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36小时玩转纽约中央公园

更新时间:2014/10/23 11:34:17 来源:纽约时报中文网 作者:佚名

36 Hours: Central Park, New York
36小时玩转纽约中央公园

In 1859, the sanctuary of undulating hills, bridges and lakes taking shape in the heart of Manhattan was described in The New York Times as a “noble work, which is so clearly destined to be the honor and delight of New York.” Neglect and decline in the 1970s threatened to snuff out that utopian vision of Central Park, but today, after years of restoration, it is verdant and flourishing — the rare tourist destination that is also a pleasure ground for locals. Depending on the season and cycle of life, one might be sunbathing or ice skating, sailing a toy boat or rowing a real one, listening to Shakespeare, rock music or the call of one of 230 species of birds.

曼哈顿中心区连绵起伏的小山、桥梁和湖泊,渐渐形成了一片世外桃源,它就是中央公园。1859年,纽约时报称它是“典雅之作,显然注定成为纽约的荣耀与欢愉”。20世纪70年代,这片乌托邦似的景观遭遇了一段时间的忽视与低迷,而现在,经历多年修缮之后,它又变得郁郁葱葱,水草丰美,不仅成了热门的旅行目的地,也是本地人乐于游览的好地方。根据季节与生物的生命周期不同,你可以在公园内晒太阳,也可以溜冰、驾驶着玩具帆船或真船航行,聆听莎士比亚戏剧、摇滚乐或者公园中230多种鸟儿的歌唱。

A view of the park from One57, looking north.
从面朝北方的One57大楼顶上俯瞰公园。

Designed by Frederick Law Olmsted and Calvert Vaux, Central Park’s more than 840 acres are dappled with sculptures, monuments and fountains that tell of the nation’s explorers, artists and heroes, both real and imaginary: Columbus, Beethoven, Duke Ellington, John Lennon, Alice in Wonderland. The park is also home to tennis and handball courts, croquet greens, a carousel, a castle, a marionette theater, a zoo and more than a dozen playgrounds. It is crisscrossed by horse-drawn carriages and ringed by astronomically priced apartments, luxury hotels and world-class museums. Yet despite its being a kind of three-ring circus, there are quiet trails and hidden nooks, museums and bars within and around the park where one can find a more tranquil, timeless Manhattan.

中央公园由设计师弗里德里希·劳·奥姆斯泰德(Frederick Law Olmsted)和卡尔沃特·沃克斯(Calvert Vaux)设计,占地840多英亩,园内星罗棋布的雕像、纪念碑和喷泉讲述着现实与幻想中诸多探险家、艺术家与英雄的故事:哥伦布(Columbus)、贝多芬(Beethoven)、艾灵顿公爵(Duke Ellington)、约翰·列侬(John Lennon)以及漫游仙境的爱丽丝。公园里还有网球场、手球场、槌球场、旋转木马、一座城堡、一座木偶剧场、一座动物园和十几个游乐场。到处都是马车、天价公寓、豪华酒店和世界一流的博物馆。可是,尽管这里像马戏团一样五花八门,热闹非凡,但也有幽径、隐秘的角落、博物馆和酒吧,在公园内外,你可以找到一个寂静而永恒的曼哈顿。

FRIDAY

周五

1. Boldface Names | 2 p.m.

1. 粗体的名称 | 下午两点

Download the free Central Park app to your smartphone. Its map allows you to pinpoint where you are, but more interesting, the app has audio clips of celebrities like Jerry Seinfeld welcoming you to the Mall and Literary Walk, or Whoopi Goldberg discussing Wollman Rink (where she learned to ice skate). Then, pretend you’re an aristocrat in a Merchant Ivory film and step through one of the iron gates near 105th Street and Fifth Avenue into the formal, six-acre Conservatory Garden (an official quiet zone), which is divided into three garden styles: French, Italian and English (don’t miss the Frances Hodgson Burnett Memorial Fountain with its sculptures of a boy and a girl, created in honor of the author of “The Secret Garden”). In the Italian garden, climb the stairs to the tall wisteria pergola, sit on a shady bench and observe the 12-foot-tall jet fountain below. Now is a good time to press play on the app and listen to Candice Bergen discuss the gardens. Before leaving, look down. At your feet, medallions etched into the ground carry the names of the original 13 states, including New York.

在你的智能手机上下载免费的中央公园应用软件。它带有地图,可以精确定位你所在的位置,但更有趣的是该应用里有许多名人的音频片段,比如杰瑞·宋飞(Jerry Seinfeld)欢迎你来到购物中心与文学大道,伍比·戈德堡(Whoopi Goldberg)介绍沃尔曼溜冰场,她就是在那里学会溜冰的。然后,假装自己是莫谦特和艾弗里(Merchant Ivory)电影作品中的贵族,款款走过第105大街和第五大道附近的一座铁门,就正式踏进了方圆六英亩的保护区花园(一片真正宁静的地方),分为三种园林风格,分别是法兰西、意大利和英伦风。不要错过了弗朗西丝·哈德逊·伯奈特(Frances Hodgson Burnett,英语世界著名的儿童文学作家——译注)纪念喷泉,它的雕塑是一个男孩和一个女孩,向该作家的名作《秘密花园》(The Secret Garden)致敬。在意大利花园,可以拾级而上,登上一座高高的紫藤绿廊,坐在绿荫下的长椅上,观赏下面能喷射12英尺高水柱的喷泉。现在,打开应用,按下“播放”键,听坎迪斯·伯根(Candice Bergen)介绍这座园林,真是太合适了。离开之前,低头望一眼,会发现你脚下的地面上镶嵌着许多大大的圆形图案,上面刻着美国最初十三个州的名称,包括纽约州。

2. Museum Mile | 3:30 p.m.

2. 一英里博物馆 | 下午3:30

Exit the gardens onto Fifth Avenue through the soaring wrought-iron Vanderbilt Gate, made in Paris in 1894 and once part of Cornelius Vanderbilt II’s mansion at 58th Street. Walk south. You’re on the aptly named Museum Mile. Already been to heavyweights like the Guggenheim? Stop by less-trafficked spots like the Museum of the City of New York, where you’ll find vestiges of the city’s younger days, including handwritten manuscripts by Eugene O’Neill. And Neue Galerie celebrates 20th-century German and Austrian art and design with works by Gustav Klimt, Josef Hoffmann, Vasily Kandinsky and Paul Klee. Then enjoy a lobster roll ($18) at the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s self-service roof garden cafe and martini bar (open May through late fall) as the sun sets.

走出花园,踏上第五大道,穿过高耸的铸铁制造的范德比尔特大门。这座大门于1894年在巴黎制造,曾经是第58大道上康内留斯·范德比尔特二世(Cornelius Vanderbilt II)城堡的一部分。向南行进,你就到了名副其实的一英里博物馆(Museum Mile)。古根海姆博物馆这样的重量级博物馆你已经去过了?那就在访客较少的地方停下脚步吧,比如纽约市立博物馆,你会见到这座城市年轻时代的许多遗迹,包括剧作家尤金·奥尼尔(Eugene O’Neill)的手稿。新画廊(Neue Galerie)在举办20世纪德国与奥地利艺术设计庆典,展出着古斯塔夫·克里姆特(Gustav Klimt)、约瑟夫·霍夫曼(Josef Hoffmann)、瓦西里·康定斯基(Vasily Kandinsky)和保罗·克利(Paul Klee)等艺术家的杰作。这时天色已晚,你可以到大都会艺术博物馆的屋顶花园自助餐厅及马提尼酒吧(营业季从5月到晚秋时节)品尝一客龙虾卷(18美元)。

3. A Southern Crawl | 7:30 p.m.

3. 徐徐向南 | 晚上7:30

Begin at the Plaza. Skip the buzzy Champagne Bar in the lobby and climb the stairs to the more-intimate Rose Club, where plush chairs are ideal for tête-à-têtes. A Bloody Mary costs $23, but, hey, you can almost make a meal of free nuts and popcorn. (The Plaza Food Hall is a great place to pick up pastries and other treats to eat in the park.) Then walk west along Central Park South, peeking into the windows of bars to see what pulls you in, from Whiskey Park to the bar at South Gate restaurant in the J W Marriott Essex House. When you reach the Museum of Arts and Design, go to the ninth floor, where you’ll find Robert, a restaurant and lounge with live piano music and views of Columbus Circle. Across the street at the Time Warner Center, there are several bars (as well as upscale shops), including the lovely Center Bar, where you’ll also find live piano music, and Landmarc, which serves casual bistro fare. For something fancier, there’s the Stone Rose Lounge.

从广场出发,在大堂里活色生香的香槟酒吧门外走过,登上楼梯,走进更加私密的玫瑰俱乐部(Rose Club),里面摆着豪华舒适的椅子,特别适合私人谈话。一杯血腥玛丽23美元,但是……嗨!其实你可以用坚果和爆米花做一顿免费的美餐(广场餐厅是个了不起的好地方,可以选购面点和其他零食,带到公园里吃)。然后沿着中央公园南部路一路向西,从威士忌公园到埃塞克斯豪斯JW万豪酒店(J W Marriott Essex House)内南门餐厅(South Gate)的酒吧,浏览沿途酒吧的橱窗内有没有什么东西能吸引你。来到艺术与设计博物馆之后,去九层,会看到罗伯特餐厅与沙龙,里面有现场钢琴音乐会,还可以俯瞰哥伦布转盘广场(Columbus Circle)的风光。时代华纳中心的街对面有好几家酒吧(及高端店铺)包括可爱的中心酒吧(Center Bar),此地也有现场钢琴演奏,还有地标酒吧(Landmarc),供应家常的小餐厅美食。如果想要华丽点儿的,去石玫瑰沙龙(Stone Rose Lounge)。

SATURDAY

周六

4. Early Birds | 7:30 a.m.

4. 早起的鸟儿 | 早晨7:30

Bird lovers know that daybreak is magical. In the Ramble, a more-than-30-acre maze of boulders and trees, birding is especially rewarding because, according to the Central Park website, it is on the Atlantic Flyway, a migration route that birds follow in the spring and fall. Walking its shady arteries, it’s easy to forget that this section of the park is almost entirely man-made: The running water in the stream can be turned on and off as if it were coming from a kitchen faucet. (For those who get a later start, the Central Park Conservancy offers kits with binoculars, maps, a guidebook and sketching materials that you can borrow at no charge at Belvedere Castle.)

爱鸟人士知道,黎明时分很是神奇。漫步区(Ramble)方圆30多英亩,是一座遍布着岩石与树木的迷宫,在这里观鸟收获格外多,因为中央公园网站上说,该公园恰好位于亚特兰大飞行之路上,而这条路线是大量鸟类每年春秋迁徙时的必经之路。走在绿荫如盖的主干道上,你很容易忘掉公园的这片区域其实基本是人造的,淙淙的溪水可以像厨房水龙头一样随时打开或关闭。对于那些较晚出发的游人,中央公园保护区提供全套装备,包括双筒望远镜、地图、旅行指南和素描材料,都可以在观景城堡(Belvedere Castle)免费借用。

5. Into the Woods | 10 a.m.

5. 深入密林 | 上午10点

On sunny days, Central Park’s vast lawns are littered with people. If you want a little peace — and a hint of the Adirondacks — head to the North Woods. Be cautious, though, as this is a dense, somewhat isolated area. That said, the 90 acres of wildflowers, trees, a ravine and a waterfall will transport you to the country. These woodlands (another bird-watching hot spot) were designed to block out the skyline and drown out the noise of the city with babbling water. And do they ever. Little wonder that the magician David Copperfield has said that this is the place he comes to when he longs to disappear. Look, too, for the nearby Pool, where ducks nestle on the banks beneath weeping willows. Farther north, at the Harlem Meer, you can try catch-and-release fishing.

在艳阳高照的日子里,中央公园内辽阔的草坪上总是游人如织。如果你想要一分宁静,见识阿迪朗达克山脉的风光,就去北林(North Woods)吧。但要小心,这个区域内山高林密,与世隔绝。90英亩的野花、树林、一条溪谷和瀑布将会带你进入乡村。这片林地(也是热门的观鸟地)的设计目标是挡住天际线,用潺潺的水声替代城市的喧嚣噪音。确实起了作用。难怪大魔术师大卫·科波菲尔(David Copperfield)曾说,这就是他隐身不见之后想要藏身的地方。附近的湖边柳丝飘拂,成群的野鸭在岸上休憩。在更北之处的哈林胡(Harlem Meer),你可以试着玩一次捕鱼再放生的游戏。

6. Tasting Menu | 1 p.m.

6. 品尝佳肴 | 下午1点

When you’re in the mood for lunch, walk over to Trump Hotel Central Park and into Nougatine, the elegant yet “casual sister” of Jean-Georges. Here Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s prix fixe lunch menu ($38) changes with the seasons but includes an appetizer, main course like seared salmon with corn pudding and cherry tomato salad or organic chicken with ricotta gnocchi, market carrots and Roma beans, and dessert (the warm chocolate cake with vanilla bean ice cream is a must).

想吃午餐了?去中央公园特朗普酒店(Trump Hotel Central Park)的黑脆糖(Nougatine)餐厅。它是让-乔治餐厅优雅但休闲的姐妹店。在这里,烹饪大师让-乔治·冯热里什唐(Jean-Georges Vongerichten)烹制的午餐(38美元)因季节而不同,但通常包括一道开胃菜、煎三文鱼配玉米布丁之类的主菜、圣女果沙拉或配了意大利乳清奶酪、天然胡萝卜和罗马豆角的有机鸡肉及一道甜点(必须品尝热巧克力蛋糕加香草豆冰激凌)。

7. Star Gazing | 3 p.m.

7. 凝视星空 | 下午3点

Next door to the American Museum of Natural History is a giant orb in a glass box: the Rose Center for Earth and Space. There are few better ways to spend a rainy day than gazing at star clusters and galaxies during a show at the Hayden Planetarium, or watching an Imax nature film at the museum. Speaking of the museum, stop by to marvel at dinosaur fossils and to lie down (go ahead, it’s O.K.) beneath the 94-foot-long, 21,000-pound fiberglass model of a blue whale suspended from the ceiling.

下一道门通向美国自然历史博物馆,那是玻璃箱子里的一个大圆球:地球与太空玫瑰中心。在海登天文台的展览中凝视星群与银河,或者在博物馆里看一场自然主题的IMAX电影,雨天,没有比这更好的度日方式了。说起博物馆,可以去看看恐龙化石。天花板上挂着一头玻璃纤维制成的94英尺长、21000磅重的模型蓝鲸,不妨躺到(大胆尝试吧,没事的)下面。

8. All That Jazz | 7:30 p.m.

8. 到处是爵士乐 | 晚上7:30

In the warmer months you can catch a concert or play in Central Park or at nearby Lincoln Center, but any time of year is right for listening to jazz while eating finger-licking fare like a catfish po’boy ($16) or bourbon-glazed barbecued baby back ribs ($24) at Dizzy’s Club Coca-Cola. Part of Jazz at Lincoln Center, this intimate club has table and bar seating, all facing a vertiginous wall of windows behind the performers — almost close enough to touch — that lets in Central Park and the twinkling city lights.

在温暖的季节,可以去听音乐会,或者在中央公园或附近的林肯中心玩,但一年中任何时候,都可以一边听爵士乐,一边吃令人不停吮指的美餐,比如去迪兹的可口可乐俱乐部(Dizzy’s Club Coca-Cola),品尝鲶鱼穷孩儿三明治(16美元)或者波本酱烤仔排(24美元)。这家私密的俱乐部是林肯中心爵士乐餐厅的一部分,所有餐位和吧台座位都面对着一堵炫目的落地玻璃窗,舞台就在窗前,演员近得几乎触手可及,透过玻璃窗,亦可看到中央公园及城市里璀璨的灯火。

9. Nightcap in the Park | 10 p.m.

9. 在公园里喝杯睡前酒 | 夜里10点

The recently reopened, more rustic (think hunting lodge) Tavern on the Green at 67th Street and Central Park West has an oval indoor bar and fireplace to take the chill out of fall nights. For something more romantic, visit the outdoor bar where, beneath glowing lanterns, you can sip drinks with unromantic names inspired by boroughs, including the Staten Island (Cacao Prieto rum, coconut water, pineapple and lime juice; $14).

第67大街和中央公园西部路上最近开张的绿苑酒廊(Tavern on the Green)更加有乡野韵味(想象一下狩猎小屋吧),有椭圆形的室内酒吧和壁炉,深秋的夜晚可将寒冷一扫而光。若干需要更浪漫点儿,就去户外酒吧,在明亮的灯下啜饮一杯名字不太浪漫的饮料,这些名字都起源于附近的地名,比如斯塔顿岛(可可普列托朗姆酒、椰汁、菠萝和酸橙汁,14美元)。

SUNDAY

周日

10. Waffles and Row Boats | 9:30 a.m.

10. 吃完饼干再划船 | 上午9:30

Yes, it’s rife with tourists. But do visit the Loeb Boathouse, which opened in 1954. How often can one tuck into maple waffles with warm berry compote ($16) and watch rowboats glide by on a lake — in the middle of Manhattan? After brunch, go for a row (boats are $15 an hour; $20 cash deposit required).

没错,1954年开张的楼泊船屋(Loeb Boathouse)内顾客很多,但是一定要去。一边吃着枫糖华夫饼与温暖的浆果蜜饯(16美元),一边观赏湖面上舟楫往来,一个人能有多少次这样的好机会呢,特别是在曼哈顿市中心?早午餐之后,去划船吧(租船15美元一小时;押金20美元)。

11. Walk on the Wild Side | 11:30 a.m.

11. 荒野漫步 | 上午11:30

Tigers, red pandas, and an emerald tree boa are a few of the creatures you may encounter at the Central Park Zoo. There are penguin and sea lion feedings, a children’s zoo with a nature trail, and a 4-D theater. The zoo is tiny compared with the Bronx Zoo, but it is a delightful way to end a weekend in an urban jungle.

在中央公园动物园你会见到许多动物,包括老虎、小熊猫和翡翠树蚺。还有企鹅和海狮投喂处、一座儿童动物园和一座4D影院,儿童动物园内有小路可通向自然景观。虽然这座动物园的规模不及布朗克斯动物园,但却是都市丛林中欢度周末的好去处。

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