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米兰时装周的变与不变

    The moment that swallowed up the entire Milan Fashion Week took place at the end of the Versace show.

    将整个米兰时装周吞噬的一刻,发生在范思哲秀的结尾。

    Everyone knows that there will be surprises beforehand, but no one knows what it is. The lights dimmed, the soundtrack gradually rose, and then - Jennifer Lopez! 50-year-old Jennifer Lopez! Dressed in the new version of the jungle print skirt that passed through the 2000 Grammy Awards, it debuted.

    大家事先已经知道会有惊喜,但是没人知道具体是什么。灯光变暗,配乐渐起,接着——詹妮弗·洛佩兹!50岁的詹妮弗·洛佩兹!身着那件在2000年格莱美颁奖礼上穿过的丛林印花裙的全新版本,闪亮登场。

    Yes, that is, the skirt that has been split from the navel to the navel, and below the crotch, caused a lot of online searches. Internet and fashion legends are the cause of Google's ability to create image search functions (more credible is that this skirt is only part of the reason; it is of course important, but still only a part).

    对,就是,那件上面开叉一直到肚脐,下面到胯部的裙子,在当时引发了大量的网上搜索。互联网和时装界传说它是谷歌制作图片搜索功能的起因(更为可信的说法是这条裙子只是其中一部分原因;它当然很重要,但仍然只是一部分)。

    The skirt has been upgraded, which is obvious – there are fewer fabrics on the side, the sleeves are removed, the matching bikini leggings are studded with gems, and the palms are decorated with colorful palm leaves. But these are just the details; the impact it brings is still the same. The bag is in your hand. The entire audience was brushed up and stood up. People have pulled out their mobile phones and waved like daggers. Every time they waved, they seemed to be cutting out the little pieces that belonged to them from her step-by-step display.

    裙子得到了一些升级,这是显而易见的——侧面的布料更少了,去掉了袖子,配色比基尼打底裤上镶满宝石,肩上也添加了色彩斑斓的棕榈叶状装饰。但这些都只是细节;它带来的冲击力还是一样的。包包攥在手中。整个观众席齐刷刷的起立。人们纷纷掏出手机,像匕首一样挥舞,每一下挥舞,似乎都在从她的信步展示中切割下属于自己的那一小块。

    please forgive. However, if there is anything that can be called the fashion finale since the turn of the millennium, the dramatic changes in these years – or the same – will come out, and that is the dress.

    请原谅。但是,如果真有什么东西能称得上千年之交以来的时装大结局,将这些年的剧变——或者不变——具现出来,那就是这件裙装了。

    Of course, there was neither Instagram nor live streaming at that time; people at that time would not see the show through their small camera lens, they all used their own naked eyes; the designers at that time only released two series ( Or only two of us have heard of it; editorial and glamorous fashion magazines are still the main source of fashion information; those who are fashion people will not consider themselves even if they read Silent Spring at school. Have any connection with this book with the work you do.

    当然,那时候既没有Instagram也没有流媒体直播;那时的人们可不会通过他们小小的相机镜头来看秀,他们都用自己的肉眼;那时的设计师一年只发布两个系列(或者说只有两个我们听说过);编辑和光鲜的时尚杂志仍是获得时装资讯的主要渠道;那些时尚界人士即便在学校读过《寂静的春天》(Silent Spring),也不会认为自己和自己所从事的工作与这本书有任何联系。

    This makes people feel uncomfortable: the world has changed to this point! But obviously this is not the case for Lopez; she looks the same as in the past. If she wants to say something changes, she is now more powerful and more fit.

    这让人禁不住感慨:世事已变化至此!但显然对洛佩兹来讲不是这样;她看起来与当年并无二致。硬要说有什么变化的话,她现在更有力、更健美了。

    But the same is true of most of Donatella Versace's fashion designs: pointed-shoulder black dresses with huge gold hardware; pleated sweatshirts that deliberately reveal the flanks; tie-dyed Medusa T-shirts From the denim jacket to the fringe on the edges, the sequined evening dresses with sharp three-dimensional alien flowers, almost every piece of clothing is cobalt blue jade, fire opal, or jungle print.

    但是多娜泰拉·范思哲(Donatella Versace)的大多数时装设计也是如此:饰有巨大金色五金的尖肩黑色小礼服裙;刻意露出侧腹的打褶运动衫;扎染的美杜莎T恤;从牛仔夹克到边缘镶着流苏,装点着尖锐的立体外星花朵的亮片晚装,几乎每件衣服上都是钴蓝翡翠,火蛋白石,或者是丛林印花。

    This also shows that the real point of this fashion show is "the more change, the more unchanged", and so on. The fashion scenes of New York and London may endure the pain of the turbulent changes in the city; the deformation of social and political life, a new balance of power, is reflected in the evolution of the runway. But in Milan, the status quo 20 years ago is still the status quo today. This sounds boring and annoying, although the status quo is beautified as "inheritance" or "gene".

纽约时报中英文网 http://www.qqenglish.com/

    这也说明了这场时装秀真正的要点是“越改变,越不变”,诸如此类。纽约和伦敦的时装风貌,可能最终要承受城市的动荡激变带来的阵痛;社会和政治生活的形变,一种新的权力平衡,在伸展台的演化中得到体现。但是在米兰,20年前的现状,仍是今天的现状。这听起来真是乏味而恼人,尽管这样的现状被美化为“传承”或“基因”。

    The sun and the earth and the place

    太阳和地球以及原地踏步

    Let's look at this problem: The global climate strike coincides with the Versace fashion show on the same day. On this day, thousands of people took to the streets of New York, Berlin and Sydney, while in Milan they were as usual.

    这样来看这个问题吧:全球气候大罢工恰好与范思哲时装秀发生在同一天。这一天里,成千上万的人走上纽约,柏林和悉尼的街头,而在米兰则一切如常。

    “Is there a protest here?” the tourists asked. The locals raised their eyebrows and shrugged. Later, Giorgio Armani named his show "Earth" and sparked some expectations - but in the end people found out that it was only because it was inspired by the colors of the earth that gradually became clear in the morning mist. (dark brown, midnight blue).

    “这里会发生抗议活动吗?”游客们问道。本地人扬起眉毛耸耸肩。稍后,乔治·阿玛尼(Giorgio Armani)将自己的秀命名为“地球”,引发了一些期待——但最终人们发现,那仅仅是因为它的灵感来自于晨雾中逐渐明朗起来的大地的色彩(深棕色,午夜蓝)。

    The trousers are pleated on the hips, tightened in the calves, or loosely like pajama pants. Jackets are either long or short, or curved or square. The skirt is long and elegant, usually thin and transparent. There are some sportswear references, a little banana palm tree print, and a lot of pastel patterns. In the end, the two models appeared in a shiny evening gown, and their bodies were wrapped in a layer of organza with a stiff fold; both female models held one elbow with one arm. The other hand is erected upwards and lifted to one side, as if it were a cigarette. But the truth is, now is 2019, so that one is empty. This is a metaphor, if there are people who will think about it.

    裤装在髋部打褶,在小腿收紧,或是干脆像睡裤一般松散。夹克或长或短,或曲或方。半身裙长而飘逸,通常薄而透明。有一些运动服饰参考,一点香蕉棕榈树印花,不少粉彩纹样。到最后,两位模特穿着闪亮的晚礼服登场,她们的身躯被包裹在一层打着硬挺褶皱的欧根纱外壳中;两位女模特都用一只胳膊托着另一只的肘部,另一只手则向上竖起并向一侧扬去,就好像是夹了支烟的姿势。但事实是,眼下是2019年,所以那只手里空空如也。这是个隐喻,假如还有人会花心思去想的话。

    At the same time, in the summer fashion show made by Missoni around a giant public swimming pool, Angela Missoni gave each guest a mini of Olafur Eliasson. Solar lights, with a message: "With us with the sun, our planet has reached a critical juncture, we should take action."

    与此同时,在Missoni围绕一个巨型公共泳池制作的夏日时装秀场上,安吉拉·米索尼(Angela Missoni)送给每位来宾一只奥拉维尔·埃利亚松(Olafur Eliasson)的迷你太阳能灯,并附有留言:“和我们一起与太阳牵手,我们的星球已到了紧要关头,我们应当采取行动。”

    Then, like Sony, Versace and Armani, they did some aesthetic recycling and reuse, with layers of layers of sparkling metal ornaments, strips of flowers stacked with plaids of ultra-thin knit fabric, and one (or two pieces) wrapped around the waist. The cardigan on the top makes the beautiful men of the 1970s and the free people who love their love to die.

纽约时报中英文网 http://www.qqenglish.com/

    接着,米索尼和范思哲、阿玛尼一样,做了一些美学回收再利用,用一层层闪烁着金属饰物、条纹叠着花朵叠着格子的超薄针织面料、一件(或两件)缠在腰上的开衫,让1970年代的花样美男和爱他们爱得要死的自由人士重现人间。

    There isn't a reduction in the number (there are 72 shapes in the entire Missoni show), but there is no doubt that there is reuse: creativity, silhouette, print, and in doing so, often with joy and carelessness. Remember this? ! That is it.

    数量上不见得有什么减少(整场Missoni秀共有72个造型),但毫无疑问有重复利用:创意、廓形、印花,并且在这样做时,往往带着欢快的无所顾忌。还记得这个吗?!那就是它了。

    Where does this lead us?

    这将我们领向何方?

    At Etro's fashion show, Veronica Etro is also associated with Keith Richards, Anita Pallenberg and Jane Birkin. Reminiscing about the flow of years; paisley and butterfly embroidery; gorgeous rock-cut tailoring and wandering style fringed trim sweater (with her father Jimo's first striped men's shirt). At the Salvatore Ferragamo show, Paul Andrew updated the brand's most famous shoe, Vara (the flat shoes with the bow on the tip of the shoe), changed its name to Viva, and the overall shoe was stretched. The material of the bow has also been changed to leather - he used this idea almost exclusively for men and women in this series: upgrading the classics. Remove the back of the leather trench coat for a sense of movement; the bubble skirt of the skirt; the Poseidon print inspired by the marble fountain statue, is applied to everything from loose pants to evening dresses.

    在Etro的时装秀上,维罗尼卡·艾绰(Veronica Etro)也与基斯·理查兹(Keith Richards),安妮塔·帕里博格(Anita Pallenberg)和简·柏金(Jane Birkin)一起追忆流年;佩斯利纹与蝴蝶刺绣;华丽摇滚式的剪裁和流浪风格的流苏饰边毛衣(配上她父亲吉莫首创的条纹男士衬衫)。在Salvatore Ferragamo秀上,保罗·安德鲁(Paul Andrew)对品牌最著名的鞋款——Vara(就那种鞋尖装饰了蝴蝶结的平底鞋)做了更新,更名为Viva,整体鞋型被拉长,蝴蝶结的材质也改成了皮革——他对这个系列的男装和女装差不多就是用这个思路:对经典进行升级。去掉皮革风衣的背面以利动感;半身裙的泡泡裙摆;受大理石喷泉塑像启发的海神印花,被运用到从宽松卫裤到晚礼服的一切设计上。

    This is a gradual process. Although the familiarity may be reassuring, it also led us to some uneasy conclusions. We have all experienced and passed through - and you see how we are doing now? Not very good.

    这是一个循序渐进的过程。尽管熟悉感可能令人宽慰,但也让我们得出了一些不安的结论。这些我们都经历过、穿过——结果你看我们现在怎么样了?并不是很好。

    That's why Marni's show brought such shock. Francesco Risso has been the creative director for nearly three years and has taken full control of the brand. He is transforming the brand's own quirky art scene into something more ambitious and more adventurous. His approach is also scratching his head, but with a conspicuous magnetism.

    这就是为什么Marni的秀带来如此的震撼。弗朗西斯科·里索(Francesco Risso)接过创意总监的职位将近三年,已经完全执掌了这个品牌,他正在将这个品牌自身古怪的艺术圈格调转化为一些更具野心、更冒险的东西。他的方式本身也令人挠头,但有一种显眼的磁性。

    The theme around this time is -- oh... who knows what it is? However, it involves some kind of fabricated tropical disease, and its exclusive medicine “Tachitropirina”, which treats “state of metamorphosis and deformation” and “extremely fanatical emotions such as the Fauvism” and “complete loss of mobility”. The crowd could not use this medicine, which should have been reflected from the layout of the conference, including cartoon palm trees made of recycled plastic and recycled cardboard. In addition, the bright lines spilled from the clothing can also be seen. It is conceivable to transplant the Tahiti of Gauguin to the banks of the Tiber River. This is probably what it means.

    这一次围绕他的主题是——呃……谁知道那是什么呢?不过其中涉及某种编造的热带疾病,有其专属良药“Tachitropirina”,这种药主治“变态和变形的状态”以及“极度狂热的情感,比如野兽派”,还有“完全丧失行动力”的人群不能使用这种药,这一点从发布会现场布置上应该已经体现出来了,其中有回收塑料和再生纸板制成的卡通棕榈树。此外从服装上泼洒的亮色线条也可以看出来。可以想象把高更的大溪地移植到台伯河畔,大概就是这个意思了。

    Lazy shirt with a sleek blouse from the shoulders, a skirt with a knotted knot and a knot; a long grooved leather pleated slip; a simple oval collar twill dress with a layer of crocheted flowers The pattern net; the inflated coat wraps the body; and the apron dress is so loosely hung on the body, wonderfully attached to all possibilities. We are basically this state. Or want this state.

    懒懒从一边肩头滑下的华丽蓬蓬上衣,搭配在胯部聚拢和纽结的半身裙;长长的压槽皮革百褶衬裙;简洁的椭圆领斜纹布礼服外面罩着一层钩针编织的花朵纹样网;膨胀感的外套包裹住身体;而围裙式的连衣裙就那么松松垮垮的挂在身上,美妙的依附住一切可能性。我们基本上就是这个状态了。或是想要这个状态。

    These clothes are not virally popular - there is a good chance that there will never be a piece of clothing that can do this on their own. Versace seems to understand this better than anyone else - but they finally come up with a problem that is hard to ignore View.

    这些服装没有病毒式走红——很有可能再也不会有一件衣服能凭一己之力做到这一点了,范思哲似乎比任何人都更明白这一点——但它们终于提出了一个难以无视的观点。

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