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36小时玩转迈阿密海滩

更新时间:2014/3/14 13:24:54 来源:纽约时报中文网 作者:佚名

36 Hours in South Beach, Miami Beach
36小时玩转迈阿密海滩

A weekend in South Beach ought not to begin with “What to pack?” but rather, “What to pursue?” Do you long for the South Beach of painted-on dresses, frozen margaritas and electric neon? The South Beach of stylish new (or renovated) hotels (Gale, Lord Balfour, SLS South Beach) and restaurants (Yardbird Southern Table & Bar, Khong River House, Tongue & Cheek)? Or the South Beach of yesteryear, of pastel Art Deco buildings, museums and monuments? Perhaps you simply crave ...the beach. Miami can be whatever you want it to be — laid back, decked out, gay, straight, a family recess, a single’s playground — which is precisely what makes it such an effortless getaway. In this dreamland at the southern tip of Miami Beach, you can choose your own adventure.

在南海滩度周末应该不会以“准备什么行李?”开始,而是“到底要玩什么?”你渴望的是南海滩色彩缤纷的衣裙、冰冻玛格丽塔和电子霓虹灯?还是南海滩装饰优雅的全新(或翻新)酒店(包括Gale酒店、鲍尔弗勋爵酒店[Lord Balfour]、SLS南海滩酒店)和就餐场所(南方新兵餐吧[Yardbird Southern Table & Bar]、湄公河饭店[Khong River House]、舌头和脸饭店[Tongue & Cheek] )?或者是南海滩的历史风情,包括色彩鲜艳的装饰艺术建筑、博物馆和纪念碑?也许,你渴望的只是……海滩。迈阿密拥有你想要的一切——轻松休闲,装饰漂亮,无论你是同性恋还是异性恋,无论全家出游还是单身贵族,都能找到适合的去处。正是这些原因让迈阿密成为万人追捧的度假胜地。在迈阿密海滩最南边的尖角上,你可以轻松享受自己的探索之旅。

Clockwise from top left: view from Juvia; the Colony Theater; bikes on the beach; a margarita with Coronas; lifeguard stand. Middle: a dish at Juvia.
左上起顺时针:从Juvia餐吧看到的风景;殖民地剧场;海滩上的自行车;一杯加了科罗娜啤酒的玛格丽塔;保镖的岗亭。中:Juvia餐吧的一道菜。

FRIDAY

星期五

4 p.m.

下午4点

1. Shop and Stroll

1. 购物和散步

South Beach is a breeze to tour by foot or bicycle (you can rent a DecoBike for $6 for an hour or $24 a day; a complete price list is at Decobike.com/pricing), and an easy place to begin is Lincoln Road Mall. Retailers high and low line this wide outdoor pedestrian shopping and eating zone between Alton Road and Washington Avenue, where you can pick up South Beach essentials like crystal embellished Havaianas flip-flops and sarongs in tropical hues. You’ll also find coffee shops, ice cream parlors, art galleries, bars, clubs and retail chains like Anthropologie, Madewell and Kiehl’s. Designer names dot the surrounding streets. In other words: pack light.

只需步行或骑车,你就能无障碍玩遍南海滩(可以租一辆装饰艺术的自行车,价值每小时6美元,或每天24美元;完整的价格列表见Decobike.com/pricing)。起点一般是林肯路购物广场(Lincoln Road Mall)。这个露天的购物兼美食广场位于Alton Road和Washington Avenue之间,多家不同档次的摊贩排在大路的两侧,顾客可以买到南海滩的重要产品,包括缀有水晶的哈瓦纳人字拖和热带色彩十足的沙笼。那里还有咖啡馆、冰淇淋店、画廊、酒吧和多种品牌的连锁店,包括Anthropologie家居、Madewell休闲服和科颜氏化妆品(Kiehl’s)。附近的街道也有不少设计品牌的门店。换句话说:出发时不要带太多行李。

7 p.m.

下午7点

2. Dinner Al Fresco

2. 露天晚餐

For some, nothing beats the absurdity of drinking a frozen margarita the size of a noodle bowl stuffed with two upside-down bottles of Corona beer (yes, people do this) at one of the tables lining the sidewalk on Ocean Drive. This touristy beachside stretch of restaurants doesn’t offer the finest cuisine, though what the area lacks in culinary flavor it makes up for with flavor of a different sort — an endless parade of creatively dressed (or underdressed) revelers enjoying the breeze off the ocean. More refined restaurants, like Altamare and YUCA, are on Lincoln Road. For some of the best outdoor gawking, seafood lovers can head over to SushiSamba and take in the unofficial fashion show with an irresistible plate of rock shrimp tempura ($17) and specialty rolls like the Ezo (salmon, asparagus, onion, chives, sesame, tempura flakes and wasabi mayonnaise; $13).

坐在海洋大道(Ocean Drive)路边的餐桌前,享受一杯面碗大小、上面倒插两瓶科罗娜啤酒的冰冻玛格丽塔。什么事情能比这更荒诞呢?而当地人的确就是这样做的。这个面对游客的海滩就餐区并不能提供最好的美食,但它用其他东西弥补了这个缺陷——无数衣着充满创意(或穿着清凉)的享乐主义者欢天喜地享受这里的海风。Altamare和YUCA等较为高档的餐馆则位于林肯路。热爱海鲜又喜欢露天就餐的人请到寿司桑巴舞饭店(SushiSamba),欣赏那里非正式的时装表演以及包括整盘子的石头虾天妇罗(17美元)和包括Ezo卷(三文鱼、芦笋、洋葱、香葱、芝麻、天妇罗片和芥末蛋黄酱;13美元)在内的各种特色寿司卷。

9 p.m.

晚上9点

3. Hotel Crawl

3. 酒店观赏游

After dark, when the sun-kissed passers-by are but shadows, it’s time for another walk, this time to check out Ocean Drive’s Art Deco hotels like Colony, Boulevard and Starlite illuminated in neon blue, pink and red. You can head to a club (Cameo, Mansion, Nikki Beach) afterward, or for a more casual night, stop by Hotel Victor, just past the mansion once owned by the designer Gianni Versace. Here you can sit at a sidewalk table with a glass of wine and enjoy live music on the hotel’s porch. If you’re not in the mood for drinks, do as others do — watch (dance, even) from the street. Speaking of which, walk farther north on Ocean to the Palace, a gay restaurant and bar, and you might be lucky enough to catch a sidewalk drag show. Those in search of a little glamour should continue their stroll to Collins Avenue to tour the lobbies and bars of classic Miami hotels like the Delano with its dark, intimate corners and, if you desire a more boisterous scene, the vast, blue-hued Fontainebleau.

暮色降临,麦色肌肤的过客都变成了暗影,是时候再来一次悠闲漫步了。这一次我们专门欣赏海洋大道上的装饰艺术酒店,比如殖民地酒店(Colony)、林荫大道酒店(Boulevard)和星光酒店(Starlite),大都装饰着蓝色、粉色或红色的霓虹灯。 之后你可以去俱乐部(比如浮雕[Cameo]、华厦[Mansion]和尼克海滩[Nikki Beach])。然后,为了更加放松的夜晚,在维克多酒店(Hotel Victor)停留一下。去酒店的道路会经过设计师詹尼·范思哲(Gianni Versace)一度拥有的房子。在这里,你可以坐在路边的桌前,手握一杯葡萄酒,欣赏酒店大堂里的现场音乐。如果不想喝酒,就学着别人坐在街边观赏别人(你甚至可以跳舞)。对了,从那里沿着海洋大道继续向北,可以到达同志餐吧“宫殿 (Palace)”。如果你运气好的话,还可以站在路边欣赏变装秀。喜欢华丽范儿的就继续前行到科林斯大道(Collins Avenue),观摩经典迈阿密酒店精美的大堂和酒吧,比如德拉诺酒店(Delano)幽暗而惊悚的角落。如果你喜欢热闹,就去华丽阔大、蓝色调的枫丹白露酒店(Fontainebleau)。

SATURDAY

星期六

9 a.m.

上午9点

4. Morning Reading

4. 晨光阅读

Begin the day with an international newspaper and a sidewalk table at the News Cafe, a restaurant, bar and newsstand open 24 hours. Its halcyon days are gone, but the tables still fill up with tourists and a smattering of locals thanks to the reasonably affordable prices, full breakfast menu and prime people-watching location near the beach. The breakfast special (two eggs with fries; bacon, ham, sausage or turkey sausage; juice, coffee or tea; and bread) is $10.50. French toast, pancakes or Belgian waffles are $7.75. For a more sophisticated brunch (beginning at 11:30 a.m.), head a few blocks north to BLT Steak at the Betsy Hotel, a renovated structure that captures an old-fashioned charm. Dine indoors or out on the porch from a menu that goes beyond the basics: almond brioche French toast with cinnamon-caramelized bananas ($14), buttermilk pancakes with blueberries and orange blossom water syrup ($12), and the BLT Popover, an interpretation of eggs Benedict with béchamel and Gruyère ($14).

在新闻餐吧 (News Cafe)用临街餐桌上的一份国际报纸开始新的一天。新闻餐吧集饭店、酒吧和报刊亭为一身,24小时营业。它的全盛时期已经过去,但因其合理的价格、丰盛的早餐菜单和适合看人的地理位置,店里仍然挤满了大量游客和少数当地人。特别早餐(两个鸡蛋;培根、火腿、香肠或火鸡香肠任选一种;果汁、咖啡或茶任选一种;还有面包)只卖10.50美元。法式吐司、煎饼或比利时华夫饼7.75美元。若想吃一顿比较复杂的早午餐(11:30开始),请向北走几个街区到Betsy Hotel 酒店的BLT牛排馆(BLT Steak)。这家重修过的酒店有一种古雅的风情。顾客可以在室内就餐,也可以在大堂前露天吃饭。菜单内容丰富,杏仁奶油吐司加配有月桂焦糖酱料的香蕉(14美元),脱脂奶油煎饼搭配蓝莓和香橙花糖浆(12美元),BLT泡泡套餐(BLT Popover)包括本尼迪克特蛋、白汁调料味和格律耶尔干酪(14美元)。

11 a.m.

上午11点

5. Sun and Surf

5. 阳光和冲浪

The afternoon is for relaxing amid miles of white sand. Do so at a free public beach. A complete list of beaches is at Miamiandbeaches.com; the South Beach area is generally considered to be from Ocean Drive and Fifth Street to 21st Street and Collins Avenue. Can’t lie still? Lummus Park (Ocean Drive between Fifth and 15th streets) has beach volleyball and a playground, while South Pointe Park (1 Washington Avenue) has interactive water features, a “tot lot” playground and an observation deck. Both parks have public restrooms. There’s no need to leave the beach for lunch, though there are plenty of waterfront restaurants. Simply pick up food at a nearby deli or grocery store, like Art Deco supermarket, before you unfurl your beach blanket. Those who want a scene (music, money, pretty young things) can dip into one of the nascent hotels, like SLS Hotel South Beach, where you can eat at Hyde Beach, a nightclub that during lunchtime offers a menu created by the chef José Andrés (burgers, $20; tuna ceviche, $16) beside the pool. Just don’t forget your wallet; calories aren’t the only things that add up.

下午就去数英里长的白沙滩上放松。请确保你处在公共海滩。完整的海滩列表可到这个网站查询:Miamiandbeaches.com;南海滩地区通常界定为从海洋大道和第五街到21街和科林斯大道之间的区域。无法静静躺着什么也不做?鲁姆斯公园(Lummus Park;第五街和15街之间的海洋大道)有沙滩排球场和游乐场,而南岬公园(South Pointe Park;1 Washington Avenue)拥有互动式水上设施、小型儿童游乐场和观景甲板。两个公园都有公共卫生间。尽管海滨地区有许多饭店,但没必要离开海滩去吃晚饭。只需收起沙滩毛巾,到附近的熟食店或杂货店随便买点吃的,比如装饰艺术超市(Art Deco supermarket)。那些希望看到不俗场景(音乐、金钱、漂亮人体)的人,可以到几家新兴的酒店,比如SLS南海滩酒店,然后在一家叫“海德沙滩(Hyde Beach)”的俱乐部吃饭,午餐时分在泳池边享受有大厨若泽·安德雷斯(José Andrés)烹制的美食(汉堡20美元;酸橙汁腌金枪鱼16美元)。只是别忘了你的钱包:在这里迅速增长的可不只是卡路里。

2 p.m.

下午2点

6. Art and Architecture

6. 艺术和建筑

Miami’s sizable Art Deco district has hundreds of historic buildings from the 1920s through the 1940s, many of them prime examples of the period’s favorite architectural style. Think pastel hues and architecture evocative of ships. Ninety-minute walking tours of the district depart from the Art Deco Welcome Center each day at 10:30 a.m. (there’s an additional tour on Thursdays at 6:30 p.m.) and include stops at hotels and restaurants, and other commercial buildings ($20). If you want to go at your own pace, self-guided audio-tours are available ($15). The Welcome Center offers other, less frequent tours of the area, including a gay and lesbian walking tour ($20) about the contributions of gays and lesbians to the history of Miami Beach, and a Jewish Miami Beach tour ($20) about the area’s changing Jewish population over the last century. Rainy day? South Beach is home to the Bass Museum of Art ($8) where visitors will find more than 500 years of paintings and sculpture by Rubens, Botticelli and Ghirlandaio. Also in the area is the Wolfsonian-Florida International University Museum ($7), which houses objects from the Industrial Revolution to the end of World War II, as well as the Jewish Museum of Florida-Florida International University, itself a piece of history consisting of a restored Art Deco building and a 1929 synagogue. Art lovers who have time to venture beyond South Beach will also want to explore the dozens of galleries, bars and antiques stores in Miami’s Wynwood Arts District; it’s a short cab ride away.

迈阿密面积可观的装饰艺术区有大量的历史建筑,从1920到1940年代都有,很多都是当时最流行的建筑风格。请想像水彩画一般的色彩和令人想起轮船的形状。装饰艺术游客中心(Art Deco Welcome Center)每天上午10:30都有时长90分钟的步行团队游。(每周四下午6:30会另加一个旅行团)途中会观赏多家酒店、餐馆和几座商业建筑(20美元)。如果你想自己浏览,可以租赁语音导游机(15美元)。游客中心也提供该地区其他主题的旅行团,比如同志步行之旅(20美元)展示了男女同性恋对迈阿密海滩的历史贡献,犹太迈阿密海滩之旅(20美元)则讲解了上世纪犹太人口的变化。雨天无聊?在南海滩的巴斯美术馆(Bass Museum of Art;8美元),游客可以欣赏到鲁本斯(Rubens)、波提切利(Botticelli)和基尔兰达约(Ghirlandaio)的500多幅作品。沃尔夫索妮娅-佛罗里达国际大学博物馆(Wolfsonian-Florida International University Museum;7美元)也在这个地区,里面有从工业革命到“二战”末期的多种展品。此外,佛罗里达国际大学佛州犹太博物馆(Jewish Museum of Florida-Florida International University)本身就是历史的一部分,博物馆包括多做装饰艺术建筑,还有座1929年的犹太教堂。喜欢艺术并有时间探访南海滩以外迈阿密地区的人,可以到维伍德艺术区(Wynwood Arts District)欣赏那里几十家艺术馆、就把和古玩店。坐出租车很快就能到达。

6 p.m.

下午6点

7. Panoramic Vistas

7. 全景风光

Venture away from kitschy Ocean Drive for a different view of the city from the penthouse of Juvia, a 10,000-square-foot indoor-outdoor restaurant and bar. The restaurant serves Japanese, French and Peruvian food as varied as salmon nashi and roasted chicken vadouvan, but the view is the real showstopper. Juvia won a 2013 James Beard Foundation award for outstanding restaurant design (over 75 seats), and from its roof, the moon over Miami can seem almost close enough to touch.

离开海洋大道矫柔刻意的艺术作品,到Juvia餐吧的阁楼上欣赏城市的别样风光。Juvia是一家面积达10万平方英尺的餐吧,供应日本、法国和伊朗风格的美食,菜品包括三文鱼卷、香料烤鸡等,但这里真正的卖点是无敌风光。2013年,Juvia因其美妙的餐馆设计(座位超过75个)获得了詹姆斯比尔德基金会(James Beard Foundation)的大奖。从它的屋顶,可以看到迈阿密的月亮近得似乎触手可及。

7:30 p.m.

下午7:30

8. A Little Night Music

8. 晚间音乐

South Beach has many soundtracks, but few musical institutions here are as beloved as the New World Symphony, an orchestral academy founded by the conductor Michael Tilson Thomas. You won’t find it hard to locate the symphony’s home, New World Center, which was designed by Frank Gehry. Some concerts are even free to the public and shown via “live Wallcast” on a 7,000-square-foot projection wall adjacent to the center. For other sorts of music and theatrical productions, there’s also the Art Deco-style Colony Theater.

南海滩的音乐挺多,但很少有音乐机构能像新世界交响乐学院(New World Symphony)一样备受钟爱,学院的创建者是指挥家迈克尔·提尔森·托马斯(Michael Tilson Thomas)。学院所在的建筑新世界中心(New World Center)非常好找,建筑的设计师是弗兰克·盖里(Frank Gehry)。中心隔壁有面7000平方英尺的投影墙,一个叫“墙上现场(live Wallcast)”的项目经常将免费的音乐会投在墙上供公众免费欣赏。其他类型的音乐和戏剧产品,可以到装饰艺术风格的殖民地剧场(Colony Theater)。

SUNDAY

星期日

10 a.m.

上午10点

9. Oceanfront Workout

9. 海滨健身

Ditch the gym. There are few places in South Beach better designed for an outdoor workout than the path several miles long that stretches alongside the ocean (look for signs that say 17th Street Beachwalk) where runners and people on a variety of wheels — Rollerblades, bicycles, Segways — swish by (seriously, be careful). Should you wish to join them, you’ll have no problem spotting beachside rental companies. For a quieter, more leisurely workout, take a walk through the Miami Beach Botanical Garden, near the convention center, which is stocked with tropical and subtropical plants. Admission is free.

抛弃健身房。在南海滩,很少有什么地方比海滨绵延几英里的步道更适合户外健身了(请留意“17街海滨步道”的指示牌)。在那里,跑步爱好者和驾驭各种轮子(双排轮滑、自行车、赛格威电动车)的人潇洒地飞速滑过(真的很快,要小心哦)。如果你想加入他们,就直奔海边众多的器材租赁公司。如果你喜欢安静一些、运动量不大的健身方式,到会议中心附近的迈阿密海滩植物园(Miami Beach Botanical Garden)散步吧。植物园里有大量热带和亚热带植物。无需门票。

2:30 p.m.

下午2:30

10. A Taste of Spain

10. 西班牙美食

Don’t leave South Beach without wandering over to Española Way, a stretch of shops and restaurants with Spanish-colonial architecture as reinterpreted in 1925 (also delightful at night). Swing by for a casual meal, a savory snack (margaritas and chips at Oh! Mexico hit the spot) or some ice cream. Inspired by Mediterranean villages in Spain and France and once a destination for gamblers like Al Capone, the area is a cleaner, sleepier, more international version of New York’s Little Italy — minus the karaoke and cannoli.

在离开南海滩之前,一定要到Española Way逛一逛。Española Way是一条挤满商店餐馆的街道,房子大都是1925年前后的西班牙殖民风格建筑(晚上也非常漂亮)。到那里随便吃一顿美味的简餐(“噢!墨西哥[Oh! Mexico]”饭店的玛格丽塔和薯条特别赞)或冰淇淋。欣赏过西班牙式和法式的地中海村庄并走过Al Capone等赌场以后,这个区域就变成另一个纽约的“小意大利”,只是更加洁净、更加慵懒也更加国际化——除了里面的卡拉OK和奶油煎饼卷。

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