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2020年度的色彩:抚平焦虑的经典蓝

  潘通的人知道,如今日子并不好过。

是蓝色。

  The people of pantone know that times are tough.

  “我们中的许多人,”这家权威色彩公司在最近一次展示中提及焦虑情绪,“完全超负荷,总是有压力。”那么潘通色卡的心理学家们认为解决办法是什么?是蓝色。具体来说:经典蓝色。

  Many of us, the authority color company said of anxiety in a recent presentation, "are completely overloaded and always stressed." So what do the pantone psychologists think is the solution? Is blue. Specifically: classic blue.

  潘通已经连续第21年宣布年度色彩,这个潮流预测的噱头受到了新闻媒体和营销、时尚、设计等视觉潮流行业的密切关注。

  For the 21st year in a row, pantone has announced its color of the year, a trend-forecasting gimmick that has been closely watched by the news media and visual trends industries like marketing, fashion and design.

  作为2020年度色彩的蓝并非蔚蓝(该公司在2000年的首次选择)、水色天空(2003年)、蓝色绿松石(2005年)、蓝色鸢尾花(2008年),也不是宁静蓝(在2016年和蔷薇石英粉一起当选)。它就是经典蓝,比它的蓝色系同胞们更深、也更为人们所熟悉。

  Blue as the color of the year for 2020 is not azure (the company's first choice in 2000), water sky (2003), blue turquoise (2005), blue iris (2008), or serenity blue (along with rose quartz in 2016). It is classic blue, deeper and more familiar than its blue Cousins.

  经典蓝是蓝莓、百事可乐易拉罐和天空“在一天结束时的美丽颜色”,潘通色彩研究所(Pantone color Institute)的执行董事莱亚特丽斯·艾斯曼(Leatrice Eiseman)说,该机构研究并为企业提供有关人类对颜色反应的建议。在选择经典蓝时,该机构表示他们先研究了世界上正在发生的事情。

  Classic blue is a "beautiful color at the end of the day" for blueberries, Pepsi cans and the sky, said Leatrice Eiseman, executive director of the Pantone color Institute, which researches and advises companies on how humans react to color. In choosing classic blue, the agency says it first studied what was happening in the world.

  “我们生活的这个时代,世界各地的情况似乎有一点……我不想用‘动荡’来形容,但还是可以说有一点不稳定,”潘通色彩研究所副所长劳里·普莱斯曼(Laurie Pressman)说。“从这一刻到下一刻,没什么事情是绝对确定的。”

  We live in an era where there seems to be a little bit of... I don't want to call it 'turbulent,' but it's a little unstable, said Laurie Pressman, deputy director of the pantone color institute. "Nothing is absolutely certain from one moment to the next."

  潘通没有太过具体地解释为什么人们会觉得“不稳定”。政治上的动荡或许是这些震动的明显原因,但普莱斯曼表示,“我们并不认为这是一则政治信息。”潘通的决定与弹劾案、大选或英国脱欧都无关,也不是对蓝色民主党的暗暗支持。

纽约时报中英文网 http://www.qqenglish.com/

  Pantone isn't too specific about why people feel "unstable." Political turmoil may be the obvious cause of these tremors, but pressman said, "we don't see it as a political message." Pantone's decision had nothing to do with impeachment, the election or brexit, nor was it an implicit endorsement of the blue Democrats.

  相反,潘通把全世界的焦虑和压力归咎于一个更普遍的敌人:科技。

  Instead, pantone blames a more general enemy for the world's anxiety and stress: technology.

  “它加速了事态的变化,我们简直已经无法承受所有涌进来的东西,”艾斯曼说。

  It speeds things up, and we just can't handle all the stuff coming in, eiseman said.

  经典蓝色“提供了一个庇护所”,潘通表示,它可以满足人们对“可靠、稳定基础的渴望”。经典蓝代表着“没有攻击性”、“容易引发共鸣”,和“诚实”。

  Classic blue "provides a refuge," pantone says, to satisfy people's "desire for a solid, stable foundation." Classic blue stands for "not aggressive," "easy to resonate," and "honest."

  经典蓝并不代表着悲伤。艾斯曼说,尽管几个世纪以来,艺术家和作家都用蓝色代表忧郁,但如今年轻人不会再把蓝色与悲伤联系起来。“我想那是老一辈人的想法了。”

  Classic blue doesn't mean sad. Although blue has been associated with melancholy by artists and writers for centuries, young people no longer associate it with sadness, eiseman said. "I think that's what the older generation thinks."

  这是潘通第一次在通告中附带多感官彩蛋。他们还准备发布以经典蓝为灵感的音乐——一首名叫《生动怀旧》(Vivid Nostalgia)的电子流行歌曲——同时还有一款浆果茶和柔软面料。(这首歌是免费的;浆果茶可供购买;使用该面料制作的定制家具可以预订。)一些网红和记者也收到了蜡烛和果酱。

  This is the first time pantone has included a multi-sensory egg in its announcement. They are also releasing music inspired by classic blues -- an electronic pop song called "Vivid Nostalgia" -- as well as a berry tea and soft fabric. (the song is free; Berry tea is available for purchase; Bespoke furniture made from the fabric can be ordered. Some web celebrity and journalists also received candles and jam.

纽约时报中英文网 www.qqenglish.com

  潘通一年一度的宣传造势本已很强大,如今更是升了级。每年12月,他们的通告都会引来全国媒体和商业出版物广为报道(其中也包括反对的声音)。

  Pantone's annual campaign, already strong, has been upgraded. Each December, their announcement is widely reported (including in opposition) in national media and trade publications.

  利兹大学(University of Leeds)历史学教授、《色彩革命》(The Color Revolution)一书的作者雷吉娜·李·布拉什奇克(Regina Lee Blaszczyk)表示,外界的关注帮助潘通成为色彩预测领域——这一职业可追溯到20世纪初——最具影响力的机构之一。

  Regina Lee Blaszczyk, a professor of history at The University of Leeds and author of "The Color Revolution," says The attention has helped make pantone one of The most influential institutions in Color forecasting, a profession that dates back to The early 20th century.

  “年度色彩其实是潘通吸引媒体关注的一种营销手段,”她说。“潘通做得很出色的一点,是他们找到了利用名人文化的办法。本质上讲,年度色彩就是让一种颜色成为名人。”

  Color of the year is really a marketing device for pantone to get media attention, she said. "One of the things that pantone has done very well is that they have found a way to leverage celebrity culture. "Color of the year is essentially making a color a celebrity."

  布拉什奇克说,潘通希望激起人们对潘通品牌的兴奋之情,有截稿日压力的记者们则欣然配合。“他们需要可以写的、有点令人兴奋的东西。名人可是非常令人兴奋的。”

  Mr. Blashchik said pantone wanted to stir up excitement about the pantone brand, and reporters under deadline pressure were willing to cooperate. "They need something to write about that's a little exciting. Celebrities are very exciting."

  尽管如此,潘通预测的准确度仍具有信誉。

  Still, pantone has a reputation for accuracy.

  奢侈品电子商务平台Moda Operandi分析并定期发布消费者行为数据。(这些数据基于其内部展卖会的购买情况,或是直接在T台上销售的设计师系列产品。)

  Luxury e-commerce platform Moda Operandi analyzes and regularly publishes consumer behavior data. (the data are based on purchases at its in-house trade shows or on designer collections sold directly on the runway.)

  潘通预测2018年的流行色为紫外光色。从2017年到2018年,Moda Operandi称他们的紫色商品订单增长了28%。去年,潘通选择了珊瑚橙作为流行色。而从2018年到2019年,Moda Operandi的粉色商品销售量增长了62%。

  Pantone predicts the color of 2018 will be ultraviolet. From 2017 to 2018, Moda Operandi reported a 28 percent increase in purple merchandise orders. Last year, pantone chose coral orange. From 2018 to 2019, sales of Moda Operandi's pink merchandise grew 62 percent.

  不过,布拉什奇克并不相信视觉行业之外的人会关心潘通的年度通告。

  But Mr Brashchik does not believe anyone outside the visual industry CARES about pantone's annual announcement.

  “对服装和时尚感兴趣的人会关注,但我认为普通人不会关注它,”她说。

  People who are interested in clothes and fashion pay attention, but I don't think ordinary people pay attention to it, she said.

  话虽如此,布拉什奇克还是注意到,在她的慧俪轻体(Weight Watchers)Facebook群组里,有人会根据潘通选出的颜色组织各种挑战和活动。例如,“让我们这周都穿潘通粉吧!”她说。

  Still, Ms. Blashchik has noticed that on her Weight Watchers Facebook group, there are people who organize challenges and events based on the colors chosen by pantone. For example, "let's all wear pantone this week!" She said.

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