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36小时玩转日本京都

更新时间:2014/5/9 13:26:20 来源:纽约时报中文网 作者:佚名

36 Hours in Kyoto, Japan
36小时玩转日本京都

A full 36 hours, 36 days, or even 36 weeks could be spent exploring the thousands of Buddhist temples, Shinto shrines, Zen gardens, palaces, pagodas, parks and walking paths in Kyoto, the former imperial capital of Japan. So it’s little surprise that the most common complaint about the enchanting city is that there are too many tourists, especially during the spring cherry-blossom season. To avoid crowds, consider seeking out local haunts in far-flung neighborhoods, all within reach thanks to an extensive public transport system. You’ll quickly discover that many of Kyoto’s most rewarding attractions can’t be found in any guidebook. At least not yet.

游览日本昔日的首都——京都,走遍数千座寺院、神社、禅意花园、宫殿、宝塔、公园与步道,36小时怎么够?你需要36天甚至36个星期。人们对这座美妙城市最大的不满就是游客太多,尤其是春天樱花盛开的时节,这一点不出所料。为了避开人潮,你不妨在本地较为偏远的街区寻个住处。京都的公交四通八达,无论从哪个社区出游都很便利。你会很快发现许多颇值一游的风景名胜,而它们并未收录在任何一本旅游指南中,至少目前还没有。

FRIDAY

星期五

1. Golden Oldies | 2 p.m.

1. 黄金怀旧经典 | 下午2点

It’s easy to bounce from temple to temple until they all blur into a muddled mass. To prevent this overdose, be selective and focus on a single memorable spot, like Rengeo-in temple, commonly known as Sanjusangen-do (admission, 600 Japanese yen, about $6 at 100 yen to the dollar). The temple’s main hall, nearly 400 feet long, houses an unforgettable sight: a gigantic statue of Kannon, the Buddhist goddess of mercy, flanked by 1,000 human-size statues. The golden statues, each with 42 arms, carved from Japanese cypress in the 12th and 13th centuries, still look immaculate.

在不同的寺院进进出出,它们在你脑中的印象很快会模糊难辨。为了防止过量旅游引发的副作用,你需要精心筛选目的地,专注于某个值得一游的最佳景点,比如莲华王院,俗称三十三间堂(门票600日元,约合6美元。1美元约合100日元)。该寺院的大殿将近400英尺长,风景令人难忘:一尊巨大的观音(佛教中的慈悲女神)雕像,两侧是1000座真人大小的雕像。每一尊金灿灿的雕像都有42支手臂,是12至13世纪用日本柏木雕刻而成,至今看上去仍完美无瑕。

2. Kyoto via Copenhagen | 4 p.m.

2. 哥本哈根与京都的融合 | 下午4点

Adapting ancient crafts to contemporary tastes is a skill some local artisans have perfected through a venture called Japan Handmade. The project is a collaboration between the Danish design studio OeO and six small Kyoto-area companies, each rooted in a traditional craft, from woodworking to metal-knitting. One of the participants, Hosoo, founded in 1688, produces luxurious fabrics traditionally used to make kimonos. Today the patterned silks also adorn upholstered armchairs and high-top sneakers (a collaboration with the fashion designer Mihara Yasuhiro). Find these modern creations and Japan Handmade’s range of covetable items — glazed porcelain trays, cypress-wood Champagne buckets — at the new House of Hosoo showroom in Nishijin, the city’s historic textile district. Because visits are by appointment only, exploring the tatami mat rooms feels like touring a private museum.

让古代工艺适应当代品味,一些本地工匠通过日本手作(Japan Handmade)项目,将这项绝技磨练得越发纯熟了。日本手作是丹麦OeO设计工作室和京都六家株式会社的合作项目,它们各自专注于一项传统工艺,比如木工或金属编织。其中,细尾株式会社(Hosoo)始建于1688年,专注于制造精美的和服专用织物。而今这些花纹细密的丝绸也可用于家居装饰和高端运动鞋(与时尚品牌三原康裕合作)。到京都历史悠久的传统纺织基地西阵织,走进新近开张的“细尾家”陈列馆,你会发现无数现代创意与日本工艺完美融合的艺术品——釉面瓷碟、柏木香槟桶……必须预约才能入内,当你穿行于一个个铺有榻榻米的房间,感觉仿佛在游览私家博物馆。

3. Chicken Dinner | 6:30 p.m.

3. 鸡肉美餐 | 傍晚6:30

Most locals don’t blow their yen on outrageously priced kaiseki dinners, and neither should you. Instead, secure a seat at Hitomi, a casual yakitori restaurant that is beloved for its warm service and delicious grilled things-on-sticks. Bar seats afford front-row views of the smoking grill, where every part of the chicken, beak to tail, is cooked with care. Don’t miss the tsukune (ground chicken “meatball”), crisp kawa (skin) and succulent momo (chicken thigh) seasoned with nothing but a pinch of salt. Dinner for two, about 5,000 yen.

大部分本地人不会把钱挥霍在奢侈的怀石料理上,你也不必。你可以到轻松休闲的日式鸡肉烧烤店“瞳”找个座位,它贴心的服务与美味的烤肉深受欢迎。店内前排的座位占尽优势,可清清楚楚地看到烟气弥漫的烤肉架,鸡身上从喙到尾巴的每一个部位小心翼翼地在火上炙烤。不要错过鸡肉丸、酥脆的鸡皮和丰美多汁的鸡腿,除了盐什么调料都没加哦。双人餐大约5000日元。

4. Rebirth of the Cool | 9 p.m.

4. 酷炫重生 | 晚上9点

After dinner, soak up the smooth sounds and surroundings at Yamatoya, a longstanding jazz bar that reopened in 2013 after a yearlong renovation. No detail here is overlooked, from the classy décor — antique tables, glossy red bar — to the hand-cut ice. Then there’s the music. Hearing a Django Reinhardt record played on the superb audio system — Garrard 401 turntable, vintage Vitavox Klipschorn speakers — is like seeing new colors for the first time. And if the rich, room-filling sound doesn’t bowl you over, the owner’s collection of over 5,000 records surely will.

晚餐之后,在“大和屋”酒吧柔和的音乐与景物中沉醉吧。这家经营多年的爵士酒吧在长达一年的翻修之后,2013年重新开业。从高雅的装饰(古典的餐桌、闪亮的红色吧台)到手工切割的冰块,这里的每一处细节都不容忽视。还有音乐。顶级音响系统(加拉德401唱片转盘、经典Vitavox Klipschorn喇叭)播放着三指琴魔姜戈·莱因哈特(Django Reinhardt)的吉他曲,让初次造访的顾客眼前一亮。如果这回味无穷的美妙音乐都没能镇住你,那么当你听到店主收藏了5000多张唱片,一定会惊讶。

5. Discreet Drinks | 11 p.m.

5. 小心斟酌 | 晚上11点

Spend the rest of the night hopping to increasingly discreet bars. Start at Cafe Gaea, a laid-back neighborhood hangout where you can while away an hour chatting with the affable manager, Rei. Then slip down the narrow path leading to the sliding door of Bar Bunkyu. The smiling bartender Nao befriends all who enter the austere space, where a few stools surround a large slab of textured wood that doubles as both bar and communal table. Close out the night at the nameless bar usually referred to as Kazu’s, after its owner. You’ll know you’ve arrived when you open an unmarked door on the third floor of a dingy back-alley building and step into darkness — only a few flickering candles illuminate the bottle-lined bar. A hypnotic soundtrack, underground atmosphere and 5 a.m. closing time make this an ideal last stop for those who can find it.

剩下的夜晚,不断地从一个私密酒吧转到另一个更为私密的酒吧。从盖亚咖啡馆开始吧,你可以在这个慵懒的地方消磨一个小时与温和的经理凌(音译)聊天。然后溜出门,沿着一条狭窄的小巷走到文久吧的推拉门前。踏进这家朴素酒吧的任何顾客都会受到笑容满面的侍应生奈央(音译)友善的优待。室内的几张凳子围着一张有天然花纹的巨大木板桌,它扮演着吧台与公用餐桌的双重角色。夜晚的最后一个去处?不妨选择无名的和家酒吧(因为店主名叫“和”)。走进陋巷,来到一座昏暗小楼的三层,推开一道没有特殊标记的房门,就走进了这间酒吧。摆满酒瓶的吧台上只有几支微光摇曳的蜡烛。催人入梦的音乐,幽暗的空气,加上凌晨五点才关门,所以只要找到它,你就会发现作为夜晚的最后一站,此处非常理想。

SATURDAY

星期六

6. Cafe Culture | 10 a.m.

6. 咖啡文化 | 上午10点

Temporarily transport yourself to an earlier era with a morning coffee at Rokuyousha, an old-school cafe with wood-paneled walls, vinyl seats, olive-hued tile and ceramic ashtrays atop every table. It’s easy to walk right past this relaxed bi-level coffee shop, but the many residents who stop in to read the newspaper, have a smoke and snack on homemade cake doughnuts know you shouldn’t.

在六曜社珈琲店喝杯咖啡,你可暂时回到过去的时光。木板墙壁、塑料座椅、橄榄色的瓦片,每张桌上都摆着陶瓷烟灰缸。虽然这家气氛慵懒的两层咖啡馆并不起眼,但许多本地人都会踱进来读报纸、抽烟、吃几块家常烘焙的蛋糕式甜甜圈,因为他们深知,这个地方不容错过。

7. Funny Faces | 11:30 a.m.

7. 滑稽的脸庞 | 上午11:30

Though many tour the temples that dot the Arashiyama district on the western edge of the city, few find their way to a fascinating site in the nearby foothills. At Otagi Nenbutsu-ji, a humble Buddhist temple with roots dating back to the eighth century, the hillsides are lined with over 1,000 moss-covered rakan statues (representing disciples of Buddha) whose origins are considerably more modern. In the 1980s and ‘90s, hundreds of people learned to stone-carve and donated the figures to support the temple’s reconstruction. The result was this wide-ranging collection of statues bearing entertaining expressions, from a tennis-racquet-wielding figure to a pair of jolly drinking buddies. Find and imitate your favorites. Admission, 300 yen.

尽管很多人曾经去京都城市西部边缘岚山地带星罗棋布的寺院内游览,但附近山麓有个迷人的地方却很少被人发现。简陋的爱宕念仏寺历史可追溯至公元8世纪,而山坡上1000多尊长满青苔的罗汉(佛教门徒)像,年代却毫不久远。在20世纪八九十年代,为了支援寺院的重建,数百个初学石雕的爱好者将自己的人像作品捐了出来。结果这组雕像形态各异,妙趣横生,有挥舞网球拍的运动健儿,也有欢笑对饮的好兄弟。去找找自己最爱的雕像并模仿他们的动作吧。门票300日元。

8. Tofu and Bamboo | 1:30 p.m.

8. 豆腐与竹林 | 下午1:30

Meditate on the subtlety of flavors during a meal at Syouraian, a restaurant in Arashiyama that showcases tofu, a Kyoto specialty, in various forms. Deep in the woods with views over the Oi River, the tranquil tatami mat dining room is a harmonious backdrop for the beautifully presented dishes, from a silken tofu appetizer adorned with a single dot of bean paste to fried agedashi tofu in broth topped with quivering shavings of dried bonito (4,600 yen for eight courses). After lunch, stroll through the nearby bamboo forest, where a path courses beneath the swaying stalks.

去松籁庵餐厅,在丰富微妙的美味中沉醉吧。它位于岚山,特色菜是京都特产的各式豆腐。餐厅位于密林深处,俯瞰大堰川的风景。宁静的室内铺着榻榻米,与品相优美的菜肴相得益彰,柔滑的豆腐开胃菜上配一点豆酱,肉汤中的炸豆腐顶上铺着一层颤巍巍的干鲣鱼末(八道菜,共4600日元)。午餐之后,走进左近的竹林,沿着曲折的小径在摇曳的竹影中漫步。

9. Design Shops | 4:30 p.m.

9. 工艺品店 | 下午4:30

At Kyoto Design House, a refined shop occupying the ground floor of a spacious Tadao Ando-designed building, browse antique hair combs perhaps worn by long-gone geisha, black lacquered iPhone cases adorned with gold foil, and business-card holders made from Nishijin fabrics. More contemporary artisan crafts are for sale at Kohchosai Kosuga, a nearby shop filled with bamboo designs that will ignite a desire to outfit your entire kitchen with everything from elegantly simple serving plates and rice scoops to beautiful woven baskets and trays.

精美的京都设计馆位于建筑大师安藤忠雄设计的一座大楼的一层,在这里,你可以见到早已过世的艺妓用过的古董梳、金箔装饰的黑漆iPhone壳及用西阵织布料精制的名片夹。钟意当代工艺品的,可去附近的公长斋小菅,店内的竹艺品会让你恨不得将整个厨房装饰一新。从优雅简洁的上菜盘、饭勺到漂亮的竹篮与竹编托盘,应有尽有。

10. Deep-Fried Dinner | 8 p.m.

10. 油炸美食 | 晚上8点

Kushiage, the cooking style of deep-frying food on skewers, is an art form at Kushi Tanaka, a cozy restaurant on a dead-end lane. The chef’s 30-plus years of experience are evident as he plucks skewers out of the fryer and presents them to the dozen or so diners squeezed around the wooden U-shaped counter. A recent 20-piece feast included bites of deep-fried mochi, mackerel, shiitake, kabocha, tender ginkgo nuts and an oozy quail egg wrapped in bacon. The set menu takes the guesswork out of ordering and costs 3,800 yen per person.

炸串是指将油炸过的食物串在签子上,而温馨的田中炸串餐馆(位于一条死胡同内)将炸串升华成了艺术。店内的大厨已有30余年的业内经验,他信心十足地把签子上炸好的美味撸下来,分给围坐在U型木桌边的十来个顾客。最近的二十样套餐包括油炸麻糬、鲭鱼、香菇、南瓜、鲜白果仁和用培根包裹的溏心鹌鹑蛋。套餐让顾客免于点餐与猜测之苦,费用大概人均3800日元。

11. Less-Strange Brew | 11 p.m.

11. 不甚陌生的酒 | 晚上11点

Though craft beer is slowly gaining a foothold in Japan, it’s still a relative rarity in Kyoto. To taste some ji-biru, or domestic microbrews, walk a few blocks west to Bungalow, a 10-tap craft beer bar that opened in 2012. There’s comfortable seating upstairs, but service is better at the streetside standing bar. A wider selection is found at Wachi, a fourth-floor izakaya that recently had Iwate Kura Oyster Stout on tap and a fridge stocked with bottles from Kiuchi Brewery, Baird Brewing Company, and other Japanese craft breweries.

精酿啤酒虽然正缓慢地赢得日本人的欢心,但在京都仍然略嫌陌生。你可以去品尝日本的微酿啤酒——地啤酒。向西走过几个街区,到达平房(Bungalow),这家2012年开业的精酿啤酒屋有十个龙头。楼上的座位很舒适,但楼下临街的立式酒吧里服务更好。四楼的“和知”居酒屋里藏酒更为丰富,最近开始不间断供应岩手库拉牡蛎酒,冰箱里冷藏的酒则包括木内酒造、拜尔德酿酒公司的产品以及其他日本精酿酒。

SUNDAY

星期日

12. Torii Tunnel | 8 a.m.

12. 鸟居隧道 | 上午8点

Get up early for a peaceful trek to the top of Mount Inari on trails that snake through thousands of vermilion torii, the traditional gates that usually mark the entrance to Shinto shrines. Starting from Fushimi Inari Taisha, a shrine at the base of the mountain dedicated to the Shinto kami (spirit) of rice and prosperity, ascend the path passing under torii spaced so closely together that it sometimes feels like walking through a tunnel. To scale the summit and return down the winding wooded trails, allow two to three hours.

早点起床去爬稻荷山,蜿蜒至山顶的清幽小路穿过朱红的千本鸟居(鸟居是日本传统的神社入口)。山脚的伏见稻荷大社敬奉神道教主管稻米与财富的神灵,从这里上山,一路上穿过数千道鸟居排列得如此密集,有时你会恍然觉得自己在隧道中行走。登上山顶再沿着绿树成荫的曲折山路下山,大概要2至3个小时。

13. Suntory Time | Noon

13. 在三得利的时光 | 正午

Head southwest of Kyoto to pay homage to the Suntory Yamazaki Distillery, the birthplace of Japanese whiskey. Free hourlong tours explain the distillation process, from malting to mashing to fermentation, and culminate with a sampling of Yamazaki single-malt whiskey with soda. (Reservations required; English audio guides are provided.) Afterward, browse the bottles that line the shelves of the on-site “whiskey library” and visit the tasting counter, which pours samples of top-notch blends and single malts, as well as limited-edition whiskeys available only at the distillery.

直奔京都的西南部,去日本威士忌的发源地三得利山崎蒸馏所献上一份敬意。大约一小时的免费游览有导游讲解,从麦粒发芽、打浆到发酵,详细介绍造酒工艺,最后,你可品尝一杯和着苏打的单一麦芽威士忌,游览也因此到达最美妙的顶点。(必须预订;有英语导游。)然后去现场的“威士忌珍藏馆”浏览成排酒架上的一只只酒瓶,走向品酒柜台,工作人员会为你斟一杯:有若干顶级美酒的混合佳酿和单一麦芽威士忌,也有该酒厂独家制造的限量版威士忌。

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