PARIS-They wore tweed and pearls, camellia, and a glittering double-C logo to attend Karl Lagerfeld's last Chanel show-his last grand performance. They wore Chanel sneakers and sci-fi silver Chanel boots, Chanel belts and Chanel handbags. Anna Wintour wears a pink Chanel long suit, while Janelle Monae wears a colorful, shiny skirt from the Temple of Dendur at Chanel series.
巴黎——她们穿戴着粗花呢和珍珠、山茶花和亮闪闪的双C标志，来参加卡尔·拉格斐(Karl Lagerfeld)的最后一场香奈儿(Chanel)秀——他的最后一场盛大演出。她们穿着香奈儿运动鞋和科幻感十足的银色香奈儿小靴子，香奈儿的腰带和香奈儿手袋。安娜·温图尔(Anna Wintour)一身粉红色的香奈儿长套装，贾妮尔·莫纳(Janelle Monae)则穿着五颜六色、闪闪发亮的裙子，来自香奈尔的丹铎神庙(Temple of Dendur)系列。
Throughout the fashion season, Chanel always attracts more customers than other shows, and those loyal fans and determined buyers are always proud to show their elegance. But under the bright glass dome of the Grand Palais in Paris, this space has never turned into a sea of ??knotted wool like it does now.
Nearly an hour before the opening of the fashion show at 10.30am, they came here, and saw more than a dozen Swiss wooden houses standing on the scene, with towering mountains in the background, and smoke from the chimney, which was full of smoke. Snow covered the runway. Chanel's skis and poles protrude from a hill between 50 gray / green firs and white light poles. According to news from within the brand, Lagerfeld knew he had no more days to come when planning this fashion show with his former assistant Virginie Viard. Viad is now his heir to Chanel.
Together they create a moment of true peace.
Then, the wind rang. After a minute of silence, Lagerfeld's voice was heard from the audio system—or the intermittent and familiar way of speaking like a cannonball—the models followed the steps of the Gardenia Lodge. Led by Cara Delevingne, one of Lagerfeld's favorite models.
What are they wearing?
Loose and soft black and white tweed coat, wide high-waisted pleated pants, hands in pockets. Tight panties like tight shorts under tight skirts, with short jackets, even more figure. The sweater dress features a three-dimensional Nordic pattern, and the Chanel No. 5 is looming. The zip ski shirt with crystal pattern is spelled out with real crystal. Down jackets are made of primary colors (including bright purple). Sheepskin double C belt bag. Snowflake hair accessory jewelry. Cloudy chiffon dress with ski villain pattern and CC chair lift printed on it; the little dress is made of white duchess satin, shining with cold light; there is also a "snowball skirt" (brand use This is the name), which is a vest embroidered with a golden snowflake pattern. Actress Penelope Cruz walked in, holding a white rose in her hand. Finally, it was David Bowie's Heroes.
宽松柔软的黑白粗花呢外套，宽大的高腰百褶裤，双手插在口袋里。紧身短裙下如同紧身短裤般的短衬裤，搭配短款夹克，更显身材。针织衫连衣裙采用立体感的北欧图案，香奈儿五号若隐若现。拉链滑雪衫带水晶图案，是用真正的水晶拼出。羽绒服采用原色（包括亮紫色）。剪毛绵羊革双C腰包。雪花款发饰珠宝。云雾雪纺连衣裙，上面印有滑雪小人图案以及CC升降椅；小礼服采用白色的公爵夫人缎，闪烁着冷冷的光芒；还有白生丝和雪纺面料的“雪球裙”（品牌用的就是这个名字），也就是绣有金色雪花图案的马甲。女演员佩内洛普·克鲁兹(Penelope Cruz)走了进来，手里拿着一朵白玫瑰。最后，是大卫·鲍伊(David Bowie)的《英雄》(Heroes)奏起。
Many viewers and models shed tears. But this is not a funeral. It is not a retrospective. This is the classic Chanel, full of Lagerfeld's style: commoditization, drama style, full of creativity, sometimes delicate and clumsy, forward-looking and historical. Almost film-like scale. No doubt.
However, no one came out and bowed in spite of the standing ovation.
Nothing has changed-Chanel insists that nothing changes; the team and Viade (who got the parallel signing rights with Lagerfeld in this series of notes) will work as always-but some things have changed. On each chair is a small bag (there will always be a small bag), which contains a variety of photos of the series, as well as a replica of Lagerfeld's sketches, with him and Coco Chanel ( Coco Chanel) walking side by side. He was wearing black sunglasses, a pigtail, and a white collar. She was wearing a hat decorated with camellia and carrying a quilted bag. There was a line of scribbled writing on top of their heads: "It doesn't stop."
I just inevitably changed the tone.
How difficult it is for any brand that has lost its leader (not the designer to resign or decide to sell), but remains the same in operation, in the absence of the person who has been defining it for many years . However, Chanel's plan has precedents and good results.
After the accidental death of Azzedine Ala?a in November 2017, the company did not choose any designer to replace him (people are generally considered irreplaceable), but instead developed his archives and sketches, allowing The brand continues to grow in accordance with his image and vision.
After three seasons, the brand adopts an approach that not only adopts the past fabrics and forms, but also keeps them moving forward: the butterfly print created by Araya in 1991 (he likes to work late at night and then watch the National Geographic channel program) came A thin, long lace dress; a double-breasted fleece from 1986 with a large collar and twisted pleats on the waist, almost like a cardigan with a tightened back, Still resolutely combining rigor and sensuality; on his classic wide funnel-neck knitted dress, the python print and floral-shaped ensemble seamlessly blend together. A sweatshirt covered with blue and purple hand-beaded swirls, just like the Northern Lights, inspired by the patterns on previous leather jackets, is still very popular today. Or will continue to be popular.
Also Alexander McQueen. The founder of the brand committed suicide in 2010. Like Chanel, the brand's long-standing No. 2 person has also been appointed as its head. Nearly 10 years later, Sarah Burton slowly and subtly transformed the brand into her own, pushing it forward without ever denying or losing contact with the founder. Instead, she polished its edges and corners and illuminated its darkness, adding some wild romance.
还有亚历山大·麦昆(Alexander McQueen)。品牌创始人于2010年自杀身亡，与香奈儿一样，品牌长期以来的二号人物也被任命为它的掌门人。近10年后，莎拉·伯顿(Sarah Burton)慢慢地、巧妙地把这个品牌打造成她自己的，在从未否认或失去与创始人联系的情况下，推动了它的发展。相反，她打磨它的棱角，照亮它的黑暗，加入了一些野性的浪漫。
With good intentions, I use it to express my views on the world.
This season, she did it with special skills. She worked with a factory in a community in northern England where she was a child (the audience sits on huge rolls of fabric customized for this occasion, they are surprisingly comfortable; all producer names are included in the press conference description)-once the UK leaves The kind of business that the European Union could be threatened with-she extolls their professions, presents them in a remarkable form, shows how important these traditions and talents are, and how much they would cost if they were left alone.
方形 Square (but not exaggerated) meticulous grey jacket with shoulders shows that power can be conveyed through tailoring, rather than through shoulder pads, whose sides hang down like a waterfall to the knees, and are embellished with woven edges written "Made in England. The Bronte novel's heroine-style tea party skirt is made of Duchess satin, with a fuzzy watercolor rose print on it, and the waist is buckled with a double-studded belt. Leather and satin are rotated into roses on the waist and upper arms-York's white roses, Lancaster's red roses.
A tights is made of woven straps with silver tailor buttons. Lace silhouettes a variety of wild animals: owls and cormorants, seagulls and worker bees. The industrial machine with a metallic sheen turned into a tulle dress with tiny silver chains and treasures shining on it. Every choice makes sense.
This is a hymn to Britain (that can be worn on the body), a UK full of thoughts and myths, a UK that might have been, or a UK that might never have.
This is acknowledging that in this case, as in all cases, we must look forward to the day when the future is ripe and wait and see what will happen next.