The Rules of Men's Jewelry
It has been said a man needs no more ornaments than a watch and wedding ring. Perhaps that's because the idea of men wearing jewelry can evoke images of gold chains framed by a barely buttoned shirt. But there are many degrees of decoration between a strict limit of watch and wedding ring -- with the occasional cuff links, of course -- and the stuff of 'Saturday Night Fever.'
A few old-school accent pieces have started to make their way back into the gentleman's wardrobe -- the signet ring, the tie clip and the lapel pin -- thanks, in part, to the influence that the '50s have been wielding on menswear runways.
But how to wear all this hardware? 'There are a million ways to get it wrong and only a few to get it right,' said Tyler Thoreson, vice president of men's editorial and creative at Gilt Groupe. 'That's part of the fun -- it's a little tricky, and more rewarding to pull off in a sophisticated way.'
As a general rule, it's wise to err on the side of understatement. Employing a tie clip? Skip the lapel pin. Considering multiple rings? Leave that look to the likes of Johnny Depp.
With bracelets, too, less can be more. Let the Zoolanders flaunt coils of rope and leather that creep up their forearms. For laymen, one does the trick. Robert Bryan, author of the book 'American Fashion Menswear,' is a proponent of the classic chain link ID bracelet. With men's jewelry, generally, 'silver is the safer choice,' said Mr. Bryan, who also advised caution when it comes to decorative stones. 'They should be small and discreet, lest you be known as the Diamond Jim Brady of the office.'
It also helps to wear pieces that have a significance beyond sheer aesthetics -- jewelry that has a history or was received as a gift. 'I think for men, the key is that it have meaning,' said Lisa Salzer, who designs women's jewelry for her own label, Lulu Frost, and recently spun off a men's line called George Frost. Tom Kalenderian, executive vice president of menswear at Barneys New York, noted that bracelets are often bought as gifts since, unlike rings, they usually don't need to be sized.
Casual wrist-wear -- beads and bracelets made of worn leather and nautical-style rope, like those popularized by American brand Miansai -- suggests a life of adventure, imagined or not. However, more sophisticated pieces can carry a compelling back story, too. Jewelry designer Monique Pean, who recently launched a men's line, uses materials with notable past lives. Ms. Pean's tie clip is made of 18-karat recycled white gold, and ivory from a wooly mammoth sourced from the Arctic Circle, as well as onyx. 'Men gravitate toward fossils,' she noted.
Her distinctive clip brings a layer of intrigue to what can otherwise be a pragmatic accent. (The tie clip -- also known as tie bar or tie clasp -- does serve a function, unlike other pieces of jewelry: It keeps your tie straight, out of your face on a windy day and off of your plate.)
The clip should be narrower than the tie on which it's worn, said Mr. Thoreson. The correct placement is between the third and fourth shirt buttons. It should also be perfectly horizontal, though Mr. Bryan suggested that daring men might try the downward-tilted 'rakish angle' that flourished in the 1930s.
Hogan Gidley, a Republican consultant based in Columbia, S.C., and Washington, D.C., wears a sterling-silver tie clip from Tiffany's that's engraved with his initials. 'I might be an outlier in the party for wearing a tie clip, but I have seen more Republican pundits on TV starting to dabble in [them],' he said.
Known in political circles for being a dapper dresser, Mr. Gidley also sports a signet ring; it's engraved with a family crest that, he said, dates back hundreds of years. Signet rings are more prevalent in the South, he noted, and can also bear the crest or seal of the wearer's alma mater.
The signet ring is an age-old emblem of aristocratic belonging, yet designer brands are reworking the look, if not also the underlying message, into fashion accessories. See: Eddie Borgo (inlaid rubber), Bottega Veneta (a crosshatch motif that mimics the brand's signature woven leather) and Ms. Pean (fossilized walrus ivory). One savvy tactic is to wear the ring up against a wedding band, thereby confining digital decoration to a single finger.
Another badge that has become more of a style statement is the lapel pin. In the form of an American flag, it is de rigueur among politicians. But luxury labels have embraced pins as well. Several years ago, Italian brand Isaia created a mini-craze for the coral-shaped lapel pins that come with its jackets. And fashion houses that once tacked lapel pins onto suits as a bit of runway-only styling are now selling the accessories in stores. This spring, Louis Vuitton is offering pins shaped like pretzels and marijuana roach clips while Saint Laurent is selling one that looks like a surfer shooting the curl.
Lapel pins can add a hint of personality in more buttoned-up work environments. 'A lot of guys in my line of work don't want to draw attention to themselves. They'd rather just wear the uniform,' said Chris Schumacher, a 37-year-old Manhattan financier. He wasn't speaking for himself -- he's partial to nautical rope bracelets, and wears an enamel fox-hunting pin on his overcoat. He added, 'It's nice to see people getting away from just the watch and ring.'
有人说，除了手表和婚戒，男人什么装饰品都不需要。也许这是因为提到男人戴首饰，就会让人想到几乎不扣扣子的衬衫搭配金链子的画面。但在手表和婚戒的严格限制——当然偶尔还会有袖扣——和《周末夜狂热》(Saturday Night Fever)的那种肆无忌惮之间，还是有很多不同程度的配饰选择的。
但是这些东西该如何佩戴？Gilt Groupe负责男装编辑和设计的副总裁泰勒·托雷森(Tyler Thoreson)说：“会有无数种方式搭配错，搭配正确只有几种方式。这就是乐趣所在——要搭配出精致品味有点难，但是做到以后又很有成就感。”
一般来说，保守一点是比较明智的。想用领带夹？那就不要领针了。想戴好几枚戒指？还是把这种装扮留给强尼·戴普(Johnny Depp)那种人吧。<纽约时报中英文网 http://www.qqenglish.com/>
手镯也是一样，宁少勿多。让超级名模祖兰德(Zoolander)们手臂上缠着一卷卷绳子和皮革招摇吧。对普通人来说，一件佩饰足够。《美国时尚男装》(American Fashion Menswear)一书作者罗伯特·布莱恩(Robert Bryan)是经典ID手链的推崇者。布莱恩说，对于男士首饰，一般来说“银饰是比较保险的选择”。他还提醒男士在佩戴石头首饰时因该注意：“应该小而低调，以免变成办公室里的 石吉姆·布拉迪(Diamond Jim Brady)。”
佩戴除了纯粹美感之外有特殊意义的首饰也不错——比如拥有一段历史的首饰或者别人馈赠的礼物。Lulu Frost创始人、该品牌女士珠宝设计师丽莎·萨尔泽(Lisa Salzer)说：“我觉得对男士来说，关键在于得有意义。”该品牌最近还推出了名为George Frost的男士品牌。纽约巴尼斯精品店(Barneys New York)男装执行副总裁汤姆·卡伦德里安(Tom Kalenderian)指出，人们通常会购买手链作为礼物，因为和戒指不同，手链的尺寸无所谓。
这枚图章戒指是一个属于贵族的古老徽章，不过各大设计师品牌把它改造成了时尚配饰，或许它所隐含的信息也被改变了。埃迪·波尔格(Eddie Borgo)（内嵌橡胶）、宝缇嘉(Bottega Veneta)（模仿该品牌标志性编织皮革的交叉阴影图案）、还有佩昂（化石海象象牙）都是很好的例子。一个精明的策略是和结婚戒指戴在一起，这样就可以把装饰限制在一根手指上。
另一种越来越像是时尚宣言的徽章是领针。美国国旗形式的领针已经成为政客们的社交礼仪必备品了。但奢侈品牌也将领针纳入了时尚界。几年前，意大利品牌Isaia外套上的珊瑚形领针掀起了一阵小小的热潮。曾经把领针作为时装秀造型和西装搭配的时装品牌现在开始在店里销售这些配饰了。今年春季，路易威登(Louis Vuitton)推出了形如椒盐脆饼(pretzels)和大麻香烟烟嘴的领针，而Saint Laurent推出了一款形似冲浪手踩着浪花的领针。