Midway down, from across the slope, I could make out Than, hooting loudly.

每个人都选了一条雪道。先是萨沙,他转了三个弯,敏捷的身影就消失在一片白桦林中。我选择了他右侧的雪道,向下滑了一半,就看见对面的山坡上正是坦的身影,他一边飞驰,一边兴奋地高呼。

That evening, at the swanky bar inside the Park Inn, I met with Jean-Louis Tuaillon, the mountain manager at Rosa Khutor. “Have you been on the road in Russia and seen how people are driving?” he asked me. I thought of my taxi driver’s slalom turns and tailgating up the winding road from the airport. “They are skiing the same way. The typical Russian experience is wild skiing.”

那天晚上在公园酒店(Park Inn)时髦的酒吧里,我遇见了罗莎库塔的山区经理让-路易斯·图埃朗(Jean-Louis Tuaillon)。“你见过俄罗斯人开车吗?”他问。我想起从机场来到这里的路上,出租车司机像障碍滑雪那样高难度转弯,在蜿蜒的公路上对前车紧追不舍。“他们滑雪也是这样的。经典的俄罗斯体验就是疯狂的雪山飞驰。”

Mr. Tuaillon was with the French company Compagnie des Alpes, which operates major resorts like Chamonix and Val d’Isère and has been tasked by Rosa Khutor’s owner with turning it into a world-class ski area. This apparently entailed making Rosa Khutor less Russian.

图埃朗先生在法国公司Compagnie des Alpes工作,它的客户是Chamonix和Val d’Isère这样的大型滑雪度假区。罗莎库塔的老板交给他们的任务是把它变成世界级滑雪场,因此它显然需要淡化自己的俄罗斯风格。

“Our goal is to have friendly people at guest services,” added Mr. Tuaillon’s colleague Jean-Marc Farini, the ski area’s general manager. “In Russia, this hasn’t been done before. You still have this Soviet legacy. People don’t care.”<-->纽约时报中英文网 http://www.qqenglish.com<-->

“我们的目标是培养一批特别友善的客服人员,”图埃朗先生的同事、滑雪场的总经理让-马克·法瑞尼(Jean-Marc Farini)说,“在俄罗斯,从没出现过和蔼的客服。打从前苏联时代就这样。没人在乎这个。”

I described my experience renting skis that morning — late-model Rossignols, with a snazzy sticker reading “CZAR” — which had involved the usual Russian formalities: relinquishing my passport at a cashier’s window in return for a paper stamped with an official-looking seal.

我对他讲述了那天上午租赁滑雪用具的经历。那是一套新型的罗西尼奥尔(Rossignol)牌滑雪装备,上面贴着时尚的“沙皇”字样贴纸。租赁过程包括在俄罗斯十分常见的一项手续:把护照押在柜台窗口,换来一张盖着印章的纸。

Mr. Farini nodded sympathetically. “For the cash register, I wanted to adopt a single line, so you go up to the first one that’s available,” he said. “But that just doesn’t work in Russia.”

法瑞尼先生点点头,深表同情。“还有收银台,我希望大家只需要排一队,哪台有空你就去哪台跟前,”他说,“但在俄罗斯,这个方法行不通。”

The next morning, we found the mountain still socked in. With the upper half of Rosa Khutor closed — still with an avalanche rating of “very dangerous” — we took a free village bus 10 minutes downriver toward the center of Krasnaya Polyana, to Gornaya Karusel (Mountain Carousel), another new ski area.

第二天早晨,山顶之路依然不通,罗莎库塔滑雪场的上半部分继续封闭,雪崩等级仍是“非常危险”,我们就搭乘了通向红草地小村的免费乡村巴士。汽车沿着河边的公路行驶了十分钟,就到了卡洛索山(Gornaya Karusel)滑雪场。

The entrance to the base gondola is beside the main road, and as we lifted off, I was afforded an aerial view of the bulldozers and earthmovers remaking this former backwater. The build-out of the Sochi Olympics — a megaproject of new tunnels, highways, ski lifts, stadiums and lodging — is said to have cost $51 billion, the highest price tag ever for the Games. But its environmental cost might add untold billions to that figure. Environmental groups point to pollution and deforestation, of Sochi National Park shrinking in size, of coastal wetlands being used as a dump, of the Mzymta River becoming unswimmable. As activists have spoken, they’ve also been detained.

从主路旁边的大门进去,面前就是通向总部基地的缆车。我们坐着缆椅升到半空,低头一看,下面是铲泥车和大型推土机在昔日死水上施工的壮观图景。索契奥运村是个大型项目,需要新建隧道、公路、上山索道、体育场和宾馆,据说总成本510亿美元,是历届冬奥会中花费最高的一次。但是,未来的环境成本恐怕要更高。环保组织指出,奥运村的建设导致了污染和森林砍伐,索契自然公园的面积正日渐缩小,海滨湿地被用作垃圾场,当地人再也不能在姆济姆塔河里游泳了。一些环保活动人士也因言获罪,遭到拘留。

The issue that has gained more attention is gay rights, following a new Russian law banning “homosexual propaganda” that went into effect earlier this year. Though there have been calls for boycotts, officially, gay tourists are welcome, and Olympic organizers have agreed to set up protest zones during the Games. This week, in what has been widely perceived as a snub, President Obama named two openly gay athletes to be part of the American delegation to Sochi — but none of the nation’s top political figures.

另一个问题吸引了更多关注,那就是同志权利,因为今年较早时候,俄罗斯一项禁止“同性恋宣传”的法规开始生效。尽管有人号召大家联合抵制那项法律,但是俄罗斯官方却声称索契冬奥会欢迎任何性取向的人参加,冬奥会组织者也批准在冬奥会期间设立专门的抗议区。12月中旬,美国总统奥巴马公布了索契冬奥会美国代表队的阵容,其中包括两名公开的同性恋运动员,人们普遍认为这项举措是对俄罗斯政策的无声谴责。这个国家的最高政治人物中没有同性恋。

Meanwhile, in response to violence promised by Islamist insurgent leaders, based just 250 miles or so from Sochi in the republics of Chechnya and Dagestan, Russia has put in place unprecedented security, including the use of underwater sonar and drones.

这段时期,距离索契仅仅250英里外的车臣共和国和达吉斯坦发生了伊斯兰武装分子制造的恐怖活动,因此俄罗斯采取了前所未有的严格安保措施,包括禁止使用水下声纳仪和遥控飞机。

That security plan also includes armed soldiers at ski lifts. After two gondolas, we wended our way down an empty, untracked chute along the ski boundary that fed into a spacious glade. The air was warmer than the previous day, cementing the powder as we descended. Our trail petered out at the edge of a dirt service road, which we had to walk across to reach the chairlift. The security guard manning the lift glared disapprovingly at our muddy boots, muttering something to Sasha, who lectured something back. The guard shrugged and looked away.

安保方案还包括在滑雪场的上山索道内配备武装卫兵。我们坐了两段缆车,下行到滑雪场边界旁一片人迹罕至的空旷陡坡,附近是宽阔的林间空地。天气比前一天温暖了些,下山时松散的雪粉已经开始结块。这条路渐渐变窄,最后在拐角处成为一条土路。想要去坐缆椅,这是必经之路。操作缆椅的保安不满地盯着我们脏兮兮的靴子,对萨沙咕哝了一句什么,萨沙奋然反驳。保安耸耸肩,目光转向了别处。

Sasha later explained: “He says to us, ‘You cannot get on with your dirty boots.’ I tell him, ‘You are not the boss. You have to be hospitable to the guests.’”

萨沙后来对我解释:“他对我们说:‘穿着脏鞋不能进来。’我告诉他:‘你又不是老板,讲话最好客气点儿。’”

Around midday, the clouds briefly lifted, and for the first time I glimpsed the jagged contour of the summit ridge. Gornaya Karusel is a much smaller ski area than Rosa Khutor, but Sasha finds its varied terrain and tree skiing superior. “Better for free riding,” he said. Eventually, all four ski areas surrounding Krasnaya Polyana will be linked by a single lift pass.

正午时分,浓云散去,我第一次看清了蜿蜒的山脊线。卡洛索山滑雪场比罗莎库塔规模小很多,但萨沙发现这里的树林和丰富地形其实滑起雪来更惬意。“又没花钱,真不错,”他说。以后,游客只需要买一张索道通票,就可以在红草地周围的四个滑雪场畅通无阻。

We took a few laps down a wide-open bowl, before stopping in at a log chalet for lunch. The place was packed with Russians. I ordered a bowl of solyanka, a hearty red soup, and a glass of mulled wine, and we chatted about the differences between skiing in Russia and North America. Than and I had once taught skiing in Crested Butte, Colo. Sasha has never been to the States. “American people are very interesting to me,” he said. “If a bad skier has fallen, nobody is just waiting around. All come to help! If I fall, I must stand up myself. Because it’s my experience. It is, I don’t know, the school of life.”

我们下行到一片开放的冰斗谷玩了一场,然后走进一座小木屋吃午饭。屋里挤满了俄罗斯人。我点了一碗索扬克汤(一种丰盛的红色汤汁)和一杯加了香料的热葡萄酒,大家谈起在俄罗斯滑雪和在北美滑雪有什么不同。我和坦都曾经在美国科罗拉多州王冠峰(Crested Butte)教过滑雪课,而萨沙却从没去过美国。“我觉得美国人特别有意思,”他说,“如果一个滑雪低手摔倒了,美国人不会在旁边干等。每个人都会跑过来帮忙!但是在俄罗斯,摔倒了只能自己爬起来。这是我的亲身经历。这就是……怎么说呢,这就是人生的教训。”

I looked out the window. Sleet had begun to fall, orienting my thoughts toward a sauna. We decided to take a final run. Sasha was eager to show us a densely forested area he called the Magic Forest that had “many Christmas trees.” From the top of the lift, we traversed the slope, first passing by the entrance to a bowl where a sign was posted in Russian and English: “Driving outside of the lines is forbidden.”

窗外,雨水夹杂细小的雪粒纷纷洒落,让我想起白气弥漫的桑拿。大家决定,再最后享受一场雪山飞驰。萨沙急切地想带我们去看一片所谓的“神秘森林”,据说那儿有“很多圣诞树”。我们坐着缆椅从山顶滑下,横越山坡,掠过一道通向冰斗谷的大门,那里有块英俄双语的标语牌:“禁止驶出线外。”

Sasha grinned. “But if you do it,” he said, “no one will stop you.”

萨沙笑了。“但你真要出去了,”他说,“也没人拦着。”

IF YOU GO

实用信息

Rosa Khutor’s website (en.rosaski.com) contains information about lift prices and lodging.

罗莎库塔滑雪场的网站(en.rosaski.com)上有索道票价与住宿信息。

The clean, three-star Tulip Inn (tulipinnrosakhutor.com; 7-862-243-0000) is, like all hotels in the base area, just steps from the gondola and rental shop. Rooms from 5,800 rubles ($185 at 32 rubles to the dollar).

三星级的郁金香酒店(Tulip Inn; tulipinnrosakhutor.com; 7-862-243-0000)整洁卫生,跟滑雪场附近的所有酒店一样,旁边就是缆车和租赁店。客房价格5800卢布(约等于185美元。1美元等于32卢布)起。

Or try the Park Inn by Radisson (parkinn.com/hotel-rosakhutor; 7-862-243-1111), which has a popular bar and Bavarian-style gastro pub. Hotels can help arrange airport transportation, as well as issue lift tickets.

或者去雷迪逊酒店集团下属的公园酒店(Park Inn; parkinn.com/hotel-rosakhutor; 7-862-243-1111),有深受欢迎的酒吧和巴伐利亚风格的美食吧。酒店可安排机场接送及缆椅票预订。

Skiing with a guide at Rosa Khutor is not necessary, but the experienced “free riders” at Adventure Studio (snowsports.ru) know the Krasnaya Polyana region well. Hiring a mountain guide costs 6,000 rubles a person per day, or 2,500 rubles a person for a group of three.

在罗莎库塔滑雪,教练不是必需的,不过冒险工作室(Adventure Studio; snowsports.ru)经验丰富的“自由骑士”对红草地小村附近的地形了如指掌。请个高山滑雪教练大概是每人每天6000卢布,三人团体请一位教练的费用是2500卢布。

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