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36小时玩转纽约曼哈顿上城

更新时间:2014/3/22 14:23:56 来源:纽约时报中文网 作者:佚名

36 Hours in Upper Manhattan
36小时玩转纽约曼哈顿上城

In the 18th century, the northern half of Manhattan Island served as a bucolic escape for New Yorkers with the cash to afford it and the horse and carriage to get them there. It’s easier to visit these days (the A train to Harlem being the most famous of many routes) and easier to get around, with the city’s newfangled green cabs in abundance in neighborhoods where yellow cabs have always been scarce. There’s also a whole lot more to do these days. Harlem, the Dutch settlement that became the black capital of America, is in the throes of gentrification: a mix of old and new, from gospel-filled black church services to fine cocktail bars abuzz with young professionals of all races. Meanwhile, farther north, between the island’s oldest surviving house and its largest swath of never developed land, is a Latino neighborhood the likes of which you can no longer find south of Central Park.

在18世纪,曼哈顿岛的北半边是纽约人的乡野休闲之地,当然你要雇得起马匹和马车才能去那儿。如今去那里要容易得多(前往哈莱姆区的A线是诸多路线中最著名的一条),在那里四处逛逛也更容易了,一直严重缺乏黄色出租车的街区现在到处都能看到纽约最新款的绿色出租车。如今可做的事情也多了很多。由荷兰移民聚居地演变为美国黑人之都的哈莱姆区正经历着下层住宅高档化的剧痛:新旧建筑混杂在一起——从回荡着福音音乐的黑人教堂到活跃着各种族年轻职业人士的精致鸡尾酒吧。与此同时,再往北,在该岛现存最古老的房子和最大的从未被开发的狭长土地之间,有个拉美移民聚居区,你在中央公园以南再也找不到这样的社区了。

FRIDAY

周五

1. In (the) Wood | 4 p.m.

1. 下午4点:在树林中

Take the A train — but not to Harlem. Instead, head to the end of the line, the 207th Street station in the Inwood neighborhood. A few blocks west is a Manhattan you won’t recognize, although the Lenape people who once inhabited the island surely would. Inwood Hill Park is a vast expanse of Manhattan, most of which has never been built upon — 196 acres of ridges, caves and forest that occasionally break for vistas of the Hudson River and Spuyten Duyvil Creek. It’s also got Shorakkopoch Rock, where Peter Minuit’s purchase of Manhattan Island from the Lenape tribe supposedly took place. The paths are a loopy (and unmarked) tangle, so print out a PDF map from nycgovparks.org or you’ll be scavenging berries for dinner.

乘坐A线火车,但不是去哈莱姆区,而是去这条线的终点——因伍德区的第207街火车站。往西走几个街区,你肯定认不出来这是曼哈顿,不过曾住在这个岛上的莱纳佩人肯定能认出来。因伍德山丘公园是曼哈顿的一个开阔区域,大半尚未被开发——196英亩的山脊、洞穴和森林,偶尔还能看到哈德逊河和斯普依登·度依韦尔溪。这里还有肖拉克波克岩(Shorakkopoch Rock),据说彼得·米纽伊特(Peter Minuit)就是在这里从莱纳佩部落买下曼哈顿岛的。这里的小路很杂乱(而且没有标识),所以请从nycgovparks.org上打印一个PDF地图,否则你就只能找些浆果当晚餐了。

2. Chile Infusion | 7 p.m.

2. 晚上7点:辣鸡尾酒

You don’t come to northern Manhattan for the Mexican food, even if La Condesa, a cozy, surprisingly upscale spot, can produce a heck of an enchilada. Instead, make a pre-dinner stop for the sophisticated margaritas (from $8.50), with several variations using house infusions, such as chipotle-infused mezcal with pineapple.

你来曼哈顿北部可不是为了享用墨西哥食物,即使舒适而高档的La Condesa餐馆能做出很棒的玉米卷饼。餐前来这里小坐,是为了品尝精致的玛格丽特鸡尾酒(8.5美元起),这里有好几种自制配方,比如凤梨干红辣椒龙舌兰鸡尾酒。

3. Family Dinner | 8 p.m.

3. 晚上8点:家常晚餐

Washington Heights has been a predominantly Dominican neighborhood since the 1980s, which explains why Margarita Santana started finding a market for her home-style Dominican cooking in 1984. A few years later she opened Margot, a bright little restaurant with an outsized reputation among Dominican-Americans. Smiles fill in for the limited English of the staff, as your red-and-white checked table covering disappears under plates of Dominican steak with onions ($13) and stewed goat ($12) with sides of rice and soupy red beans, and fried plantains and anise-flavored yuca arepas. Ask for a beer and they’ll send you to the cramped, old-school bodega one block south; just step around the men engaged in boisterous conversation and pluck some Presidente beers ($1.75) from the fridge.

从20世纪80年代起,华盛顿高地主要被多米尼加移民占据,所以从1984年起,玛格丽塔·桑塔纳(Margarita Santana)开始为自己的家常风味多明尼加美食寻找市场。几年后,她开了一个明亮的小餐馆,名叫Margot,在多米尼加裔美国人中享有盛誉。微笑弥补了服务员有限的英语,红白格子桌布上很快摆满了多明尼加洋葱牛排(13美元)和炖羊肉(12美元),配菜是米饭和红豆糊、煎大蕉和茴香味木薯玉米饼。点一瓶啤酒,他们会把你领到往南一个街区的狭窄的老式酒窖。你绕过那些在热烈交谈的男人们,从冰箱里拿几瓶总统(Presidente)牌啤酒(1.75美元)。

4. Uptown Night Life | 10 p.m.

4. 晚上10点:闹市区外的夜生活

Washington Heights and Inwood have long been dotted with Latino nightclubs, but old-time merengue palaces have given way (in part) to the more modern loungey options. Apt. 78 is just such a place: a comparatively tiny but popular night spot whose name is a tribute to the defunct meatpacking district club Apt, and looks vaguely like the interior of a New York apartment. A very, very crowded apartment: The place packs in a youngish uptown crowd that likes reggae and hip-hop at least as much as Latin rhythms. Once April comes, though, the place to be is La Marina, all the way west on the banks of the Hudson. Whether the party is inside or out, everyone gets a view of the George Washington Bridge.

华盛顿高地和因伍德区一直点缀着很多拉美俱乐部,但是从前的梅伦格舞厅已经(部分)让位给更现代的酒吧。78号公寓(Apt. 78)就是这样一个地方:它是个比较小的夜店,但是很受欢迎,它的名字是为了纪念肉类加工区的一个已经不存在了的俱乐部——公寓(Apt)。它看起来有点像纽约一个公寓的室内。这是个极其拥挤的公寓,挤满了城外的年轻人,他们喜欢拉丁旋律,也同样喜欢瑞格舞和街舞。不过到了4月份,最热门的夜店是码头(La Marina)。它位于从这里一直向西的哈德逊河畔——不管派对在室内还是室外,每个人都能看到华盛顿大桥。

SATURDAY

周六

5. The Harlem Two-Step | 10 a.m.

5. 上午10点:哈莱姆区两步走

Serengeti Teas and Spices is the first stateside retail store for Liberian-born Caranda Martin’s tea company, and behind its carved mahogany and marble bar Mr. Martin and his staff might suggest their smoky Masai Lion’s Head black tea ($4) blend. They’re just as serious about their coffee, which they roast every other day. Forgo their pastry by sneaking in some warm, buttery, flaky rugelach ($1 each, hope for apricot) from tiny Lee Lee’s Baked Goods a few blocks away, where Alvin Lee Smalls has been making his “rugelach by a brother” since 2001.

塞伦盖蒂茶叶香料店(Serengeti Teas and Spices)是利比里亚出生的卡兰达·马丁(Caranda Martin)的茶叶公司在美国本土开设的第一家零售店。马丁和员工们站在雕花红木和大理石柜台后面,他们可能会给你推荐烟熏马塞狮头红茶(4美元)混合茶叶。他们对咖啡也同样认真,每隔一天烘焙一次。不要吃这里的糕点,走几个街区,到小小的李李烘焙店(Lee Lee’s Baked Goods)吃点温暖的、黄油状的、薄脆的水果馅饼(每个1美元,最好是杏肉的)。阿尔文·李·斯莫尔斯(Alvin Lee Smalls)从2001年开始用“一个兄弟的配方”做水果馅饼。

6. Walk It Off | 11 a.m.

6. 上午11点:走起来

Get a flavor of the new and the old, the African and the African-American, on this 1.5-mile loop around Harlem: Start down Frederick Douglass Boulevard — known as restaurant row but also home to stylish but friendly shops like the Bébénoir boutique — then east across 116th to see signs of Harlem’s West African immigrant population (check out the Senegalese baskets in the window of Adja Khady Food Distributor). Turn up Lenox Avenue, past cafes and churches, then cut west on 125th Street, Harlem’s main drag — where American Apparel and the like have moved in but street vendors still sell Obama playing cards and “Kim Kardashian” scented oil.

绕着哈莱姆区走1.5英里,你能领略到新与旧、非洲人和非裔美国人的不同风格:从弗雷德里克·道格拉斯大道开始——这里的美食街很出名,但是一些时髦而友好的店铺也在这里安家了,比如Bébénoir精品服装店——然后向东穿过第116街,去看看哈莱姆区西非移民的标志(在Adja Khady食品店的橱窗里看看塞内加尔人的篮子)。走上雷诺克斯街,经过咖啡店和教堂,然后向西走到哈莱姆区的主要街道——第125街。American Apparel等品牌已经入驻此地,但是街上的小贩们仍在售卖奥巴马扑克牌和“金·卡戴珊(Kim Kardashian)”香精油。

7. Art-Food Pairings | Noon

7. 正午:艺术加食物

Match your food with your art. In central Harlem, the Studio Museum in Harlem features artists of the African diaspora; from there head for a “gourmet soul” lunch, like the moist, pan-cooked catfish filet folded over a mound of crab meat ($14) at Billie’s Black. Or head east to Spanish Harlem, the spiritual home of New York’s Puerto Rican community, to El Museo del Barrio (showcasing Latino and Latin American artists) before a lunch of mofongo de pernil — fried plantains mashed together with roast pork shoulder — under the art-covered walls of La Fonda Boricua.

把食物和艺术结合起来。哈莱姆工作室博物馆位于哈莱姆区的中心,专门展示离散的非洲犹太艺术家的作品。从这里出发,去品尝一顿“美食家灵魂”午餐,比如在比利黑人(Billie’s Black)餐馆品尝叠在一堆蟹肉上的、湿润的煎鲶鱼片(14美元)。或者向东前往纽约波多黎各社区的精神家园——西裔哈莱姆区,参观巴里奥博物馆(El Museo del Barrio,这里展示的是拉美裔美国艺术家和拉美艺术家的作品),然后在La Fonda Boricua餐馆布满艺术品的墙壁下面用午餐——烤猪肩肉和炸大蕉的混合物。

8. This Old House | 3 p.m.

8. 下午3点:这座老房子

George Washington slept (and planned for battle) here in 1776, Alexander Hamilton dined here in 1790, and the man who shot him in a duel, Aaron Burr, moved in after he married its most colorful resident, Madame Eliza Jumel. Despite the characters who passed through the columned front entrance of the Morris-Jumel Mansion and the marvelous period furniture within, few visitors make it to Manhattan’s oldest surviving residence. Those who do should not miss Jumel Terrace Books, the by-appointment bookstore specializing in local history in the bottom floor of a nearby brownstone. Its main attraction is the owner, Kurt Thometz, who lives upstairs and may know more about uptown than all of his books combined.

1776年乔治·华盛顿(George Washington)在这里睡过觉(制订过战斗计划);1790年亚历山大·汉密尔顿(Alexander Hamilton)在这里用过餐;在一次决斗中把汉密尔顿打死的亚伦·伯尔(Aaron Burr)在娶了这所房子最有趣的住户伊莱扎·朱梅尔夫人(Madame Eliza Jumel)后搬到了这里。尽管这些大人物曾穿过莫里斯-朱梅尔(Morris-Jumel)宅邸带有圆柱的正门入口,里面的家具都是非凡的古董,却没有多少游客来参观曼哈顿的这所现存最古老的住宅。来参观的人一定不能错过朱梅尔街书店,这个需要提前预约的书店专售关于当地历史的书籍,位于附近一座豪宅的底层。它最大的吸引力是豪宅的主人库尔特·托梅茨(Kurt Thometz),他住在楼上,对住宅区的了解比他所有的书加起来都多。

9. Jacket Required | 8 p.m.

9. 晚上8点:需要穿正装

Dizzy Gillespie, Charlie Parker and Thelonious Monk were among the regulars at Minton’s Playhouse in the 1940s, and the spot is often credited as the birthplace of bebop. It closed in the 1970s, but a new Minton’s has just been born in the form of a white-tablecloth club, a project of the former Time Warner C.E.O. Richard Parsons and the Southern cuisine innovator Alexander Smalls. Its jazz ambitions are decidedly retro: The snowy-haired house band, some of whom played at the original Minton’s, is delightfully old-fashioned. But its culinary ambitions are forward-thinking: cremolata crusted grouper with braised young spinach ($36) or sweet potato ricotta dumplings with Tokyo turnips and coconut collard greens ($28), for example.

20世纪40年代,迪兹·吉莱斯皮(Dizzy Gillespie)、查利·帕克(Charlie Parker)和塞隆尼斯·孟克(Thelonious Monk)是明顿(Minton)剧场的常客,此地常被誉为比波普爵士乐的诞生地。该剧场在20世纪70年代关门了,但是一个新的明顿刚刚诞生,不过它是以铺着白桌布的俱乐部的形式出现的,它属于时代华纳公司的前任首席执行官理查德·帕森斯(Richard Parsons)和南方美食改革者亚历山大·斯莫尔斯(Alexander Smalls)。它的爵士乐风格无疑是复古的:这个室内乐队的成员都留着白发,其中一些曾在原来的明顿剧场演出过,他们采用的是赏心悦目的传统风格。但是它的美食是前瞻性的:比如炖嫩菠菜奶油脆皮石斑鱼(36美元)或者东京萝卜红薯乳酪饺子以及椰肉羽衣甘蓝绿叶蔬菜(28美元)。

10. Three Scenes | 11 p.m.

10. 晚上11点:三个场面

Noisy beer garden? Intimate cocktail hideaway? See-and-be-seen scene? The new Harlem has bars for all moods. Bier International has long wooden tables and a beer list that’s heavy on the German but with choices from exotic lands like Corsica, Kenya and the Bronx. 67 Orange Street is a tiny hipsterish joint with very serious bartenders creating $13 cocktails with names like Cleopatra’s Lust and Manhattan After Dark. Or go to the go-to, Marcus Samuelsson’s Red Rooster, not yet three years old and already practically a Harlem landmark, or head for Ginny’s Supper Club speakeasy underneath.

是去嘈杂的啤酒花园?还是私密的鸡尾酒吧?还是可以看人也可以被人看的酒吧?新哈莱姆区有为各种心情设立的酒吧。国际啤酒(Bier International)酒吧里有长木桌子,那里的啤酒以德国的为主,但是也有来自科西嘉岛、肯尼亚和布朗克斯区的具有异国情调的啤酒。橙子街67号(67 Orange Street)是个很小的时髦的低档酒吧,这里的酒保很认真地调制13美元的鸡尾酒,取名为埃及艳后的欲望(Cleopatra’s Lust)和天黑后的曼哈顿(Manhattan After Dark)。或者去那个热门酒吧——马库斯·塞缪尔森(Marcus Samuelsson)的红公鸡(Red Rooster)酒吧开业还不到三年,已经成为哈莱姆区的地标,或者前往地下酒吧金尼的晚餐俱乐部(Ginny’s Supper Club)。

SUNDAY

周日

11. Sunday Best | 9:30 a.m.

11. 上午9点半:礼拜服

Visiting a Baptist service, with ministers preaching, gospel choirs grooving and animated congregations matching them step for step has become a staple of Harlem tourism. Skip the lines by attending the Canaan Baptist Church of Christ with Harlem Heritage Tours; the $39 package includes a neighborhood tour afterward, given by either the energetic Neil Shoemaker, who is a native Harlemite and won’t let you forget it, or Andi Owens, an 85-year-old guide with at least one clever quip for each of those years. Or head to the Convent Avenue Baptist Church and ask if you can sit with the congregation.

参加一个浸礼会仪式——牧师讲道、福音合唱团欢乐地歌唱、愉快的会众们应和着——已经成为游览哈莱姆区的一个重头戏。通过哈莱姆遗产旅行社(Harlem Heritage Tours),你可以不用排队就参加迦南基督浸信教会的活动。39美元的套餐还包括之后在附近街区游览,向导是充满活力的尼尔·休梅克(Neil Shoemaker)或者安迪·欧文斯(Andi Owens)——前者是哈莱姆区本地人,他不会让你忘记这一点;后者85岁了,对自己人生的每一年都至少有一句俏皮话来总结。或者前往女修道院街浸信会教堂,问问是否能和会众坐在一起。

12. Mimosas Unlimited | 1:30 p.m.

12. 下午1点半:不限量的含羞草鸡尾酒

At first glance, you might think that Harlemites pack bright, cheery Lido for Sunday brunch for the $13 bottomless mimosa. But the real highlight is the food. Sure, all the regular hollandaisey, pancakey items are on the menu, but this is also an Italian place, so try the pumpkin ravioli drenched in ginger cream, drizzled with balsamic syrup and sprinkled with sage ($18). Or compromise with an Italian-brunch hybrid: the buttery egg panini with goat cheese, bacon and tomato ($13).

猛一看,你可能以为哈莱姆区的人挤满明亮、愉快的利多(Lido)餐馆,是为了在周日早午餐时喝上13美元一杯的不限量含羞草鸡尾酒。其实真正的亮点是这里的食物。当然,所有常见的荷兰酱式的、煎饼式的食物菜单上都有,但这也是个意大利餐馆,所以你可以尝尝南瓜饺子(18美元),它们浸泡在姜酱里,滴有香料糖浆,撒有鼠尾草。或者把意大利菜和早午餐结合在一起:黄油状的鸡蛋三明治搭配羊奶酪、培根和番茄(13美元)。

13. Stained Glass and Unicorns | 3 p.m.

13. 下午3点:彩色玻璃和独角兽

Fort Tryon Park has commanding views of the Hudson River and the New Jersey Palisades, but is best known for the Cloisters, a branch of the Metropolitan Museum of Art housed in a monastery-like building with three cloister gardens constructed in part from architectural elements from medieval structures transported across the Atlantic. Within are sculpture, stained glass and illuminated manuscripts, and perhaps the Met’s most famous medieval works, the Unicorn Tapestries.

翠亨堡公园(Fort Tryon Park)能俯瞰哈德逊河和新泽西岩壁,但是它最著名的景点还是修道院博物馆(Cloisters),该博物馆是大都会艺术博物馆(Met)的一个分支,坐落在一个修道院式的建筑里,里面有三个修道院花园,所用的材料部分来自大西洋彼岸的中世纪建筑物。博物馆里有雕塑、彩色玻璃和泥金装饰手抄本,以及大都会博物馆最著名的中世纪艺术品——独角兽挂毯。

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