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更新时间:2014/11/28 11:58:57 来源:纽约时报中文网 作者:佚名

12 Treasures of Europe

For the Travel section’s Oct. 19 issue on Europe, writers and editors selected special items to profile from a dozen cities. Below, explore everything from chocolate in Brussels to silk in Florence to design in Copenhagen.


Berlin: Street Art


Despite relentless hypergentrification, Berlin remains a bastion of street art. Elaborate murals still decorate firewalls; images by sprayers and stencilers pop up everywhere else. But how can the visiting aficionado take street art home? The answer is easy, if counterintuitive: get off the streets. The number of galleries selling urban art keeps growing: Neurotitan, a sprawling space in a scruffy complex in the central district of Berlin-Mitte, has shown urban art since 1996; newer on the scene is Urban Spree, a high-energy gallery in a postindustrial complex near the Spree River, which also hosts art events. So does Open Walls Gallery in Stattbad Wedding, a defunct swimming pool repurposed as a nightclub and cultural center in the blue-collar district of Wedding.

尽管无情的阶层分化仍在进行,柏林依然是街头艺术的堡垒。壁炉边的墙上挂着精美的壁画,城市里喷笔画和版画比比皆是。但是,热爱艺术的游客怎样才能把街头艺术品带回家呢?答案很简单,只是略有些反直觉——离开街头。出售都市艺术品的画廊越来越多了,比如神经巨人(Neurotitan)画廊,这家宽敞的店铺位于柏林米特中心区一片蓬乱的小区内,从1996年起就开始展览都市艺术品。想看更前卫的景观,就去都市狂欢(Urban Spree)画廊,这个高能量艺术馆位于斯普利河附近一座后工业时代的街区,平时这里也承办艺术盛典。在蓝领聚居的威丁区,斯塔巴德的开放墙壁艺术馆(Open Walls Gallery)也有同样的功能,这座夜总会兼文化中心是由废弃的游泳池改建而成的。

“I wanted to do something that fits the city’s cultures and subcultures,” said the Paris native Guillaume Trotin, who founded Open Walls with Elodie Bellanger, in 2012, after running pop-up art projects in Miami, Paris and other cities. Mr. Trotin now exhibits urban artists like Alias and Vermibus in a sleek indoor space.

“那时我想做些事,来映衬这座城市的文化与亚文化。”生长于巴黎的纪尧姆·特洛丁(Guillaume Trotin)说。2012年,他与艾洛蒂·白朗格(Elodie Bellanger)联袂建起了开放墙壁艺术馆,之前也曾在迈阿密、巴黎和其他城市运营过流行艺术项目。而今,特洛丁先生在美丽的馆内举办都市艺术家作品展,比如《化名与终点》(Alias and Vermibus)主题展。

Treasure hunters can also go straight to the source — the artists themselves. Jim Avignon’s panels on the Berlin Wall’s East Side Gallery are legendary, but he also paints eye-popping graphic works in his Kreuzberg studio, sometimes selling them in person or on his website, jimavignon­.com (an exuberant solo show is on view at Neurotitan until Oct. 25). Packed with cartoonish characters and clever visual commentaries on Berlin’s gentrification, his acrylic-on-paper panels are affordable (starting at about 100 euros).

寻宝人也可以直接追溯艺术的源头——艺术家本人。柏林墙东侧画廊上吉姆·艾维格农(Jim Avignon)的镶嵌装饰画堪称传奇,但他也在自己位于柏林十字山区的工作室内创造那些让人惊艳的绘画作品,有时候亲自出售画作,在网站jimavignon­.com上也可以买到。(10月25日前,神经巨人画廊举办了一场蔚然大观的吉姆·艾格维农个人艺术展)他的丙烯镶嵌画将卡通人物与慧黠的视觉评论融为一体,展现了柏林都市阶层分化的社会风情。这些作品售价100欧元起。

Working in a former metal fixtures factory, the duo who call themselves 44Flavours create geometric wall pieces, murals and sculptures incorporating found materials. “We’re interested in anything that tells stories, so we go outside and collect stuff,” said Julio Rölle, who collaborates with his business partner, Sebastian Bagge, on not only art but also designs for shirts and snowboards.

朱力欧·罗莱(Julio Rölle)与塞巴斯蒂安·贝格(Sebastian Bagge)这对双人搭档自称44道风味,在一座由金属装置厂厂房改建而成的工作室里,创造几何图形墙拼作品、壁画以及用能够找到的一切材料做成的雕塑。“我们对一切有故事的东西都感兴趣,所以出去收集各种材料。”朱力欧说,他与生意伙伴的合作不仅在艺术领域,还涉足了T恤及滑雪板设计。

Arguably the most polished urban art can be found at Circle Culture, which has grown into a multivenue enterprise. The newest, largest space opened on Potsdamer Strasse, Berlin’s main gallery strip, last November. Showing artists like the Brooklyn-based muralist Maya Hayuk or XOOOOX (whose haunting stencil figures still lurk on Berlin streets), the owner Johann Haehling von Lanzenauer sees the lines between artistic subdefinitions blurring. “The term ‘street art’ is done, over,” said Mr. von Lanzenauer, pointing at Stefan Strumbel’s neon-kitsch cuckoo clocks and prints on the gallery’s walls. “I call this contemporary art. Street is just a medium.” KIMBERLY BRADLEY

可以说,最鲜亮的都市艺术品都可以在圆圈文化(Circle Culture)艺术馆看到,这家企业已经成长壮大,开了多家分馆,其中最新最大的一家于去年11月开业,地址在柏林的重要艺术地段波茨坦大街。馆中展出的杰作包括来自布鲁克林的壁画家玛雅·海雅克(Maya Hayuk)和XOOOOK(他的版画在柏林的街道上随处可见)的作品。店主约翰·海灵·冯·兰泽诺尔(Johann Haehling von Lanzenauer)认为各种艺术之间的界限正日益模糊。“‘街头艺术’这个词该消亡了。”冯·兰泽诺尔先生指着画廊墙上斯蒂芬·施特鲁贝尔(Stefan Strumbel)的新刻奇布谷鸟钟表和印刷作品说道。“我把这些东西叫做当代艺术。街头就是博物馆。”金伯利·布拉德利(KIMBERLY BRADLEY)供稿。

Brussels: Chocolate


Nearly half the chocolate consumed in the world is savored in Europe, and Belgium — with per-capita consumption of 14.99 pounds a year —certainly devours its fair share. While Brussels, the country’s capital, is home to hundreds of chocolatiers, what makes a visit imperative, at least from a chocophile’s perspective, is the rich heritage of artisanal chocolate-makers.


And none epitomizes the nation’s devotion to craft and quality more than Mary. Mary Delluc established her business in 1919 on the Rue Royale, the route the king took to the Royal Palace each day. In 1942 she achieved her goal of becoming the chocolate purveyor to the royal family, an honor that was bestowed on the brand three more times, most recently in 2013. While Mary has retained a presence on Rue Royale for 95 years, it has changed address three times, the most recent (Rue Royale 73) undergoing an overhaul in 2010.

说起对比利时巧克力工艺和品质的贡献,谁也无法超过玛丽巧克力店。1919年,玛丽·德鲁克(Mary Delluc)创建了自己的公司,店址在皇室大道,那是国王去王宫时每天的必经之路。1942年,她实现了自己的目标,成为比利时王室的御用巧克力供应商。该品牌享有这一殊荣已有三次,最近的一次是2013年。玛丽巧克力店已在皇室大道巍然屹立了95年,其间搬了三次家,最近的一次是在2010年,经过全面翻新后,搬到了皇室大道73号。

“We went back to the roots of Mary,” the managing director, Olivier Borgerhoff, said, noting the return to the original white-and-gold color scheme and prominence of the oblong logo. As for the chocolate, it might as well be the 20th century. “We don’t change the types of chocolates often,” Mr. Borgerhoff said. “We try to improve the choices we have.” That means sourcing top-quality ingredients and eschewing preservatives and unnatural additives of the dozens of caramel, marzipan, mousse, ganache and cream-filled bonbons that are stacked in neat rows down a long central counter, along with glass bowls of hand-rolled truffles, flaked with almonds and dusted in powdered sugar. A 250-gram box is 17 euros ($21).

“我们回到了玛丽的根,”常务董事奥利维尔·伯格霍夫(Olivier Borgerhoff),他指的是恢复了最初的白色与金色的配色方案及强调椭圆形商标。说起巧克力,或许还是20世纪更好。“我们不会经常改变巧克力的类型。”伯格霍夫先生说。“而是尽力优化已有的选择。”这意味着要寻找顶级的优质配方,在数十种焦糖、杏仁蛋白软糖、慕斯、甘那许酱和奶油夹心软糖中避免使用防腐剂或非天然的添加剂。这些甜点一排排整齐地堆叠在店铺中央一条长柜台上,旁边的玻璃碗里盛放着手工制成的松露巧克力,点缀着杏仁,外面撒着糖粉。250克一盒的售价17欧元(约等于21美元)。

Another chocolatier, Debailleul, is decidedly more whimsical. The small chain, established in 1983 by Marc Debailleul, produces bonbons and ballotins, or boxes, that are so refined and beautiful, it’s almost — almost — a shame to indulge. The options are limited: traditional pralines and creamy ganaches, many hand-painted with cupids, the letter “D” or other flourishes, and vanilla, coffee and caramel-flavored truffles. Visit the factory store (Rue de Ganshoren 27-39). It will be as if you’ve discovered secret treasures of the chocolate capital. AMY M. THOMAS

还有一家名叫德百丽(Debailleul)的手工巧克力厂,显然更加珍奇有趣。这家小型连锁企业由马克·德百丽(Marc Debailleul)始建于1983年,出产夹心软糖、小包装或者盒装。它的甜点口感如此精致美妙,你会觉得肆意大嚼几乎是一种羞耻。选择很有限:传统的胡桃糖和奶油鲜美的甘那许酱,糖果上装饰着手绘的丘比特、字母D或者其他花纹,还有香草、咖啡和焦糖口味的松露巧克力。建议游览工厂店(店址在汉斯霍伦路27-29号),感觉就像在巧克力之都寻找秘藏的珍宝。艾米·托马斯(AMY M. THOMAS)供稿。

Budapest: Paprika


The job of preparing Hungarian paprika was once considered too dangerous for mothers to do. The peppers grown in Szeged — one of the country’s two primary paprika-producing regions — were so spicy that a woman who touched her children upon returning from work risked burning them, so only the elderly and unmarried were allowed the delicate task of separating the membrane from the flesh. But by the early 20th century, sweeter varieties and a machine that extracted the veins turned paprika into an equal opportunity employer and a common feature of all Hungarian cuisine. “Goulash, porkolt, the cold cheese spread called korozott that all Hungarians eat on bread at least once a month,” said the Budapest-based food journalist Dorottya Czuk. “All of our basic dishes have it.”

匈牙利人曾经认为,让妈妈来加工匈牙利红辣椒太危险了。这种辣椒生长在全国两大辣椒产地之一赛格德,它实在太辣了,如果一位母亲加工辣椒时不小心摸了孩子,孩子可能会被灼伤。所以,把一层薄膜从辣椒果肉上剥离,这种工作只能由年长者或未婚人士专职去做。但到了20世纪早期,出现了味道较淡的品种,人们又发明了抽出辣椒脉络的机器,于是加工辣椒就成了人人可做的工种,香辣也成了匈牙利菜肴的共同特点。“炖牛肉、炖猪肉,用柯罗佐冷芝士搭配面包,我们匈牙利人每月至少吃一次。”布达佩斯的美食记者多洛缇娅·查克(Dorottya Czuk)说。“这些基本菜肴中都有红辣椒。”

So omnipresent is paprika that you can get it at any Budapest supermarket, but the chains offer no guarantee of quality or origin. “It might be from Spain or, worse, China,” Ms. Czuk said. “I can tell you that nine Hungarians out of 10 would not want to eat paprika grown in Spain.” Look instead for tins, like those from Molnar or Hodi, that are produced locally.


The Central, or Great, Market Hall is a good place to start. Built at the end of the 19th century its soaring brick, iron and tile exterior alone is worth visiting. But three stories of stalls inside hold their own delights, paprika chief among them. On Fridays and Saturdays, farmers sell their homemade spice in transparent plastic bags. “That’s good,” Ms. Czuk said, “because you can see how red it is. You want a really vibrant color.”


Aroma is also important: Fresh paprika should smell sweet and a little funky, like hay in a stable. And there are different categorizations: kulonleges, or “special quality,” is the mildest and sweetest; eros is the spiciest. But taste is the most important guarantor. Paprika is cheap enough (100 grams of even the highest quality spice cost around $2) that you can buy some, try it and feel that you haven’t wasted much money if you don’t like it.


At Tasting Table it’s possible to forgo that step. The brand-new shop, at Brody Sandor utca 9, in the cellar of a 19th-century palace, features Hungarian wines and local specialty foods. It offers tastings of all its products, including Molnar and Hodi paprikas. “We spread goose fat from the foie gras we serve on bread, and sprinkle the paprika on that, said Gabor Banfalvi, a co-owner. “Because paprika needs fat to come to life.” LISA ABEND

在尝味台(Tasting Table),更是免不了这一步。这家全新的店铺位于布罗迪山铎9号一座19世纪宫殿的地下室里,专营匈牙利酒与本地特产美食。店内所有食品都可以品尝,包括摩尔那和霍迪红辣椒。“我们面包上涂抹的是从鹅肝酱中提取的鹅脂,再撒上辣椒粉。”店主之一嘉宝·山铎(Gabor Banfalvi)说。“因为红辣椒需要脂肪才能更好地展现辣味。”丽莎·阿本德(LISA ABEND)供稿。

Copenhagen: Design


“Friendly, playful and colorful.” That’s how Poul Madsen, a founder of Normann Copenhagen, sums up his company’s kitchenware, decorative objects, furniture and lighting, which have found enthusiastic clients everywhere, from Danish reality TV series to the restaurant of the Museum of Modern Art in New York.

“友好、顽皮,丰富多彩。”诺曼哥本哈根设计公司的创始人之一波尔·曼德森(Poul Madsen)这样评价公司的厨具、饰品、家具和照明产品。该公司已经在全世界建起反响热烈的客户群,包括丹麦的真人秀电视系列节目和纽约的现代艺术博物馆的餐厅。

Anyone strolling through the white neo-industrial showrooms of the brand’s Copenhagen flagship store could hardly disagree. The space pops with radiant hues cast by richly striped Tint Throw Blankets (749 Danish krone or $130 at 5.75 krone to the dollar), purple Kontour Vases (149 krone) shaped like flower petals, Brick Cushions (549 krone) in Mondrian-esque fabric, and many more items developed in partnership with scores of designers of nearly 20 nationalities.


But Normann creations are more than eye candy. Usefulness lurks within the clean lines of even the most pedestrian items like the sculptural Ballo toilet brush (399 krone). A thin stem (the handle) tapers gently into a plump hollow bulb (the base). If jostled, the rounded base wobbles without overturning.


Cognac Glasses (299 krone) are asymmetrical stemless vessels that lean at a slight angle and swivel gently to stir the spirit and release its aroma.


As befits a former movie theater, the store endeavors to engage its audience. The events calendar is filled with fashion shows, art exhibitions and talks. Every night staff members redesign the street-facing display windows.


But perhaps most appealing is the whimsy that suffuses the store. Salt and pepper shakers from the Friends line (249 krone) resemble fat, half-naked, mustachioed cartoon characters. Gazing at a Swell Sofa (21,999 krone), you would swear that the plump, puffy couch had been folded by a balloon-twister. SETH SHERWOOD

但最迷人的或许是店内弥漫的奇趣之风。朋友品牌系列的椒盐瓶(249克朗)像个肥胖半裸的大胡子卡通人物。凝视着绝好沙发(21999克朗),你会发誓那饱满、蓬松的沙发原来是用气球扭转器折叠而成的。赛斯·舍伍德(SETH SHERWOOD)供稿。

Florence: Silk


Down a quiet lane in the San Frediano district of Florence, beyond an iron gate and leafy courtyard, is Antico Setificio Fiorentino, the sole remaining artisan silk workshop in the city. Since moving to this location (Via Lorenzo Bartolini 4) in 1786, the small factory has maintained uninterrupted production, despite wars and floods. The art of silk-making in Florence flourished in the Renaissance, when noble families amassed fortunes and fame by producing exquisite silks. That tradition endures at Antico Setificio Fiorentino, where silks are woven by hand on antique looms using Renaissance patterns.

沿着佛罗伦萨圣弗雷迪亚诺一条寂静的小巷走下去,走过一道铁门和树影婆娑的庭院,就是佛罗伦萨古丝绸铺(Antico Setificio Fiorentino),整个城市硕果仅存的一座手工丝绸工作坊。1786年,这座小厂搬到了目前的店址(洛伦佐巴尔托里尼大街4号),从此一直在无休止地生产丝绸,哪怕战争与洪水也不曾让它停工。佛罗伦萨的丝绸制造工艺在文艺复兴时期鼎盛一时,凭借制造精美的丝绸,若干尊贵的家族积累起了财富和声名。凭借这一传统,该店一直持续至今,古董织布机手工织成的丝绸使用的依然是文艺复兴时期的图案。

During a recent tour, the designer Maurizio Bonas rattled off the illustrious names of historic Florentine clans — Corsini, Pucci, Strozzi — whose signature patterns are still being produced. “When you go inside many historical houses in Italy, it’s Antico Setificio that did them,” said Mr. Bonas, who noted that the factory’s silks also adorn rooms in the Vatican, the Palazzo Vecchio and the Tribuna degli Uffizi in Florence, and even in the Kremlin in Moscow.

在最近的一次游览中,设计师莫里芝奥·博纳斯(Maurizio Bonas)如数家珍地说起佛罗伦萨艺术史上那些响当当的名字——科尔西尼(Corsini)、浦西(Pucci)、斯特罗奇(Strozzi),其中斯特罗奇的签名图案仍然在生产。“当你走进意大利很多历史遗址,你们发现是古丝绸铺塑造了它们的美丽。”博纳斯先生说。他强调,该厂的丝绸产品也装饰了梵蒂冈、佛罗伦萨美第奇家族的旧宫、乌菲齐美术馆的讲坛宫,甚至莫斯科的克里姆林宫。

“To make these kinds of fabric, we cannot use the modern machines,” Mr. Bonas said, pulling out a roll of sumptuous blue embroidered silk velvet made with 350,000 stitches per meter. One worker who was weaving a cream-colored damask from a design named for the Renaissance painter Pinturicchio could be expected to complete only 80 to 100 centimeters of the fabric per day. And because the small factory employs only 20 artisans, production is predictably limited — and costly. In the adjoining showroom, walls are lined with bolts of silk, from plush velvets and intricate damasks to diaphanous taffetas, 110 to 1,360 euros (about $135 to $1,670) per meter. Decorative pillows are adorned with hand-woven trims. And, on a table, a basket is filled with sachets made of Ermisino, a shimmering silk taffeta that dates back 500 years. Inside each is potpourri from Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella, a 400-year-old pharmacy that has partnered with Antico Setificio for, as Mr. Bonas said, “only 250 years.”

“制造这些织物,我们不使用现代机器。”博纳斯说着,拉出一匹华丽的蓝色刺绣丝绸天鹅绒,每米要用35万针才能织成。有一种奶油色的缎子得名于文艺复兴时期的画家平图里乔(Pinturicchio),一名工人一天只能织出80至100厘米。由于这家小厂只雇佣了20名手工艺人,可以想见产量十分有限——也非常贵。隔壁的展览厅内,四壁挂着一匹匹的丝绸,有奢华的天鹅绒、精美的锦缎和娇贵的绉丝,每米售价110欧元至1360欧元(合135美元至1670美元)。装饰枕上缀着手工编织的流苏,一张桌子上摆着个篮子,里面装满了香囊,是用一种名叫艾莫西诺的有五百年历史的闪亮丝绸做成的,售价110至1360欧元(约合135至1670美元)。香囊里装的是圣玛利亚香草药房Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella)供应的各种香花粉末,这家药房已有400年历史,但博纳斯先生说的,“双方的合作仅有250年。”

A more recent partnership with the Stefano Ricci luxury men’s wear label, which acquired Antico Setificio in 2010, means the designer’s nearby store now stocks wearable wares made with Antico Setificio’s fine silk. INGRID K. WILLIAMS

最近的合作是与豪华男装品牌史蒂芬劳·尼治(Stefano Ricci)。2010年,它收购了古丝绸铺,这意味着附近该品牌店内的领带是用古丝绸铺的精美丝绸制造而成的。英格丽德·威廉姆斯(INGRID K. WILLIAMS)供稿。

Istanbul: Scent


Don’t visit Lokum Istanbul if you have a cold. Functioning olfactory passages and taste buds are essential for appreciating the exotic scents and sweets stacked in glass cases and on black lacquer shelves around this boutique on the European side of the city, which sits astride two continents. (A second location is in London; lokumistanbul.com has information on both).

如果你感冒了,千万别去游览“伊斯坦布尔的洛肯”(Lokum Istanbul)香料店。伊斯塔布尔这座欧洲城市横跨欧亚两个大洲,这家精品店位于该市的边缘,如果想感受店里玻璃盒中和黑漆货架上异域风格的香料和糖果,必须具备功能正常的嗅觉和味蕾。(第二家店位于伦敦,lokumistanbul.com上有两家店的介绍。)

A feast for the nose awaits in Lokum’s signature colognes (25 Turkish lira, or about $11.30 at 2.20 lira to the dollar), which were developed by the owner, Zeynep Keyman, from classic Turkish essences like rose, fig, tea and mimosa. Perfumes and incense sticks are in the works.

洛肯的签名古龙水(售价25土耳其里拉;按照1美元等于2.20里拉计算,约合11.30美元)堪称嗅觉的盛宴,它是店主斋南浦·开曼(Zeynep Keyman)研制的,从玫瑰、无花果、茶和含羞草等经典的土耳其香料中提炼精致而成。香水和棒香正在筹备中。

Lokum transforms some of those same ingredients (rose, fig) and others (lemon, pistachio, walnut) into its own lokum — better known in the West as Turkish delight — the soft gelatin cubes that have been synonymous with Istanbul for centuries (from 20 lira per box). Or try the store’s akide sekeri (18 to 55 lira), a hard candy in flavors like rose, fig, bergamot and cinnamon.

洛肯对一些大众配方(玫瑰、无花果)进行改善,加上自己独有的成分(柠檬、开心果、胡桃),制成了自己的特色产品。在西方,这些东西更有名的称呼是土耳其零食,数百年来,柔软的明胶方块几乎成了伊斯坦布尔的代名词(每盒售价20里拉起)。建议尝尝这家店的akide sekeri(18至55里拉),这种硬糖有玫瑰、无花果、佛手柑和肉桂等多种口味。

The eyes also get a dose of exotic stimuli. Inspired by “the mystic side of the East and the luxury of the West,” as Ms. Keyman puts it, a glass dome diffuses sunlight into the shop, much as in traditional Turkish baths. And most of the products come in boxes embossed with illustrated Ottoman-era scenes — mosques, pashas, pavilions — that Ms. Keyman and a Paris-based design firm derived from centuries-old toile de Jouy prints.


Even the brain finds stimulation at Lokum. The pages of “Lokum” (25 lira), an illustrated book commissioned by Ms. Keyman, recount the history and mythology of the celebrated sweet, which was invented in Istanbul in the late 18th century by a confectioner named Bekir Affendi, whose shop churns out lokum and other candies to this day. The tome is probably best read by the glow of a rose-scented Lokum candle in a silver fez-shaped holder (185 lira). SETH SHERWOOD

在洛肯,连大脑都可以找到刺激。绘本《洛肯》(25里拉)由开曼女士委托制作,讲述了洛肯的历史与神话。洛肯本是一种著名的甜点,18世纪晚期,由伊斯坦布尔的糖果师贝克尔·阿芬迪(Bekir Affendi)首创。从那以后,他的店铺开始大量制作洛肯以及其他糖果点心,直到今天。在土耳其毡帽造型的银烛台(185里拉)上点燃一支玫瑰香味的洛肯蜡烛,在烛光下阅读这本厚重的书,气氛格外迷人。赛斯·舍伍德供稿。

Lisbon: Tiles


Is there a bluer country than Portugal? The blue sky and Atlantic Ocean embrace the land. The blue moods of Fado, the melancholy folk music, form the national soundtrack. And all across Portugal, the typically blue designs of azulejos — ceramic tiles — are spread across churches, monasteries, castles, palaces, university halls, parks, train stations, hotel lobbies and apartment facades. The result is an embellished land of Christian saints, biblical episodes, Portuguese kings, historical glories, pastoral idylls, aristocrats at leisure, landscapes, seascapes, floral designs and, above all, geometric motifs.


Thousands of specimens, from the 15th century to the 1930s, fill Solar a nearly 60-year-old Lisbon tile specialist and antique dealer. (Solar Antique Tiles, a newer showroom in New York City, is run by a family member.)


Stacks of tiles and hanging panels embody historical styles such as Hispano-Moorish, Renaissance, Baroque, neo-Classical, Art Nouveau and Art Deco. Blue and white are the star colors, though yellow, green, brown and other hues sometimes play supporting roles.


Simple, small individual decorative tiles start at 20 euros ($24) for 18th-century varieties and 8 euros for 19th-century examples. Be prepared to pay 50 euros or more for 17th-century tiles and at least 100 euros for those from the 16th century.


One marquee name in stock is Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro, a celebrated 19th-century illustrator and ceramist whose work has been collected by the British Museum. A dazzling neo-Moorish geometric pattern explodes in a kaleidoscope of blue, white, emerald and caramel shapes across four tiles (90 euros a tile).

有个名字不断出现——拉斐尔·波达洛·皮涅罗(Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro),他是19世纪著名的插画家和陶艺家,作品被大英博物馆收藏。四片瓷砖上,蓝色、白色、翠绿和焦糖色构成变幻无穷的万花筒,组合出光辉夺目的新摩尔风几何图案,让人目不暇接。(每片瓷砖90欧元。)

Collectors might consider rarities like an 18th-century 56-tile panel, originally in an aristocratic lady’s dressing room, depicting a trompe l’oeil mirror in which a noblewoman can be seen gazing into a looking glass held by her attendant. The cost is 9,300 euros. Palace not included. SETH SHERWOOD


London: Hats


“Americans are not always sure what to do with hats,” said Rachel Trevor-Morgan, who was seated in the second-floor showroom of her millinery at 18 Crown Passage. This tiny lane is one of the oldest pedestrian streets in central London, complete with gas lamps — a suitable setting for one of the oldest industries in England.

“美国人不太明白应该怎么戴帽子。”瑞秋·特莱福-摩根(Rachel Trevor-Morgan)说,她坐在自己位于伦敦皇冠大道18号的女帽店二层的展览室里。这条小街是伦敦市中心最古老的步行街之一,街边的煤气灯为英格兰最古老的这一行业构成了恰到好处的背景。

Ms. Trevor-Morgan was surrounded by hats of all shapes (wide-brimmed, pillbox, beret, fascinators), in materials like silk taffeta, wool houndstooth, velour felt, straw and lace. Embellishments included peacock or spiky feathers, silk flowers or sheer veils, bows or curls.


“The point is to feel beautiful, not silly,” said Ms. Trevor-Morgan, who has designed some 65 hats for Queen Elizabeth over the last decade and creates bespoke hats for all occasions. She recommends clients make a one-hour appointment and bring along the outfit for a particular event so she can match the color. (Prices generally are 200 to 2,000 pounds, or about $313 to $3,135, at $1.57 to the pound.)


Just below her store is Lock & Company, which claims to be the oldest hat shop in the world. Established in 1676 and famous for topping the heads of Adm. Lord Nelson and Winston Churchill, it can be perused by men and women alike looking for everything from rain hats (£79) to a fedora (roughly £200) to a faux fur hat (on average, £200).

她的店铺下面就是洛克公司(Lock & Company),它始建于1676年,号称是全世界最古老的帽子店,因纳尔逊勋爵(Adm. Lord Nelson)和丘吉尔戴过而闻名于世,同等层次的人群也会来这里选购帽子,包括雨帽(79英镑)、费多拉男式软呢帽(大约200英镑)以及人造皮毛帽(均价200英镑)。

The designer Edwina Ibbotson, whose latest royal client is Pippa Middleton, says she can tell if a hat is right for a woman when she sees “that sparkle in her eye.”

设计师艾德维娜·依波逊(Edwina Ibbotson)的最新皇室客户是皮帕·米德尔顿(Pippa Middleton)。她说,一个女人如果戴对了帽子,你甚至可以看到“她眼里的光芒”。

Some celebrities are gravitating to the milliner Jess Collett, whose shop in the heart of the trendy Notting Hill area she likens to a “candy store.” Her clients include Thandie Newton and Kate Hudson, as well as the royal sisters Princesses Eugenie and Beatrice. Her hats have a playful, theatrical feel, from a red feather Mohawk to a swirling constellation of flowers.

有些名人青睐女帽制造品牌杰丝·柯莱特(Jess Collett),她家的店铺位于时尚中心区诺丁山。她把店铺比喻成一个糖果店,客户包括桑迪·牛顿(Thandie Newton)和凯特·哈德森(Kate Hudson)及王室姐妹花尤金妮公主和碧翠丝公主。她家的帽子有着顽皮的戏剧感,从一根红羽毛的莫霍克到旋转星群般的花冠。

“I want everyone to want to wear a hat,” Ms. Collett said. “It automatically makes you more interesting.” Or, as London’s arguably most fashionable hat maker, Philip Treacy, put it: “A hat can completely change the personality of the wearer. I like to make hats that make the heart beat faster.” JENNIFER CONLIN

“我希望人人都戴帽子。”柯莱特女士说,“戴上帽子,你顿时就迷人起来。”而伦敦最时尚的帽子制造商菲利普·特里希(Philip Treacy)说:“一顶帽子能完全改变人的性情。我喜欢制造让人心跳加速的帽子。”詹妮弗·柯林(JENNIFER CONLIN)供稿。

Madrid: Guitars


Crossing the threshold of one of Madrid’s storied guitar makers’ workshops can feel like stepping into the past. Curly wood shavings, from the palest pine to ebony, cascade to the floor as artisans hone a few humble planks into acoustic works of art. It’s painstaking work — all done by hand — with classical guitar models and the methods of making them changing little over the last century. The monthly production of even the most seasoned craftsmen typically maxes out at two instruments per month.


The finished products will someday go out the door, gleaming with varnish and polished metal fittings, to seduce audiences from stages around the globe. But here in Madrid, the tiny workrooms and the simple tools — as well as the last names of the artisans employing them — have often not changed in generations.


My first encounter with luthiers, or guitarreros (guitar makers), took place deep in the heart of Madrid’s historic center, where I went looking for one workshop and found several.


The door is usually open at Mariano Conde’s shop (Calle Amnistía 1; marianoconde.com), a tiny two-level workshop near the Teatro Realm where Mr. Conde, his son — also named Mariano — and two other craftsmen move between molds, saws, planes and files. Prices are 2,800 euros ($3,500) for a standard flamenco guitar to 18,000 euros ($23,000) for his finest classical concert guitar.

马里亚诺·孔德(Mariano Conde)的吉他铺(Calle Amnistía 1; marianoconde.com)是一座两层的手工小作坊,位于皇家剧院附近。孔德先生和他的儿子(名字也叫马里亚诺)带着两名手工艺人在模具、锯子、模板与锉刀之间辛勤劳作。一只标准的弗拉门科吉他售价2800欧元(合3500美元),最精美的古典音乐会吉他售价18000欧元(合23000美元)。

Mr. Conde is a third-generation guitar maker from the fabled (and now defunct) house of Hermanos Conde, and his brother Felipe also continues the family legacy at his own shop nearby (Calle Arrieta 4; felipeconde.es). A 10-minute walk away, on the other side of Plaza Mayor, is another cluster of luthiers, including José Ramírez (Calle de la Paz 8; guitarrasramirez.com), Pedro de Miguel (Calle Amor de Dios 13; guitarraspedrodemiguel.com) and Juan Álvarez (Calle San Pedro 7; guitarrasjuanalvarez.com).

孔德先生是第三代吉他工匠,过去,他的祖上在传说中艾尔玛诺·孔德(Hermanos Conde)的住宅里制造吉他,尽管那座房子现在已经堙没了。而今,他的哥哥菲利浦也传承了这份家族产业,在附近开了家店铺(Calle Arrieta 4; felipeconde.es)。十分钟步程之外,市长广场的对面是另一片吉他作坊聚集地,包括何塞·拉米雷斯(José Ramírez,Calle de la Paz 8; guitarrasramirez.com)、佩德罗·德·米格尔(Pedro de Miguel;Calle Amor de Dios 13; guitarraspedrodemiguel.com)和胡安·阿尔瓦雷斯(Juan Álvarez; Calle San Pedro 7; guitarrasjuanalvarez.com)的店铺。

A guitar’s colorful mix of woods is less an aesthetic choice than a science. Each element of the instrument’s anatomy has specific physical and acoustic demands, and its maker knows which woods can accomplish each function. It’s fascinating to consider that the materials for today’s instruments may have been purchased by the artisans’ fathers 30 or 40 years ago, just as the German spruce and Canadian cedar today’s guitarreros acquire will sit drying for decades until it’s suitable to be turned into guitars by their children or grandchildren. ANDREW FERREN

吉他是多姿多彩的木制工艺品。它不仅是审美,更多是科学的选择。每一把乐器中的每个因素都有特殊的物理与声学要求,工匠懂得哪种木板能够完美呈现相应的功能。想到今天这些制琴材料有可能是这些工匠的父辈们三四十年前采购而来,如今的吉他工匠购买的德国云杉和加拿大雪松也将堆积在库房中等待子孙们数十年后才启用,真让人会心一笑。安德鲁·菲林(ANDREW FERREN)供稿。

Paris: Umbrellas


“Can you picture how drop-dead gorgeous this city is in the rain?” So muses the American tourist Gil Pender, played by Owen Wilson, in Woody Allen’s “Midnight in Paris.”

“你能想像在雨天,这座城市美得多么不可救药吗?”在伍迪·艾伦的电影《午夜巴黎》(Midnight in Paris)中,欧文·威尔逊(Owen Wilson)扮演的美国游客吉尔·彭达(Gil Pender)若有所思地说。

When you’re ready to find out, stop at Parasolerie Heurtault (85, avenue Daumesnil; parasolerieheurtault.com), a haven of handmade, high-end umbrellas in myriad materials and styles made by the craftsman Michel Heurtault.

如果你打算领略一番,就在赫尔托特伞店(Parasolerie Heurtault,多梅尼大街85号,网址parasolerieheurtault.com)停下脚步。这家避风港专营的高端手工阳伞由手工艺人米歇尔·赫尔托特(Michel Heurtault)亲手制作,含各种材料和款式。

After a career making costumes for films, theatrical productions, historical balls and French fashion houses, Mr. Heurtault in 2008 opened his atelier-boutique to devote himself to the devices that had fascinated him since youth. “By 8 years old,” Mr. Heurtalt said, “I could take them apart fully and put them back together again.”


Using both modern and centuries-old machines and tools, he and an assistant construct the shop’s wares. Fine and rare woods form the shafts. Handles range from sewn leather to engraved silver to carved wood inlaid with horn or jewels. Linen, cotton or silk — all treated to be impermeable to water and ultraviolet rays — are cut and sewn into the canopies, which might be adorned with lace, ribbon, embroidery or even ostrich feathers.


To tap your inner Audrey, the Hepburn model (520 euros, about $640) is made from striped black and white fabric with black lace trim. The slim, straight beechwood stem and handle allow for easy twirling. The Dorléac (490 euros) is named for the actress Françoise Dorléac (sister of Catherine Deneuve) and sports a red sequin web under its black silk canopy. For protection from the elements (and paparazzi), the VIP (690 euros) features a deep bell-shaped canopy. The men’s version of the VIP, called Prosper (490 euros), incorporates black or gray silk, a maple shaft, and an inlaid horn handle.

为了宠爱你内心的奥黛丽·赫本,买一把赫本典范伞(520欧元,合640美元左右)吧,它用黑白条纹加黑色蕾丝边制成,笔挺修长的山榉木伞柄和伞把很容易旋转。丹妮芙伞(49欧元)得名于凯瑟琳·德纳芙(Catherine Deneuve)的姐姐、女明星弗朗索瓦斯·丹妮芙(Françoise Dorléac),黑丝绸的伞盖之下罩着红色的亮片网。为了保护用户免受恶劣天气(和狗仔队)的侵袭,VIP伞(69欧元)的特色是一张深深的钟形伞盖。VIP伞的男性版本叫做繁荣(Prosper,490欧元),由黑色与灰色的丝绸制成,有枫木伞柄和镶嵌牛角的伞把。

The shop even sells the Rolls-Royce of umbrellas — literally. Invited by Rolls to create an umbrella inspired by the car’s interior, Mr. Heurtault produced one with a curved ebony-wood shaft, a handle of white stingray leather, thin ribs sheathed in white silk, and a large black silk canopy. All for just 8,000 euros. SETH SHERWOOD


Prague: Toys


There’s no shortage of souvenir shops in Prague, especially in touristic Old Town, but most of what these shops offer — Russian-style nesting dolls, reproduction Soviet tank commander hats, knockoff Barcelona football jerseys — has no connection to Czech culture or traditions. But as the father of two Czech-American children, I have often been impressed with the Czech Republic’s traditional children’s toys, and frequently recommend them as authentic souvenirs.


One of the best outlets for traditional toys, or hracky, is the five-year-old Retro Hracky shop (Nuselska 90; retro-hracky.cz). Owned by Rene Zelnicek, a builder of professional models for architects and property developers, the shop is an easy trip on public transportation from the city center out to the decidedly nontouristic residential neighborhood of Michle. After a direct ride on the No. 11 tram line from the Muzeum stop at the top of Wenceslas Square, you’ll spot the giant Hracky sign on the side of a faded modernist building, right when you get off 12 minutes later at the Pod Jezerkou stop.

传统玩具最好的去处之一就是有五年历史的怀旧玩具店(Retro Hracky,Nuselska 90; retro-hracky.cz),店主雷内·泽尼恰克(Rene Zelnicek)是一位专业建筑模型设计师兼房地产开发。该店很容易找,市中心有公共车直达游客稀少的麦可尔住宅区。乘坐11路电车,从瓦刺拉夫广场一端的博物馆站出发,坐12分钟,在Pod Jezerkou站下车后,你就会在褪色的现代化建筑旁边看到巨大的怀旧标志。

The inside seems less like a toy store and more like a toy closet: a single small room overstuffed with beautiful, long-haired Hamiro dolls (around 300 Czech koruna, or about $14 at 21.7 koruna to the dollar) and boxes of Merkur metal construction sets (400 to 2,500 koruna), whose designs seem little changed since their first appearance in 1920. Inside one display case is an impressively realistic layout of Merkur’s O-scale model trains, on top of which are unusual stuffed animals, like the three-foot-high giraffe (750 koruna) and packs of simple wooden toys with wheels and pull strings. Everything seems quirky and fun, and often remarkably affordable.


More important, almost everything has a real connection to the Czech lands. When you start playing with the old-fashioned wind-up metal toys from the Czech company Kovap, you will probably fall in love with the tiny version of the country’s classic Zetor tractor, complete with working forward and reverse gears (720 koruna), as well as optional attachable hay wagons, cisterns, seeders and tillers. In terms of entertainment, such historic toys probably don’t have much on Candy Crush Saga. But unlike most modern playthings, these toys don’t seem as if they could have been made anywhere else in the world. EVAN RAIL

更重要的是,几乎一切都与捷克这片土地有真正的关联。当你摆弄着捷克科瓦普公司出品的老式的、发条金属玩具,大概会爱上该国的古典版泽塔拖拉机模型,有向前和后退发条(720克朗),还有可拆卸式干草马车、水箱、播种机和耕作机。说到娱乐性,这些老玩具也许与糖果粉碎传奇几乎没有相似之处。但与大多数现代玩具不同的是,老玩具不是世界各地随处可造的。埃文·瑞尔(EVAN RAIL)供稿。

Sarajevo: Coffee Sets


To know Sarajevo, you must understand the importance of coffee. Making traditional kafa (coffee) — introduced here soon after the Ottoman Empire conquered the Kingdom of Bosnia in 1463 — is a process. Grounds are roasted in a dzezva (JEHZ-vah) before adding boiling water. When the froth foams to the top, the rich brew is poured into a small, handleless china cup known as a fildzan (FILL-john), which sits in a copper sheath, or zarf. The world grinds to a halt. Cigarettes are lit. Conversations take hushed tones.


The ritual that is Bosanska (Bosnian) kafa is lost on many tourists as they navigate the beehive of trinket-peddling hawkers in the cobblestone alleys of Bascarsija, the Ottoman Quarter. But a trained ear can make out craftsmen coaxing copper into vessels used for preparing and drinking Sarajevo’s beloved beverage.


On Kazandziluk (or coppersmith’s) Street, across from Sebilj, find the wooden fountain in Bascarsija’s main square. Midway down the narrow flagstone avenue, Muhamed Husejnovic sits in his shop, Kazandzijska Radnja (Kazandziluk 18), hammer-pinging coffee sets (around 50 Bosnian convertible marks, or KM, $34 at 1.46 KM to the dollar), as Bosnians have done for 500 years.

在塞比利对面的铜匠大街,在巴斯卡斯加大广场上寻找木喷泉,沿着狭窄的石板路走到一半,就看到穆罕默德·胡塞努维克Muhamed Husejnovic)坐在自家的店铺Kazandzijska Radnja (Kazandziluk 18)里,挥舞着锤子锻造咖啡壶(售价大概50波斯尼亚可兑换马克,或称KM;按照1美元等于1.46KM计算,合34美元),正如波斯尼亚人500年前所做的那样。

“This work is not respected like it once was,” said Mr. Husejnovic, whose family business goes back more than 200 years. “For every 100 cheap coffee sets sold in Bascarsija, I sell one.”