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去东京,找一条“正宗”牛仔裤

  Tokyo -- the best souvenirs tell stories. Japanese jeans are a living history lesson.

  东京——最好的纪念品都会讲故事。日本牛仔裤就给我们上了一堂活生生的历史课。

  According to cultural historian, "the wind and soul: American fashion retained in the Japanese (Ametora: How Japan Saved American Style) author w. David Max (w. David Marx), reeves (Levi 's) landfall in Japan about 75 years ago, since then, the Japanese manufacturers will aizen hundreds of years tradition and their love of Levi's 501 Style unifies, has made the world's finest high tannin and classic jeans.

  据文化历史学家、《洋风和魂:日本的美国风尚留存》(Ametora: How Japan Saved American Style)一书的作者W·大卫·马克斯(W. David Marx)介绍,李维斯(Levi’s)大约75年前登陆日本,从那时起,日本制造商就将几百年的蓝染传统与他们对李维斯501风格的喜爱相结合,做出了世界上最精致的高档丹宁和经典牛仔裤。

  We met for coffee in Tokyo to discuss why Japanese jeans are so appealing to tourists who like to shop.

  我们在东京相约喝咖啡,讨论日本牛仔裤为什么对喜欢购物的游客有如此吸引力。

  Any stretch denim, too thin, too much leg, too wide, after five years will look ridiculous, but all 501 straight version of the classic jeans, after 20 years will be like now looks great, because they are the classic prototype of jeans, he said, "changes in the design, the art is changing, but will always be good. Really good fabrics"

  “弹力牛仔,任何太瘦、太多收腿、太宽的,五年后看起来都会很可笑,但所有经典的501直筒版型牛仔裤,二十年后看起来都会和现在一样棒,因为它们是牛仔裤的经典原型,”他说,“设计在变,艺术在变,但真正好的面料永远都是好的。”

  The Japanese love affair with cowboys, especially blue ones, dates back to world war ii, Mr. Marks said. During the postwar American occupation of Japan, used jeans (mostly Levi's) entered stores by bartering with American soldiers. Back then, americans devalued jeans, tearing them into rags and stuffing them into packages like paper towels. But Japanese consumers value them so much that stores sew them back together for sale.

  马克斯说,日本人对牛仔——尤其是蓝色牛仔——的喜爱始于二战。战后美军占领日本期间,二手牛仔裤(大多是李维斯牌)通过与美国士兵的以物易物进入了商店。那时候,美国人把牛仔裤贬得一文不值,会把它们当成纸巾一样撕成碎布塞进包裹里。但日本消费者却非常看重它们,以至于商店会将这些残片重新缝在一起出售。

  Over the next few decades, Japan moved from embracing the blue cowboy to perfecting it.

  在接下来几十年时间里,日本从拥抱蓝色牛仔风转向了去完善它。

  With any luck, she found herself one day time, also some money in hand, can be in the capital, shopping, you can in the streets, shops, and generation of officer mountain bakery, find a focus the whole Japan's best high tannin, here the distance than the life of a short way from the central station, is often referred to as "brooklyn" in Tokyo.

  如果运气好,发现自己有一天的时间,手头也有些钱,可以在这座首都购物,你可以在代官山的街巷、商铺和面包房之间,找到一处集中了全日本最好的高档丹宁的地方,这里距离惠比寿中央车站只有一小段路,常被称为“东京的布鲁克林”。

  Daiguan hill has all the cool shops in brooklyn, but it doesn't have the rage of brooklyn, Mr. Marks said. "everything is refined, polished and peaceful."

  “代官山拥有布鲁克林种种别致店铺,却没有布鲁克林的戾气,”马克斯说,“所有东西都很精致、工巧与平和。”

  To start the day, head to daikanyama's daikanyama bookstore for a quick denim education. In the fashion section, in addition to Mr. Marks's book, you'll find "a history of old western jeans" by Michael Harris and a book by Aota Mitsuhiro, translated as "who made the 501XX?

  作为一天行程的开始,你可以先去代官山的时尚书屋茑屋书店,接受一场丹宁知识速成教育。在时尚专区,除了马克斯的书,你还会找到迈克尔·哈里斯(Michael Harris)的《老西部牛仔裤史》以及青田充弘(Aota Mitsuhiro)的一本书,书名翻译过来是《谁创造了501XX?未曾讲述的李维斯历史》。

  Over coffee at the Anjin Library & Lounge, next door to the bookstore, and through old photographs and illustrations, you begin to understand how the jeans you'll be trying on came about. You'll also begin to understand why, when you walk into a store, surrounded by denim jackets, flannel, leather tags and trucker hats, you feel as if you've stepped into an ancient marlboro AD in central Tokyo.

  去毗邻书店的安进图书馆酒廊(Anjin Library & Lounge)一边喝咖啡,一边翻阅书中的老照片和图解,你会开始了解你将要试穿的牛仔裤是怎么来的。你也会开始明白,为什么当你走进一家商店,被牛仔夹克、法兰绒、皮牌和卡车司机帽包围,会觉得自己仿佛走进了一个位于东京市中心的古早万宝路广告。

纽约时报中英文网 www.qqenglish.com

  On a recent visit to the UES store in daikanyama, it would have felt like Nebraska had it not been for Asami Makino, kneeling down to measure his pants and chatting in Japanese to a first-time shopper. "Whole Lotta Love" by Led Zeppelin played in the background as she sat down at the half-century old Union Special sewing machine.

  最近我去了代官山的UES店,如果不是看到牧野麻美(Asami Makino)正在跪着量裤脚,还用日语跟一位首次购买他们品牌的顾客聊天,这里感觉跟内布拉斯加州没两样。当她在有半世纪历史的美国Union Special缝纫机前坐下时,背景响起齐柏林飞艇(Led Zeppelin)的《许多爱》(Whole Lotta Love)。

  Levi started it all, and there's no doubt we got a lot of inspiration from Levi, she said. "but we don't go with the flow, we try to come up with our own ideas."

  “李维斯开创了这一切,毫无疑问,我们从李维斯那里得到了很多灵感,”她说,“但我们不会跟着别人走,而是试着拿出自己的创意。”

  Instead of ironing the crease, she tapped it with a wooden mallet. In the end, she took out a branding machine and stamped the purchase date on the leather. If you can afford a pair of these pants for 23,800 yen ($218), this detail makes them a perfect souvenir.

  将边缘折叠形成裤脚时,她并没有熨烫折痕,而是用一个木柄槌轻敲它。到最后,她拿出一个烙印机,在皮牌上烙出购买日期。如果你能花得起2.38万日元(约合218美元)买一条这样的裤子,这个细节可以让它成为绝佳的纪念品。

  Take the post-world war ii jeans off the shelf as if they were folded against cardboard. Not really. This stiffness is due to the use of "original cow" fabric. Mr. Makino said the starched jeans had not been pre-washed because the best way to achieve the desired high-contrast fading effect was to wash them only once, and then wear them for at least six months.

  把二战后版型牛仔裤从架上取下来,就好像是里面衬着纸板折叠起来的。其实没有。这种硬挺是因为使用了“原牛”面料。牧野说,这些上浆牛仔裤没有经过预洗,因为要达到理想的高对比度褪色效果,最好的办法就是只洗一次,然而就这样一直穿着,至少六个月不能洗。

  It's uncomfortable at first because the material is really hard. And it feels tight around the waist when you buy it, about an inch, Mr. Makino said. "But if you can stand it for a while, it will fit you perfectly and you can wear it every day."

  “一开始会不舒服,因为面料真的很硬。而且刚买完的时候穿会感觉腰部比较紧,大约有一英寸,”牧野说。“但如果你能忍受一段时间,它们会变得非常合身,你可以每天都穿。”

  Japanese tannins, worth the sacrifice, began to develop in the 1970s, when strikes by American workers halted textile imports, according to marks. To make truly indigenous cowboys, Japanese manufacturers have had to forget many of the lessons they learned in the millennium aizen tradition. If the colour penetrates the cloth, it will not fade. They had to dye the strands lighter to keep the center white so that the white would come out over time.

  据马克斯介绍,这种值得做出如此大牺牲的日本丹宁,是在1970年代开始发展起来的,当时美国工人的罢工中断了纺织品进口。为了制造真正属于本土的牛仔,日本制造商不得不忘掉他们在千年蓝染传统中学到的许多东西。如果颜色渗透布料,就不会褪色了。他们不得不将线股染得更浅,保持其中心是白色,这样随着时间的推移,白色才会显露出来。

纽约时报中英文网 www.qqenglish.com

  Hidehiko Yamane, the store manager, wrote in his book 'Tateoti: Evisu the photobook' that he wanted to make jeans' like the ones I bought at the surplus store when I was in high school. ' He created a brand called Evis, a play on the word Levi's, and painted a seagull logo on the back of his pants that looked like Levi's stitches. Evis eventually became Evisu.

  古着店经理山根英彦(Hidehiko Yamane)在他的《Tateoti:Evisu摄影集》(Tateoti: Evisu the photobook)一书中写道,他想做出“像我上中学时在剩余物资商店买到的一样”的牛仔裤。他创立了一个名为Evis的品牌,是对Levi’s这个词的演绎,还会在裤子背面画上海鸥形状的品牌标识,看上去和李维斯的针脚形状很像。Evis最终演变成了Evisu。

  At Evisu the Tokyo store in daikanyama, I found Saito Yasushi, a shop assistant, among a pile of cowboy-coated motorcycle helmets, a lovely collection of denim knapsacks and golf accessories. He was bending over a pair of jeans, his hands dyed indigo, and he had painted the back of them with a giant seagull pattern, which no one would mistake for Levi's.

  在位于代官山的Evisu东京(Evisu the Tokyo)店里,我在一堆牛仔涂层的摩托车头盔、一组可爱的丹宁布腰包和高尔夫配件中找到了店员斋藤安石(Saito Yasushi)。他正俯身面对一条牛仔裤,双手染上了靛蓝,在裤子背面画上点点旋旋的巨大海鸥图案,由此就成了一条没人会错认成李维斯的裤子。

  Evisu is the brand that really broke the denim reproduction, says marks. David Beckham wore it. Jay-z mentioned it in the song. "But there was a backlash from his staff, who said, 'no, we have to make the perfect 501 copy. '"

  “Evisu是真正打破了复刻牛仔的品牌,”马克斯说。大卫·贝克汉姆(David Beckham)穿过,Jay-Z在歌里提到过。“但当时这可引起了他手下员工的强烈反对,他们觉得,‘不行,我们必须做出最完美的501复刻。’”

  Different brands also have varying degrees of commitment to strict tradition, from copper rivets to chain seams to classic cuts to rimmed denim, suggesting that these fabrics are made on small batch looms.

  不同品牌对严格的传统也有不同程度的执着,从铜铆钉到链式缝边到经典剪裁再到镶边牛仔,都表明这些布料是在小批量织布机上生产的。

  It's very Confucian, Mr. Marks said. "there's a perfect pair of iconic jeans, the Levi's 501 from the '30s to' 60s, which was supposed to be the perfection of the past, but we lost it. This idea is different from the progressive western idea that you can always make better jeans. It's like a race to see who can do better with what they've lost."

  “这种思想其实很儒家,”马克斯说,“有一条完美的标志性牛仔裤,那就是30到60年代的李维斯501,它被认为是属于过去的完美,但我们失去了它。这种观念跟西方的进步观念不同,西方人觉得你总能做出更好的牛仔裤。这就好像是一场看谁能把失去的东西做得更好的比赛一样。”

  At UES and Evisu, head to Gohanya Isshin's restaurant in daikanyama for a sashimi and tempura lunch. It would be a huge mistake not to eat the pumpkin creme brulee. After you've had your fill, you can stop by the quiet garden of the former asakura mansion, a traditional early 20th-century Japanese house, before heading off to the next stop.

  在UES和Evisu结好帐,你可以前往代官山Gohanya Isshin餐厅,尝尝生鱼片和天妇罗的午餐。不吃这里的南瓜焦糖布丁将是一个巨大的错误。吃饱之后,你可以在动身前往下一站之前,去趟前浅仓公馆的安静花园坐坐,那是一幢20世纪初的日本传统住宅。

  Heading east, through ebissau, you can shop for Warehouse & Co. The brand's founder used to work at Evisu but now focuses on "faithful replicas of vintage clothing". Their jeans can satisfy purists.

  往东走,穿过惠比寿,你可以逛一逛Warehouse & Co.的店。该品牌的创始人曾在Evisu工作,但现在专注于“复古服饰的忠实复刻品”。他们的牛仔裤可以满足纯粹主义者。

  We are uncompromising in reproducing those vintage jeans, Masaki Fujiki, a sales and communications manager for Warehouse & Co., said in an email. He says the brand, which is celebrating its 25th anniversary, has never changed its manufacturing process, from yarn to how to spin to aizen.

  “我们毫不妥协地复刻那些复古牛仔裤,”Warehouse & Co.的销售和公关经理藤木正树(Masaki Fujiki)在电邮中表示。他说,从纱线到如何纺线再到蓝染,这个即将迎来25周年纪念的品牌从未改变生产工艺。

  Warehouse & Co. 's Duckdigger collection is based on work clothes found in a ghost town in the U.S. west in the 19th century, Mr. Fujimi said. Their jeans, suspenders and jumpsuits cost between $200 and $300, and they sell their own denim wash brand.

  藤木介绍说,Warehouse & Co.的“Duckdigger”系列是根据19世纪在美国西部一座鬼城中被发现的工作服设计的。他们的牛仔裤、背带裤和连体服的价格在200到300美元之间,还会销售自己的牛仔水洗品牌。

  Their clothing labels say, "beware of imitations." "Authentic" is a word that often appears on Warehouse's website and catalogues.

  他们的服装标签上写着“当心仿制品”。而在Warehouse的网站及商品目录中,“正宗”是经常出现的词。

  So, how do you make authentic jeans? "Max asked." if you can make authentic jeans the way they used to be, then you have a claim to authenticity. That's what Japan does."

  “那么,怎样才能做出正宗的牛仔裤?”马克斯问,“如果你能按照过去的方式制作正宗的牛仔裤,那你就有资格说自己正宗。日本就是这么做的。”

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