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36小时玩转德国杜塞尔多夫

36 Hours in Düsseldorf, Germany
36小时玩转德国杜塞尔多夫

Don’t pity Düsseldorf. Yes, it probably has a much lower profile than it should, far lower than bigger cities like Berlin and Munich — even arguably lower than that of its nearby archrival, Cologne. Yes, its soccer team, Fortuna Düsseldorf, was recently relegated from the top division to the second Bundesliga. And no, the capital of the North-Rhine Westphalia state is not regularly considered one of Europe’s top tourist destinations. But let this be your advantage. The artsy, cultivated hometown of both the great Romantic poet Heinrich Heine and the German punk-rock legend Die Toten Hosen, Düsseldorf has more than enough attractions for a rich cultural weekend — or even longer. Although the city is celebrating the 725th anniversary of its founding this year, Düsseldorf’s real draws are to be found in its dozens of new developments: stylish contemporary architecture, impressive modern art, cool new restaurants and even new takes on altbier, the local brew that ranks among Germany’s best beer styles.

不要为杜塞尔多夫感到遗憾。没错,或许它本来不需要这么低调——比柏林和慕尼黑这样的大城市低调得多,甚至可能比自己的主要竞争对手科隆还要低调。对,这里的杜塞尔多夫和谐足球俱乐部(Fortuna Düsseldorf)最近从欧洲足球俱乐部降级到德国足球甲级联赛。哦不,作为德国北莱茵-威斯特法伦州的首府,杜塞尔多夫也不是常规意义上的欧洲顶级旅游目的地。可是,这一点也将成为你这次旅行的优势。这座洋溢着艺术与文化气息的城市诞生了伟大的浪漫主义诗人海因里希·海涅(Heinrich Heine)和德国朋克摇滚的传奇之星死裤子乐队(Die Toten Hosen)。杜塞尔多夫的魅力足以让你欣然度过一个丰富多彩的文艺周末,甚至更长时间。尽管它迄今已经有725周年的历史,但却展现出无数的新气象:时尚的当代建筑、醒目的现代艺术和超酷的新式餐馆。此外,本地酿造的老啤酒(altbier)在德国最佳啤酒风味大赏中名列前茅。

Clockwise from far left: the Rheinturm telecommunications tower, Hofgarten park, beers at Zum Schlüssel, toys at Saba’s and a view from the Rheinturm tower.
左上起顺时针:莱茵通讯塔(Rheinturm telecommunications tower)、宫廷花园(Hofgarten park)、在Zum Schlüssel啜饮啤酒、莎芭氏(Saba’s)的玩具、从莱茵塔俯瞰风景。

FRIDAY

星期五

4 p.m.

下午4点

1. Before Nightfall

1. 日落之前

Called the “the longest bar in the world” by locals, the Altstadt — or Old Town — turns into a boisterous, noisy scene come nightfall, when big crowds turn out for the local specialty, altbier. Friday afternoon, however, is an ideal time to sample this moderately bitter, deep amber brew before things get too busy. Start with one of the historic breweries like Zum Schlüssel, or the dark, wood-paneled Uerige, then see how the two traditional favorites compare with the Altstadt newcomer, Brauerei Kürzer, which began producing altbier at its airy and modern brewpub in 2010.

本地人把Altstadt(或曰“老城”)称作“全世界最长的酒吧街”,每天暮色弥漫时,这条街就呈现出一派火热欢腾的气象。络绎不绝的人群来到这里,争相品尝本地独有的老啤酒。然而,如果你想品尝这种口味略苦的深琥珀色佳酿,又不希望环境太过嘈杂,最好选择周五下午。起点可以是某个历史悠久、古色古香的啤酒屋,比如Zum Schlüssel啤酒屋,或者木墙环绕、环境幽暗的Uerige啤酒屋,一直以来,这是酒友们最爱的两个去处。你可以再去老城的后起之秀Brauerei Kürzer看看,看它与老前辈相比有何过人之处。这家宽敞的现代化啤酒屋从2010年开始出售自产的老啤酒。

5 p.m.

下午5点

2. Street Cred

2. 逛大街

You’ll find plenty of well-known international brands in the Altstadt, but for indie shopping, head south to the Lorettostrasse in the up-and-coming neighborhood of Unterbilk, where cool boutiques started opening about five years ago. Check out the unusual children’s toys and wooden puzzles at Saba’s, then shop for vintage-inspired men’s clothing at the five-year-old Uwe van Afferden, where heritage American brands share space with rare German ones like Merz b. Schwanen and the shop’s own sailor-style linen jackets (340 euros, or about $450 at $1.33 to the euro), available with matching high-water pants.

在老城,你会看到许多国际知名品牌,但如果想别具一格的东西,就要向南走到附近越来越红火的Unterbilk街区,找到Lorettostrasse。五年前,这里雨后春笋般冒出来许多超酷的精品店。走进莎芭氏(Saba’s)看看那些与众不同的玩具和木制拼图,再到有五年历史的Uwe van Afferden服装店买几件复古风格的经典男装。在这家店里,美国老字号品牌服装与珍贵的德国品牌(如Merz b. Schwanen)争辉,还出售本店原创的水手风丹宁夹克衫(340欧元;以1欧元相当于1.33美元计算,大概450美元)以及与之搭配的九分裤。

7:30 p.m.

晚上7点半

3. Gehry Constructions

3. 格里建筑群

Ten minutes from Lorettostrasse, Düsseldorf’s formerly run-down harbor is now known as the MedienHafen, or Media Harbor, the home of several broadcasting companies and some of the city’s best modern architecture, including three small but stunningly fluid buildings by Frank Gehry, as well as new hotels and recently converted industrial spaces. Watch the sun set behind the colorful constructions, then head for Gehry’s, a restaurant named after the architect, which serves oversize steaks, chops and chateaubriands of Argentine and American beef inside one of Mr. Gehry’s own buildings. Dinner for two without wine: about 90 euros.

Lorettostrasse十分钟路程之外,就是杜塞尔多夫一座荒废的港口,而今名叫MedienHafen,也就是传媒港。这里云集了好几家广播公司和全城最漂亮的现代建筑,包括三座由建筑大师弗兰克·格里(Frank Gehry)设计的房屋,规模虽小,却惊艳灵动。也有一些新建的酒店和最近转换用途的工业区。你可以遥望这片华屋在黄昏下的风景,然后去格里氏饭店(Gehry’s)。这家餐馆以建筑大师格里为名,地点也在大师旧居之内,供应分量超大的阿根廷和美式牛排、猪排、夏多布里昂牛排及牛肉。双人正餐(不含酒水)大约花费90欧元。

    蛐蛐英语 www.qqenglish.com

10 p.m.

晚上10点

4. Bar None

4. 泡吧

Though newer arrivals like Ellington’s have stolen some of the spotlight, locals swear by the well-mixed cocktails and the intimate, speakeasy atmosphere at Bar Alexander, not far from Lorettostrasse in Unterbilk, and the related Bar Alexandra, about 10 minutes south in the Bilk district. Grab a house specialty like Bar Alexandra’s bittersweet Bilk Perfect (rye, bitters, Italian and French vermouth, gum syrup), put away your German-English dictionary, and jump into one of the flowing, friendly (and sometimes English) conversations nearby (cocktails, about 8 euros).

尽管Ellington’s之类的新秀抢走了一些风头,但本地人仍然喜欢来到亚历山大酒吧(Bar Alexander,位于Unterbilk街区的Lorettostrasse附近)和与此相关的亚历姗德拉酒吧(Bar Alexandra,位于Bilk街区向南大约10分钟路程),端着精心调制的鸡尾酒,在私密的情调中卿卿我我。点一杯啤酒屋的特色佳酿,比如亚历姗德拉酒吧的Bilk Perfect(尝起来苦甜苦甜的,含有黑麦、苦味剂、意大利和法兰西苦艾酒及胶糖浆),把德语词典扔到一旁,轻松地加入小伙伴们欢乐而友好的闲聊(有时候用英语)。鸡尾酒大约花费8欧元。

11:30 p.m.

晚上11:30

5. High Lights

5. 亮点在高处

Though the gigantic Rheinturm telecommunications tower has overlooked Düsseldorf and its environs since 1981, just this spring the tower’s observation platform saw the opening of M 168, a club and lounge named after its height in meters, offering grand views of the twinkling skyline until 2 a.m. Over a final nightcap at 550 feet above the ground, you should have no trouble figuring out just exactly where your hotel is.

1981年,巨人般伟岸的莱茵通讯塔拔地而起,在此地顾盼自雄。今年春天,这座高塔的观景台上出现了一间名叫M168的俱乐部兼沙龙,名字来源于自己的高度——168米。它一直营业到凌晨两点,人们在这里能够欣赏夜空美景,远眺群星灿烂的天际线。午夜里举起酒杯,从这距离地面550英尺的高空俯视城市,你一定能轻而易举地找到自己落脚的酒店。

SATURDAY

星期六

11 a.m.

上午11点

6. Sauerbraten or Sushi?

6. 莱茵糖醋焖牛肉还是寿司?

Yes, this is Germany, but the country’s largest Japanese community has its home base on Immermannstrasse, just off the Oststrasse U-Bahn station. Explore the weird crackers and crazy Japanese candies at quirky shops like Shochiku, then stop for a pick-me-up at Toykio, an ultramodern toy shop, art gallery and cafe. For a cheap lunch, grab the 7-euro bento box at the Maruyasu deli. Or splurge at the exquisite, Michelin-starred Nagaya, where the cuisine alternates gracefully from Japanese to Continental and back again, pairing sous-vide French beef with wasabi butter and tender roast veal with asparagus and miso sauce. At lunch, a multicourse tasting menu is about 65 euros, without sake.

是啊,这是德国,但全德最大的日裔社区就在Immermannstrasse,一出Oststrasse地铁站就到了。在奇趣横生的店铺(比如Shochiku)中见识怪异的饼干和疯狂的日本糖果,去超级现代的玩具店兼画廊兼咖啡馆Toykio挑两件可心的玩意儿。如果想吃简单的平价午餐,可以到Maruyasu熟食店买个7欧元的便当。你也可以到华丽的米其林星级餐馆Nagaya,这里菜肴精美,菜式丰富,巧妙地融合了日本料理和欧陆大餐的风味,比如真空烹调的法国牛肉配上芥末黄油,嫩烤小牛肉加天冬和味噌酱汁。一顿包含好几道大菜的美味午餐大概花费65欧元,不含清酒。

2 p.m.

下午2点

7. Grand Houses

7. 华丽的老房子

Though most of Düsseldorf was destroyed during World War II, a few neighborhoods still show off the city’s beautiful old architecture. To get a glimpse of what most of the city once looked like, take a quick U-Bahn ride out to Belsenplatz in the Oberkassel district and wander among the grand Art Nouveau buildings on quiet streets like Barmerstrasse, Glücksbergerstrasse and Steffenstrasse. Though historic, Oberkassel is also home to the city’s newest altbier, brewed since 2011 at the atmospheric Brauhaus Alter Bahnhof, a brewpub inside the neighborhood’s former train station.

虽然杜塞尔多夫城的建筑在“二战”中多半被毁,但是,仍有几片街区能够展现这座城市的古建筑之美。如果想浮光掠影地了解它昔日的风采,可乘坐地铁去往Oberkassel街区的Belsenplatz,在静谧的Barmerstrasse、Glücksbergerstrasse 和Steffenstrasse大街上徜徉,在华丽的新艺术派旧建筑群之间漫步,领略艺术的魅力。Oberkassel街区尽管历史悠久,却酿造出了杜塞尔多夫最新的老啤酒。是的,Brauhaus Alter Bahnhof啤酒屋从2011年开始酿造这种新式老啤。这家酒屋位于该街区一座火车站的旧址内,情调十足。

3:30 p.m.

下午3:30

8. Local Beuys

8. 本地牛人博伊斯

With so many great museums to choose from, it can be hard to figure out where to begin. Start at the Kunstsammlung Nordrhein-Westfalen’s main museum building — known as K20 — which was updated with a shiny extension in 2010. The extensive modern collections include significant works by Klee, Picasso, Braque, Mondrian and Magritte, as well as installations by its hometown hero Joseph Beuys and wild sculptures by the British-born Tony Cragg, director of the Art Academy.

这里的博物馆太多了,究竟该从哪里开始,真让人举棋不定。不如从北威斯特法伦博物馆(Kunstsammlung Nordrhein-Westfalen)的主馆K20开始吧。2010年扩建之后,K20又有了光鲜亮丽的外馆。这里陈列着大量的现代艺术精品,包括克里(Klee)、毕加索(Picasso)、布拉克(Braque)、蒙德里安(Mondrian)和马格利特(Magritte)的重要作品,以及本地杰出的艺术家约瑟夫·博伊斯(Joseph Beuys)的装置作品以及英国艺术家托尼·克拉格(Tony Cragg)风格强烈的雕塑。克拉格是杜塞尔多夫艺术学院的院长。

5 p.m.

下午5点

9. Into the Garden

9. 花园深处

Get some downtime with a quiet walk through the Hofgarten, one of Germany’s oldest public parks, a refreshing mixture of English and French gardens, 200-year-old trees and a small branch of the Düssel, the Rhine tributary that gave the city its name. Then, once you’ve recharged, head to the park’s western end, just north of which you’ll find the massive Kunstpalast, a collection of art from antiquity to the present day, including a two-floor gallery dedicated to Rubens.

踏上宫廷花园寂静的小路,给自己一段从容自在的时间。这是德国最古老的公共园林之一,包含多座英伦及法兰西风格的花园,林间遍植二百岁以上的古树,景色清幽宜人。莱茵河的支流杜塞尔河从园林之间穿流而过,这座城市也因此得名。然后,若你已经感觉再次充满力量,就去花园西北部,那里有一座巨大的艺术宫(Kunstpalast),其中的收藏品从古董到当代艺术品应有尽有,而且有一座占地两层的鲁本斯(Rubens)画廊。

9 p.m.

晚上9点

10. Have a Fling

10. 纵情欢乐

Once a working-class industrial neighborhood northwest of the main train station, the Flingern district has been converting its charismatic old factories into lofts, clubs and trendy restaurants. In a former soap factory, the 18-month-old Dr. Thompson’s offers live jazz and such creative pizzas as honey-mustard salmon with crème fraîche alongside meal-size salads and Spanish-style snacks. Don’t worry about going anywhere else tonight: once the dining’s done, D.J.’s will spin house and funk on the dance floor until the morning. (Dinner for two without wine: about 80 euros.)

Flingern区位于大火车站的西北方向,过去是一个工人阶级的厂区,而现在,这里独具魅力的旧厂房已经改装为高筒阁楼、酒吧和新潮的餐馆。汤普森博士(Dr. Thompson’s)酒吧一年半前开业,过去这里是一座肥皂厂,而今却变成了出演现场爵士乐和品尝新奇比萨的地方,美食还有蜂蜜芥末三文鱼加法式奶油、足份沙拉和西班牙小吃。不必担心,别的去处同样有趣:饭后可以来到D.J.’s的舞池,纵情欢乐到清晨(双人餐大约80欧元,不含酒水)。

SUNDAY

星期天

10 a.m.

上午10点

11. Into the Tunnel

11. 进入隧道

Take in the fresh air during a final walk along the broad Rhine, following the embankment from the Altstadt toward the Rheinturm. Once you reach the KIT Café, you’ll see why the air is so nice: the bulk of Düsseldorf’s crosstown traffic is running below-ground through the enormous Rheinufer Tunnel, underneath the embankment. Enjoy a second breakfast of eggs, sausages, cheese and bread on the terrace of the ground-floor cafe (8 euros), then head down into KIT, or Kunst im Tunnel, a walled-in underground exhibition space that opened inside the tunnel in 2007. That slight bump you heard? The muffled sound of thousands of cars and trucks running on either side and directly below the artworks.

沿着宽阔的莱茵河,从老城漫步到莱茵通讯塔,深深地吸一口清新的空气。一旦到达KIT咖啡馆(KIT Café),你就会明白空气为什么这么好:原来杜塞尔多夫穿城而过的汽车大都行驶在低于地面、低于河岸的Rheinufer大隧道里。在地面餐馆的露台上再次享受一顿早餐,有鸡蛋、香肠、奶酪和面包(大约8欧元),然后向下走进KIT或者Kunst im Tunnel。这是一家地下展览馆,选址就在隧道之内,2007年建成。听,是不是有什么动静?对,那是成千上万的汽车和卡车在这些艺术展品之下双向穿行,留下了遥远而沉闷的声响。

THE DETAILS

实用信息

1. Zum Schlüssel, Bolkerstrasse 43; www.zumschluessel.de. Uerige, Berger Strasse 1; uerige.de. Brauerei Kürzer, Kurze Strasse 18-20; brauerei-kuerzer.de.

1. Zum Schlüssel, Bolkerstrasse 43; www.zumschluessel.de. Uerige, Berger Strasse 1;uerige.de. Brauerei Kürzer, Kurze Strasse 18-20; brauerei-kuerzer.de.

2. Saba’s, Lorettostrasse 36; sabas-shop.de. Uwe van Afferden, Lorettostrasse 35; van-afferden.com.

2. 莎芭氏(Saba’s),Lorettostrasse 36;sabas-shop.de。Uwe van Afferden,Lorettostrasse 35;van-afferden.com。

3. MedienHafen. Gehry’s, Neuer Zollhof 3; gehrys.de.

3. 传媒港格里氏饭店,Neuer Zollhof 3;gehrys.de。

4. Ellington’s, Scheurenstrasse 5. Bar Alexander, Düsselstrasse 71; bar-alexander.com. Bar Alexandra, Merowingerstrasse 18; bar-alexandra.com.

4. Ellington’s, Scheurenstrasse 5. 亚历山大酒吧,Düsselstrasse 71;bar-alexander.com. 亚历姗德拉酒吧,Merowingerstrasse 18;bar-alexandra.com。

5. M 168, Stromstrasse 20; guennewig.de/drheintu.

5. M 168, Stromstrasse 20; guennewig.de/drheintu.

6. Shochiku, Immermannstrasse 15; shochiku.eu. Toykio, Immermannstrasse 18; toykio.de. Maruyasu deli, Immermannstrasse 23; www.maruyasu.de. Nagaya, Klosterstrasse 42; nagaya.de.

6. Shochiku, Immermannstrasse 15; shochiku.eu. Toykio, Immermannstrasse 18;toykio.de. Maruyasu deli, Immermannstrasse 23; www.maruyasu.de. Nagaya,Klosterstrasse 42; nagaya.de.

7. Belsenplatz. Brauhaus Alter Bahnhof, Belsenstrasse 2; brauhaus-alterbahnhof.de.

7. Belsenplatz. Brauhaus Alter Bahnhof, Belsenstrasse 2; brauhaus-alterbahnhof.de.

8. K20, Kunstsammlung Nordrhein-Westfalen’s main museum building, Grabbeplatz 5; kunstsammlung.de.

8. K20,北威斯特法伦博物馆, Grabbeplatz 5;kunstsammlung.de.

9. Hofgarten. Kunstpalast, Ehrenhof 4-5; smkp.de.

9. 宫廷花园,艺术宫,Ehrenhof 4-5;smkp.de。

10. Dr. Thompson’s, Erkrather Strasse 232; drthompsons.info.

10. 汤普森博士,Erkrather Strasse 232; drthompsons.info.

11. Kunst im Tunnel, Mannesmannufer 1b; kunst-im-tunnel.de.

11. Kunst im Tunnel展览馆,Mannesmannufer 1b; kunst-im-tunnel.de.

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