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“老佛爷”的最后一场香奈儿秀

  PARIS-They wore tweed and pearls, camellia, and a glittering double-C logo to attend Karl Lagerfeld's last Chanel show-his last grand performance. They wore Chanel sneakers and sci-fi silver Chanel boots, Chanel belts and Chanel handbags. Anna Wintour wears a pink Chanel long suit, while Janelle Monae wears a colorful, shiny skirt from the Temple of Dendur at Chanel series.

  巴黎——她们穿戴着粗花呢和珍珠、山茶花和亮闪闪的双C标志,来参加卡尔·拉格斐(Karl Lagerfeld)的最后一场香奈儿(Chanel)秀——他的最后一场盛大演出。她们穿着香奈儿运动鞋和科幻感十足的银色香奈儿小靴子,香奈儿的腰带和香奈儿手袋。安娜·温图尔(Anna Wintour)一身粉红色的香奈儿长套装,贾妮尔·莫纳(Janelle Monae)则穿着五颜六色、闪闪发亮的裙子,来自香奈尔的丹铎神庙(Temple of Dendur)系列。

  Throughout the fashion season, Chanel always attracts more customers than other shows, and those loyal fans and determined buyers are always proud to show their elegance. But under the bright glass dome of the Grand Palais in Paris, this space has never turned into a sea of ??knotted wool like it does now.

  在整个时装季,香奈儿总是比其他的秀能吸引更多的顾客,那些忠实的粉丝和坚定的购买者总是为能展现出自己的优雅而自豪。但在巴黎大皇宫明亮的玻璃穹顶下,这个空间从来没有像现在这样,化作结子绒的海洋。

  Nearly an hour before the opening of the fashion show at 10.30am, they came here, and saw more than a dozen Swiss wooden houses standing on the scene, with towering mountains in the background, and smoke from the chimney, which was full of smoke. Snow covered the runway. Chanel's skis and poles protrude from a hill between 50 gray / green firs and white light poles. According to news from within the brand, Lagerfeld knew he had no more days to come when planning this fashion show with his former assistant Virginie Viard. Viad is now his heir to Chanel.

  离上午10点30分的时装秀开场还有将近一个小时,她们就来到了这里,只见现场立着十多座瑞士木屋,背景是高耸的群山,还有烟囱冒着烟,周围满是积雪,埋过了T台。香奈尔的滑雪板和滑雪杖从50棵灰色/绿色的冷杉和白色灯柱之间的小丘上伸出。据来自该品牌内部的消息,在和曾经的得力助手维吉尼·维亚德(Virginie Viard)一起策划这场时装秀时,拉格斐知道自己来日无多了。维亚德现在是他在香奈儿的衣钵传人。

  Together they create a moment of true peace.

  他们一起创造了一个真正的和平时刻。

  Then, the wind rang. After a minute of silence, Lagerfeld's voice was heard from the audio system—or the intermittent and familiar way of speaking like a cannonball—the models followed the steps of the Gardenia Lodge. Led by Cara Delevingne, one of Lagerfeld's favorite models.

  然后,风铃声声。默哀一分钟后,音响系统传出拉格斐的声音——还是那断断续续又如连珠炮般令人熟悉的说话方式——模特们随之走下栀子花小屋的台阶。领头的是拉格斐最喜欢的模特之一卡拉·德莱文涅(Cara Delevingne)。

  What are they wearing?

  她们穿的是什么?

  Loose and soft black and white tweed coat, wide high-waisted pleated pants, hands in pockets. Tight panties like tight shorts under tight skirts, with short jackets, even more figure. The sweater dress features a three-dimensional Nordic pattern, and the Chanel No. 5 is looming. The zip ski shirt with crystal pattern is spelled out with real crystal. Down jackets are made of primary colors (including bright purple). Sheepskin double C belt bag. Snowflake hair accessory jewelry. Cloudy chiffon dress with ski villain pattern and CC chair lift printed on it; the little dress is made of white duchess satin, shining with cold light; there is also a "snowball skirt" (brand use This is the name), which is a vest embroidered with a golden snowflake pattern. Actress Penelope Cruz walked in, holding a white rose in her hand. Finally, it was David Bowie's Heroes.

  宽松柔软的黑白粗花呢外套,宽大的高腰百褶裤,双手插在口袋里。紧身短裙下如同紧身短裤般的短衬裤,搭配短款夹克,更显身材。针织衫连衣裙采用立体感的北欧图案,香奈儿五号若隐若现。拉链滑雪衫带水晶图案,是用真正的水晶拼出。羽绒服采用原色(包括亮紫色)。剪毛绵羊革双C腰包。雪花款发饰珠宝。云雾雪纺连衣裙,上面印有滑雪小人图案以及CC升降椅;小礼服采用白色的公爵夫人缎,闪烁着冷冷的光芒;还有白生丝和雪纺面料的“雪球裙”(品牌用的就是这个名字),也就是绣有金色雪花图案的马甲。女演员佩内洛普·克鲁兹(Penelope Cruz)走了进来,手里拿着一朵白玫瑰。最后,是大卫·鲍伊(David Bowie)的《英雄》(Heroes)奏起。

纽约时报中英文网 http://www.qqenglish.com/

  Many viewers and models shed tears. But this is not a funeral. It is not a retrospective. This is the classic Chanel, full of Lagerfeld's style: commoditization, drama style, full of creativity, sometimes delicate and clumsy, forward-looking and historical. Almost film-like scale. No doubt.

  许多观众和模特都流下了热泪。但这不是葬礼。它也不是回顾展。这是经典的香奈儿,充满拉格斐的风格:商品化、戏虐时尚风、充满创意、时而精致时而笨拙、具有前瞻性又有着历史渊源。几近电影般的尺度。没有疑虑。

  However, no one came out and bowed in spite of the standing ovation.

  但是,尽管全场起立鼓掌,却已无人出来鞠躬谢幕。

  Nothing has changed-Chanel insists that nothing changes; the team and Viade (who got the parallel signing rights with Lagerfeld in this series of notes) will work as always-but some things have changed. On each chair is a small bag (there will always be a small bag), which contains a variety of photos of the series, as well as a replica of Lagerfeld's sketches, with him and Coco Chanel ( Coco Chanel) walking side by side. He was wearing black sunglasses, a pigtail, and a white collar. She was wearing a hat decorated with camellia and carrying a quilted bag. There was a line of scribbled writing on top of their heads: "It doesn't stop."

  一切都没有改变——香奈儿坚持一切都不改变;团队和维亚德(在这个系列的说明中,她与拉格斐获得了并列署名权)将一如既往地工作——但有些东西确实变了。每张椅子上都放着一个小包(总会有一个小包),里面有各种各样的该系列造型照片,还有一幅拉格斐创作的素描的复制品,上面是他和可可·香奈儿(Coco Chanel)并肩散步。他戴着黑色墨镜,扎着马尾辫,衣领雪白笔挺。她戴着一顶装饰着山茶花的帽子,提着一个绗缝包。他们头顶上有一行潦草的字迹:“节拍不止。”

  I just inevitably changed the tone.

  只是不可避免地换了调子。

  How difficult it is for any brand that has lost its leader (not the designer to resign or decide to sell), but remains the same in operation, in the absence of the person who has been defining it for many years . However, Chanel's plan has precedents and good results.

  对于任何失去了领军人物(不是设计师主动辞职或决定出售),却又在运行上保持原状的品牌来说,在多年来一直在定义它的那个人不在的情况下,保持自己的方向何其困难。然而,香奈儿的计划是有先例的,而且有好的结果。

  After the accidental death of Azzedine Ala?a in November 2017, the company did not choose any designer to replace him (people are generally considered irreplaceable), but instead developed his archives and sketches, allowing The brand continues to grow in accordance with his image and vision.

  阿瑟丁·阿拉亚(Azzedine Ala?a)于2017年11月意外去世后,公司没有选择任何设计师替代他(人们普遍认为他是不可替代的),而是开发他的档案和草图,让这个品牌按照他的形象和愿景继续发展下去。

  After three seasons, the brand adopts an approach that not only adopts the past fabrics and forms, but also keeps them moving forward: the butterfly print created by Araya in 1991 (he likes to work late at night and then watch the National Geographic channel program) came A thin, long lace dress; a double-breasted fleece from 1986 with a large collar and twisted pleats on the waist, almost like a cardigan with a tightened back, Still resolutely combining rigor and sensuality; on his classic wide funnel-neck knitted dress, the python print and floral-shaped ensemble seamlessly blend together. A sweatshirt covered with blue and purple hand-beaded swirls, just like the Northern Lights, inspired by the patterns on previous leather jackets, is still very popular today. Or will continue to be popular.

纽约时报中英文网 http://www.qqenglish.com

  三季之后,品牌采用这样一种做法,既采纳过去的面料与形式,又让它们不断前进:阿拉亚于1991年创造的蝴蝶印花(他喜欢工作到深夜,然后看国家地理频道的节目)来到一条轻薄的蕾丝长礼服上;一件1986年的双排扣羊毛呢骑马装有了宽大的领子,腰部加上了扭曲的褶裥,几乎像一件后部收紧的开襟羊毛衫,依然坚决地将严谨与性感结合在一起;在他经典的宽漏斗领针织连衣裙上,蟒蛇印花与花卉造型天衣无缝地融合在一起。一件运动衫上覆盖着蓝色和紫色的手工串珠漩涡,就像北极光一样,灵感来自以前皮夹克上的图案,现在仍然十分流行。或者会一直流行下去。

  Also Alexander McQueen. The founder of the brand committed suicide in 2010. Like Chanel, the brand's long-standing No. 2 person has also been appointed as its head. Nearly 10 years later, Sarah Burton slowly and subtly transformed the brand into her own, pushing it forward without ever denying or losing contact with the founder. Instead, she polished its edges and corners and illuminated its darkness, adding some wild romance.

  还有亚历山大·麦昆(Alexander McQueen)。品牌创始人于2010年自杀身亡,与香奈儿一样,品牌长期以来的二号人物也被任命为它的掌门人。近10年后,莎拉·伯顿(Sarah Burton)慢慢地、巧妙地把这个品牌打造成她自己的,在从未否认或失去与创始人联系的情况下,推动了它的发展。相反,她打磨它的棱角,照亮它的黑暗,加入了一些野性的浪漫。

  With good intentions, I use it to express my views on the world.

  带着善意,用它来发表对这个世界的观点。

  This season, she did it with special skills. She worked with a factory in a community in northern England where she was a child (the audience sits on huge rolls of fabric customized for this occasion, they are surprisingly comfortable; all producer names are included in the press conference description)-once the UK leaves The kind of business that the European Union could be threatened with-she extolls their professions, presents them in a remarkable form, shows how important these traditions and talents are, and how much they would cost if they were left alone.

  这一季,她以特别的技巧做到了这一点。她与童年所在的英格兰北部社区中的工厂合作(观众坐在为这个场合定制的巨大织物卷上,它们惊人地舒适;所有生产者的名字都被收入发布会说明里)——就是一旦英国离开欧盟可能会受到威胁的那种企业——她歌颂他们的职业,以卓越的形式展示它们,表明这些传统和才干有多么重要,如果对它们坐视不理,将会带来多大损失。

  方形 Square (but not exaggerated) meticulous grey jacket with shoulders shows that power can be conveyed through tailoring, rather than through shoulder pads, whose sides hang down like a waterfall to the knees, and are embellished with woven edges written "Made in England. The Bronte novel's heroine-style tea party skirt is made of Duchess satin, with a fuzzy watercolor rose print on it, and the waist is buckled with a double-studded belt. Leather and satin are rotated into roses on the waist and upper arms-York's white roses, Lancaster's red roses.

  肩部呈方形(但不夸张)的细致灰色夹克表明,可以通过剪裁来传达力量,而不是通过垫肩,它的侧面像瀑布一样垂到膝盖,装饰着写有“英格兰制造”的织边。勃朗特小说女主角式的茶会裙用公爵夫人缎制成,上面是模糊的水彩玫瑰印花,腰部用双包钉皮带扣住。皮料和缎子在腰部和上臂上被旋转成玫瑰——约克的白玫瑰,兰开斯特的红玫瑰。

  A tights is made of woven straps with silver tailor buttons. Lace silhouettes a variety of wild animals: owls and cormorants, seagulls and worker bees. The industrial machine with a metallic sheen turned into a tulle dress with tiny silver chains and treasures shining on it. Every choice makes sense.

  一件紧身衣由缀有银色裁缝扣的编织带制成。蕾丝映衬着各种各样的野生动物:猫头鹰和鸬鹚、海鸥与工蜂。带着金属光泽的工业机器变成了一件薄纱连衣裙,上面有细小的银链和珍宝在闪烁。每一个选择都有意义。

  This is a hymn to Britain (that can be worn on the body), a UK full of thoughts and myths, a UK that might have been, or a UK that might never have.

  这是对英国的一曲(可以穿在身上的)赞歌,一个充满思想与神话的英国,一个也许本可以有的英国,或一个也许永远不会有的英国。

  This is acknowledging that in this case, as in all cases, we must look forward to the day when the future is ripe and wait and see what will happen next.

  这是在承认,在这种情况下,就像在所有情况下一样,我们必须期待未来时机成熟的那天,观望接下来将会发生什么事情。

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